In today’s new reality, Americans are more interested than ever in driving trips. Driving renews that sense of freedom and personal control, while enabling exploration and discovery not possible on packaged trips or other modes of transportation.
Among our all-time most-memorable driving trips: the Pacific Coast Highway in Oregon. While we’re neither saying we saw all or the best of the coast on our two day drive, it’s easy to say that we enjoyed every mile and minute of the drive and our stops along the way.
Following are some of our favorite highlights of a one-day drive which started one early morning in Eugene, and finished at sunset at Cape Kiwanda.
After an early-morning departure from Eugene, we started our coastal day on the banks of the Siuslaw River in Florence at River Roasters Coffee. Our family selections of lattes and hot chocolates warmed our hands before the coastal drive warmed our hearts. The patio at River Roasters offered a good view of the historic 1936 drawbridge, one of many ornate arched bridges along the PCH built by the WPA.
River Roasters is located in a former automobile repair and outboard motor shop. The exterior retains signage from the past, and the interior retains the nautical and outdoor theme. Tucked away in the restroom, we found this antique Evinrude outboard motor and gas tank set, along with what appeared to be a propeller from an airplane or airboat. We headed South from Florence to the Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area. We hiked through the coastal forest, down to the dunes, and out to the shore. After walking along the beach, we took the return route over the dunes, fighting to keep our feet while laughing and sliding in the loose sand. Warning: walking in loose sand is very tiring, especially when climbing, so the dune route is not recommended for those with limitations or different abilities.Through the forest, down the dunes, and past the sea grass, we finally found the Pacific Ocean and some of its inhabitants. The spray from the roaring waves coupled with the cool June day limited our beach time here.After enjoying nature, it was time for some man-made, motor-powered fun. We let our 14-year-old sun choose the tour vehicle, thus piled into this sand rail dune buggy for an escorted tour with a professional driver. I landed the front seat — not by choice but by default after our son took the back and insisted his mom join him. Occasionally, I could hear him laughing over the sounds of the motor and his mom’s screams as we literally flew off the top of some dunes at speeds of 70 mph.We stopped at the Mo’s location on the docks of the Siuslaw River to warm ourselves again, this time with some of their famous chowder. While we came for the chowder, we also enjoyed some of their lunchtime seafood specials, all while watching the river flow by on its way to the Pacific.Next stop was the Haceta Head Lighthouse, approximately 20 minutes north of Florence. With lots of scenic overlooks, we just stopped the car to gaze at the natural splendor of the ocean, rocks, coastline and forest. With limited time, we chose not to visit the small lighthouse and keeper’s house, which are open to the public an operated by a non-profit organization. Nor did we stop at the Sea Lion Caves, a popular tourist attraction for families located on the drive from Florence.A few miles north of Haceta Head Lighthouse, don’t miss the natural wonders in the Cape Perpetua Scenic Area. Short walking trails lead to incredible views. A small parking lot at the Visitor’s Center is the best place to start.Unfortunately for us, the tidal gods weren’t cooperating with our vacation timetable. We missed the most spectacular near-high-tide views at Thor’s Well, where crashing waves are forced through a seaside cavern before exploding upward through the collapsed ceiling and shooting high above the surrounding volcanic rock. We still enjoyed scampering over the rocks in search of pictures, while listening to the awesome beat of the waves crashing into the rocks. Word of warning from experience: those rocks are slippery!Continuing with natural scenery and crashing waves, we stopped near Seal Rock for more photography. Frankly, there are enough seals on the Oregon coast that almost any rock could be so named. This was near the small town of Seal Rock, at Seal Rock State Park. Having lost track of time in our meandering, we stopped in Newport for some dock-side dining. First, we walked the open areas of the docks, watched seals swim near the boats, and watched a few fisherman preparing for the next day’s work. Another of the WPA arched bridges provided a dramatic backdrop. We dined at Local Oceans Seafood, noted for purchasing all its seafood directly from local fishermen and transforming them into haute cuisine. We enjoyed watching the preparation in the open kitchen as well as the incredible flavors of the dishes.Around 8 pm, we finally reached our only planned stop of the day: The Inn at Cape Kiwanda. After stashing our stuff in our comfortably-appointed room, we headed out for a walk on the beach. There, we watched local Pacific City doreymen run their historic boats up on the beach to deposit tourist who had paid for the experience. Like beaches everywhere, you will encounter the usual and unusual. A gentle wind helped this guy create giant bubbles that gently lifted off his wands and loated for short distances on the ocean breeze, before popping to the squealing delight of kids from the nearby resort.Evening winds pushed up waves large enough to attract local surfers to try their skills.Oregon’s coast is littered with these haystack rocks, giant lava formations eroded and shaped by the currents and waves. This one is just off the coast at Cape Kiwanda. One of the most famous is just up the highway near Ocean City, which visited on Day Two of our drive.For a closer view, the Inn at Cape Kiwanda has tripod-mounted binoculars for checking out the nearby haystack rock.After a good night’s rest, we decided to start the next day with a mid-morning horseback ride on the beach. Nearby Green Acres Beach and Trail Rides offered a reasonably-priced, one-hour ride that included sand dunes and the beach.
Man Without a Plan
Frankly, we did this drive without a specific plan, other than a start and end point. We did a small bit of research in advance, just enough to jot down a few notes about Thor’s Well, Haceta Head and our planned stopping point at Cape Kiwanda. Virtually everything else was left to exploration, discovery and spontaneous decisions. Did we see and enjoy all the best site? Who knows. But we thoroughly enjoyed this free-form drive.
Inquisitive traveler -- 33 countries, 48 states. Sometimes cyclist, occasional hiker, over-experienced diner. Cajun by birth, Parrothead by choice, Baby Boomer by age, Southerner by the grace of God. Semi-retired career marketeer, with a career serving the foodservice and food retail industries. Sharing experiences is an avocation.
