For nearly 20 years, we drove Interstate 75 through Cincinnati, OH, and Covington, KY, often commenting on the numerous church steeples in this historically German and Catholic area. But we needed the Roadtrippers travel app to discover St. Mary’s Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption. We made a special half-day stop to explore this religious and architectural wonder.
Individual construction projects were completed on the massive church, the it remains unfinished based on original plans. The two, 52-foot towers which would resemble Notre Dame of Paris have never been added.
Oddly, while living in Ohio, we made regular driving trips up and down I-75 to visit family. We often found ourselves time-pressed and family-stressed on those trips. Thus, making a stop just one hour after leaving home or when only one hour away from a return seemed senseless.
But after we moved to Florida, then Georgia, we had more time to explore stops along this road-now-less-traveled. Ending a leisurely combination business and vacation trip, we asked Roadtrippers for interesting stops on our route to Georgia. St. Mary’s popped up, just off the interstate in Covington, KY, and perfect for a late-morning visit.
Based on Two Famous European Cathedrals
St. Mary’s features classic Gothic architecture, with an interior based on St. Denis Basilica of Paris and a façade modeled after Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris. Planning for St. Mary’s began as early as 1855. Actual construction began in 1894 after construction plans and fundraising were sufficient for work to commence. Completion of the first phase occurred in 1901 and dedication of the church proceeded without the façade. Construction began again in 1908 on the exterior, featuring a 26-foot diameter rose stained glass window. Work ended on the exterior in 1910, but without the two 52-foot towers originally envisioned.
One of the largest handmade stained glass windows in the world, the 67 foot by 24 foot fixture is located in the North Transept. It depicts the Coronation of Mary after her Assumption.
Today, the Basilica features one of the largest handmade stained glass windows in the world, according to the Cathedral Legacy Society. The 67 foot by 24 foot fixture occupies the North Transept. It depicts the Coronation of Mary after her Assumption. Created in Munich, Germany, craftsmen installed the window in 1911. A full restoration was completed 2001, according to published church history.
Inside the Soaring Church
Entering the Basilica from the west below the rose window, one of the church’s three pipe organs towers above. Walking forward, The Baptistry is laid into the floor, with an upper carved from one piece of Chiampa Pearla marble.
Three organs fill the church with music. The Wicks pipe organ, located in the south transept (ca. 1930) was expanded in 1982 and 2001.
On our visit, one of the organists rehearsed overhead, filling the massive church with a mournful dirge, then lifting the pace and our spirits with a soaring hymn.
We walked up the main aisle, pausing to admire the stained glass windows and the massive arches above the huge columns that formed the nave. At the far side, the marble-tiled sanctuary rises from the main floor, featuring a carved wood pulpit and baldachin, plus a variety of marble. Above, the transept soars to 85 feet. Ahead, the marble altar sits before the rounded east apse, adorned by more stained glass. The wood-carved cathedra, or bishop’s chair, symbolizes the role of teacher and pastor of the church.
Walking up the main aisle, the classic components of Gothic architecture are everywhere.
Other notable religious and architectural features include:
Mosaic stations. Formed of tiny porcelain ceramic tiles and mother of pearl, the 14 stations portray Christ’s passion and death.
Stained glass windows. In addition to the large stained glass window in the North Transept, the church features 82 stained glass windows portraying the life of Christ and honoring apostles, saints and church figures.
Gargoyles and chimera. Along the ornate upper colonnade, 32 gargolyes help to divert rainwater away from the cathedral. Another 26 chimeras help to guard the church and community from evil spirits.
After roaming through the interior, we headed back outside to the courtyard, admiring the plantings, fountains, statuary and — of course — those gargoyles peeking at us from high above.
Our weekday visit lasted over two hours as we paused to reflect on the exquisite features. We easily could have spent more time exploring the vast interior and exterior surroundings. The church generally is open for visitation Monday-Friday, from 9 am to 3 pm, but may be closed without notice due to special liturgies.
After touring the interior, we walked through the courtyard and surrounding plaza, enjoying the fountains, statues and the playful gargoyles high above.
When most people think of travel in the Caribbean, the first images that pop into mind are rolling waves of turquoise water washing on to white sandy beaches, where palm trees sway in a gentle breeze — generally high above reddened humans consuming mass quantities of alcoholic beverages.
Or maybe it’s a cruise ship quietly sailing past a nearby island where small boats zip into and out of a small harbor surrounded by a colorful and quaint town.
Yes, the Caribbean vision perfected by Jimmy Buffet and expanded on by many others features Boats, Beaches, Bars and Ballads, and maybe even locating that lost shaker of salt. Regardless of your preference in island activities, there are plenty of salt water or just plain salty options available.
But sometimes, you just want to rinse off the sand and that salt crust and feel the rejuvenating power of cold fresh water. That’s a perfect time to leave the beaches and head inland, where the crowds are smaller, the water fresh, and we enjoyed three of our favorite fresh water adventures in the islands, including the grand-daddy of them all, Dunn’s River Falls near Ocho Rios.
Waterfalls of Damajagua, Dominican Republic
Located on the North Coast of the Dominican Republic near the city of Puerto Plata and the new-ish cruise port at Amber Cove, the Damajagua River wind its way out of the mountains. Hidden among the trees are 27 waterfalls, splashing into limestone pools perfect for jumping and swimming. Known locally as 27 Charcos, the area opened for tourists in the late 1990s and still retains lots tropical mountain charm.
Carving caverns and canyons into the surrounding limestone, the 27 Charcos are a newer attraction near Puerto Playa. Most tours only visit seven waterfalls, but you can book a visit to all of them if you have enough time.
Webooked an excursion from Amber Cover that included round-trip transportation, guided access to 7 of the waterfalls and an additional zip line adventure following. Arriving early, we were among the first guests of the day to start the 30-minute, 1-mile uphill hike. Beware that this is no easy walk in the woods, so be mindful of your limitations. And if you need a break, inform your guide.
Guides offer a few rest breaks on the one-mile, uphill hike to the entry point for the seventh waterfall. Wearing athletic shoes is advised, as the trail is rocky and water shoes aren’t the best choice for walking.
Two other tips: bring bug spray and wear athletic shoes. The stones on the trail are loose, lumpy and sharp, and water shoes or flip flops may not provide adequate protection or comfort.
After reaching the top, you literally jump or slide your way back down following the river as it carves deep pools below the series of small falls. After brief instructions, we crept to the edge of a large rock. Our 15-year-old decided he wasn’t going first, so I was the first to plunge approximately 16 feet into a narrow canyon where the river emerges from a cavern. Some falls offer the option of either jumping or sliding down rock chutes into the pools below. For the timid, some of the larger falls also feature stairs for descending rather than the watery options.
Some of the falls offer an option of jumping, sliding, or both if you want to climb back up the stairs for a second try.
If you have more time and an adventurous spirit, opt for a 12-falls adventure or all 27 falls. The upper falls are far less-visited and less-crowded, and the tour guides tend to travel at a more relaxed pace. You can learn more about those options at the 27 Carco website.
Our 15-year old didn’t want to go first at the entry point, so I took the initial plunge. We maintained that order throughout the morning. Life jackets and helmets are provided as part of the tour.
White River Tubing, Jamaica
Growing up in Louisiana and now living in Georgia, we’re no strangers to river tubing. And honestly, on our Jamaica trip, we weren’t looking for a tubing adventure, but one found us anyway.
Floating the cool waters of the gently-moving White River is a no-frills way to escape the tourist crowds for a few hours. There’s an option to stop midway for drinks and diving, but our group chose river time.
That’s how we ended up on the banks of the gently-moving White River, a winding and bouncing journey of a few miles away from Ocho Rios. Reflecting the character of the area, this is a no-frills but good-chill way to spend a few hours away from the tourist crowds.
Upon arrival, we said goodbye to our driver, who promised with a huge smile to meet us downstream. Then, we grabbed a tube and life preserver and headed to the river with another independent group that had arrived from a Carnival cruise. As it turns out, they were fellow Georgians, and also no strangers to river tubing.
There are only two rules to successful tubing: push away if you get too close to the bank or a river snag, and hold on to any beverage which may be in your possession.
There really are only two things that require your attention on a smooth-water tubing trip: pushing away if you get too close to the bank and holding on to any beverage that may be in your possession. Otherwise, fellow Parrotheads, channel your inner fruitcake: put on some Bob Marley, and practice what you preach. Get Ja lost in the reggae mon, and forget about the beach.
Around the midway point on this trip, the willing can choose a stop, where rum drinks are available and you can jump off a 20-foot cliff into the water below. We chose to float on by, as climbing to that jumping perch sounded like work.
Dunn’s River Falls, Ocho Rios, Jamaica
Crowds at Dunn’s River Falls peak between 11 am and 2 pm, especially when cruise ships are in port. But no matter, you’ll still experience lines of happy people climbing the falls in a beautiful setting.
If you’ve ever seen a Caribbean travel brochure with pictures beyond the beach, chances are it features at least one shot from Dunn’s River Falls. You know the one — lines of happy people, holding hands, climbing through falling waters all in a perfectly-beautiful setting. You might also recognize it from the Sean Connery-era James Bond movie, “Dr. No,” or from “Cocktail” featuring Tom Cruise.
While crowds peak between 11 am and 2 pm — especially when cruise ships are in port — everyone seems to be in a jolly, cooperative and fun mood as they line up with guide groups to start the walk down to the waterfall base.
The pricey photo package is provided on a DVD, which makes playback clumsy. But unless you have a waterproof camera or a commercially-available waterproof camera carrier, it’s your best option. We carried my phone in a waterproof carrier as a back-up.
Reaching the beach area where the crystal-clear cool water from the falls meets the warm turquoise waters of the Caribbean, guides provide instructions for climbing, holding hands in a human chain and having fun on the way up the 180-foot vertical journey. While much of Dunn’s River Falls maintains its natural shape, a few man-made alterations like concrete steps and hand rails make sections of the climb more manageable.
A local camera person accompanies each group, staging photos and videos for those who purchased the (pricey!) package at the start. Despite the cost, this is a better option for recording your climb than carrying your own camera. If you do take your camera, it’s best to use a commercially-available waterproof carrier with a strap, one that permits picture-taking without removing the camera from the bag. And then, it’s best to use this as a second camera to supplement pictures from the local package.
While most visitors climb the falls and depart, admission allows for an all-day stay. That gives you an option of climbing again, walking the beautiful grounds, or visiting the small, secluded and quiet beach at the base of the falls.
Know, too, that your admission to Dunn’s River Falls allows for an all-day stay. While visitors book excursionsand visit for about two hours, there’s a quaint, clean, and uncrowded sandy beach available for your enjoyment, too. Plus the remainder of the grounds is a tropical garden paradise.
Our least-favorite part of Dunn’s River Falls was the forced-march exit path through local vendors. Generally, we enjoy browsing Caribbean markets, but we found vendors here to be aggressive — with several refusing to accept a polite “no thank you” and continuing to push into personal space.
After successfully climbing the falls, we enjoyed some picture-taking before departure. Our least-favorite part of the day was the forced-march exit path through aggressive local vendors.
Know Before You Go
Sun screen is a necessity for any of these adventures.
Bring some bug spray. You’ll be glad you did.
Wear hard sole shoes that grip surfaces, not flip flops. Dunn’s River Falls has shoes for rent, but they are the soft-soled water shoes .
Excursions offer convenient options, but all these attractions can be visited independently. Going on your own will allow you more time, and may permit you to go at less-crowded periods.
You Might Also Enjoy
Keeping with our water theme of this post, you might also like:
If you enjoyed this blog, you might also enjoy meeting Louise the toothless gator. She’s a regular on the Louisiana Swamp tour with Captain Craig.
Louisiana Swamp and Gator Tour. Authentic Cajun Captain Craig Matherne takes us on an air boat adventure in search of alligators near New Orleans, LA.
Lobsterin’ on the Lulu. While visiting Bar Harbor, ME, we enjoyed this three-hour site seeing and educational tour on working lobster boat.
Short Hikes to Tall Waterfalls. The North Georgia mountains near Atlanta feature spectacular waterfalls, and these require only a short walk for viewing.
Salmon Fishing Lessons from Alaska. On a cruise stop in Ketchikan, we booked a half-day guided fishing trip in search of salmon. Captain Dan didn’t disappoint.
See All Our Blogs. Just follow the link and scroll through a few years of adventures. Or, select by topic from the top navigation bar.
The willing and silly were encouraged to try a Maine tradition of lobster kissing. But I’m not convinced that it’s a tradition — except to entertain tour guides!On our salmon fishing adventure in Ketchikan, we landed this beauty — the fish, not the mermaid holding it.
With the unpredictability of TSA lines and more time on my hands in retirement, I am arriving at ATL earlier for departing flights. And the last thing I want to do is sit around a crowded gate area with other bored passengers waiting to be squeezed in, motionless, even longer on the upcoming flight.
Once my antidote for a long wait or connection was a SkyClub Bloody Mary, served with bottles of Worcestershire and Tabasco on the side for my final customization. Now, my preferred cure for preflight waits is the longest walk at ATL: two miles, one-way, all beyond security, and perfect for getting your blood moving and daily steps in before or between flights. Best of all, depending on the time available, you can easily do all or part of the longest walk, complete it round trip by foot for a four-mile excursion, or combine it with a plane train return if you get behind schedule.
Accounting for Plane Train congestion and some pauses for attractions or distractions, the longest walk from Main Terminal to Gate F1 takes approximately 40 minutes, one-way at a brisk pace.
My version of the longest walk follows the connector tunnels
and generally keeps off the crowded concourses, where walking speed and time
requirements are unpredictable. As you’ll
see, some concourse traversing is required but it’s limited to the
least-crowded sections of Concourse E and the extra-wide aisles of the new
International Concourse.
Here’s the basic, one-way route guide for ATL’s longest walk,
starting at the Main Terminal:
Descend the escalators from Main Terminal security
to the connector tunnels.
Walk the connector tunnels from Main Terminal to
Concourse E. Train traffic at the escalator area will be busiest.
Ascend the escalators to Concourse E, then walk
straight across, beyond the food court, around the children’s art exhibit at
gate E14, then past gates E15 to E18.
Descend into the connector tunnel toward the
International Terminal.
Ascend to the International Terminal, and turn
right to Gate F1, the end of the one-way walk.
Turn around and repeat, or walk and descend to
the train plane station for a quick ride to your concourse.
Descend the escalators from Main Terminal security, then walk the tunnel system. You’ll ascend and traverse Concourse E before continuing into the final tunnel to the International Terminal.
In my experience, the one-way trek requires about 40 to 45 minutes
when walking at a brisk pace and pulling a single roll-aboard. Your travel time
will vary based on your walking speed and the airport attractions or distractions
which may delay you along with way.
Between T-Concourse and Concourse A
Here, ATL’s oldest and most elaborate display of airport art
features African artifacts. Large stone carvings and bright photographs adorn
this tunnel. Attentive walkers will notice that half of the carvings face
toward Concourse T, while half face toward Concourse A. This way, African art
welcomes you whether you’re arriving or departing ATL.
Between Concourses A and B
With dimmed lighting and surrounded by the sights and sounds of a Georgia wetland, artist Steve Waldeck’s 450-foot long “Flight Paths” truly is an immersive experience. As you reach the midway point and hear thunder, watch as first-timers actually try to avoid the projected images of water dripping into a pond on the floor. Along the way, colorful leaves and a small patch of bird-filled sky line the ceiling.
Between Concourses B and C
Take a walk on the historical side, tracing Atlanta’s evolution from prehistoric times through the Terminus, Civil War and Civil Rights periods and to the 1996 Olympic Games. Blending written, pictorial and video displays, the history walk is both educational and entertaining. The staring and solemn faces of oppressed black citizens and Civil Rights champions are juxtaposed with Atlanta’s business and economic symbols, includindg former Mayor and airport namesake William Hartsfield waving overhead from an airplane. Like Atlanta’s story, the exhibit is complex, confusing and – eventually – triumphant.
Between Concourses C and E
Move along, nothing to see here. Literally! Nothing. Nada. Carpet. Ceiling tile, and the occasional scraping sound of a misaligned conveyor wheel below the moving sidewalk. It’s also the least crowded area, so picking up the pace is a good option.
Traversing Concourse E
Immediately after exiting the escalator, the city remembers Dr. Martin Luther King with a dedicated display. One of his suits in the display would indicate a man of average stature, but his impact on our nation truly was larger than life. Fittingly, the display is located directly in front of the airport chapel.
As you walk straight across the concourse and past the center
food court, you may be entertained by one of Atlanta’s musical artists at a
grand piano. When not played live, the player-piano mode entertains the bar
patrons nearby. Atlanta’s airport musician program pays local performers $75
per hour to entertain and calm travelers.
International Terminal
If you have trouble with vacation planning, amble over to Gate F-8. There, leave your planning to fate (F-8) and decide your next vacation location based on the destination displayed.
Or, if you prefer, stand in the center atrium, examine the two glittering pieces of art suspended from the ceiling, and join the local debate about their place, worth, and general effect on the universe.
Other Interesting Art and Artifacts
OK, I know this was a walk, and your primary interest may be exercise. If not, to paraphrase Ferris Bueller, “Airport life moves pretty fast. If you don’t stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it.”
As you approach the top of the escalators at Concourse E, look back over your shoulder to the inspiring work of long-time Atlanta artist Radcliffe Bailey. The work, entitled “Saints” reflects African-American culture and themes. But for this New Orleans-area native, I’m also amused that the title also is the name of the arch-rivals of the Atlanta Falcons – the New Orleans Saints – and that a careful examination will find a “Who Dat” or two hidden in the artwork.
Also on Concourse E, check out the various whimsical artwork suspended from the ceilings at Gates E-16 Charles Hubbard’s four works evoke humor and curiosity, and pay homage to the various ideas about building flying machines.
One more amusing artifact: service animal restrooms. Hey, those dogs gotta go somewhere, and these
plush pee points feature artificial grass and a fire hydrant.
Other ATL Airport Options
I’ve spent lots of time in ATL as a connecting traveler
throughout my career, and now as an area resident. Here are some other options
for enjoying
an extended layover in ATL, as well as my recommendations on the best
dining at ATL.
Gone: Atlanta’s smoking lounges faded into history Jan. 1, 2020. Thus, no more stopping to peer into the smoker’s aquarium.
More on This Topic
If you want to find or avoid the longest airport walks, here’s a link you might like. I’ve done many of these over my professional career.
Our Other Airport Guides
While I’ve traveled to 48 US states and 32 countries, I didn’t start writing this blog until near my retirement. But here area a few airports where I had both time and enough interest to write up some observations:
The aluminum air boat moved as slowly as the thick August air as we navigated the no-wake zone and our captain described his plan for the rest of the morning. Reaching the end of the canal, the engine roared and we shot across the open pond past great herons, snow-white egrets, jumping fish, small islands and narrow canals. We slowed, then slid roughly, climbing to the top of a small levee. We paused at the apex, then with another quick roar the air boat dipped into the water and glided smoothly at the edge of a cypress swamp.
Our deeply-tanned guide stepped down from his elevated pilot’s chair and walked to the front of the boat, standing nearest two visitors from Hawaii who had cameras at the ready.
“Manger poulet. Manger poulet,” the guide yelled in Cajun French. (Pronounced, mon-zjay poo-lay, translated as, eat chicken). One hand waved and the other displayed a small piece of raw chicken.
The long, dark, scaled snout of an alligator slowly emerged – then the head, then the body, and more body, and the tail and more tail and more tail. We came face-to-snout with several gators during our air boat tour through the Louisiana swamp.
Tall grass began moving near the boat. The long, dark,
scaled snout of an alligator slowly emerged – then the head, then the body, and
more body, and the tail and more tail and more tail.
Like a Cajun Santa calling a cute cartoon gator in the Cajun Night Before Christmas, Captain Craig Matherne greeted the prehistoric apex predator by name as the flipped his powerful scaled tail and launched himself onto the boat’s bow for his own swamp bow. And that’s how we met Lucky Pierre, the first of many gators and other swamp creatures we encountered roaming the multi-colored marsh and cypress swamps southwest of New Orleans with Captain Craig.
With a fast flip of its powerful scaled tail, the prehistoric apex predator launched itself up onto the boat, the first of many gators and other swamp creatures we encountered roaming the multi-colored marsh and cypress swamps.
Why Tour Here?
The river parishes, bayou towns and swamps surrounding New Orleans are home to abundant wildlife and legendary characters. Following US Highway 90 from New Orleans to Lafayette takes you right through the heart of this Louisiana swamp country. Located approximately 30 miles southwest of New Orleans, the fishing village of Des Allemands is a great place to experience an airboat ride that combines swamp sightseeing, local tales, and close-up encounters with alligators. That’s where we signed on for a 90-minute airboat tour through Airboat Tours by Arthur.
Des Allemands is my home town. The French name translates as “the Germans” and the area is a unique part of Louisiana’s German Coast. Here, shiploads of German immigrants began settling in the 1720s, followed in the 1760s by French families who migrated from Nova Scotia after a dispute with the English rulers of Canada. Establishing footholds on the soil and swamps of the Mississippi flood plain, they traded with Caribbean islanders, Native Americans of the Houmas and Choctaw tribes, and even Jean Lafitte’s pirate band that used the local waterways and a shell mound called The Templefor smuggling. Eventually, the diverse cultures fused into a community as rich in tradition as the local swamp is in nutrients supporting broad biodiversity.
Establishing footholds on the soil and swamps of the Mississippi flood plain, Germans, French Acadians, Caribbean islanders, Native Americans, and even Jean Lafitte’s pirate band fused into a community as rich in tradition as the local swamp is in nutrients supporting broad biodiversity.
Before oil refineries and chemical plants sprouted on the banks of the Mississippi in the 1950s and 1960s, families either farmed the dark soil nearest the river or depended on the bounty of the swamps and marshes for their livelihoods. Growing up here, our family owned a pleasure boat and we frequently spent weekends at fishing camps near Lake Des Allemands, the fresh water source for the surrounding swamps and marshes, and Lake Salvador, the brackish barrier to the South. We set fishing lines and crab traps, feasting on the fresh catch while resting from water skiing and swimming.
Thus, while I was familiar with the area, I had lived
out-of-state for more than 30 years, so my summer-time visit back home provided
a great opportunity to reconnect with the area and some old friends. I chose Airboat Tours by Arthur because it’s
locally owned, has access to privately-owned marsh lands, canals and cypress
swamps, and works with locals like Captain Craig who intimately know the
territory. (While his tours are great, Arthur ain’t exactly web-savvy, so the
best way to book is to call:
985-758-5531)
Captain Craig: Naturalist and Storyteller
Captain Craig is an entrepreneurial naturalist, knowledgeable about Cajun history and a master of swamp lore. When he’s not calling gators from the marsh, Craig’s likely deep into some story about the swinging dating lives of alligators, real-life Cajun characters or regional folk lore.
Captain Craig might best be described as an entrepreneurial naturalist, combining love for his native South Louisiana environment with responsible business ventures. His roots run deep, as his dad was born on a houseboat on Bayou Des Allemands, and an artificial reef in Lake Pontchartrainis named in honor of Vincent Matherne’s conservation contributions. Craig managed his family’s boat and marine business, operated fishing charters in Grand Isle, is a licensed waterway pilot and frequently serves as a technical consultant on university, government and private environmental and conservation research projects.
In addition to his expertise in the local natural
environments, Captain Craig is knowledgeable about Cajun history and a master
of swamp lore, as evidenced by his non-stop, Cajun-accented narration at every
tour stop. So when he’s not calling gators from the marsh, tempting them onto
the boat, or petting them on their snouts, Craig’s likely deep into some story
about natural habitat, the swinging dating lives of alligators, real-life Cajun
characters or regional folk lore.
Deep in the cypress swamp, Captain Craig whispered that we should keep watch for the Rougarou, a half Big Foot, half werewolf swamp-dwelling creature.
Just over half-way through our tour, Captain Craig navigated the boat deep into a huge stand of ancient cypress trees. High above in the canopy, he pointed out an active bald eagle’s nest. As he completed a botanically-accurate rendition of how the cypress stand was created, the swamp rustled as a slight breeze stirred the heavy air. An air-borne mullet splashed into the channel behind us. Craig looked, then stared deeply into the surrounding brush, concern etched on his face. Whispering, he asked our Hawaiian visitors to keep watch for the Rougarou, a half Big Foot, half werewolf swamp-dwelling creatureknown well to the locals.
A good laugh and half-minute later, Craig was relating the full story of the Rougarou, and sharing its origin stories from the European werewolf and tracing it through the Caribbean Islands legend of an old woman in league with the devil, the Loupgarou. Believe me, if you’ve ever been on a tour where a guide read from a script or simply went through memorized motions, you’ll truly appreciate the down-home authenticity of Captain Craig.
While Captain Craig coaxed gators near and up onto the boat, this definitely falls into the “don’t try this at home” category. These cold-blooded behemoths pack a 2,500-pounds-per-square-inch snapping power.
Gators Galore
But let’s face it, for anyone who’s ever watched an episode of Swamp People on History Channel, the alligators are the main attraction of this tour. Ironically, they were nearly wiped out here by the side effects of DDT, once the area’s go-to insecticide that also destroyed the egg shells of native gators and the Louisiana state bird, the pelican. After a DDT ban and time on the endangered and protected species lists, both gators and pelicans have returned in large numbers here. Gators are nocturnal, so on an evening tour after eggs are hatched in late summer, it’s not unusual to spot hundreds of gator eyes reflecting their eerie red glow from the water’s surface. On this hot August day while most of the cold-blooded behemoths were chilling in deep holes, we spotted approximately 10 large gators, including Lucky Pierre. Later, we met Louise, a 9-footer estimated to be 30 to 35 years old, with teeth rubbed down to small nubs from years of biting and fighting. Unfortunately for us, Big Al and Big Bubba, two of the largest gators measuring over 12 feet, remained hidden from our boat.
Don’t let that smiling face fool you. Louise is a 30+ year-old, 9-foot-long gator, a seasoned fighter, and a swamp survivor. Her teeth are worn down to nubs from years of swamp fighting and lots of biting.
While Captain Craig coaxed three gators to come closer with his calls and the promise of chicken, luring gators definitely falls into “don’t-try-this-at-home” category. They are lightning fast over short distance, and adults pack a bone-crunching 2,500-pound-per-square-inch snapping force. And while alligators have two sets of eye lenses adapted for optimum viewing in the murky swamp water, their prehistoric brains don’t allow them to process subtle differences between chicken thrown to them and the hands throwing it. And despite the small amount of chicken they get from the tours, huge hungers require them to continue wild hunting to survive. I’ll also note that feeding gators in the wild is illegal, and that the gators on our tour only could be fed because they are on private lands.
Know Before You Go
The Real Deal. If you need a bit more convincing, Captain Craig has posted some pictures and videos of his tours and gator encounters. You can preview them before you go – or visit after your tour if you just can’t get enough gator time — on Facebook, Instagram and YouTube. Also, we learned at the end of our tour from landowner Ray Matherne that part of his property would be hunted for gators during the upcoming season. You won’t see this location on Swamp People and the area we toured shouldn’t be affected by the hunting.
While you may not see it on History Channel’s Swamp People, these local land owners will be allowing some of this swamp to be hunted during the upcoming gator season.
Local restaurants. Once you’re outside of New Orleans, local restaurants come down in price and up in authenticity. The original location of Spahr’s Seafood in Des Allemandsis located in a converted Exxon station and serves some of the best local catfish from the Catfish Capital of the Universe. Also, if it’s available, check out the turtle soup. And though after 25-pluse years in the restaurant business I still find this hard to say, a regional convenience store called Birdies Fuel and Food has some of the best fish and shrimp poboys I’ve ever eaten, and at a bargain price. Another nearby favorite in Boutte is Cajun Kitchen, again with prices not inflated by New Orleans overhead.
Combining the best of local seafood, Cajun cooking and close-up swamp views, Sphar’s original location in a former Exxon station near Des Allemands is a great dining choice.
Buying local seafood. Where once you could drive along the bayou road and find fresh-caught catfish, shrimp and crabs sold directly off the boat, food safety and licensing requirements make that difficult – if not impossible – for out-of-town visitors. A local might give you a recommendation on where to find some. Otherwise, Hebert’s Seafood in Boutteoffers a good variety of fresh, in-season local favorites.
Destrehan Plantation. If you want a break from New Orleans but only have a day, plan to visit Destrehan Plantation in the morning, then take an airboat tour in the afternoon. Destrehan is the oldest plantation on the Mississippi and is well-restored. For ghost and pirate hunters, Destrehan Plantation has the best of both worlds – alleged ghost sightings of Pirate Jean Lafitte under the broad oaks where slave auctions once were conducted.
Jean Lafitte National Park. For more Cajun culture and experiences, Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve is a multi-location treasure featuring different aspects of Louisiana life. In nearby Thibodaux, the Wetlands Acadian Cultural Center often features a wide range of south Louisiana’s music: zydeco, gospel, blues, jazz, Cajun, and more. Historic walking tours and boat rides also are available. Further into Cajun Country in Lafayette, the park’s Acadian Cultural Center tells stories of the origins, migration, and culture of the Acadians who became known as Cajuns.
Other Adventures You Might Like
If you enjoyed this post, here are a few of our others with
similar tour and activity themes you may also enjoy:
Love’n Lobster’n on the Lulu. After growing up in Louisiana, we had to check out lobster fishing while on a cruise stop in Bar Harbor, Maine. We chronicle the outing, and our adventures in lobster eating.
Salmon Fishing Lessons in Alaska.We heard from friends and neighbors that salmon fishing was a “must-try” while in Alaska. While in Ketchikan, we booked a half-day excursion that turned out to be much more than expected.
We Rented and RV! Now What?On a whim, we packed our family of three plus adult children and grandkids into a rented RV for a weekend get away. Here’s what we learned.
Proving that air boat tours and swamp stories aren’t just for visitors, my boyhood neighbor, Tommy McCulley (left) and me (right) pose with Captain Craig.
Great travel is made better by great connections and good fortune. And on a trip that included less than 24 hours in Munich, that’s how we wound up on a behind-the-scenes tour of Munich’s Hofbrauhaus, courtesy of good friend and former work colleague Dr. Martin Behle.
Of course, you know the Hofbrauhaus — Munich’s giant, iconic beer hall dating back to the late 1500 and now a global chain exporting German beer, food and fun around the world. Visit any day, and it’s a giant party. Inside, you’ll likely find an om-pa band in the cavernous dining areas, where wooden picnic-style tables create a cozy (and sometimes, suffocating!) closeness with locals and visitors alike. On warm days, the crowd spills out into the beer garden and on the balconies.
Our behind-the-scenes tour was not the public brewery tour, but a privately-arranged tour of the massive beer hall complex. While we greatly enjoyed the tour, that likely was because I spent more than 25 years in the restaurant equipment business, so my definition of “enjoyment” may be warped by regular travel standards. And yes, before and after the tour, we greatly enjoyed a selection of beers and food.
An appetizing sampler tray of German cheeses, sausages and more delighted us before and after our Hofbrauhaus tour.
For those into the art of brewing, Hofbrauhaus does offer a brewery tour. It’s available Monday through Thursday, and only by reservation at least 14 days in advance. Groups are limited to a maximum of 30 people, and it’s recommended you book much earlier than the 14-day window to be assured your choice of tours.
Here are some thoughts on consuming the food, beer and hospitality that Munich has to offer — even in a mere 24 hours:
Focus on the City Center, Marienplatz. Don’t waste your short visit trying to do everything and wind up stuck in transit doing nothing. Instead, find a hotel near the city center, and start your visit at Marienplatz. We stayed at The Louis Hotel, an upscale location that TripAdvisor.Com lists as the No. 16 hotel in the city. In addition to a wide variety of restaurants and shops, the Neues Rathaus (new town hall), Altes Rathaus (old town hall) and historic churches like Alte St. Peter and the Frauenkirche are nearby. The two churches offer tower views of the city. Enjoy a pleasant walk and snap lots of pictures and Munich is a ready-to-frame photographers dream world.
Altes Rathaus (old town hall) and many other sites make Munich is a ready-to-frame photographers dream world
Consider a Bike Tour. Munich is very bike friendly, and there are a number of bike tour operators that do a great job giving a city overview for the active visitor. Munich Bike Tours and Rentals and Mike’s Bike Tours offer a variety of small-group tours in English, and are located near Marienplatz. They also offer bike rental if you want to explore on your own.
Don’t Be Afraid to of Public Transportation. The trains of the underground U-Bahn and the above-ground trains and trams of the S-Bahn are clean, safe and (fairly) easy to navigate. Maps are easy-t0-understand, fares are reasonable, and the system goes everywhere. The Marienplatz station is the center of the system, and provides easy (if somewhat overwhelming and confusing) options to go almost anywhere. If you only have 24 hours, don’t spend it on the train. But if you have more time, use the U-Bahn and S-Bahn to travel easily.
Do Visit a Beer Hall or Beer Garden. Yes, go to Hofbrauhaus, and enjoy the beer, food and atmosphere. And, if you decide to go elsewhere, there are many great choices beyond this iconic location. Chinesischer Turm beer garden is located in the English Gardens. If your 24 hours starts in early afternoon, you may decide to go out for a visit and a beer, then head back into the center of the city. Other great choices — depending on your beer tastes and time available — include Augustinerkeller, Muffatwerk (in an old power plant), and Lowenbraukeller.
In Germany, follow the parade. Chances are it will lead to some local festival or event.
Look for Local Events. We were walking in Marienplatz, and a parade started to organize. We didn’t have time on a Saturday morning to follow along. If something like this happens to you in Munich (or almost anywhere in Germany, for that matter), join in and see where it leads. We’ve enjoyed any number of local festivals in small towns and larger ones just by following a crowd or getting a local tip.
More Below the Photographs:
Links to some of the businesses and locations mentioned here can be found following these photographs.
Inside, the Hofbrauhaus beer hall features wooden tables and an om-pa band. On warm days and summer evenings, the beer garden and balconies are overflowing — even if the chairs aren’t comfortable.
Since our private tour took us to the food preparation areas, we had to wear protective gear. I swear we were in focus when the camera beer goggles were applied.
Good friend and former work colleague Dr. Martin Behle arranged our tour. He used the event to debut a new marketing video starring — you guessed it! — Dr. Martin Behle.
Helpful Links:
Here are links to topics and locations mentioned in this article:
It’s hard to believe that once – and not so long ago —
Central Florida was a sleepy backwater surrounded by orange groves, swamps and
a natural landscape conducive to jungle-thick plant growth. But unless you’re a
botanist or professional horticulturalist, chances are today you visit Central
Florida for man-made wonders and encounters with cartoon animals that largely
have displaced the plentiful fauna and robust flora that originally earned the
state its name.
Central Florida once was a sleepy backwater surrounded by orange groves, swamps and a natural landscape conducive to jungle-thick plant growth. You can still find it — in the shadows of downtown Orlando
Whether you’re inspired by a desire for natural beauty or
simply motivated by that empty feeling where your wallet once sat, it’s easy,
inexpensive and convenient to enjoy a day with nature near the heart of the
Orlando area. In fact, natural beauty blooms in Orlando’s year-round sunny
light, with not a mouse, dolphin, or magic wand in sight. And to prolong your
escape from the hustle and bustle around I-4, there’s a swan boat located
nearby, almost next door.
Seeking respite from the touristy tyranny of the mouse and wizards, we discovered the natural beauty of Harry Leu Botanical Gardens.
Seeking respite from the touristy tyranny of the mouse and wizards, yet wanting to enjoy an active beautiful spring day, we remembered that our annual membership to the Atlanta Botanical Garden offered free reciprocal admissions to member gardens affiliated with the American Horticultural Society. A quick web search led us to Harry P. Leu Gardens, located in the shadows of the high-rises of today’s downtown Orlando.
It’s easy to love Leu, once you find it. When we visited, driving
in from the South near theme park central required a winding trek through I-4
construction zones, veering sharply with little notice on to poorly-marked
exits, and a series of Google Maps directed turns through downtown and nearby residential
districts.
The gardens are a walker’s paradise, with well-marked, wide walkways providing easy access. In our two-plus hour visit, I recorded nearly 6,000 steps of walking
But once we arrived, we left all of that behind and immersed ourselves in the natural setting, casually exploring the 14 garden sections and attraction areas while literally taking time to smell the roses, camellias, magnolias and other blooming plants. Harry P. Leu Gardensis a walker’s paradise, with well-marked, wide walkways providing easy access for both the fully and differently-abled. In our two-plus hour visit, I recorded nearly 6,000 steps of walking (slightly under three miles) on my trusty Garmin Vivoactive HR. Complimentary wheelchairs are available (on a first-come, first served basis) for those who might find long walks a bit challenging, and there are plenty of opportunities for youngsters to roam and explore without getting into sensitive or off-limit areas. However, pets are not permitted, except for service animals.
Venturing into the tropical stream garden, we enjoyed the vivid colors of bromeliads and rain forest flora.
The helpful team at Leu Gardens has a suggested garden tour route, and even different versions for those with time limitations. And the map provided to visitors has well-marked sections featuring huge numbers and garden descriptions. But we ignored all those – not on purpose, but because we were distracted by the 2,000 blooming camellias and scenic overlooks of Lake Rowena. Thus, referencing the map-numbered attractions, our path went something like, 1, 2, 14, 10, 14, 12, 7 . . . well, you get the point. We laughed and wandered and sniffed in the face of suggested way-finding.
By the time our 150-minute visit was over, we visited all the garden’s sections, even though our time was shortened slightly by dark clouds on the horizon which released large drops of water in copious quantities just as we reached our car, then stopped before we reached the end of the entry driveway.
We walked under 200-year-old oak trees to enter the gardens. Visitors also can enjoy small lunches on the visitor center deck under the trees.
Entering under the 200-year-old oak trees outside the garden house (No. 1 on the tour map!), we ventured into the tropical stream garden (No. 2!) and enjoyed the vivid colors of bromeliads and rain forest flora. Then we turned off the numbered route to the Lake Rowena overlook, the North Woods and one of multiple camelia sections, which comprise one of the largest camellia collections in the US. Next, we wandered into the palms and bamboo, both so jungle-thick and primal in appearance that we fully expected a small raptor might emerge at any moment, Jurrasic Park style. We continued to the South Woods, stopping for more camellias before reaching the White Garden, then circling the Arid Garden.
The palms and bamboo were jungle-thick and primal in appearance. We fully expected a small raptor might emerge at any moment, Jurassic Park style.
This path had taken us around the perimeter of the 50-acre garden, so we consulted our map and plotted a course to the garden’s heart – Mary Jane Leu’s rose garden. After the Leus purchased their retreat in the 1940s, they traveled the world collecting plants, a life-long avocation. Meanwhile, Mary Jane Leu began planting roses near the lake, and in 1944, the first roses at the current rose garden site were planted. Today, the rose garden features more than 200 different rose varieties and over 650 plants, all well-suited to the Central Florida climate.
The vibrant colors of the rose garden flowed over to the aptly-named color garden, a flashy collection of annuals and perennials.
After the rose garden, we explored the color garden, herb
garden, the vegetable garden, the demonstration garden and chased butterflies –
with our camera’s photo lens only! – in the butterfly garden. And though we
live in the Northwest Georgia hills where growing conditions are very
different, we stopped to read the helpful growing tips throughout each of these
areas.
We chased and successfully captured butterflies in the butterfly garden — but only with our telephoto lens.
All these garden areas are adjacent to the Leu House, now a
museum and indefinitely closed since 2017 following heavy
damage in Hurricane Irma. Prior to the hurricane, the Leu House had been
restored and furnished to the 1940s time period. Closing your eyes and hoping a
siren didn’t pierce the garden’s serenity, you could only imagine how splendid
and tranquil living here would have been in those long-gone days before Walt
Disney secretly purchased nearby swamp land and began the modern
transformation.
Closing your eyes and hoping a siren didn’t pierce the garden’s serenity, you could only imagine how splendid and tranquil living here would have been in those long-gone days before Walt Disney secretly purchased nearby swamp land.
Instead of waxing nostalgic and getting on a rant about the need to preserve more of Florida’s remaining natural beauty, I’ll simply say this: when in Orlando, visit Harry P. Leu Gardens. Even if you don’t have the benefit of free admission through the American Horticultural Society, a family visit is reasonably priced and highly enjoyable. And if you want, pack a lunch or bring in some food from a nearby restaurant as small bag lunches are allowed under the oak trees on the patio of the Garden House.
More “Old Florida”
If we’ve tweaked your botanical or historical geek with this
post, you may enjoy other “Old Florida” travel and entertainment ideas:
Mead Botanical Garden. Another 47-acres of natural Florida and landscaped beauty, Mead Botanical Garden is located across Lake Sue from Leu Gardens. It’s less than 10 minutes away by car.
Lake Eola Swan Boats. Enjoy the scenery from the water with a swan boat rental. The City of Orlando rents the pedal-powered swan boats, perfect for a couples or family outing. You can frequently find Groupon offers for these rentals. Tourists and locals rave about the fun experience, and you can check out some of their comments on Trip Advisor.
Classic Florida attractions. If you’re in a Jimmy Buffett nostalgic rage, just step right up and act your age, visiting some of these classic Florida attractions. Most are outside of Orlando. Gatorland in Kissimmee is nearest, and the mermaids of Weeki Wachi Springs are my favorites.
Novels by Carl Hiaasen and Tim Dorsey. Both of these Florida writers came out of the newspaper business, Carl Hiaasen with the Miami Herald and Tim Dorsey with the Tampa Tribune. Both feature novels that describe parts of “Old Florida” with reverence and love, while telling whacked-out stories of about the kind of assorted lunatics who today make real-life news under the headlines “Florida Man.” Of course, given my journalism degree and newspaper background, I may just have a soft spot for journalists who’ve done well.
You May Also Enjoy
We love these “off the beaten path” attractions, for the experiences and the fun we have trying to find them. Here are a few of our favorites, and a tip on how to find them:
Free Di$ney Day $aved Hundred$. We found Leu Gardens because we were in the Disney doldrums. On a previous visit, when our physical batteries and wallets were empty, we used our creativity to entertain the grand kids without spending a bundle.
Mardi Gras and Moon Pies in Mobile. Though New Orleans may own the most recognized pre-Lenten celebration in the US, it actually originated about 150 miles east in the sleepy port town of Mobile, Alabama. If you’re cruising I-10, check out this fun stop in downtown Mobile.
Short Hikes, Tall Georgia Waterfalls. Because we often have the grand kids or elderly parents along, we’ve been on the lookout for the tallest Georgia waterfalls requiring short walks for enjoying their spectacular plunges.
Finding Free Fun on Road Trips. With more time, an insatiable hunger for discovery, and age-related bladder requirements, we’re traveling at slower speeds with more stops along the way. We use this app to help us find hidden treasures.
Our Newest Adventures. We’re adding new stuff more regularly these days, catching up with our posts after some extended travel and some family distractions. Find all our latest at our blog, including lobsters, Lincoln, lizard people, and more!
Growing up in South Louisiana along the bayous, lakes, river
and Gulf, we learned early that if something swam or crawled in the water, it
likely was good eatin’.
We poled and cast lines to catch all varieties of fish in
the bayous and canals near Des Allemands, LA, proclaimed the Catfish Capital of
the Universe by the Louisiana state legislature. We caught crabs off fishing piers using
string, chicken necks and a net. We trawled the bottoms of lakes and the Gulf
of Mexico for white and brown shrimp, pulling large nets behind small boats
bobbing on white-capped waters. And, of course, we slogged among the snakes
through the mud-bottomed swamps in waist-high water wearing knee-high boots to
catch that Louisiana delicacy, crawfish.
Thus, it should come as no surprise that during a trip to Maine, we had to experience lobstering. We weren’t residents of Maine, thus didn’t qualify for a lobster fishing license. And we didn’t have the time nor the tolerance to toil for a season as a deck hand on a local lobster boat, as attractive as that might have sounded (not!). But on a one-day cruise ship stop in Bar Harbor, we found the near-perfect solution – the Lulu Lobster Boat tour.
Lulu Lobster Boat is a commercial lobstering vessel, converted for comfortable educational and scenic tours. She docks near Main Street, and behind the street-side ticket booth.
I say near perfect for two nit-picky reasons. First, growing up in the Sixties, the idea of a three-hour tour leaving any harbor with nearby islands stirred some Gilligan-like skittishness from deep inside my memory banks. And second, according to the website, this was more observation than participation, and didn’t offer the catch-clean-eat options like our salmon fishing trip in Alaska.
Putting that first concern aside and recognizing that
finding fresh lobster near Bar Harbor likely would be as simple as bead
collecting for a topless twenty-something at Mardi Gras, we pre-purchased our
tickets through Trip Advisor before leaving home.
We sailed into Bar Harbor onHolland America’s Zaandam on a perfect June morning — not a cloud in the sky and a warming trend pushing temperatures to the mid-70s by the our 10 am tour departure time. For the record, I also had checked the weather reports since the first five days of our cruise had been plagued by rain, wind and lots of motion from the ocean. The not-perfect storm that followed us up the St. Lawrence River had weakened and moved well out to sea. No Minnow or Lulu tossing-weather was expected, though I still did attract an odd stare or two when I hummed the Ballad of Gilligan’s Island as we cast off.
We arrived in Bar Harbor, ME, on a perfect June day and were greeted by fresh-baked blueberry pies in a dockside window. The not-so-perfect storm that had been following us was now well out to sea.
Let’s also get some other details on the record. The Lulu Lobster Boat is an actual lobstering vessel, common to what you’d find in ports along the Atlantic coast from Massachusetts to Maine and into Nova Scotia. As required by law, the operators possess a lobstering license, although it’s a demonstration licensewhich prohibits keeping the catch. They use commercial traps that support sustainabilityand safety for lobsters and humans alike. Their traps are identified by uniquely-painted lobster buoys that dot the surface everywhere. And the crew is made up of local marine-experienced Mainers.
But that’s where the similarities to commercial lobster
fishing end. Lulu Lobster Boat has been reconfigured for comfort, with rows of
padded seats in the center and around the perimeter, covered by a Bimini top to
block sun and rain. Sides can zip down in cold or rainy weather, which wasn’t
necessary for us. And, unlike Skipper Jonas Grumby, captain Finn and first mate
Galen assured us that the Lulu stays in port if the Bar Harbor weather is
expected to start getting rough.
Motoring through the harbor past our cruise ship and around the man-made breakwater, our first-mate regaled us with area history, nearby landmarks and local stories of townies and fishermen alike.
We threw off the moorings at the end of an ebbing tide, watching intrepid hikers walking across the now-exposed land-bridge over to Bar Island and kayakers paddling away from the downtown docks for their own excursions. A few gulls circled overhead then turned back, knowing that this tour boat wasn’t worth the effort to follow for three hours in exchange for a paltry few fish.
Motoring through the harbor past our cruise ship and around the man-made breakwater, first-mate Galen regaled us with area history, nearby landmarks and local stories of townies and fishermen alike. Gliding further from the harbor, the peaks of Acadia National Park loomed in the distance as we sailed toward the seal-laden shore of Bird Island and the Bird Island Lighthouse.
Families of seals sunned on the sand as we idled just off Egg Rock Island. Large seals labored further ashore, flapping their flippers and flopping their bodies to gain a few inches of drier shore.
Leaving lobstering for a little later, we idled just off shore of Egg Rock Island, with binoculars and cameras pointed toward the beach. Hundreds of huge seals sunned on the sand and rocks while the hungry dove nearby for underwater treats. By now, the tide was rising slowly, and the larger seals labored further ashore, flapping their flippers and flopping their bodies to gain a few inches of drier shore with each effort. As we changed direction to circle the island, the unmistakable stench of dead fish, bird poop and assorted ocean detritus drifted overhead, prompting shrieks and gasps from the youngsters onboard. That combination – and a few parents saying loudly that their kids looked sick — encouraged Captain Finn to accelerate, get upwind, and hasten to the next highlight on the circle tour of the island – the lighthouse itself.
From a safe distance offshore, First Mate Galen recited a
quick history of the lighthouse and its keepers. He added a few stories of how
intrepid light-bearers braved Maine winters and weather to keep their light
burning brightly, then explained how modern navigation and automation made the
lighthouses obsolete. Just as the youngsters began to look bored, Galen started
talking about the fog horn, which sounded loudly, as if on-cue. After a few
moments of wide-eyed amazement by the kids, Galen explained how radios in
nearby boats now are used to sound the horn, as Captain Finn grinned widely
with the radio control in hand.
Circling the island, the unmistakable stench of dead fish, bird poop and assorted ocean detritus drifted overhead, prompting shrieks and gasps from the youngsters onboard. That combination – and a few parents saying loudly that their kids looked sick — encouraged Captain Finn to accelerate and get upwind
One more short ride and it was time for the real lobstering. In the smooth seas of a protected cove in wonderful weather, Captain Finn snagged the float line, attached the winch, and pulled the traps easily to the boat while Galen narrated the steps. Each trap revealed multiple lobsters of varying size, plus a few crabs. Captain Finn demonstrated the measuring process and tossed the smaller crustaceans back into the sea for another day. Galen led an onboard show-and-tell with the larger specimens, revealing body parts, determining gender, and engaging the kids to place the claw bands. Then, we all had the chance to pose for pictures with the lobster, including some feigned lobster-kissing. After everyone had a turn, the lucky lobsters were returned to the water to rejoin sea-faring friends and family – a legal requirement for the demonstration license held by the Lulu.
Our first-mate led an on-board show-and-tell with the larger lobsters, revealing body parts, determining gender, and engaging hesitant kids to place the claw bands.The willing and silly were encouraged to try a Maine tradition of lobster kissing. But I’m not convinced that it’s a tradition — except to entertain tour guides!
With our appetites now set to lobster, we returned to the dock where our party – and many others – headed directly to the plethora of lobster and seafood restaurants in Bar Harbor. We chose Stewman’s Lobster Pound, conveniently located right on the dock and offering a choice of dock-side or indoor dining. When we returned to Bar Harbor by car later in our trip, we sampled other lobster pound locations in the area that offered better prices. On our final day visiting Bar Harbor and trekking to theBass Harbor Head Lighthousein Acadia National Park, we found Beal’s Lobster Pier in Southwest Harborand agreed it was our favorite. At this combination of seafood market, restaurant and lobster-shipping located on a working lobster dock off the beaten path, we picked a 3-pound lobster to share. We added clams, corn and potatoes, plus a few adult beverages. Then, we sat in the sun away from the Bar Harbor crowds, pulling lobster meat from the abdomen and head, plus every claw, knuckle, foot and tail joint we could pry open. Our lobster bibs captured or deflected most of the flying liquids and shell shrapnel, but lucky for us we didn’t have any close encounters with tourists, cats or scavengers for the remainder of the day.
Following the tour on the Lulu, we enjoyed eating lobster and more at Stewman’s Lobster Pound, located dockside in Bar Harbor. Our lobster bibs captured or deflected most of the flying liquids and shell shrapnel.
On reflection, we learned that lobstering was like the other
seafood harvesting we had done growing up in Louisiana. But mostly, we simply
enjoyed the three-hour tour and would recommend it to anyone visiting the Bar
Harbor area.
On a post-cruise return trip, we discovered and enjoyed Beal’s Lobster Pier in Southwest Harbor. It’s off the beaten path on the way to Bass Head Lighthouse, and offers dockside dining.
Know If You Go:
Advance sales. While tickets are sold at the dock, we’d recommend advance purchase if you’re visiting during peak season. We found Lulu Lobster Boat on TripAdvisor.com, where we read lots of great reviews but found tickets weren’t available. So we headed over to Lulu’s website and bought our tickets directly, receiving fast e-mail confirmations and easy ticket processing.
Cruise tours. Bar Harbor is a popular cruise stop for several major lines, and some of the lines offer Lulu Lobster Boat as a packaged excursion. While it’s always convenient to purchase directly from the cruise line, prices are higher. But you also eliminate any risk – no matter how low! – of missing an early tour due to slow tendering into town or missing your sailing due to some unforeseen problem.
Lobster ice cream. Yes, it’s a real thing. Someone best described it as an unhappy marriage of sweet treats and salty sea fare, and I can’t improve on that. We tried it atBen and Bill’s Chocolate Emporium in Bar Harbor, then bought other items that were more to our liking. That said, our favorite ice cream spot was Mt. Desert Island Ice Cream, where we didn’t even ask about a lobster flavor.
While we tried the lobster ice cream at Ben and Bill’s, we preferred the wide variety of other fearless flavors at Mt Dessert Ice Cream Bar Harbor ME.
You Might Also Enjoy
If you enjoyed this story of our family travels, you might
also enjoy:
Salmon Fishing Lessons from Alaska, another of our cruise and boat-based summer excursions, this one featuring a fish fight, hunting eagles (they were hunting!!), whale tails and tales.
Our Travel Café website, the full and growing assortment of our family adventures over the past few years arranged by menu type.
In addition to the educational information on lobster fishing and local story telling, we enjoyed lobster gymnastics onboard.We left Montreal on the Zaandam in great weather, and arrived in Bar Harbor to a perfect June morning. But in between, a not-so-perfect storm followed us on multiple stops along the St. Lawrence and Nova Scotia coastline.
This has become our summer of accidental Presidential
discovery. What started as a rainy-day choice in Boston to visit the JFK
Presidential Library and Museum unintentionally has morphed into some sort of
historical executive office holder preoccupation determining vacation driving
routes, touring activities, podcast choices and future travel.
The JFK Presidential Library with the I.M. Pei-designed atrium marked the first stop on our summer of accidental Presidential discovery. It seemed as if JFK was walking with us, launching our Presidential discovery journey just as his space challenge aimed our early rockets toward the moon.
Our unplanned explorations have been fortuitous, educational and topical. Our visit to Springfield, IL, the adult hometown, political launching pad and burial place of Abraham Lincoln, just happened to be one of the few potential stops on an otherwise boring drive through the farmlands from St. Louis Chicago. While we originally planned a short tour of Lincoln’s Home at the Lincoln Home National Historic Site, we became immersed in the legend of Lincoln and invested many more hours in Springfield and at the Lincoln Museum and Library.
Similarly, as we considered potential overnight and tour stops on our long drive back from Chicago to Atlanta, we selected Nashville primarily because we could visit Andrew Jackson’s Hermitage. Growing up near New Orleans in in the 1950s-70s, Andrew Jackson was a fixture of my youth, from playing Johnny Horton’s version of “Battle of New Orleans” on guitar to amazement at the artistry and engineering of theClark Mills statue of the famous general and his horse, balanced magically on its hind legs, in front of St. Louis Cathedral in Jackson Square.
Blue was by land, red by sea, and green in the air. Our 6,200+ miles of mixed travel led us to three Presidential sites, with a desire for more. Though Glenda wanted to see how the Nixon Library dealt with Watergate, Yorba Linda, CA, just wasn’t on this route.
Along the way, with our playlist of “Stuff You Missed in History Class”exhausted, we stumbled on the podcast “Presidential,” recorded during the 2016 campaign and focused on an examination of the traits, characteristics and lessons learned from both successful leaders and lesser-known executive office holders. We’ve completed 18 episodes of the ~45-minute program during our 3,800+ mile traversing of the South and Midwest. For those not familiar, that means we’ve covered all presidents from founding fathers George Washington, John Adams, and Thomas Jefferson to war heroes likes Andrew Jackson and Zachary Taylor, through the nation’s greatest test under Abraham Lincoln and its painful recovery under Andrew Johnson and Ulysses S. Grant.
Growing up in the age of Kennedy, Johnson and Nixon, I dreamed of a career in politics, but the “good” kind where you are a faithful public servant helping people and reforming all that is broken.
I can explain this from my own perspective. Long ago in my
foolish youth, I selected political science as my first college major. Coming
on the heels of Watergate and the Nixon drama, all things politics fascinated
me. I even held out a dream of a career in politics – you know, the “good” kind
where you are a faithful public servant helping people and reforming all that
is broken. But even then, with starry eyed optimism and enthusiasm as a guide,
my basic introversion led me away from that course of study and potential
career choice into something with slightly more upside – newspaper journalism.
I mean, media most often were the good guys, advocating for the people against
powerful governments and corrupt leaders using only true facts and the power of
the pen. Plus, newspapers, radio and television had reached equilibrium. Radio
became home for talk shows and opinion.
Television delivered fast visual news around the clock from a relatively
new-and-growing global all-news network. And print media in the form of
national magazines delivered deep, thoughtful analysis while regional
newspapers offered both home-town information and the local perspective on
national issues. Clearly, journalism was an honorable profession with lots of
opportunity! What could go wrong?
Despite starry-eyed optimism, introversion guided me into a career with more upside — newspaper journalism. After Watergate, media were the good guys. What could go wrong?
Aside from the highlights of our actual visits – which I promise are upcoming! – what has fascinated me most about all this has been the agreement and participation of our 14-year old son and my wife, Glenda. I never would have expected them to become interested instigators and happy participants in this summer history tour. By her own proclamation, Glenda HATED history in high school, especially the rote memorization of names and dates often used as a crutch by history teachers who apparently resented their own career choices. And Eli’s interests are those of a typical 14-year old, which generally means nothing appeals more than motion on an electronic device screen. Yet, they are requesting the next podcast and suggesting future destinations like the nearbyJimmy Carter Library in Atlanta and the Little White House in Warm Springs, GA. Do I dare potentially incur their wrath by pointing out that we drove right past Grant’s Farm in St. Louis, originally a working property of US Grant before it became an animal refuge and tourist attraction operated by the beer-famous Busch family?
The final script for Kennedy’s inaugural address includes his personal edits, including the famous “Ask not” phrase. Kennedy’s presence in notes, words and video makes the JFK site much more than a museum.
I’m convinced that our first visit to theJFK Presidential Library and Museum launched our journey just as JFK’s leadership and challenge aimed our early rockets into space and to the moon. Kennedy’s presidency, and even more so, his assassination and funeral, was seared into my childhood memory. Still, with many history-based tour sites, experience quality for all but the most serious scholars is influenced greatly by multimedia exhibits and tour guides. Our JFK docent guide was a Kennedy groupie, and I mean that in the positive sense of the term. She could hardly contain her storytelling, verbally self-editing so she didn’t run over her allotted time. She expertly supplemented and personally curated the exhibits, suggesting favorite artifacts and areas deserving more attention.
But it was Kennedy himself – his notes, his words and the video presentations of his speeches – that made this much more than a museum collection. Kennedy mastered popular culture and television as a new political medium, and those images plus his stirring words bring the museum to life.
Our JFK docent was a Kennedy groupie, and I mean that in the positive sense of the term. She could hardly contain her storytelling and suggested favorite artifacts and areas deserving more attention, like this one from establishment of the Peace Corps.
Leaving the JFK museum, Glenda declared she wanted to visit other Presidential sites. Surprisingly, she expressed most interest in the Nixon Library, wondering how it handled the entire Watergate episode. But since Yorba Linda, CA, wasn’t on our 11-state, 4,569 car-miles summer itinerary, I suggested we might stop at Andrew Jackson’s Hermitage near Nashville as we returned to Georgia. Then, later in the summer, we might visit the Carter Library in Atlanta after we became reacquainted with our own home.
Fast forward a week, and we’re departing the Gateway Arch and Arch Park in St. Louis, heading for Chicago. Facing the flat farmland on I-55, we realized our oldest daughter, Nicole, had made this drive many times. So we called and inquired. Knowing about our visit to the JFK museum and our plans to visit the Jackson and Carter sites, she said, “Well, duh, you could stop in Springfield – home of Abraham Lincoln!” Feeling somewhat geographically and historically stupid at that moment, I set Google Maps first to the Lincoln Home Historic Site, then the Lincoln Museum and Library.
Lincoln is everywhere in Springfield, including a 31-foot traveling statue at the Lincoln Museum. My first impression: Why is Abraham Lincoln talking to former Speaker of the House John Boehner?
Whereas JFK accompanies you through the Boston museum, the sad, tired image of Honest Abe veritably haunts you at every turn in Springfield. He’s everywhere – in portraits, caricatures, Photoshopped-posters, souvenir centers, bronze statues, seriously played by actors and frivolously portrayed by impersonators. Oh, and let’s not forget – nor can you miss! – the 31-foot-tall Lincoln Returns statue on exhibit at the Lincoln Museum through September 2020. (Flashback: I saw this exhibit years ago in former Speaker of the House John Boehner’s home district, near the Old Courthouse in Troy, OH. I wondered to myself then, and again when seeing it in Springfield, “Why is there a statue of Abraham Lincoln talking to John Boehner?”)
Divergent positions regarding the Emancipation Proclamation literally are shouted as a lonely Lincoln gives it his consideration. The museum pulls you into a 19th century America that is splitting at its geopolitical boundaries.
Walking through exhibits on Lincoln’s upbringing, his early
life as a lawyer, his entry into politics then his time as president, Lincoln’s
words evoke your mental imagery, together pulling you into a 19th
century America that is splitting apart at its geopolitical boundaries. The divergent positions are presented
stunningly. Lincoln’s careful consideration of the Emancipation Proclamation is
represented in long hallway where Lincoln sits alone, the approach to him featuring
competing banners overhead and ghost-like figures in the walls that shout
literally and figuratively their positions.
Current times sneak into the museum, too. The late journalist and long-time host of Meet the Press, Tim Russert, helped develop an exhibit that presents and reports the 1860 campaign in a current-day advertising and reporting format.
The late journalist and long-time host of Meet the Press, Tim Russert, helped develop an exhibit that presents and reports the 1860 campaign in a current-day advertising and reporting format.
Leaving Lincoln behind and digesting many more episodes of Presidential while driving, we arrived six days later in Nashville for our visit to Andrew Jackson’s Hermitage. Here, the most historically accurate early presidential home is the backdrop for the Jackson story. Carefully protected by both sides during the Civil War, Jackson’s thrice-expanded mansion majestically towers above the rolling hills, fields and farmlands that once comprised a working plantation housing over 200 enslaved people. Trying to consider the complex and contradictory story of Jackson himself, I found myself often changing my mental perspective during the visit, attempting to best appreciate the history and emotion of The Hermitage home and grounds. What was it like for plantation owners, enslaved workers or traveling dignitaries to visit here?
Trying to consider the complex and contradictory story of Jackson himself, I found myself often changing my mental perspective during the visit, attempting to imagine the realities of plantation owners, enslaved people and visiting dignitaries.
Confusion, reevaluation and changing perspectives are apparently common experiences for those who consider, study or portray Jackson. Even the primary movie at The Hermitage fell victim to this complexity: a new movie introduced in 2017 employs biographers Steve Inskeep and Jon Meacham to provide broader perspective rather than simply telling a chronological story.
Confusion, reevaluation and changing perspectives are apparently common experiences for those who consider, study or portray Jackson. In today’s American, how do you best balance his military and leadership contributions with his slave-holding and Indian policy.
That brings me to the key learnings from our summer of
accidental Presidential exploration. First, though the events and lives are in
the past, how they are understood, presented and perceived continues to change
over time. Each generation and each individual adopts a slightly different
perspective. Sometime, the lenses of history sharpen the focus, but create more
complexity than clarity as we interpret past events through today’s
perspectives. That’s the case of Andrew Jackson. In other instances, understanding the depth of
historical challenges elevates even more the legendary status of great leaders
like Abraham Lincoln.
And second, never underestimate the power of a long summer
driving vacation to learn new things about even those closest to you.
Relying on the kindness of strangers, here’s the obligatory family photo in front of Lincoln’s adult home in Springfield. Along the journey, I learned to never underestimate the power of a long summer driving vacation to learn new things about those closest to you.Trivia Time: Seems there was a Stormy angle in the 1960 election, based on this cover from Newsweek magazine. If you know what the reference to Stormy K means, leave a note on the comment form.
Any doctor or fitness coach will tell you that regular
exercise is essential to long term health, and that some exercise is better
than none. At home, my weekly goal is 300 minutes of active exercise time,
which I track on my trusty Garmin VivoActive HR watch. That usually requires
some combination of trips to the gym, hiking in the surrounding hills, long
bike rides on a nearby trail and brisk walking.
But following an exercise routine while traveling can be a
major challenge. If you’re anything like me, you can use virtually any excuse
to remain in a comfy hotel bed and skip a workout while traveling:
My schedule’s too busy.
I forgot my exercise clothes.
The hotel gym doesn’t have the right equipment.
Well, you get the idea.
I can be a chronic excuse-maker on the road. And while some days I still
do force myself into a less-than-perfect gym to get in some elliptical,
treadmill or exercise bike time, I’ve found that brisk, high-speed walks in
local parks, on trails or city sidewalks are a great way to get exercise and
discover the places I travel. I’ve used
this approach around the corner and around the world to maintain an exercise
routine and find hidden treasures that often make up some of my favorite travel
memories and photos.
Safety First!
Before I go on, a few words of caution. If you’re not
familiar with an area, always check with local experts about safety and
security in the surrounding area. While there is no such thing as a “perfectly
safe” area, a quick question at a hotel desk or a (non-emergency!) call to the
local police can help keep you out of high-risk areas and unnecessary problems.
It’s a good idea to alert someone about
your plans, especially if you’re traveling alone. Do carry your cell phone in case of any
potential trouble, as you can use it to call for help or it can be used to
locate you in case you encounter some difficulty. In parks or on trails, stick to the marked
and traveled paths, be aware of your surroundings and situation, and trust your
safety instincts if you sense any discomfort or danger. By doing so, you can
often avoid trouble simply by turning around, altering your route, or staying
closer to other people.
My best secret for travel exercise: brisk, high-speed walks are great to get exercise and discover the places I travel, around the corner and around the world.
City Strolls
I love watching a major city shake off its overnight slumber
and feeling the energy level pick up around me. From Chicago to Singapore, Las
Vegas to London, Dubai to Denver and Tokyo to Toronto, there’s nothing like
feeling your own heart rate accelerate from a brisk walk while joggers run by,
traffic starts to quicken, and the aroma of coffee and baked goods wafts out
onto the street from diners and restaurants.
A good early-morning city walk requires some advanced
planning. Most city hotels will provide
route maps or tips for joggers that work equally well for walking. If those
aren’t available, I often rely on local tourist resources like walking tour
maps and shopping area shuttle routes as potential pathways. And where
possible, I try to identify a well-known walk-up coffee shop or diner where I
can end my walk and enjoy breakfast.
For example, in Chicago, early morning is a great time to walk the full length of the Magnificent Mile. The sidewalks are empty, and traffic is light, so it’s easy to maintain a good pace. Another favorite is to follow the route of the free trolley that connects the Magnificent Mile and Navy Pier, allowing for an uncrowded stroll along the pier and a great view of the city’s famous skyline. Or, Chicago’s extended River Walk and the Lakeshore Trail are great options, too. On any of these, I can route my journey to end at West Egg or Eggy’s Diner, two of my favorite downtown breakfast spots.
In Las Vegas, I’m often awake early because of my Eastern
Time zone orientation, so I’ll head out onto The Strip at sunrise to enjoy the
coolest weather of the day, all the marquees and lights that make the city
famous, plus some spectacular natural colors as the sun peaks out from behind
the mountain to the east.
A walk along the Singapore River offered great views of the Marina Bay Sands Resort.
In Singapore, my hotel provided a walking map that guided me out to the Singapore River Walk for some early and uncrowded speed walking plus great riverfront views of the Merlion and the Marina Sands resort. Similarly, in Dubai, waking early after my 18-hour journey, the friendly hotel staff provided a hand-drawn route that guided me through a local neighborhood and into a produce market, and recommended I wait to depart at the end of the dawn prayer call to respect the sacred ritual. If you prefer not to rely on the recommendations of an individual, you can always look up potential routes in advance, like these others in Dubai.
Small Town Walks
During my career in the restaurant equipment business, many
of our factories and operating locations were in smaller towns where
entrepreneurial founders established local businesses later acquired by our
global company. Visiting often meant staying in local motel and inns, the most
memorable of which were in small English, Swiss, German and Italian towns. Since
we were in the restaurant business, our hosts always made it a point to arrange
exquisite dinners by renowned chefs who used our various kitchen equipment. A few nights of that kind of entertainment
made exercise a real necessity, but few of the inns offered gyms. Thus, morning
walks were necessary to shake off the effects of the prior night and minimize
the inevitable weight gain of these long trips.
A few nights of exquisite dinners prepared by renowned chefs made exercise a real necessity to shake the effects of the prior night and minimize the inevitable weight gain.
One of my traveling colleagues was an avid runner with the
same morning schedule as me, so we often met in the lobby to compare route
notes before departure. We planned 30 to 45-minute outings, then ventured on
our separate routes to meet later for breakfast and coffee. Herborn, Murnau and
Eglfing, Germany, were among our favorite explorations.
Natural Treasures
In the US when traveling by car and away from major cities, we often enjoy an easy escape from the hotel directly to local trails, small parks or more well-known areas for our morning walks. Driving to Ft. Lauderdale recently for a Caribbean cruise, we consulted Google Maps from our hotel room, then hopped in the car early on cruise departure day for an hour-long exploration of Turkey Creek Sanctuary. We visited on a Sunday morning, when the sun was burning off the early fog. The boardwalk made walking easy, and the many labeled points helped us see some natural attractions we likely would have missed. Our highlight was the walk along the creek, gazing at the natural beauty and looking for wildlife. While other visitors reported seeing a manatee, we saw squirrels, herons and raccoons. We followed the sandy trails through the palmetto bushes and oak forest, and the boardwalk trails over a native swamp and alongside the creek. The morning calls of native birds musically accompanied our fast-paced footsteps, turning to a regular drumbeat on the plank boardwalk. Before we left, we had trekked nearly 3 miles and enjoyed some of the Old Florida natural beauty that is becoming increasingly rare.
Walking the boardwalk made it easy to see the natural beauty of Old Florida. We spotted squirrels, herons and raccoons along the way.
Last summer in Bend, OR, we left the car in the hotel parking lot and walked along theDeschutes River Trail between the Old Mill District and the Bend Whitewater Park. Later in the day, the trail and the river would become crowded with other tourists and a smattering of locals watching the paddlers and tubers ride the current to a nearby take-out point. But shortly after dawn, we pulled on our light jackets for a brisk walk in the fresh, cool morning air, enjoying cloudless blue skies, wonderful views of the nearby mountain ranges, and the occasional sound of paddles slapping the river surface as rowers glided by.
Later, on the same trip, we spent the night beachside at the Inn at Cape Kiwanda in Pacific City. Waking early, we walked to the beach, then removed our shoes for a two-plus mile ocean front walk at the water’s edge of the the cool Pacific waves, just south of the Cape Kiwanda State Natural Area.
In Pacific City, OR, we awoke early, walked to the beach, then removed our shoes for a two-plus mile ocean front walk at the water’s edge of the the cool Pacific waves.
Objects in Motion
Many of these travel walks were fast-stepping jaunts, where
I tried to maintain a 15-minute-mile pace for the entire walk – excluding the
inevitable stops for touristy gawking and photographs. That was especially true
when I was a frequent and familiar visitor to a location. But many of them were
more leisurely strolls, which was still better than no exercise or movement at
all during my travels. I’m a firm supporter of Sir Issac Newton’s first law of
motion: an object at rest stays at rest and an object in motion stays in
motion. And that’s not just a suggestion or a good idea – it’s a LAW of physics!
Thus, whenever practical, whether at home or traveling, I plan to stay in motion – moving forward with the same speed for as long as possible.
On these travel walks, I tried to maintain a 15-minute-mile pace – excluding the inevitable stops for touristy gawking and photographs. But many were more leisurely strolls, which was still better than no exercise or movement at all.
More Hiking and Walking
If you enjoyed this post, you might also enjoy these about other hiking and walking adventures:
Besides a bit of wisdom and big savings on men’s hair products, I’ve enjoyed few benefits of growing older. But last year, I found a great one, and just in the nick of time to save some money on our then-upcoming vacation: seniors 62 and older can purchase a lifetime pass to National Parks for only $80 and enjoy admission to any of our national parks and many other federal lands without an admission fee.
In the spirit of full transparency, I didn’t qualify at the time for the pass because I’m was still too young. But, my wife qualified, and before and until she read that prior sentence, we generally traveled together in the same vehicle. That’s how the National Park Pass works: the pass owner and accompanying passengers in a single, private, non-commercial vehicle are admitted to national parks and federal lands with no admission fee.
We discovered this benefit just in time to gain some extra savings, but a bit too late to get the best possible bargain.
We discovered and took advantage of this benefit just in time to gain some extra savings, and a bit too late to get the best possible bargain. Until 2017, the senior life time pass has been just $10, and increased to $80 for a lifetime pass in 2017. (For the record, my wife wasn’t quite old enough to get the really cheap lifetime pass, but there’s no use complaining about that nuance.)
Bald eagles abound in the National Parks of Alaska. We’ve also seen them in parks in the “Lower 48” thanks to conservation and protection laws.
For our 2018 summer vacation, we visited Denali National Park in Alaska, Crater Lake National Park in Oregon, and Mount Rainier and Olympic National Parks in Washington. Remembering to pack the pass card and taking it with us at all of those locations, we recovered the cost of my wife’s purchase and save some additional money. (And she’ll love that because it’s like shopping sale prices with additional coupons where she always saves, saves, saves!)
Purchasing my wife’s senior national park pass was like shopping sales prices with additional coupons, where she always saves, saves, saves!
By the way, if you’re too young to get a senior lifetime pass, the National Park Service offers a variety of different passes. For example, there’s an annual pass for $80. It works the same way as the senior pass in allowing the pass owner and accompanying passengers in a single car admission into the park. There’s a free lifetime pass for permanently disabled U.S. citizens. There’s a fourth grade pass, a volunteer pass, and an access pass, too. It’s best to check out the link to explore all your options.
How To Get a National Park Pass
There are two ways to get a park pass. If you’re visiting an admission-charging park, you generally can buy the pass at the park admission office. In some parks where admission is charged at an entry point and not at a main visitor center, you may need to pay the daily entry fee first. If so, you generally can go to the visitor center and they will apply the original fee towards your pass purchase. The upside to buying at a park is you’re already there. The downside is lines can be long since park passes most often are sold at the same locations as general admission and other attraction tickets. And, not all national parks sell the lifetime passes.
Of the 417 US National Parks, only 118 charge admission, including Crater Lake in Oregon. Whenever we travel — like to Alaska, Oregon and Washington in 2018 and an upcoming trip to Maine to visit Acadia National Park — we carry our park pass with us.
You also can buy national park passes online, but there are several caveats. First, there’s a separate process for an annual pass and a senior pass. Second, because of high demand, senior pass sales were outsourced to a third-party website It’s a longer process slowed even more by high demand AND there is no way to expedite your order. So if you have a trip coming up and need the pass before departure, be sure to allow lots of time. (We’re told that 6 to 8 weeks is not unusual!) And, it’s $90 because of an additional $10 shipping charge. Here’s the link to the standard park pass purchase page.
Fortunately we had a debit and credit card, because the US Government didn’t accept cash.
Your National Park pass also gains admittance to national forests, national recreation areas, and most Army Corp of Engineer lands that require admittance. Locally, we’ve used our pass in lieu of parking fees at Cooper’s Furnace, Allatoona Dam and other Corp of Engineers locations along Lake Allatoona, multiple locations at the Chattahoochee national recreation area, and Anna Ruby Falls in the Chattahoochee National Forest.
For us, buying was a two-stop process. We were hiking at Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield and inquired about a senior pass purchase there. The friendly rangers informed us they weren’t sold at KeMo because there is no admission fee at the park. He directed us instead to the US Army Corps of Engineers office at the Allatoona Dam in nearby Acworth, and provided us with the phone number so we could call in advance. He said that while the Corps office sold the passes, they sometimes ran out of them so calling first was a good idea. Thus, on a subsequent hiking visit to that location, my wife was able to purchase her senior pass. And if you’re visiting the the Corps location, bring a debit or credit card, as the US government didn’t accept cash at this location.
Free Park Admissions
Of the 417 US National Parks, only 118 charge admission. Others are free to visit. But even when admission is free, you’ll often want to pay for specific activities that require a ticket from concessionaires. For example, for our planned Denali trip, there was a park admission fee, plus separate tickets for any of the guided bus tours and similar activities.
One more bargain note: the National Park Service generally waives admission to all parks on four days each year:
Martin Luther King, Jr. Day in January
The first day of National Parks Week in April
Public Lands Day in September
Veterans Day in November
National Parks Week
The National Parks Service is joining the National Parks Foundation — the official charity of the US National Parks — in celebration National Parks Week. Generally, this occurs the third week of April each year. Throughout the US, parks will offer special visitor and education programs to commemorate the week. While activities vary at all parks, most will observe the following:
Flying into Denver usually means I’m on the way to ski
slopes or mountain resorts, so I’m not apt to hang around the airport. But when
a recent meeting at the Westin Hotel attached to the terminal ended
substantially early, I faced two choices before my evening flight: occupy an
uncomfortable terminal seat or do some exploring.
To those who routinely endure the inconveniences of major construction at DIA, there’s certainly no reason to smile about the many obstacles between the terminal entrance and wheels-up.
Choosing the latter, I wandered through DIA for nearly three
hours, checking out the modernization project underway, other changes made over
the years and some interesting activities that kept me engaged and helped me
pass the time without suffering from airport seat soreness.
My previous most recent trip through DIA had been more than
5 years ago, and it was one of those typical pass-throughs where my task was to
minimize airport time. We arrived after midnight, following an eight-hour delay
involving violent weather systems, unplanned rerouting, and a new Delta crew
flying from Atlanta to Albuquerque to join our flight as required by FAA
workday rules. On the way back out, following a wonderful mountain vacation, we
stayed at an airport hotel, rode the early morning shuttle and flew out on the
first flight back to Atlanta.
For those who enjoy a good laugh, I give high marks to DIA for its light-hearted and engaging DenFiles.com communication campaign about the construction project.
Before getting into my exploration stories, some fast facts
about DIA. First, the airport was constructed in 1995 approximately 25 miles
from the city center. But with road construction, a light rail system and urban
sprawl, the city continues to creep closer to the airport. Second, as a hub for United and Frontier, and
a major operational location for Southwest, DIA has the second-largest domestic
flight network in the US. Thus, it should come as no surprise that after nearly
25 years, the airport is undergoing some major renovations. How DIA shares
information about the renovations is surprising and fun, and the start of my
exploration stories.
Secret Tunnels, Free
Masons and Aliens
Generally, the words airport construction and fun would NEVER be used together. And to those who routinely endure the inconveniences of major construction at DIA, there’s certainly no reason to smile about the many obstacles between the terminal entrance and wheels-up. But for those of us who aren’t as time constrained and enjoy a good laugh, I give high marks to DIA for its light-hearted and engaging DenFiles.com communication campaign about the construction project.
Whether it’s aliens, lizard people, the New World Order, the Illuminati or some other mystery, speculation and conspiracy theories abound about DIA.
Regardless of your thoughts about conspiracy theories or alternate facts, do check out the construction information pages before your departure or arrival. Locals report that long security lines, escalator bottlenecks, facility relocations and closures, and new pathways all require more time for navigation. TSA offers a near-real-time check on security lines, but remember, that’s NOT your only obstacle during construction.
Based on experience, I bypassed the longer lines at the North checkpoint, meandering around to find the faster-moving South area. But, locals recommend you check the near-real-time TSA site to get information long before you head out to DIA.
Amusing Antics to Pass the Time
Walking across from the Westin and light rail station into
the main terminal, I bypassed the generally-longer lines at the South security
points and meandered around to the North entry, where I had no wait. From there, it was down the narrow escalators
and on to the crowded train for the ride out to Concourses A, B and C. I was
flying out of Concourse C, but for my explorations, I took them in alphabetical
and train-stop order, and here were the highlights:
Wildlife Watching. The bridge from the main terminal to Concourse A offers the best wildlife viewing in the airport – excluding, perhaps, an unexpected sighting of over-inebriated and uninhibited folks partying too hard in an airport lounge. While standing in full view for less than five minutes, I spotted a flamingo, woodpecker, blue jay and polar bear. Of course, these were all wildlife murals adorning the tails of Frontier Airlines’ Airbus fleet. If you have younger children or grandchildren traveling with you, grab a picnic from Concourse A and enjoy the scenery from a (comfortable?) bench. It’s much less crowded than the gate areas, and the kids will enjoy the animals and airplane movement. And since DIA is a Frontier hub, chances are you’ll see lots of different animals if you stay awhile. Each plane in the Frontier fleet has an animal mural. You can even find the names of the animals if you have internet connection while watching.
If you have younger children or grandchildren traveling with you, grab a picnic from Concourse A and enjoy wildlife watching at the air bridge between Concourse A and the Main Terminal. Kids will enjoy the animals and airplane movement.
Fossil Hunt. Another kid-friendly favorite, Concourse B features faux-fossils that reflect Colorado’s geology, geography and natural history. While nothing excites kids like finding unexpected dinosaur skeletons, the floor-art also features native American symbols and names of prominent Colorado areas. Artists Carolyn Braaksma and Mark Villareal used bronze embeds to locate the castings into the terrazzo floor. One tip: this adventure is best enjoyed between the busiest arrival and departure flight cycles, and is easiest at the linear center of the concourse between gates B21-B23 and B29-B31. Keeping to the center will help keep curious youngsters away from the trampling feet of hurried throngs racing for the next flight.
Another fun kid activity at DIA: Hunting for fossils in the tile in Concourse. But keep the kids toward the middle of the Concourse to avoid being trampled by hurrying travelers.
Airport Art. Denver ranks as the best US airport for artwork according to USA Today and (most recently) among the best by Travel and Leisure magazine. With much of the main terminal art stored away during construction, the best place to enjoy DIA’s extensive, wacky and controversial art is in the Concourse areas. What appears to be an ill-fated mine train or an incomplete roller coaster occupies the center point of Concourse A. The work is entitled Dual Meridian and attempts to link past and future transportation modes in one conceptual space. To me, it looks more like the aftermath of a train wreck inside an airport – and it’s those types of observations that have long made DIA’s art controversial. Further to that point, the temple-like facade at the C Concourse center point isn’t even listed among the artwork on DIA’s official artwork web page, further fueling the speculation that there is an Illuminati temple or New World Order headquarters hidden away there. Conscious of the controversies and with an eye toward appealing to (or appeasing!) the masses, city officials and airport management promised kinder, gentler, and friendlier artwork recently, to add “a bit of joy and serenity to the traveling experience.”
DIA consistently ranks as one of the world’s most beautiful airports, thanks in part to the extensive art collection. Dual Meridian attempts to link past and future transportation modes in one space. To me, it looks like a train wreck inside an airport.
Just B Walking
Travel is one of life’s great conundrums, requiring long periods of sitting still while simultaneously moving over great distances. Plus there’s all that wait time for departures, connections, baggage claim and ground transportation. The last thing on my mind during departure waits or connection layovers is more sitting, so you’ll always find me looking for a walking place to get the blood circulating and muscles stretched.
To avoid the inevitable long periods of sitting that go with travel, take a stroll around Concourse B. I measured one full lap at approximately 1.2 miles, and 18-minute walk that for me burned more than 250 calories.
Concourse B walking offers the best option once past security, as it’s the longest terminal. According to my trusty Garmin Vivoactive HR sports watch, a lap around Concourse B measures 1.27 miles and took me about 24 minutes including a short stop or two for blog pictures. Excluding those photo pauses, that’s approximately 18 minutes of actual walking time and 292 calories of effort as I dodged other travelers.
Eat, Drink or Be Hurried
If you’re in a hurry, DIA offers the usual range of fast food, kiosks and carts for grabbing a quick bite on the run. But if you have the time and taste for a more elevated dining experience, a higher-level of food is easy to find on the second level of Concourses A, B and C. Awaiting there is a broader range of sit-down service dining outlets, including everything from American classics to steak to Southwestern fare and more. For drinks, I like Lounge 5280 located on the upper level of B Concourse at the centerpoint. Elway’s restaurant also is located here, and generally is packed with business people either enjoying a meal or catching up over fabulous martinis at the full bar. If you want to plan ahead, theDIA website offers a searchable listing of all your options.
Elways (top) and Lounge 5280 (lower) offer elevated drinking and dining choices rather than the usual fast-food outlets and kiosks.
What About the Lizard People?
Officially, they are known as “Reptoids,” and unofficially
they lurk in the dark recesses of the tunnels beneath the airport which were
built as (pick your favorite answer):
Part of a Masonic Temple
Headquarters for the New World Order
Apocalyptic bomb shelters for the rich and elite
Labor and immigration camps
A failed automated baggage system
All of the above
None of the above.
A jet is ready to whisk the powerful and elite to exclusive shelters designed to survive the apocalypse. Or an Illuminati Temple or headquarters of The New World Order lies below.
An intrepid Denver reporter caught the Reptoids on camera during a debunking report-gone-wrong, and that picture has since fueled additional speculation. Since then, some have baggage handlers, ticket agents and passengers have enjoyed some laughs by donning lizard masks.
I didn’t have the connections to inspect the baggage tunnels for lizard people, nor did I see them while riding the train. But that doesn’t mean they don’t exist!
For my part, I didn’t see any Reptoids, but that doesn’t
mean they don’t exist! And if they do, I certainly don’t want to appear on
their “persona-non-grata” list in these days when we have more than enough
other distractions and divisions.
More Airport Bites
We like to have fun with our airport stories. If you enjoyed this one, check out our others, now including ATL, DAY, DEN, MDW, MSY and STL. Since our blog didn’t start until retirement, we missed the original opportunity to do more locations, but we’re committed posting additional stories as travels permit.
A statue of Colorado native Jack Swigert stands in the transportation area of Concourse B. Swigert was a substitute astronaut on the ill-fated Apollo 13 mission, then was removed from his assigned role to command an American-Russian test project. Later in life, he was elected to Congress from Colorado, but died seven days before he was to start his term.
I like long distance bike rides. But when I ride, I hate
sharing the road with automobiles and their drivers who ignore painted “bike
lanes,” resent “Share the Road” signs, and generally consider cyclists as major
traffic nuisances. It’s even worse when irritated or mean-spirited drivers use
bikers as targets of intimidation or distracted drivers maim or kill bikers out
of carelessness.
When I suit up and clip in for rides, it’s usually on a paved trail. The Silver Comet Trail in Cobb County is a great choice, with long, straight stretches, few road crossings, and no rude drivers crowding or intimidating riders.
Thus, when I suit up and clip in for my favorite outings,
it’s usually on a paved trail, planning for hours of head-down, butt-numbing, mind-clearing
constant pedaling, with one eye on the trail and the other monitoring distance,
cadence, speed and heart zone on my fitness devices. Actual mileage may vary on opportunity, time,
weather conditions, physical capabilities and other factors. Generally, my
rides range from 20 to 80 miles. My longest day: 101 miles, including an unplanned and unwise
lunch of beer and barbeque in a biker – read, motorcycle, not bicycle – bar
outside of Cincinnati. But that’s
another story about how bikers of all types get along and generally agree on
their dislike of cars and trucks!
Most of my riding is based on my home location. In the 1990s, that was near Dayton, OH, birthplace of the Wright Brothers who made aviation history from their bicycle business. My favorite trails there included the Great Miami River Trail running north/south through Dayton, the Creekside Connector Trail running east/west to Xenia, and the Little Miami Scenic Trail toward Cincinnati. In the 2000s, my riding was near Tampa, FL, where the Pinellas Trail followed the beaches and the newer Suncoast Trail was built further inland. Now living near Acworth, my favorite trails include the Silver Comet Trail and combining portions of the Noonday Creek and Mountain-to-River trails. (See our blog post about short “fun rides” on these Cobb County Trails.)
Silver Comet Trail
Let’s get this out of the way: I have a dream – but not yet a goal – of riding the combined Silver Comet and Chief Ladiga Trails, covering the 90+ miles in one day. I made the aforementioned 101-mile Ohio ride while still in my 40s, thus covering 95 miles in my early 60s isn’t unreasonable – with the right training, good health and favorable weather.
I have a dream – but not yet a goal – of riding the combined Silver Comet and Chief Ladiga Trails, covering the 90+ miles in one day. But that’s on another day following the right training, and counting on good health and favorable weather.
On my previous Silver Comet rides, I had started in Powder Springs and ridden north, over the spectacular 750-foot Pumpkinvine Trestle. From my bike seat and handlebar view, the specific locations and direction of travel didn’t matter on any of these rides. My plan and execution were simple: clip in, look straight ahead, pedal consistently and ignore the complaints of my leg and back muscles. That has always been my recipe for successful riding. But at 62, despite 5,000+ miles of actual outdoor and indoor training at the West Cobb YMCA, my average speeds have declined by approximately 2 mph. I’m content to blame that on getting accustomed to my newer dual sport bike and my own failure to replace the original hybrid trail tires with a more road friendly style. (OK, you’re right! Whether 62 or 26, it’s NEVER the guy’s fault, and ALWAYS the equipment!)
I kicked off my 2019 Silver Comet rides with a 42-miler on a
cold January day when the high temperature failed to equal my riding distance.
Since I’ve always been a fair-weather rider, I had no idea how to dress for
success. The best I could do was emulate my snow skiing strategy, layering up
with water-wicking fabrics and covering as much exposed skin as possible. The
weakness of my plan was my feet, as I learned that even with thick wool socks,
my summer-weight, Florida-purchased shoes didn’t protect my feet sufficiently.
(Again, with the equipment!)
Starting at theTara Drummond trailhead in Paulding Country, I traveled south to Mile 0, and returned with enough Cajun “lagniappe” to record an even 42 miles. One of many along my path, the Drummond trailhead offered a small parking lot and nice restroom facilities.
Starting this time at the Tara Drummond trailhead in Paulding Country, I traveled south to Mile 0, and returned with enough Cajun “lagniappe” to record an even 42 miles. Why 42? Well, it’s nearly half of the combined Silver Comet/Chief Ladiga length, and, according to the Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy, also the answer to the ultimate question of life, the universe and everything.
Head Down, Eyes Forward
For solo rides, I don’t need lots of scenery or stops. And
while there may have been scenery aplenty along my 20+ mile Southern sojourn, most
of the time my head was down and my thoughts focused on achieving my target
pedal rpm in spite of a glitchy computer (EQUIPMENT, WHY DO YOU HATE ME?)
A thick stand of bamboo and branches blown from the tree canopy caused a childhood flash back to a creepy scene in The Wizard of Oz. I began to wonder if the Wicked Witch was releasing the flying monkeys to track my trail travels.
Still, several scenic points did capture my attention. Near
Metromont Road in Hiram, a thick stand of bamboo shaded the road and branches
blown from the tree canopy on the other side littered the trail. The combination
caused a childhood flash back to a creepy scene in The Wizard of Oz, and I
began to wonder if the Wicked Witch was releasing the flying monkeys to track
my trail travels.
On the trestle bridge over Nickajack Creek, I snapped a few photos of the mini-canyon while basking in the radiant heat at the center of the trestle. That also prompted me to make a note for a return soon by car or bike to visit the historic covered bridge at Heritage Park nearby.
Riding high over Nickajack Creek, I paused on the trestle bridge to take in the scenery, munch down a power bar and adjust my coat. As the sun peaked down through the trees surrounding the creek’s mini-canyon, I snapped a few photos while basking in the radiant heat at the center of the trestle. That also prompted me to make a note for a return soon by car or bike to visit the historic covered bridge at Heritage Park nearby.
As icicles adorned the exposed rock and reflected the morning sun, I commemorated my first-ever winter ride with a photo to tease my Minnesota riding friends and confirm for my Florida friends that I had lost my mind.
Passing through several hill cuts where icicles adorned the exposed
rock and reflected the morning sun, I commemorated my first-ever winter ride
with a photo to tease my Minnesota riding friends and confirm for my Florida
friends that I had lost my mind.
I paused, too, at the Mile 0 sign – no, not the famous one on Highway 1 in Key West, but at the Mavel Road Trailhead in Smyrna where the trail officially starts, and the Silver Comet Connector continues into Vinings. That also was my turnaround point to head back North after a snack and stretch.
The Mile 0 sign – no, not the famous and warmer one on Highway 1 in Key West, but at the Mavel Road Trailhead in Smyrna where the trail officially starts, and the Silver Comet Connector continues into Vinings.
Thanks and Caution
On the return trip, I gave thanks to the railroad and bike gods that there was nary a curve or steep hill to be found on this rail trail, and preservation of trestles and construction of overpasses made for a largely unimpeded ride home. I counted only seven road crossings over the 20-mile return, including some which were used only for lightly-trafficked commercial and public utilities work areas. Aside from the few road crossings, all of which were traffic-light controlled, not once along the 42-mile round trip was I bothered by a car, minivan, SUV, truck, tractor trailer or other motor vehicle.
A welcome rest stop at Mile 0, with one of the rest room facilities that help alleviate the Tour de France’s problematic “arrêt biologique.”
Many small parks, rest areas, and bathroom facilities are
located along the way and at trailheads, alleviating the Tour de France’s problematic
situation of the “au natural” or “arrêt biologique.”
Unfortunately, some portions of the Silver Comet trail have a
history of crime, so always be aware if you’re traveling alone. In some areas, video
cameras are used for monitoring trail activity, but awareness and avoidance are
always better than a fast response.
Looking Ahead
I plan to return to the Silver Comet trail several times in
2019, As I write this, I’m having trail-discovery envy as my niece and a camera
crew head out near the Coot’s Lake trailhead for a photo shoot on the trail to
introduce a new carbon fiber bike that her company markets on Amazon. It’s highly likely that my annual “ride-my-age-before-my-birthday”
outing – which now, by default, is also a metric century ride! — will take
place on the Silver Comet Trail. And each cold or rainy day when I ride a
stationary bike at the YMCA, I remind myself that the boredom of indoor riding
is essential prep for the day when I tackle the combined Silver Comet and Chief
Ladiga trails – which now sounds more like a goal than a dream.
Why 42? According to the Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy, it’s the answer to the ultimate question of life, the universe and everything.
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