In Louisiana, politicsĀ is both art form and entertainment, seasoned with a generous helping of colorful figures, banana republic methods, and demagoguery.
With the divisive politics, angry rhetoric and political personalities in the US today, it seemed fitting during a recent Louisiana tripĀ to take a brief political tour of the US in the 1930s by visiting downtown Baton Rouge and the government landmarks of the city.
Once and again a sleepy university and state capital town located on the Mississippi River, Baton Rouge found itself at the center of US populist movement in the 1930s thanks to Louisiana governor Huey Long. Ā As a candidate and governor, Long proposed expansive education and public works programs, all financed with borrowed money. His populist message propelled him to national attention, and after four years as governor, he was elected to the US Senate. Long originally supported President Franklin Roosevelt and his New Deal. Longās support faded quickly, and by 1935, he had announced his candidacy for president, along with his āShare the Wealthā plan and defining motto, āEvery Man a King.ā A ruthless politician and fiery orator often propelled by personal experiences, Long was a fierce opponent to large companies, often calling for them to be broken apart to limit their influence and power. Among his favorite corporate targets were Standard Oil Company (the predecessor to Exxon), and US business titans JD Rockefeller and JP Morgan.
Our landmark tour focused on the heart of 1930s Baton Rouge:Ā The Old State Capital, the Mississippi River and old Baton Rouge Train Station, historic Third Street, and the New State Capital Building.
The āOldā State Capitol
Described in original design papers by architect James Daikin as āāCastellated Gothic,ā the building intentionally was designed not to resemble the Greek and Roman architectural style of most large public works projects of the time.Ā Twin octagonal towers tower over the front of the structure and face the Mississippi River, and the entire roof line is notched in the style of European medieval castles.
Mark Twain once referred to the building as āa little sham castleā on the Mississippi River, and wished in his book, Life on the Mississippi, that authorities would have ālet dynamite finish what a charitable fire began.ā
Regardless, the Old State Capitol ā often called the Castle on the River — was restored after the Civil War and most recently in the 1990s, and today stands overlooking the Mississippi River from its high bluff in Baton Rouge.
Inside, a towering stained-glass vault dominates the atrium, sending multi-colored light down to the floors below and highlighting the cast iron spiral staircase at the center of the building. A single cast-iron support rises from floor to the ceiling, supporting the dome structure.
Today, the building houses an impressive Museum of Political History, mostly focused on Huey Longās rise to power in Louisiana and the national political scene. Growing up in Louisiana with French-speaking grandparents, I also enjoyed the temporary exhibit focused on the work of CODOFIL (Council on Development of French In Louisiana) to expand French-speaking in the state. Most notable was a single studentās desk, facing a blackboard, on which was written 10+ times, āI will not speak French in school.ā It was a vivid reminder that my parents and grandparents often spoke French among their generation (especially when they wanted to keep things from us) but refused to teach our generation any Cajun French.
In the extensive exhibit dedicated to Huey Long, we listened to his famous ābarbeque speech,ā where he uses the analogy of an outdoor barbeque to ferociously attack John Rockefeller and JP Morgan, alleging that they take an unfair share of wealth while poor people remain hungry and unfed. To get a sense of Longās populist appeal, check out this YouTube video clip of that speech.
Unfortunately, the public is no longer allowed to climb to the top of the front towers overlooking the Mississippi River and downtown Baton Rouge.Ā When attending LSU in the late 1970s, I climbed the stairs to the towers and spent an afternoon on the rooftop taking photos for my photojournalism class.
We spent just over an hour at this site, and enjoyed the free audio tour available at the Welcome Desk. Upon leaving, we inspected the cast iron fence which surrounds the grounds.
The āNewā State Capitol
Where other than Louisiana, with its heavily Euro-and-African centric colonial history, would a building constructed in the 1930s still be labelled as the ānewā anything? But ask any local about the location or history of the State Capitol building, and I guarantee the word ānewā will be used multiple times in the answer.
To get the votes needed, LongĀ strategically placed recalcitrant legislators directly under the plethora of leaks in the old capitolās roof — the Louisiana political version of waterboarding.
During his infrastructure expansion and building spree as governor, Huey Long lobbied the State Legislature to replace the Castle with a new 450-foot skyscraper. Legend has it that after multiple failed attempts, Long gained approval by calling for a vote during a heavy thunderstorm. He strategically placed recalcitrant legislators directly under the plethora of leaks in the old capitolās roof, finally earning their support by use of this primitive form of waterboarding.
Oddly, this towering achievement also became the ultimate location of Longās demise.Ā Long was shot in the hallway behind the main elevators on Sept. 8, 1935, and died two days later from his wounds. Consistent with Louisianaās banana republic politics, mystery and controversy linger today over the event. The accounts of the day attributed the assassination to a young Baton Rouge doctor. However, there always was speculation that Long actually was shot by his body guards ā either accidentally in the hail of gunfire that killed the doctor or intentionally by a bodyguard in the confusion. The alleged assassinsā gun disappeared for many years, and more recent ballistics tests added to the controversy.
Long is buried on the State Capitol grounds, under a large statue that faces the Capitol Building and his home in North Louisiana.Ā That also means his back (and his backside) is facing the cities of Baton Rouge and New Orleans, which never were part of his political base.
The Louisiana State Capitol remains the tallest state capitol in the US, and includes an observation deck that provides a panoramic view of Baton Rouge and the surrounding countryside. Getting there requires an elevator transfer, with larger elevators serving all floors and a transfer stop at the 27th floor. Then, a maximum of six adult visitors can squeeze into a single elevator that serves the observation deck.Ā We got a āhot tipā from the tour desk to head up quickly to beat a large group that was nearly finished with their guided tour.Ā We zipped to the top with no wait and spent 15 minutes gazing and taking pictures.Ā By the time we came back down, there was a 100-person line waiting to take the trip up.
While the distant views are expansive, most items of interest are easily viewed within a 10-mile radius.Ā To the West, at the foot of the Capitol, are the Pentagon Barracks, easily identified by their shape.Ā The Mississippi River, with its heavy seagoing ship and barge traffic, also is to the West, as are the farmland and industrial sites of West Baton Rouge Parish directly across the river.
To the South, Huey Longās grave site and downtown Baton Rouge are nearby, while the Interstate 10 bridge and LSU are further in the distance.Ā To the North is the Exxon complex, the largest industrial facility in the area.
Back down on the main floor, we visited the Senate Chamber and the House Chamber.Ā The House was in session during our visit, so we sat for a few minutes to watch government in action.Ā Frankly, itās unimpressive, mostly appears to be inaction, and genuinely fits that old clichĆ© about not wanting to watch sausage being made.
Everything In-Between
Generally, thereās a free trolley that runs through downtown Baton Rouge and connects the Old and New Capitol Buildings.Ā We found it to be as elusive as the ghost which allegedly haunts the Old Capitol. So on a sunny and warm spring day, we walked the riverfront and historic Third Street.
Leaving the Old Capitol, we strolled toward the river, through Repentance Park and across the pedestrian bridge past the old downtown Baton Rouge train station. Located directly in front of the Old State Capital, the station was once a bustling center for lobbyist, politicians, business people and regular citizens.Ā Now, itās home to the Louisiana Arts and Science Museum and Pennington Observatory.
The City of Baton Rouge and private organizations have transformed the riverfront area over the past 25+ years, creating an impressive riverfront park, walking area and tourist center. The USS Kidd Veteranās Museum is located there, with the World War II destroyer floating above or resting on a unique mooring that allows you to see the below-waterline hull during low water periods. Ā A few steps downriver is the riverboat-based Belle of Baton Rouge Casino and its land-based hotel.
A riverfront dock sits between those, hosting visiting river cruises on their stops in Baton Rouge. The river-cruise paddle wheeler America was moored here overnight, and most of its guests had disembarked for day excursions into the city and surrounding plantation sites.
Before leaving the levee, we grabbed one of the wooden chairs and stretched out in the sun as the river and its boat traffic flowed by in near silence.
Walking historic Third Street, we stopped along the way to check out newer businesses and remember those that have faded into history.Ā When working as the editor of LSUās alumni magazine in the 1980s, I often spoke to our 40-and-50-year alumni groups who remembered vividly the heyday of this old downtown area. In our alumni office and archives, we had lots of photos of the LSU band parading down Third Street on football game days and for other special events. But, if you donāt have that reference point, youāll likely see Third Street for what it is today ā a cityās feeble attempt to attract and keep retail and entertainment businesses in an area without enough potential customer traffic.
A Bit of Cajun Food Heaven
Nestled at the foot of Florida Street between Third Street and River Road is Poor Boy Lloydās Seafood Restaurant.Ā Itās an authentic Louisiana seafood ājoint,ā and youāll know that immediately as the menu includes alligator, boudin, crabs, crawfish, gumbo, rabbit, shrimp and bread pudding. We settled in for a leisurely lunch that included a catfish poboy and an Italian meatball poboy.
Thanks to a serendipitous social media post, we connected with Ron Thibodeaux, author of Hell or High Water: How Cajun Fortitude Withstood Hurricanes Rita and Ike.
Thanks to a serendipitous social media post about our activities, we connected during lunch with my college friend Ron Thibodeaux, author of Hell or High Water: How Cajun Fortitude Withstood Hurricanes Rita and Ike.Ā I highly recommend Ronās book, as it provides great insight into how the small, tight-knit Cajun communities of Southwest Louisiana stuck together during a series of devastating natural disasters.
OurTravelCafe Favorite Baton Rouge Foods
During our travels, we try to frequent local restaurants, groceries and markets that appeal to us.Ā We generally rely on our own experience and local recommendations, easy in Baton Rouge since we grew up, went to college, live and visit family here.Ā (When we donāt have those insights, we ask friends and fellow bloggers for tips and refer to internet review sites like TripAdvisor, Google Guides, Open Table and Yelp.)
Following are links to reviews weāve posted about some of our favorite Baton Rouge-area eating stops:
BRQ, Jefferson Highway in South Baton Rouge. A newish chef-owned seafood and barbecue restaurant. Sounds odd, but just try it.
The Chimes, Highland Road near LSU.Ā We ate here recently, but I canāt find my review. I wouldnāt mention it if it wasnāt good.
Parrainās Seafood House, Perkins Road near LSU; consistently rated as one of the citiesā best casual seafood restaurants.
Philās Oyster Bar and Seafood Restaurant, Perkins Road near LSU. A Baton Rouge institution revived by sons of the original owner. A little hard to find, and well-worth the hunt.
Poor Boy Lloydās, downtown on Florida Street, a local institution with authentic Cajun food. Love the poboys, and thereās lots more.
Pot and Paddle Jambalaya Kitchen, Denham Springs.Ā Jambalaya, pastalaya and gumbo are the features of the limited menu. Two locations currently, but looks to be regional chain-ready for expansion.
Rouseās Markets.Ā We visited several. This Louisiana grocery store is a leader in the grocer-aunt trend of good fresh foods available for dine-in or take out at a grocery. We were impressed by the boiled local seafoods.
Rue Beignet, South Baton Rouge; New Orleansā-style doughnuts and cafĆ© au lait.
Stormy Side-Story:Ā Sex in Louisiana Politics
I started here talking about the links between current day populism and Huey Long.Ā Thereās another Louisiana political side-story that we canāt overlook in todayās āstormyā political weather.Ā Louisiana politicians are known for their scandalous relationships.Ā Huey Longās brother and Louisiana governor Earl Longās relationship with stripper Blaze Starr made headlines.Ā Later, the story became a movie entitled āBlaze,ā starring Paul Newman as the governor and Lolita Davidovich as Blaze Starr. The movie is described on Amazon as the story of āA fiery, eccentric governor falls in love with an innocent stripper.ā
In the 1970s, Cajun Edwin Edwards began his multi-term stints as governor, then later his term in prison for various misdeeds in elected office. His reputation (often self-proclaimed!) as a āladies manā was part of his charm, and he once proudly held up a bumper sticker during a campaign rally which read, āWin One for the Zipper.ā Edwards is now 90 years old and married to his third wife, who is 50 years his junior. In 2013, the happy couple were the focus of an eight-week television series on A&E Network, called The Governorās Wife, ending with the birth of their child.
More recently, Louisiana Senator and shoe-in for governor, David Vitter, was caught up in the 2007 DC Madam case. His phone number appeared in the diary of DC Madam Deborah Jeane Palfrey, accused of running a high-profile Washington prostitution service. After the disclosure, Vitter won reelection to the Senate, but then lost the 2015 gubernatorial race to (gasp!) a Democrat! The Washington Post did an insightful story that speaks to how Louisianans think about politics, and how and why Vitter won reelection to the Senate but then lost the race for governor.
Your Favorite Louisiana Side-Trips?
We’d love to know what you like to do when visiting and exploring Louisiana.Ā Please leave us a note in the comments section.