Blog – Page 11 of 12 – OurTravelCafe.Com

Why I Need a Vacation from Vacation Planning

Off the Menu

DeanLand

-

May 16, 2018

Why I Need a Vacation from Vacation Planning

Later this year, we’re taking our second Alaska cruise and adding extended visits to Denali National Park, Vancouver, Oregon and Washington. With one Alaska cruise under our belt previously, numerous discussions with friend and neighbors, and encouragement from my family, I undertook the vacation planning on my own.

And now, I need a vacation from planning our vacation.

If you’ve checked out the “About Us” section, you know I’m a seasoned traveler, having visited 47 US states and 30 countries for business and pleasure. So, I’ve been places and done things. But never like this.

The considerations, options, logistics and final decisions of planning a 22-day, trains, planes, automobiles, bus and cruise ship trip for a family of three are overwhelming. At this point, I’m envious of the relative simplicity that faced Merriweather Lewis and William Clark when Thomas Jefferson asked them to take a couple of friends, head out west, collect some souvenirs, make new friends, draw up some maps and report back in a couple of years.

I’m envious of the simplicity that faced Merriweather Lewis and William Clark when Thomas Jefferson asked them to take a couple of friends, head out west, and report back in a couple of years.

Without minimizing the accomplishments of Lewis and Clark, their biggest challenge was the unknown. How do you prepare for that? You can’t exactly, so you do your best based on what you know, pack heavily, and plunge ahead.

But let’s face it, in the 21^st century with virtually every inch of the planet documented on Google maps, airline limits on luggage and the complexity of traveling with a teenager and a spouse, that “just-discover-it” strategy doesn’t work. You must make a plan, a schedule, an itinerary and reservations.

Thus in November 2017, we started considering options based around a a 7-day southbound cruise from Seward to Vancouver. Navigating the available choices proved as challenging as sailing the inside passage on a moonless night in the fog without radar. Traveling with our 13-year-old, we bypassed our go-to cruise line, Holland America, in favor of Royal Caribbean, where the crowds skew younger and the onboard activities more energetic. Our general discussions about options continued until the second week of January, when we finally booked the cruise. Done in only six weeks! Hit the easy button!

Inside Passage, Alaska, Cruise — When we bypassed our go-to cruise line, Holland America, for a 7-day southbound cruise, navigating the other options proved as challenging as sailing the inside passage on a moonless night in the fog without radar.

However, as Jim Croce sang in “Bad Leroy Brown,” the trouble soon began as I started work on the other 15 days. I won’t go into all the details but suffice it to say that it’s virtually impossible to manage the choices and challenges in routing, schedules, lodging arrangements, and activities while adhering to the laws of physics and any sort of budget. And here, the internet is your enemy by always offering more distractions and diversions than solutions. This portion took the entire period from mid-January until shortly before departure – and sometimes it seemed like a full-time job.

In travel planning, the internet is your enemy by always offering more distractions and diversions than solutions.

First, I worked on a pre-cruise itinerary to Denali National Park, since we’re traveling in peak season and Alaska trips book early. Friends informed us that cruise-line arranged Denali trips were s-l-o-w–p-a-c-e-d. We determined we could pack in lots more adventure if we did Denali on our own. That’s how we ended up with three-day itinerary that includes landing in Anchorage on a Monday night, then touring Anchorage, driving to Talkeetna, taking a flight-seeing trip, joining the ranger-led Denali Natural History Tour and Hike, hopefully seeing some wildlife, returning to Anchorage, hopping a bus to Seward, and catching the ship for a Friday evening sailing.

Denali National Park, Denali Natural History tour, wildlife — **We’re joining the ranger-led Denali Natural History Tour and Hike, hopefully seeing some real wildlife up close and returning to Anchorage in one piece.**

For our onboard portion, we wanted to book daily excursions. For those unfamiliar with that term, excursion is cruise-ship terminology for over-priced large-group activities promoted with fabulous pictures and extraordinary descriptions. Then, they are conducted in an over-crowded cruise port and managed to the lowest-common mobility denominator, resulting in a tour pace that would put snails to sleep and experiences as exciting as drinking pasteurized whole milk from a freshly-sterilized glass.

Excursion is cruise-ship terminology for over-priced large-group experiences as exciting as drinking pasteurized whole milk from a freshly-sterilized glass.

Instead, we went the “independent” route, seeking advice from friends, perusing TripAdvisor.com for reviews, and using CostcoTravel.com and direct booking sites to arrange helicopter dog sledding, salmon fishing and whale watching trips with smaller groups. We’re comfortable doing this in US, Canadian and most European ports, but have avoided it in certain ports where crime is high, vendor confidence is low, and negotiation, payment and language are problematic.

Then I started on the 12-day post-cruise portion of the vacation that would make my driving-obsessed, heavy-accelerator-footed father proud. With dogged determination, a few rainy weekends and prolonged periods where no one in my family would speak to me, I finally managed to arrange a general itinerary like this:

Vancouver, free-style touring, 2 days. We’ll likely us the hop-on/hop-off bus as a base, and spend extended times in Stanley Park for bike riding and walking. Since we’ll be here on a Saturday, the Granville Island Public Market figures as a major activity for us as we love these kinds of city markets blending art, shopping, entertainment, and food.
Amtrak Cascades, Vancouver to Portland, 1 day. We booked first-class tickets on this route, rated as one of the most scenic train rides in the US. We’’ll be hugging the coast line and various inlets from Vancouver to Seattle. Then it’s on to mountain views before arriving in Portland. This saves the hassle of renting a car one-way from Canada, and is the reason we didn’t book trains in Alaska. Yes, this is the route of a derailment last December, but that was on a bypass which has been taken out of service for now.
Portland, then late-day drive to Bend, OR, 1 Day. We’ll arrive in Portland late-day, and enjoy some evening time in this quirky city. The next morning, we’ll take in the top-rated Japanese Garden in the country, along with a nearby rose garden. By the late afternoon, we’ll start our trek past Mt. Hood arrive in Bend, OR, after nightfall.
Mount Hood National Park and Bend, OR, 1 day. Other than laundry, I’m not certain of the plan in Bend. But it’s the one place along the way that a family member (surprisingly!) suggested we stop. I’m awaiting further information and instructions, otherwise it looks like a game-time decision.
Crater Lake National Park, 1 day. Leaving Bend early, we’ll do sightseeing and hiking before ending the day in Eugene.
Pacific Coast Drive and Sightseeing, 2 days. We’ll travel Eugene to Pacific City, then Pacific City to Sequim, WA. It’s an ambitious plan, and coast drives can be unpredictable with weather and traffic. Our “must see” list on day one includes Sea Lion Caves, Cape Perpetua (where the cliffs tower 800 feet above the ocean), then Newport and the Otter Creek Loop before staying beachside in Pacific City. Day Two plans include the Cape Meares Lighthouse, horseback riding at Nehalem Bay and Haystack Rock, then a stop in Astoria. From there, it’s back inland to highways and the fastest route to overnight in Sequim.
Olympic National Park, 1 day. Our final ambitious driving day around Olympic National Park starts with Hurricane Ridge, followed by Sol Duc Falls, beachcombing at Second or Third Beach, then Hoh River Rain Forest before making our final drive to Seattle.
Seattle, 2 days. There’s a good chance we may just sleep through until flight day. But, if we can find strong coffee to kick start us, we’ll refuel with good seafood and local beer and good seafood, then power tour at places like Pike Place Market, Olympic Sculpture Park and Chihuly Garden and Glass.

Pacific NW, Road Trip, Coast Trip, National Parks — ***Yellow by train and green by car, our 10-day post-cruise trip would make my driving-obsessed, heavy-accelerator-footed father proud.***

Many details remain to be determined, but those will just be worked out along the way.

So it’s done: the itinerary is set, transportation is arranged, and we have places to sleep. Now I need this vacation to recover from planning this vacation. And for our next extended adventure – a trip to Africa – we’re definitely using our friendly travel agent!

More on Lewis and Clark

If you’ve never read “Undaunted Courage” by Stephen Ambrose, I highly recommend it. The book documents the nearly 2 ½-year journey of the Corps of Discovery round trip from St. Louis to the Pacific Ocean in present-day Oregon. Historically accurate, the storytelling is excellent, and it reads more like a novel. For a truly fictionalized account, I also recommend “From Sea to Shining Sea” by James Alexander Thom, well-known for the accuracy of his historical novels. (Note, I’ve linked to Amazon, but both of these remain in print and can be ordered from other sources.)

Second Thoughts on Concessions to a Teenager

As the sailing date gets closer, I’m second-guessing my cruise line choice, realizing that any cruise would have suited our son if we allowed him to have a week-long on-board internet package.

Calling Baton Rouge

Southern Fried Favorites

DeanLand

-

April 12, 2018

0

In Louisiana, politics is both art form and entertainment, seasoned with a generous helping of colorful figures, banana republic methods, and demagoguery.

With the divisive politics, angry rhetoric and political personalities in the US today, it seemed fitting during a recent Louisiana trip to take a brief political tour of the US in the 1930s by visiting downtown Baton Rouge and the government landmarks of the city.

Once and again a sleepy university and state capital town located on the Mississippi River, Baton Rouge found itself at the center of US populist movement in the 1930s thanks to Louisiana governor Huey Long. As a candidate and governor, Long proposed expansive education and public works programs, all financed with borrowed money. His populist message propelled him to national attention, and after four years as governor, he was elected to the US Senate. Long originally supported President Franklin Roosevelt and his New Deal. Long’s support faded quickly, and by 1935, he had announced his candidacy for president, along with his “Share the Wealth” plan and defining motto, “Every Man a King.” A ruthless politician and fiery orator often propelled by personal experiences, Long was a fierce opponent to large companies, often calling for them to be broken apart to limit their influence and power. Among his favorite corporate targets were Standard Oil Company (the predecessor to Exxon), and US business titans JD Rockefeller and JP Morgan.

Our landmark tour focused on the heart of 1930s Baton Rouge: The Old State Capital, the Mississippi River and old Baton Rouge Train Station, historic Third Street, and the New State Capital Building.

The “Old” State Capitol

Louisiana, South, politics, populism, — ***The “Old State Capitol” — also known as the Castle on the River — sits on a high bluff overlooking the Mississippi River***

Described in original design papers by architect James Daikin as ““Castellated Gothic,” the building intentionally was designed not to resemble the Greek and Roman architectural style of most large public works projects of the time. Twin octagonal towers tower over the front of the structure and face the Mississippi River, and the entire roof line is notched in the style of European medieval castles.

Mark Twain once referred to the building as “a little sham castle” on the Mississippi River, and wished in his book, Life on the Mississippi, that authorities would have “let dynamite finish what a charitable fire began.”

Regardless, the Old State Capitol – often called the Castle on the River — was restored after the Civil War and most recently in the 1990s, and today stands overlooking the Mississippi River from its high bluff in Baton Rouge.

Louisiana, South, politics, populism, Old State Capitol — **The highlight of the entry is a cast iron spiral staircase leading to a towering stained glass vault. Strands of multicolored lights shine down to illuminate the building.**

Inside, a towering stained-glass vault dominates the atrium, sending multi-colored light down to the floors below and highlighting the cast iron spiral staircase at the center of the building. A single cast-iron support rises from floor to the ceiling, supporting the dome structure.

Today, the building houses an impressive Museum of Political History, mostly focused on Huey Long’s rise to power in Louisiana and the national political scene. Growing up in Louisiana with French-speaking grandparents, I also enjoyed the temporary exhibit focused on the work of CODOFIL (Council on Development of French In Louisiana) to expand French-speaking in the state. Most notable was a single student’s desk, facing a blackboard, on which was written 10+ times, “I will not speak French in school.” It was a vivid reminder that my parents and grandparents often spoke French among their generation (especially when they wanted to keep things from us) but refused to teach our generation any Cajun French.

Louisiana, South, CODOFIL, Cajun French, Old State Capitol — A single student’s desk, facing a blackboard on which was written 10+ times, “I will not speak French in school,” was a vivid reminder that my parents and grandparents spoke Cajun French but refused to teach our generation the language.

In the extensive exhibit dedicated to Huey Long, we listened to his famous “barbeque speech,” where he uses the analogy of an outdoor barbeque to ferociously attack John Rockefeller and JP Morgan, alleging that they take an unfair share of wealth while poor people remain hungry and unfed. To get a sense of Long’s populist appeal, check out this YouTube video clip of that speech.

Unfortunately, the public is no longer allowed to climb to the top of the front towers overlooking the Mississippi River and downtown Baton Rouge. When attending LSU in the late 1970s, I climbed the stairs to the towers and spent an afternoon on the rooftop taking photos for my photojournalism class.

Louisiana, South, populism, Huey Long, Old State Capitol — Louisiana governor and US Senator Huey Long was a fierce orator and leading populist in the 1930s. He frequently attacked America’s richest industrial icons, to the delight of the Depression-era unemployed.

We spent just over an hour at this site, and enjoyed the free audio tour available at the Welcome Desk. Upon leaving, we inspected the cast iron fence which surrounds the grounds.

The “New” State Capitol

Where other than Louisiana, with its heavily Euro-and-African centric colonial history, would a building constructed in the 1930s still be labelled as the “new” anything? But ask any local about the location or history of the State Capitol building, and I guarantee the word “new” will be used multiple times in the answer.

To get the votes needed, Long strategically placed recalcitrant legislators directly under the plethora of leaks in the old capitol’s roof — the Louisiana political version of waterboarding.

During his infrastructure expansion and building spree as governor, Huey Long lobbied the State Legislature to replace the Castle with a new 450-foot skyscraper. Legend has it that after multiple failed attempts, Long gained approval by calling for a vote during a heavy thunderstorm. He strategically placed recalcitrant legislators directly under the plethora of leaks in the old capitol’s roof, finally earning their support by use of this primitive form of waterboarding.

Louisiana, New State Capitol, South, Populism, Baton Rouge — **Although it’s been the seat of government since the 1930s, if you ask any local about the State Capitol building, the word “new” likely will be used in their answer.**

Oddly, this towering achievement also became the ultimate location of Long’s demise. Long was shot in the hallway behind the main elevators on Sept. 8, 1935, and died two days later from his wounds. Consistent with Louisiana’s banana republic politics, mystery and controversy linger today over the event. The accounts of the day attributed the assassination to a young Baton Rouge doctor. However, there always was speculation that Long actually was shot by his body guards – either accidentally in the hail of gunfire that killed the doctor or intentionally by a bodyguard in the confusion. The alleged assassins’ gun disappeared for many years, and more recent ballistics tests added to the controversy.

Long is buried on the State Capitol grounds, under a large statue that faces the Capitol Building and his home in North Louisiana. That also means his back (and his backside) is facing the cities of Baton Rouge and New Orleans, which never were part of his political base.

Louisiana, South, Mississippi River, Baton Rouge — **The western panoramic view features the Mississippi River and its commercial traffic in the foreground.**

Louisiana, Baton Rouge, South, Mississippi River — **The eastern panorama includes petrochemical plants on the left and downtown Baton Rouge to the far right.**

The Louisiana State Capitol remains the tallest state capitol in the US, and includes an observation deck that provides a panoramic view of Baton Rouge and the surrounding countryside. Getting there requires an elevator transfer, with larger elevators serving all floors and a transfer stop at the 27^th floor. Then, a maximum of six adult visitors can squeeze into a single elevator that serves the observation deck. We got a “hot tip” from the tour desk to head up quickly to beat a large group that was nearly finished with their guided tour. We zipped to the top with no wait and spent 15 minutes gazing and taking pictures. By the time we came back down, there was a 100-person line waiting to take the trip up.

While the distant views are expansive, most items of interest are easily viewed within a 10-mile radius. To the West, at the foot of the Capitol, are the Pentagon Barracks, easily identified by their shape. The Mississippi River, with its heavy seagoing ship and barge traffic, also is to the West, as are the farmland and industrial sites of West Baton Rouge Parish directly across the river.

Louisiana, Baton Rouge, South, Huey Long, populism — Huey Long is buried at the center of the expansive lawn. His statue faces the Capitol Building and his home in North Louisiana. His back — and backside! — faces the cities of Baton Rouge and New Orleans, which never were part of his political base.

To the South, Huey Long’s grave site and downtown Baton Rouge are nearby, while the Interstate 10 bridge and LSU are further in the distance. To the North is the Exxon complex, the largest industrial facility in the area.

Back down on the main floor, we visited the Senate Chamber and the House Chamber. The House was in session during our visit, so we sat for a few minutes to watch government in action. Frankly, it’s unimpressive, mostly appears to be inaction, and genuinely fits that old cliché about not wanting to watch sausage being made.

Everything In-Between

Generally, there’s a free trolley that runs through downtown Baton Rouge and connects the Old and New Capitol Buildings. We found it to be as elusive as the ghost which allegedly haunts the Old Capitol. So on a sunny and warm spring day, we walked the riverfront and historic Third Street.

Leaving the Old Capitol, we strolled toward the river, through Repentance Park and across the pedestrian bridge past the old downtown Baton Rouge train station. Located directly in front of the Old State Capital, the station was once a bustling center for lobbyist, politicians, business people and regular citizens. Now, it’s home to the Louisiana Arts and Science Museum and Pennington Observatory.

Louisiana, Baton Rouge, river boat, paddle wheeler, river cruise, South — **The river cruise paddle wheeler America was moored at the downtown Baton Rouge dock overnight, while its passengers roamed the city, plantation sites and the casinos nearby.**

The City of Baton Rouge and private organizations have transformed the riverfront area over the past 25+ years, creating an impressive riverfront park, walking area and tourist center. The USS Kidd Veteran’s Museum is located there, with the World War II destroyer floating above or resting on a unique mooring that allows you to see the below-waterline hull during low water periods. A few steps downriver is the riverboat-based Belle of Baton Rouge Casino and its land-based hotel.

A riverfront dock sits between those, hosting visiting river cruises on their stops in Baton Rouge. The river-cruise paddle wheeler America was moored here overnight, and most of its guests had disembarked for day excursions into the city and surrounding plantation sites.

Before leaving the levee, we grabbed one of the wooden chairs and stretched out in the sun as the river and its boat traffic flowed by in near silence.

Walking historic Third Street, we stopped along the way to check out newer businesses and remember those that have faded into history. When working as the editor of LSU’s alumni magazine in the 1980s, I often spoke to our 40-and-50-year alumni groups who remembered vividly the heyday of this old downtown area. In our alumni office and archives, we had lots of photos of the LSU band parading down Third Street on football game days and for other special events. But, if you don’t have that reference point, you’ll likely see Third Street for what it is today – a city’s feeble attempt to attract and keep retail and entertainment businesses in an area without enough potential customer traffic.

A Bit of Cajun Food Heaven

Nestled at the foot of Florida Street between Third Street and River Road is Poor Boy Lloyd’s Seafood Restaurant. It’s an authentic Louisiana seafood “joint,” and you’ll know that immediately as the menu includes alligator, boudin, crabs, crawfish, gumbo, rabbit, shrimp and bread pudding. We settled in for a leisurely lunch that included a catfish poboy and an Italian meatball poboy.

Thanks to a serendipitous social media post, we connected with Ron Thibodeaux, author of Hell or High Water: How Cajun Fortitude Withstood Hurricanes Rita and Ike.

Thanks to a serendipitous social media post about our activities, we connected during lunch with my college friend Ron Thibodeaux, author of Hell or High Water: How Cajun Fortitude Withstood Hurricanes Rita and Ike. I highly recommend Ron’s book, as it provides great insight into how the small, tight-knit Cajun communities of Southwest Louisiana stuck together during a series of devastating natural disasters.

OurTravelCafe Favorite Baton Rouge Foods

During our travels, we try to frequent local restaurants, groceries and markets that appeal to us. We generally rely on our own experience and local recommendations, easy in Baton Rouge since we grew up, went to college, live and visit family here. (When we don’t have those insights, we ask friends and fellow bloggers for tips and refer to internet review sites like TripAdvisor, Google Guides, Open Table and Yelp.)

Following are links to reviews we’ve posted about some of our favorite Baton Rouge-area eating stops:

BRQ, Jefferson Highway in South Baton Rouge. A newish chef-owned seafood and barbecue restaurant. Sounds odd, but just try it.

The Chimes, Highland Road near LSU. We ate here recently, but I can’t find my review. I wouldn’t mention it if it wasn’t good.

Parrain’s Seafood House, Perkins Road near LSU; consistently rated as one of the cities’ best casual seafood restaurants.

Phil’s Oyster Bar and Seafood Restaurant, Perkins Road near LSU. A Baton Rouge institution revived by sons of the original owner. A little hard to find, and well-worth the hunt.

Poor Boy Lloyd’s on Florida Street offered catfish poboys and lots of other local favorites. Among other authentic Louisiana choices: alligator, boudin balls, soft shell crabs, crawfish, rabbit sausage, shrimp and bread pudding.

Poor Boy Lloyd’s, downtown on Florida Street, a local institution with authentic Cajun food. Love the poboys, and there’s lots more.

Pot and Paddle Jambalaya Kitchen, Denham Springs. Jambalaya, pastalaya and gumbo are the features of the limited menu. Two locations currently, but looks to be regional chain-ready for expansion.

Rouse’s Markets. We visited several. This Louisiana grocery store is a leader in the grocer-aunt trend of good fresh foods available for dine-in or take out at a grocery. We were impressed by the boiled local seafoods.

Rue Beignet, South Baton Rouge; New Orleans’-style doughnuts and café au lait.

Stormy Side-Story: Sex in Louisiana Politics

I started here talking about the links between current day populism and Huey Long. There’s another Louisiana political side-story that we can’t overlook in today’s “stormy” political weather. Louisiana politicians are known for their scandalous relationships. Huey Long’s brother and Louisiana governor Earl Long’s relationship with stripper Blaze Starr made headlines. Later, the story became a movie entitled “Blaze,” starring Paul Newman as the governor and Lolita Davidovich as Blaze Starr. The movie is described on Amazon as the story of “A fiery, eccentric governor falls in love with an innocent stripper.”

In the 1970s, Cajun Edwin Edwards began his multi-term stints as governor, then later his term in prison for various misdeeds in elected office. His reputation (often self-proclaimed!) as a “ladies man” was part of his charm, and he once proudly held up a bumper sticker during a campaign rally which read, “Win One for the Zipper.” Edwards is now 90 years old and married to his third wife, who is 50 years his junior. In 2013, the happy couple were the focus of an eight-week television series on A&E Network, called The Governor’s Wife, ending with the birth of their child.

More recently, Louisiana Senator and shoe-in for governor, David Vitter, was caught up in the 2007 DC Madam case. His phone number appeared in the diary of DC Madam Deborah Jeane Palfrey, accused of running a high-profile Washington prostitution service. After the disclosure, Vitter won reelection to the Senate, but then lost the 2015 gubernatorial race to (gasp!) a Democrat! The Washington Post did an insightful story that speaks to how Louisianans think about politics, and how and why Vitter won reelection to the Senate but then lost the race for governor.

Your Favorite Louisiana Side-Trips?

We’d love to know what you like to do when visiting and exploring Louisiana. Please leave us a note in the comments section.

Check Out KeMo’s Backside!

Georgia Small Plates

DeanLand

-

March 23, 2018

0

You just have to check out KeMo’s backside!

No, KeMo is not a little-known member of the Kardashian family, but rather, Kennesaw Mountain, located just North of Atlanta. According to the National Park Service, KeMo is the most visited national battlefield in the country and gets more visits each year than the White House. That’s likely because of it’s location in the densely populated NW Atlanta area and the availability of lots of outdoor activities, Civil War history and other nearby attractions.

But most people miss KeMo’s backside, a shapely, well-rounded, and beautiful natural attraction often unseen and unappreciated by those drawn to KeMo’s more recognizable and oft-visited full frontal approach.

Kennesaw, Georgia, Atlanta, NPS, Civil War, Hike — KeMo’s backside hike explores a shapely, well-rounded, and beautiful natural attraction. Start at the Visitors Center and take acontra approach, avoiding the crowds, enjoying a longer hike, taking in more scenery and getting more exercise. (Right click the image and select “open in new tab” to get a better view of the route.)

Since most people hike the main Kennesaw Mountain trail or the paved road up and down the mountain, we encourage a contra approach, avoiding the crowds, enjoying a longer hike, taking in more scenery and fresh air and getting more exercise. By taking the Mountain Loop trail around the mountain first, then ascending KeMo’s backside of Pigeon Hill and Little Kennesaw before cresting the peak of Kennesaw mountain and heading down the front, you’ll enjoy a fun – and occasionally moderately challenging – hike of 5.8 miles.

One note of caution: plan before you attempt this. You will be walking for a couple of hours, you won’t always be on smooth, flat or paved surfaces, and there are some stretches where you’ll elevate your heart rate. And because you’ll walk through fields, forests, gravel trails, dirt trails, rocks and inclines, be certain you have sunscreen, bug spray, water and good walking or hiking shoes.

Kennesaw, Georgia, Atlanta, NPS — **Through the forest, the trail is mostly flat and smooth. Later, you’ll encounter steep inclines, treacherous footing and larger rocks.**

Starting Out

Taking the contra route, you’ll start at the Visitor’s Center, wave goodbye to all those people walking up the main trail, and instead follow along the open field that faces Stilesboro Road and Old Highway 41. On some days, you may find Civil War reenactors in camp near the Visitor’s Center and demonstrating canon firings on the field. If so, stop for a visit as the reenactors are friendly and full of information about all things Civil War.

Atlanta, Georgia, Kennesaw, NPS — Civil War reenactors frequently camp and offer artillery demonstration on the field near the Visitors Center. This group represented Union troops. Stop and have a chat, as they offer a wealth of local information.

At about 0.2 miles, and before entering the forest section of the trail, you’ll pass by the towering Georgia Confederate Soldiers Monument, an all-marble memorial completed in 1963.

The Forest

Turning into the forest on a sunny day will provide welcome respite from the Georgia heat. In the winter, as the leaves have dropped to the forest floor, you’ll be happy for the sun’s warm. At about 0.8 miles, you’ll come upon signs for Camp Brumby, where you can find foundational remains of a Civilian Conservation Corps camp that operated from 1938 to 1942. The 200 men housed here worked mostly on projects at the mountain, including building signs, creating the trail system, and widening roads. Today, foundations of the headquarters, bath house, and a portion of the mess hall foundation remains at the site.

Atlanta, Georgia, Civil War, NPS — **Be on the lookout for wildlife on the walk through the forest. Our son, Eli, encountered deer on a late-summer walk near Camp Brumby.**

Enjoy the approximately 2-mile walk through the woods, all on gently undulating ground with approximately 100 feet of elevation change. On this section, you’ll likely see and hear birds, and perhaps encounter a few forest creatures. We’ve seen many squirrels along the way, and a few small deer near the Camp Brumby location. Remember to use caution as Georgia is home to 6 species of poisonous snakes, including the copperhead, timber rattlesnake and pygmy rattlesnake frequently found in the NW Georgia area. You’ll be near the park’s edge, and several homes and a fenced neighborhood sit on the boundary. Please stay on the trails and be respectful of private property.

Pigeon Hill

Just past milepost 3 – just short of your half-way point – the Brumby Trail intersects with the Pigeon Hill Trail. At the well-marked intersection, take a hard-right turn and follow the Pigeon Hill trail. Until now, the trail has been relatively flat. Over the next 1.5 miles, you’ll ascend approximately 700 feet, covering Pigeon Hill, the top of Little Kennesaw Mountain and the peak of Kennesaw Mountain at 1,808 ft.

The Rocks and Big Zig

The trail turns rocky as you leave Pigeon Hill and head up Little Kennesaw Mountain. At a point known as The Big Zig, the trail doubles back on itself through the rocks. Here, you’re at approximately 1/3 of the way up Little Kennesaw Mountain, with approximately 250 vertical feet to climb.

This section of the trail exposes the deep-rock remnants of ancient mountains, which at the time of their formation appeared more like today’s Rocky Mountains than the eroded and more gentle landscape of the surrounding area. Large boulders protrude from the surrounding landscape, many ranging from 10 to 20 feet tall. You may see some rock climbers here, but we recommend you stick to the trail to enjoy the scenery.

Geologically, this entire area around and including Kennesaw Mountain is referred to as a monadnock, which translates to “lonely mountain” from the Native Americans Abenaki Tribe of the Algonquian Nation. You can learn more about the geologic origins and history of Kennesaw Mountain and Northwest Georgia in a National Park Service PDF file.

Little KeMo and The Saddle

Once you reach to top of Little KeMo, the trail descends into the saddle of the ridge before you start climbing the final 360 vertical feet to the top of Kennesaw Mountain.

Atlanta, Georgia, Civil War, Kennesaw, NPS — **Canon placements mark the site of Fort McBride. Before you resume your journey to the summit, consider that it took 100 men to move each canon to its original location here.**

Along the saddle are repositioned Civil War-era canons, placed at the site of a Confederate artillery battery known as Fort McBride which exchanged fire with Union troops for nearly 2 weeks during the Battle of Kennesaw Mountain. As you stop to look at the canons, take a sip of water and consider that it required approximately 100 men to move each canon up to Ft. McBride.

From here, you’ll continue along a relatively wide gravel-and-earth trail until you reach Kennesaw Mountain Drive, the road that allows weekday drivers and weekend shuttles to bypass your walking journey to the top. (Don’t be angry; you chose to walk, and they didn’t get the exercise!) The final ascent is a winding, rocky and relatively steep trail, so use caution.

The Summit: Enjoy Your Accomplishment

Kennesaw, Atlanta, Georgia, Civil War, Kemo, NPS — **These hikers enjoyed their summit view, stringing hammocks just off the peak trail.**

At the peak of KeMo, you’re approximately 900 feet above the surrounding area with unobstructed views to Atlanta and Stone Mountain to the South and East. A park sign facing to the South labels some of the most visible points of interest. In the Northerly direction, Kennesaw is at the foot of the mountain, with the twin cooling towers of Georgia Power’s coal-fired Plant Bowen and the rising foothills of the Smokey Mountains in the distance. As KeMo is a wooded peak, you won’t have a full panoramic view. And since you’re in the South, depending on the time of day, elevation and weather, a light fog, high humidity, or atmospheric haze may prevent your mountain top pictures from being crystal clear.

Kennesaw, Atlanta, Georgia, Civil War, NPS — The summit view. To the South (right) are Marietta and Atlanta, with Stone Mountain in the distance. To the North (left) are Kennesaw, Lake Alatoona, and the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains. Straight ahead is the route down.

Going Down

You’ll have two options for the route down: a well-traveled, relatively wide path through the woods, or the road. The wooded trail is slightly shorter, while the road circles the mountain to maintain an easy route for cars. The wooded path also continues the signage marking various unit placements in the Civil War battle, so if history is part of the reason for your hike, stay in the woods. But, after you’ve experienced KeMo’s backside, either way will provide an easy, trouble-free and scenic walk.

On the weekends, the road is closed to all vehicle traffic except a National Park Service shuttle that periodically takes visitors to the top for a small fee. Beware the occasional biker who has struggled up the nearly 900-foot, 1-mile climb and now gets to coast down – sometimes forgetting that the speed limit applies to bikers, too.

The Physical Statistics

Kennesaw, Atlanta, Georgia, Civil War, Hike, NPS — My Garmin VivoActive HR reporting provides a look at the physical and geographic statistics of our hike. Blue is our walking speed. Red is heart rate. Green is elevation. I’ve added the orange line and labels to match the blog sections. (Right click the image and select “open in new tab” to get a better view of the image.)

I use a Garmin VIvoactive HR to track all my physical activities, including locations, distances, elevations and my exertion. A side benefit is that the Garmin Connect software provides good data and graphs that help me recall and fully-form memories of moments, scenery, surroundings and effort. I’ve added a descriptive title line in orange to the standard graphs, generally matching the section headlines in this post. Note that, in the blog post where my Garmin elevation data conflicted with any published data, I generally used the published data as I find elevation information can be sometimes unreliable on the Garmin watch. Otherwise, if you’re considering a watch-style device for activity, I highly recommend the Garmin VivoActive HR.

Before or After the Hike

My first pre-and-post-hike stop was the restrooms in the Visitor’s Center – maybe too much information for you, but remember, unless you’re a bear or forest creature, these are the only real restrooms for miles around. Keep that in mind before you venture away to KeMo’s backside or full-frontal ascent.

The Visitor’s Center offers a good display on the Battle of Kennesaw Mountain, including an informative large-format illustrated timeline on the wall. A 35-minute movie also is shown in the theatre.

If you have a hankering for more local history, nearby Kennesaw History Museum, Gone with the Wind Museum and the Southern Museum of Civil War and Locomotive History are excellent choices for a one-to-two hour stop. For the sake of other visitors, you may want to visit these museums first as you likely will be carrying the distinctive aroma of “eau de Mont-aine” after your long and winding hike.

Social Posts

If you’re inclined to share this on social, these images may help:

Atlanta, Georgia, Hike, Kennesaw Mountain, Civil War, NPS — **Optimized for Pinterest: Kennesaw Mountain’s backside loop hike is a 5.8 mile trek through the forest, over rocks and to a fabulous summit view.**

Atlanta, Georgia, Civil War, Hike, Kennesaw, NPS — Twitter: Kennesaw Mountain’s backside is a shapely, well-rounded beautiful natural attraction. We’re talking about a 5.8 mile #hike near the nation’s most-visited #CivilWar national #battlefield near #Atlanta.

Atlanta, Georgia, Kennesaw, Civil War, Hike, NPS — Facebook: KeMo’s 5.8-mile loop hike features a walk through the forest, a rocky climb, Civil War history, and lots of natural beauty. If you’re looking for a close-in hike near Atlanta, check out KeMo’s backside.

Lessons in Vacation Home Rentals

Off the Menu

DeanLand

-

March 9, 2018

0

Some of you may know the story of how and why we rented a vacation home for our family trip to Disney World. For those who don’t, here’s the summary: Planned to rent an RV for the trip. Did an RV test rental for a long weekend with our family, daughter, son-in-law and two grand kids. Decided to rent a home for our week-long Orlando trip instead!

As always, we learned a few lessons in the planning and vacation stages. Here are a few tips that might help you in considering and planning a vacation home rental:

Know your rental goals. There’s a reason — and likely, several — why you’re considering a home rather than a hotel, motel, condo, RV or tent. Think hard about the answer because your home choice and location will depend heavily on your goal. For us — following our RV rental test — we knew we needed more space for grandchildren, better privacy and soundproofing for adults, and sufficient (indoor) bathrooms to accommodate everyone without a wait. Already knowing our destination, we made our selections first on bedroom and bathroom counts. Once we narrowed our options based on those criteria, we focused on our next most important factors, which included convenience to our daily destinations and available amenities. We used VRBO.com (which offers excellent filtering and sorting criteria) to identify a 6-bedroom, 6 bath home on the Solana development just of US-27 west of the Disney complex.
Check the home and owner ratings. Frankly, Orlando is awash in a sea of private rentals. While we did check a number of other options, again we used VRBO.com for reviews, comments and owner ratings. We found the renter comments to be robust, straightforward, and honest. We eliminated a number of potential choices based on comments (everything from poor maintenance and poor owner response time to spiders, roaches and ants — oh my!). In addition to checking rentals where we had specific interest, we checked others nearby to get a better feel for overall neighborhood conditions or problems. And we picked up a few time-and-money-saving tips along the way for our selected rental, including bringing along extra cleaning supplies and towels from home since we had space in the car.
The Solana Resort community where we rented offered a broad range of amenities including pool, cabanas, hot tub, miniature golf and more, which provided a welcome respite from the park crowds.
Don’t forget community amenities. Our rental home was in Solana Resort, a gated community that includes rental and residential properties. The location and guarded gate cut down on traffic and made us feel more secure. The community offered a clubhouse with pool, cabanas, hot tub, playground, sand volleyball, workout room and miniature golf course. There was food and beverage service available from lunch to closing at the pool — a great convenience with very, very reasonable prices. OK, it wasn’t a golf resort, and neither was it the Ritz. Still, we made good use of these free amenities, especially on our arrival and “rest” day away from the parks.
You’re doing housework. Unless you opt for regular housekeeping service, you’ll be doing some cleaning for an extended rental. For us,that meant preparing family breakfasts in the mornings, making sandwich and snack packs on several days, and some sharing of dinner duties. I also personally did more loads of laundry and folded more towels on our vacation that I had for the prior six months (hint: Mama’s gotta have a vacation sometime!) If that’s a problem, many rental companies offer full or limited housekeeping service for an additional fee.
Unless you hire a housekeeping service, chances are you’re going to be doing some housework .
Bring some touches of home. Again, we had the luxury of driving, so we were able to pack our trusty Vitamix blender for breakfast smoothies. Our daughters packed favorite toys for their girl and boys. I stashed away my favorite brand of regional coffee and a few local brews that likely weren’t going to be available in Orlando, plus my travel-size spray bottle of lavender for a nightly pillow spray. Some other items you might consider: personal pillows, your favorite scent of air freshener and your portable music player with an external speaker. (Don’t forget or hesitate to download a white noise app if strange sounds tend to keep you awake.)
Take house pictures on arrival and departure. Since this is the 201Xs and you’re not paying for film or developing, use a few megabytes of camera storage to avoid potential problems. We had a few very minor maintenance issues during our rental period, and our owner (Michelle) was reasonable to work with. But we also heard (and read) some real horror stories about home conditions, cleaning and mechanical problems, and deposit disagreements. A few pictures at arrival and departure can help to protect you — and the owner — in the event of problems. If you do find specific problems like preexisting damage, items missing from the home inventory, or other items amiss, be sure to capture pictures and provide a written description of the situation. To best protect yourself, submit the pictures and description immediately to the owner and rental management company. If you do it by e-mail, request a receipt or confirmation through your e-mail system and directly of the addressees.
Conduct an inventory on arrival, take pictures, and report any damage or unusual conditions immediately.
Someone is a slob. You know it. Your family knows it. Likely even that one person in your party who is the slob knows it. So be prepared for it. Complaining, harassment and threats aren’t going to change their behavior. In fact, it’s more likely to escalate a tense situation. So if gentle hints don’t work, try kicking their stuff to the side, have another cocktail, and remember you’re supposed to be relaxing.
Someone’s a slob. You know it, and chances are they know it. Kick their stuff to the side and have another beverage — this is vacation!

A Few More Details

Just in case you’re curious, our property was located at 630 Solana Circle, Davenport, FL. That’s on the West side of the Disney area, and away from International Drive, the Orlando Convention Center and the more crowded US 192 area in Kissimmee. We had been Tampa-area residents for 10+ years, and watched this area grow from rural landscape to a bustling X-burb in that period. Traffic isn’t as heavy on the West side of the main entrance to Disney, and there’s still plenty of dining and retail infrastructure.

**Generally, our travel time from the west-side rental location to the Disney parks was approximately 30 minutes.**

Generally, our morning travel times (to the Disney parking lots) averaged 30 minutes. We made two round-trips to the airport (one on Saturday afternoon, and another on the following Saturday morning), each of which was completed door-to-door in under 90 minutes — including pick-up and drop-off time traffic at MCO. We also made a weekday trip to Legoland, and one-way drive time was approximately 45 minutes.

If you’re driving in Orlando, be forewarned about toll roads — they’re everywhere! And you want to use them, as traffic (typically) moves faster on the toll roads than on Interstate 4, any of the US Highways, or the other surface streets. To avoid long toll lines and the inconvenience of paying with cash, you can get an E-Pass at Florida welcome centers. They are also on sale at most chain drug stores, grocery stores and convenience stores. If you’re renting a car, ask your rental agency if they offer a toll payment program.

Our House and Owner

I mentioned earlier that we read and heard horror stories about some rental management companies and owners. We were fortunate, and had a reasonable experience with Michelle (our owner: https://www.facebook.com/OrlandoVacationRentalsByMichelle/ ) and Orlando Vacation Rental Service (the management company).

The house itself was “as advertised” with regard to space, layout, pictures and amenities. Precheck-in housekeeping could have used some improvement, specifically floor and kitchen cleaning. So we swept up the floors and rewashed any dishes before using them.

We also encountered a few of Florida’s most prevalent animals — insects. And they were not as cute or entertaining as those you find at Animal Kingdom’s Bugs’ Life attraction. Having been Florida residents for 10+ years, I won’t overplay the presence of a few roaches and ants in kitchen and bath areas. But it’s important to note that the presence of these in any significant numbers points to a housekeeping and pest maintenance problem. In our research, we eliminate multiple home options where the reviews mentioned bugs. Suffice it to say that our trip to the local Publix for groceries and supplies included a can of bug spray.

Florida, Orlando, Vacation — **We also encountered some of Florida’s most prevalent animals in our rental — insects! They weren’t as adorable as these from Disney’s Animal Kingdom.**

While we had a minor problem with the washing machine during our stay, both OVRS and Michelle were attentive, responsive and generally communicative. We also reported immediately fallen wires in the garage that made the game room unusable. We were surprised after the rental to have a $25 damage claim filed with the insurance company for bleach-stains on several towels. We didn’t do it, but then, we also didn’t capture it on an inventory at check in. Thus, the owner and insurance company are working out what I consider to be a false and frivolous claim. While we used the insurance option through VRBO.com, we’ve also used previously and had great travel insurance services and reimbursement experiences through Roam Right.

Our Conclusion: Yes, We’d Do It Again!

Would we rent a vacation home again? Most definitely! We had a great time, enjoyed the family, and did it all on a very reasonable budget. That said, we also will continue taking future vacations — without a group of 11 — that are high on service, amenities and luxury.

Florida, Orlando, Vacation, Rental — **We had the luxury of driving, so we were able to pack our trusty Vitamix blender, favorite toys for girls and boys and favorite brands of coffee and a local beverages to provide a touch of home.**

Next up for our family of three is a 3-week Pacific Northwest tour, that includes a self-guided visit to Denali National Park, a 7-day cruise on Royal Caribbean (a first for us, as we are usually Holland America devotees), a weekend in Vancouver, then 10 days in Washington and Oregon. We’ll be sharing our planning process here. We also welcome any suggestions or ideas for activities through our e-mail.

Florida, South, Vacation — **Optimized for Use on Pinterest**

Mardi Gras and Moon Pies in Mobile

Southern Fried Favorites

DeanLand

-

February 8, 2018

0

When most people think of Mardi Gras, they are drawn to images of the wild, raucous and often lewd version of the Fat Tuesday celebration associated with New Orleans. And though New Orleans may own the most recognized pre-Lenten celebration in the US, it actually originated about 150 miles east in the sleepy port town of Mobile, Alabama.

Mardi Gras, Carnival Museum, Mobile, Alabama — ***The jesters at the Carnival Museum entrance caught our eye as we detoured through downtown Mobile around the I-10 tunnel. Passing it, we circled back and enjoyed a two-hour visit.***

The term Mobile Mardi Gras offers both better alliteration and a more family-friendly environment for watching parades and experiencing the most royal traditions one can find in the US. But if you can’t be in Mobile during the actual celebration, be sure to stop by the Mobile Carnival Museum to get a taste of the event, its history and even some of its most popular parade favors, the Moon Pie.

Mardi Gras, Carnival, Mobile, Alabama — **Mobile’s Mardi Gras is more family-friendly and kid-inclusive than the main New Orleans celebrations.**

We stumbled on the museum by chance, rerouting through downtown to avoid a traffic snarl in the I-10 tunnel under the Mobile River. Driving by the three-story home which houses the museum, we made a quick circle around the block and spent the next two hours wandering through the expansive displays, taking our time to examine the displays, read the placards, watch some of the informative multimedia presentations that bring history to life. Frankly, we easily could have spent another hour or so, but our hungry 12-year-old consumed all the available video as fast as he does a Chick-Fil-A meal, and we had to seek both food and new entertainment for our own sanity.

A quick fact-check on Mobile’s claim to be the home of Mardi Gras establishes the first observation of the event in 1703. The first parade recorded in 1711 when local residents tugged a paper mache bull down Dauphine Street celebrating Boeuf Gras. The Cowbellians, one of the original secret societies, introduced horse-drawn floats to the celebrations in 1840. The Carnival Museum’s official website (http://www.mobilecarnivalmuseum.com) notes that from 1862-1865, “Carnival is cancelled during the War of Northern Aggression.” Parading resumed in 1866, says the official website, as the “Lost Cause Minstrels in a procession through the City in defiance of occupying Union troops.” The citizens of Mobile have been parading consistently since the, except for short breaks during World War I and World War II.

Visitors enter and exit the Carnival Museum through the gift shop, which generally is staffed by volunteers who love the museum and hosting visitors. We waited a few minutes at the entrance as the volunteer on staff had accompanied another family into the museum and was sharing some personal experiences — a delightful honor we shared as well. A brief, large-screen video presentation introduces the sights and sounds of Carnival before visitors enter a large hall featuring several full-sized floats and Mardi Gras regalia. Be sure to take a few minutes to climb aboard the floats and do use the available beads to understand just what riding and throwing these treasured trinkets is all about.

The highlights of the museum are the extensive costume displays, including a wide variety of king, queen and court member vestments from the major mystical societies. The smartphone tour is an essential element of getting both the history of the mystic societies and some of the backstory on the elaborate ceremonies, costumes and crowns.

In addition to informative placards and videos that accompany the displays, the Carnival Museum offers an interactive smart phone tour that extends the written descriptions and includes additional audio and video. It’s a great supplement to the in-person experience, and available free: https://mobilecarnival.oncell.com With 60 numbered displays, you probably won’t listen to all the offerings unless you have 3+ hours to invest. But they do offer some great supplemental information, for example, the reason why the last official vehicle in all parades is a fire truck.

Our Best Tips for Visiting:

Ride a Float. The entry hall and the full-sized floats are perfect exhibits, for kids of any age. With permission, you can climb aboard and get the unique perspective of a masked rider. There are usually a few beads available for you to throw to your squad or family. But be sure to use the right technique: beads should be thrown upward in an arc so they float over the crowd, tantalizing the revelers before reaching the upraised hands of the crowd. An underhand motion is advised to avoid smacking an unsuspecting reveler directly in the face.

Use the Smart Phone Tour. It’s free, informative and fun. You can pick and choose the exhibits where you get more information. I focused more on the history of the mystic societies, while my wife enjoyed the backstories on the crowns and costumes.

Take Photos with Costumes, Masks and Hats. On the way out, we took a few minutes in the gift shop for photos wearing a variety of masks and hats. Also don’t miss the opportunity to pose as a King and Queen of Mardi Gras using the cut-out photo props. These goofy moments always turn out to be some of the most unexpected and funny photos from every trip.

Visit the Moon Pie General Store. While we didn’t find the exact story of how Chattanooga-originated Moon Pies became one of the favorite throws for Mobile mystics, we did sample a few of the small versions generally used in the parades. The gift shop had a limited selection available for purchase (and we did!). On a future trip, we’ve marked the nearby Moonpie General Store at 107 St Francis Street as a must-stop for more samples.

Eat Local Seafood. Mobile is a coastal town, and local seafood is available everywhere. We generally look at Mobile as one last opportunity to grab fresh local seafood — especially raw oysters — direct-from-the-boats on our travels back from New Orleans to Atlanta. Check your favorite restaurant review site for the most recent listings and experiences. Some of our favorites include The Half Shell Oyster House (great prices and a locals’ favorite), Felix’s Fish Camp (fancier, on the bay, but be prepared for a long wait) and Wintzell’s (local, multi-location restaurant with several convenient locations and an extensive seafood menu.)

Final Note

As a matter of transparency, I wrote this entire piece originally referring to the Mobile Mystic Societies by the better-known term, Krewes. Egads! I quickly learned that the New Orleans Krewes are based on the Mobile Mystic Societies, but the Mobile Mystics are very proud that they — not those western usurpers from The Big Easy — originated the mystic Carnival traditions in the US.

Our Top Picks for ATL Airport Dining

Airport Bites

DeanLand

-

October 8, 2017

0

UPDATED: June 2018

Ask any frequent traveler about their favorite place to eat at an airport, and the answer likely will be, “Anywhere else.” And while ATL does have its share of forgettable and regrettable airport food court offerings, there really are some good dining choices scattered from the main terminal to the international terminal, and at stops in-between.

The key to dining at ATL is how much time you have. To help you choose from the options, we’ve organized this ATL dining guide based on how long you can linger, with a bias against the usual airport chain suspects.

ATL Linger Longer Eating Locations

If you’ve skipped a flight cycle (by your choice or the choice of your airline), or if you have 2 hours or more, consider one of the upscale restaurant options. In the restaurant biz, we’d call these “polished casual” options, featuring excellent bar choices, multiple dining courses, and attentive table service.

ATL, airport, dining — **With a small, comfortable bar and open kitchen, Ecco is a welcoming destination in the International Terminal.**

Ecco, Concourse F. Situated on the second level of the international terminal, it’s almost possible to forget you’re in an airport. A small and comfortable dark-wood trimmed bar, an open display kitchen and “patio” dining give Ecco the feeling of a comfortable favorite haunt. As in most airports, a generic catering company controls the lease on the space. But hometown Fifth Restaurant Group retains the flair and flavor – literally – of the midtown original location by controlling the hiring, training, menu and service standards. On my most recent visit, I had the squid ink linguine with calamari, Calabrian chiles, anchovy sofrito and sun-dried tomatoes. (Is it weird if I admit to arriving at ATL early on occasion just to dine here?) One caution: all dine-in checks include an 18% gratuity, so beware before you finalize your payment.
Everything from the locally-sourced food, to the decor, and including the concept is unique at One Flew South. Its ATL airport-only restaurant, consistently rated among the best in the US.
One Flew South, Concourse E. While most high-end airport restaurants are remote versions of local favorites or well-known chains, One Flew South has only one location, and it’s in ATL Concourse E. Recognized by a number of sources as one of the best airport restaurants in the US, the restaurant describes its menu as Southern-national, a cross-over inspired by local foods prepared with international flair. Other than the sushi, the pimento cheese plate and salmon hot pot are among some of our favorites. But our hands-down-slap-your-mama-tell-everybody-about-it top choice is the OFS Dirty South, a meatloaf sandwich with pimento cheese, sauteed spinach, barbeque sauce and bacon topped with a fried egg. The décor is as delectable and authentic as the menu, featuring locally-sourced Cherokee marble and heart pine.
The Rest of the Best. Well-known casual chains Carrabba’s and Long Horn Steak House also operate in ATL, and you can enjoy a selection of their famous favorites for prices just slightly higher than their non-airport locations.

Faster, but Not Fast ATL Food

Pappi’s, Concourse T. This can be fast, or slow. For those in a hurry, a buffet line and fast dining menu deliver airport standards. If you want that kind of food, just eat anywhere. The Regaldo family owners are Cuban, and that’s the reason to dine at Papi’s, in the airport or the city. After living in Florida for 10 years, I didn’t think I could be impressed by a pressed Cuban sandwich elsewhere. Papi’s proved me wrong. Empanadas, fish tacos, croquetas, pastelitos, and Cuban coffee round out the short list of crowd favorites.
Atlanta’s Chris “Ludacris” Bridges gives Chicken and Beer its inspiration, name and hip-hop cred. Luda’s Chicken and Waffles feature fried chicken and a pecan waffle. The cube-lets of andouille sausage plus the whiskey maple syrup and cinnamon butter make this a foodie’s delight.
Chicken + Beer, Concourse D. Way out in the hinterlands served by the “other” airlines that are not Delta or Southwest is where you’ll find Chicken + Beer. The establishment takes its name and sponsorship from Atlanta homey Chris “Ludacris” Bridges. I dropped in one early afternoon and enjoyed Luda’s Chicken and & Pecan Waffles, which would be a foodie’s destination dish in any city – with its hint-of-spiced-batter fried chicken, pecan waffle cinnamon butter, whiskey maple syrup and bits of spicy andouille hidden behind a bed of spinach. I’d love to hear from other ATL flyers on additional menu items.
Intermezzo, Concourse B. A restaurant combined with a bookstore, this Concourse B location is a long-time ATL favorite with frequent travelers and airline crews alike. Inspired by European coffee houses and modeled after it’s in-town siblings, the airport location perfectly fits the concept’s web-based self-description: “It’s a vacation, a holiday, an “intermezzo” (intermission) between the busy acts of your life: in musical terms, it’s your rest between allegro and adagio.” And while the airport location has a more limited menu that other locations, you’ll feel just as relaxed and comfortable sitting on the faux-patio and enjoying a coffee and pastries as you would in an small café in Europe. This is often one of the least-crowded sit-down options.
Best of the Rest. For high-end burgers, both Grindhouse on Concourse T and Flyburger on Concourse B are excellent choices. Yelpers rate both at 3-Stars, which may be right when compared against the universe of burgers, but low if you’re limited to ATL. Varasano’s is the best pizza in the city, and the far-and-away best in ATL.

Fast (and Southern) Like Nascar

The Varsity, Concourse F. There’s darned little that UGA and Georgia Tech alumni agree on – except for The Varsity. In midtown Atlanta and college-town, Athens, The Varsity is legendary with generations of students, locals and visitors. When greeted with the trademarked welcome, “What’ll Y’all Have?,” real and transplanted Georgians answer with things like, “Ring one, Heavy weight sideways,” (hot dog with extra chili, onions on the side, with a side order of onion rings.) or “walk a naked dog with a bag of rags,” (one plain hot dog to go, with a side of potato chips.) Worry not if you don’t know the lingo; the menu is printed in good, old-fashioned fast-food English.
Chick Fila-A. From humble beginnings near Atlanta, home-town Chick Fil-A is now a 3,000+ store chain famous for its chicken sandwiches, waffle fries, thick milk shakes and funny commercials. A few years ago, the company reinvented its grilled chicken sandwich, successfully emulating the flavor of a back-yard grill. But if you’re passing through on Sunday, you can’t eat at Chick Fil-A. None of the company’s restaurants is open on Sunday – and that includes the NFL home to the Atlanta Falcons and ATL.
Lotta Frutta, Concourse B. Founder Myrna Perez describes it at “Pan-Latin.” We claim it as genuinely Atlantean and the healthiest option at ATL. Fruit cups and smoothies are the heart of the menu, with some sandwiches as well. However, inconsistency in the smoothies is a problem at the ATL location.
The renovation of centerpoint in Concourse D added Food Network Kitchen and Terrapin tap, both good choices for very different reasons.

ATL Second and Third Opinions

Food taste varies, literally and figuratively. We’ve personally experienced all the ATL choices listed here – and many others. But we haven’t visited all 150+ eating locations listed on the official ATL web site. Here are a few links to what others have said recently:

Trip Savvy, June 2017. Writer Akila McConnell says ATL “has some of the best airport dining you’ll find in the country.” https://www.tripsavvy.com/best-restaurants-hartsfield-jackson-international-airport-1328891

Thrill List, February 2017. Their claim: “We went concourse by concourse and picked out the places you need to hit.” https://www.thrillist.com/eat/atlanta/best-atlanta-airport-restaurants-food-hartsfield-jackson

Atlanta Journal-Constitution, November 2016. We read the AJC for local news, community events and political cartoons. We offer its ATL restaurant listing from late 2016 without an endorsement. http://atlantarestaurants.blog.ajc.com/2016/11/22/where-to-eat-at-hartsfield-jackson-international-airport/

5 Tips for Enjoying an Extended Layover in ATL

Airport Bites

DeanLand

-

September 22, 2017

0

5 Tips for Enjoying an Extended Layover in ATL

Updated: April 2019

Waiting in Atlanta’s ATL Hartsfield Jackson airport can be one of life’s frustrating experiences. Layovers and unpredictable delays allow us to experience everything from frustrated business travelers to screaming children to the unusual sights and smells associated with uncomfortable humans crowded into warm places.

So, if you find yourself with extra time in Atlanta – by plan or misfortune – here are 5 ways to relax at ATL:

Walk. If you have time, get off the main gate concourses and walk through ATL’s connector tunnels. The longest walk is a two-mile, one-way trek from the main security checkpoint to Gate F1. Once youcome down the escalators from the main terminal, it’s about a 25-minute walk to Terminal E. Since most travelers take the Plane Train or moving sidewalks, you can walk through the center tunnel at your own pace. If you want to do the full 2-miles, take the escalators up to Terminal E, then walk straight across between the food court and duty free shopping toward Gate E18. At the end are escalators and stairs down to the connector to the new International Terminal.
Get off the main gate concourses and walk through ATL’s connector tunnels. The longest walk is a two-mile, one-way trek from the Main Terminal to the International Terminal
Art. ATL’s airport art extends throughout the site. The oldest exhibit, a display of African sculpture and photography, is in the tunnel between the main terminal and Concourse A. The newest is a $4.1 million marvelous Southern wetlands experience completed in 2016 which immerses visitors into the sights and sounds of a Georgia swamp. An overhead canopy opens to a video sky full of birds, all while the soothing sounds of crickets, frogs and birds deliver a Southern serenade. The light-effect of rain drops on a pond on an exposed concrete floor can cause even the most harried traveler to stop for a reflective moment. Children’s art work from Georgia and around the world is featured in Concourses T, D and E.
History. History buffs will enjoy the Atlanta History walk between Concourses B and C, which traces the area’s evolution from the Etowah tribe through current day. Civil War and civil rights both receive substantial attention, presented from the eyes of leaders and citizens alike. Photos include everyday life, local sights, historic events and legacy advertising from local companies like Coca Cola. Overhead monitors bring multi-media experiences into the mix.
The Delta Sky Club on Concourse F offers a Sky Deck, especially if you love the small of jet fuel in the morning or the feel of heat and humidity in the afternoon.
Go Clubbing. As Delta’s primary global hub, ATL features nine Delta Sky Club locations, but few other options. Besides one American Airlines Admiral Club, the only other non-Delta option is The Club at ATL on Concourse F, open to any traveler for a daily fee. Most of the clubs offer comfortable seating, room to spread out, variety of free beverages, and for-purchase adult beverages. Food is often available, including packaged snacks, order-from-a-menu dining, and an all-day buffet in some of Delta’s larger Sky Club locations on Concourses A, B, E and F. If you’re beyond security and want to enjoy some sunlight and outdoor air, the Delta Sky Club on Concourse F offers a Sky Deck, especially if you love the smell of jet fuel in the morning or the feel of heat and humidity in the afternoon. For premium credit card holders, check with your provider as many of these (like American Express Platinum) offer club benefits that may gain free access.
Eat, Drink and Be Merry. If you have time, check out our full post on top ATL eats. Atlanta offers a broad selection of higher-end sit-down dining, airport outlets of local favorites, and the usual national chain outlets. One Flew South in Concourse E and Ecco in the International Terminal are the best choices for great food, small, comfortable bars, and a relaxed environment. Our favorite burgers are at Fly Burger on Concourse B, but many others favor Grindhouse Killer Burgers on Concourses T and D. Local institutions including the Varsity in the International Terminal, Pascals and Lotta Fruitta in Concourse B and hometown-chain Chick Fil-A located in various locations offer a taste of the town inside the airport. If you don’t have club access but still want to take the edge off with an adult beverage, good choices include Blue Moon and Sam Adams on Concourse B. You’ll get a more local vibe at Ludacris’ Chicken + Beer. For two unique airport experiences, try Terrapin Tap on Concourse B and D, featuring local beer, a cigar bar and hookah lounge; or Jay Z’s 40/40 Club at the center point of Concourse D. Local pianists are featured at the Piano Bar at the center point in Concourse E.

I Didn’t Know That

Don’t be surprised by musical artists playing a variety of locations in ATL. As part of an effort to improve passenger experience, ATL pays performing artists to play throughout in the main terminal, near security lines and on the concourses.

More for the Active Traveler

If you’re considering walking, OurTravelCafe features an extended guide to the Longest Walk In ATL. It includes a guide to the walk, distances, estimated walk times, and sites you’ll find along the way. We also share our data from our trusty Garmin VivoActive HR for the fitness-obsessed or IoT-cool.

ATL Airport Links:

Aside from the Plane Train connecting the Main Terminal, International Terminal and everything in-between, these are some of the most helpful links you’ll find about ATL:

Airport Art: http://www.atl.com/about-atl/airport-art-program/

Airport Music: The Atlanta Journal Constitution provides more information. http://www.myajc.com/news/local/musicians-add-bit-soul-hartsfield-jackson/EERDqUhnoc3QqBFS65jbsN/

Second Dining Opinion. Atlanta Thrill List offers its take on best ATL dining, from a February 2017 piece by Caroline Eubanks. https://www.thrillist.com/eat/atlanta/best-atlanta-airport-restaurants-food-hartsfield-jackson

Second Drinking Opinion. Creative Loafer offers its opinions from a December 2016 review. http://www.creativeloafing.com/food-drink/article/20846828/where-to-drink-at-the-atlanta-airport

Our Other Airport Bites

We’ve spent lots of time in airports over the years. See some of our most recent US experiences and stories here.

Perfect Planning For A Family Get-Away to Margaritaville Biloxi

Southern Fried Favorites

DeanLand

-

September 6, 2017

0

Perfect Planning For A Family Get-Away to Margaritaville Biloxi

Margaritaville, Biloxi, Mississippi, Resort, Beach — My memory may be a bit hazy . . .

My memory of the moment may be a bit hazy, but I think it was in the late 1990s when I first heard Jimmy Buffett ask during a live concert, “When did I become family entertainment?” Regardless of the specific answer, Buffett embraced the recognition and expanded his music and touring to include restaurants, a radio station, elder care, casinos and resorts.

With full transparency, I will admit to being a consumer of all-of-the-above except for elder care — and that may be a matter of time before opportunity and necessity intersect at a Margaritaville-themed adult living center. And exactly how and why we chose to waste away at the Margaritaville Biloxi resort for a late-week family retreat in June is another OurTravelCafe.Com story, involving Chicago, Alaska, trade shows, cruise lines, ambulances, hospitals, travel insurance and vertigo. (Shameless self-promotion: read it here in our “Off the Menu” section.)

Our Wednesday-to-Friday stay in Biloxi turned out to be a perfect family getaway, with kid-friendly activities for our 12-year-old and just enough distraction for us 60-something parents. So, if we could do it, consider it’s likely OK for younger parents or for grandparents traveling with kids.

Perfect Planning Tips for Margaritaville Biloxi

Here are a few planning and on-site tips that will help you enjoy a brief family stay at Margaritaville Resort in Biloxi:

Request an Upper Level Floor. While you’re at it, ask for a Western-facing room, looking back toward Biloxi and Gulfport. That combination will give you the best sunset and evening views, while sparing you the searing sunrise that many Parrotheads avoid like vampires. If you have an East-facing room, the higher floors should elevate you sufficiently to peer above the Golden Nugget next door for good views of the many boats traversing the Biloxi Bay pass between Biloxi and Ocean Springs.
Upper floors elevate you sufficiently tfor good views of the many boats traversing the Biloxi Bay pass between Biloxi and Ocean Springs.
Plan Your Elevator Travel. Getting an elevator at peak times can be as frustrating and noisy as awaiting a delayed-flight during holiday travel. Remember, during the week and summers, Margaritaville is a family-resort, full of over-energized kids ready to go to the lazy river and water slides, or to enjoy the coin-operated children’s game paradise. So, when you see a sign at the elevators warning you to allow extra time for your elevator connections, pay attention.
When you see a sign at the elevators warning you to allow extra time for your elevator connections, pay attention.
Margaritaville Mornings Are Great. We found that mornings and early afternoon were the best times to enjoy the on-roof waterpark and the gaming areas. The friendly lifeguards and game room attendants verified our personal observations. Chairs for sunning were available, floating tubes plentiful, and noise levels were sufficiently tolerable to hear the Buffett soundtracks. By early afternoon, we had our fill of semi-tropical sunshine and humidity, just as the crowds were beginning to build.
Wahoo for Wednesdays. Margaritaville Biloxi occupies the former Casino Magic location, and the adult entertainment area has been supplanted by an even more unforgiving operation: the arcade. Every kind of dollar-devouring device one can imagine is strategically located to separate parents and grandparents from the last of their available virtual coins. For your convenience, you load your player cards from your room account or credit card, allowing your children and grandchildren to play without the bother of dirty hands from old-fashioned coins. Two items of good news: Wednesday offers half-price play during certain hours (promoted as Wahoo Wednesday) and there’s an adjacent bar where adults also can use their credit cards for boat drinks.
Good news: Wednesday offers half-price play and there’s an adjacent bar for adults craving boat drinks.

Margaritaville Biloxi Box Set

I’m often told I need to update my cultural references. But what’s the current lingo for a large collection of songs issues in one release? In the “old days” way back in 1992, this was called a box set. So, by whatever name is used today, a few more observations about Margaritaville Resort and Biloxi in honor of that musical release previously known as a box set:

Boats. You’ll see lots of them moored at the marina next door, and down the coast. Charters and boat rentals are available, the nearest out the front door and between the Biloxi Margaritaville Resort and the Golden Nugget. Check out any of the local tourist haunts or publications for a wider choice of locations. Or, check out the Shrimp Trail App. If a full-size boat is too much, jet skis, kayaks, paddle boards, stand-up boards, water trikes and other assorted water toys are rented at numerous beach locations.
Beaches. Margaritaville Biloxi is located on the water, but there is no beach at the property. If you don’t have a car, it’s about .75-mile walk west along Beach Boulevard to a small beach. For the more adventurous, you can also head east across the causeway for 2.3 miles to the beach at Ocean Springs. The Casino Hopper Shuttle trolley route also passes by several beaches. If you have a car, none of this a concern as 26-miles of sandy beaches offer ample parking and easy water access. For a more natural beach and larger waves, take the Ship Island Ferry and spend the day on this uninhabited island located 12-miles off shore and accessible only by boat.
There is no beach at Margaritaville Resort in Biloxi, but 26-miles of white sandy beaches along Highway 90 offer easy parking, water access, and good sunset pictures.
Bars. As you would expect, they are easy to find and serving, frozen, shaken, mixed, and brewed concoctions of every virtually every type. Our favorite was the swim-up bar at the water park, although we did have to dispatch one of our adults back to our sunning chairs to retrieve required ID for the first drink of the day. Away from the resort and along Highway 90, eating and drinking establishments are casual, plentiful and reasonable.
Away from the resort and along Highway 90, eating and drinking establishments are casual, plentiful and reasonable.
Ballads. All the music we heard was recorded and played everywhere through the house sound system. But remember, we chose a milder Wednesday-Friday stay, intentionally avoiding the wilder weekend crowds. Live music is featured at the Margaritaville Biloxi, and you can check the hotel’s website for a live music schedule.

Biloxi Beyond Buffett-land

The combined cities of Gulfport and Biloxi stretch for 26 miles along the Gulf, all welcoming gentle waves from the Gulf of Mexico to the white-sand. You’ll find everything you want or need right on Highway 90, which runs parallel to (and within near-arm’s-reach-of) the Gulf. Casinos, restaurants and shopping are plentiful. The previously-mentioned (and below-linked) Casino Hopper Shuttle connects you to almost everything, if you don’t want to drive.

If you have some extra time, cross the causeway to the east and visit Ocean Springs, which has a quaint and picturesque main street with funky shops and reasonably-priced foods.

A hidden gem on the Gulf Coast is the John Stennis Space Center, to the west in Hancock County, MS. It’s well worth the drive to the new Infinity Science Center. Be sure to take one of the bus tours, which drive out to the huge testing areas.

Biloxi’s Main Adult Attractions

BIloxi, Mississippi, Resort — Casino resorts, often sold-out on weekends and for conventions, are eager to fill rooms during non-peak times.

Of course, gambling is the big draw to Biloxi and Gulfport, and about a dozen casinos operate from Biloxi on the east to Bay St. Louis to the east. Beau Rivage is part of the MGM group, and offers the most upscale venue in a new-Vegas style resort, eat-ertainment and shopping complex located on the beach. If you don’t have your heart set on wasting away at Margaritaville, resort bargains abound throughout the coast, especially during the week. A particularly-candid staffer we encountered at one of these establishments, the casino resorts operate at about 45% capacity, often sold-out on weekends and for conventions, but eager to fill rooms during non-peak times.

Those who drive to Biloxi on Interstate 10 will see endless billboards promoting a variety of performing artists. Most of those are offered on weekends, when the crowds get older, activities take on an adult nature, and the room rates rise.

Buffet Songs About Biloxi and Mississippi

Jimmy Buffett grew up in and around Pascagoula, MS, and many of his song reflect experiences and memories of the areas. These three include specific geographic references to the area:

Biloxi, from Changes in Latitudes, Changes in Attitudes. Slow and reflective, the song evokes memories of a childhood summer day at the beach.
Pascagoula Run, from Off to See the Lizard. This upbeat ditty is a tribute to Buffett’s uncle, a sea-going man and (apparently) a favorite in certain local establishments. What do the ladies say? Boy you’re going to see the morning son, on the Pascagoula run.
Lip Service, from Somewhere Over China. Jimmy’s got girl troubles in this album track, singing, “So listen to me baby, you gotta change your ways. Or I’m off to Pascagoula in a few more days.”

Links You Might Like

US Mississippi Gulf Coast Shrimp Trail App Eating — The Shrimp Trail App provides information on diners, driving and drives.

Shrimp Trail App. We discovered this on the drive over from New Orleans. You can read our review here, and get a link to download the app. http://ourtravelcafe.com/index.php/2017/07/23/trawling-the-shrimp-trail-mississippi/

Ship Island Ferry. Seasonal service operates from the spring through October. Check the website for a specific schedule. Currently, the ferry departs only from Gulfport, but the City of Biloxi is making a strong effort to resume service from Biloxi as well: http://msshipisland.com/

Casino Hopper Shuttle. If you don’t have a car, don’t want to drive, or think it best not to drive, the trolley-shuttle is a good option. https://coasttransit.com/casino-hopper/

Casino List. The City of Biloxi provides a handy list of all the casinos operating along the Gulf coast, with direct link to their websites: www.biloxi.ms.us/visitor-info/casinos

Stennis Space Center. Definitely worth the visit, especially if you’re kind of spacey, or if you have the kids or grandkids in tow. www.visitinfinity.com

Peddle Boat Tips at the Tidal Basin (Washington, DC)

US Roadhouse Fare

DeanLand

-

August 13, 2017

0

Peddle Boat Tips at the Tidal Basin (Washington, DC)

Walking or driving by the Tidal Basin, it’s hard to resist the idea of renting one of the peddle boats. In addition to looking like fun, peddling out on the Tidal Basin offers some great photo opportunities of the Jefferson Memorial, Washington Monument and fun on the boats.

Before heading out, here are five tips to remember for maximum fun:

Take It Easy. It’s easy to get carried away at the start and peddle like crazy. That’s a perfect way to ruin even a short rental. Peddling these boats is work, so don’t overdo it at the start. Find a nice, easy, smooth and comfortable pace, set your course, and go. Slow and steady is definitely the way to go here if you want to enjoy the outing.
Washington Monument from the Tidal Basin
Plan Your Route. The Tidal Basin is surrounded by land, bridges and other barriers. So, you’re not going to go far or explore a wild waterway. Fact is, most people just go out toward the middle, get tired, float around awhile, then peddle back. If you want the best picture options, think about making a small ellipse. Stand on the dock so the Jefferson Memorial is directly in front of you. From this vantage point, it’s best to plan traveling to your right first, directly toward the Martin Luther King Jr. Memorial. As you travel straight, the shore line will turn away from you, and the Washington Monument will come into view on your right. Stay your course and get a few shots of the Washington Monument. The King Memorial will be ahead of you, but still nearly 1/2 mile away. So depending on your stamina, you can keep peddling ahead to get a few shots of the Memorial from the Basin. But remember, for every revolution you make toward the King Memorial, it’s that much further back to the dock. Unless you’re in good shape, I suggest you turn to your left, and grab a few shots of the Jefferson Memorial instead, and drive to the King Memorial later.
Watch the Wind. If the wind is at your back when you leave the dock, you’ll get a gentle push from behind. And if you’re not aware, you may not realize how much harder it will be to peddle back toward the dock into that head wind. Trust me, it makes a difference. It’s probably better to peddle into the wind at first, then use the gentle push to get back more easily. Depending on your rental time, a gentle breeze can also allow you to stop peddling and float slowly back toward the dock.
My peddlers pooped out and just enjoyed the ride.
Bring Along Water. There’s water available at the dock, so if you don’t have some along, buy some. It’s best to get at least one bottle per person. Peddling is hard work, and a sunny spring or fall day can be deceiving.
Consider the Electric Swans. In addition to the peddle boats, there are a few electric swan boats available for rent. They are a great option if you want to go out on the Basin but don’t want the extra work of peddling the boats. Downside: Electric Swans have a strict two-person capacity, so if you’re traveling with grandchildren or children, you may have to split up, take the peddle boats, or choose another activity.

Fitness Thoughts for Active Boomers

The peddle boats really are a lot of fun — and lots of work. Don’t be surprised if your traveling companions give out on you. I had eager helpers for the first few minutes, then I was on my own for most of the peddling in our four-person boat. As long as you take your time, you can still have fun. Unless you’re in great shape, don’t let a ticking clock and the charge for a second hour force you into hurrying. Better to pay for the extra rental time than suffer the consequences of over-exertion.

I’m an active exerciser, and use a Garmin VivoActive HR to track my daily activities. My normal resting heart rate generally is around 60. During the day in normal activities, I’m generally in the 80-90 bpm range. For my cardio exercise, I’m generally averaging around 145-150 BPM. Below is my heart rate profile from noon until about 6 pm on the day we did the peddle boats. I’ve highlighted in white the period when we were on the peddle boats. The green indicates my normal active range, ~90-130 BPM, with my regular exercise “peak” zone in red. Some pretty steady effort there, with two peaks near 160 bpm while peddling alone.

Enjoy the boats, and keep your own capabilities in mind.

Green indicates my normal active range, , with my regular exercise “peak” zone in red. The two peaks are near 160 bpm, indicating some pretty strong effort.

Sunrise Hike on KeMo (Kennesaw Mountain)

DeanLand

-

August 12, 2017

0

Sunrise Hike on KeMo (Kennesaw Mountain)

Updated: March 2019

Most mornings, I sleep through sunrise or experience it during my post-gym cool-down walk. But when I have an opportunity to experience a sunrise, I prefer an elevated location so I get the optimum view of the daily grandeur.

So, when cruising, you’ll likely find me with a cup of coffee in a crow’s nest area, or at another high-elevation location. One of my traveling favorites was watching the sunrise from Piestewa (Squaw) Peak in Arizona following a pre-dawn hike and climb.

Near my Atlanta-area home, there are two excellent and well-trafficked areas for watching mountain-top sunrises. Stone Mountain, on the east side of Atlanta and outside the I-285 perimeter, is a state park that offers a variety of local lodging for visitors, and a moderate hike up the granite pluton to get an unobstructed view.

On the Northwest side of the city and outside the I-285 perimeter is Kennesaw Mountain, known as KeMo to many locals, and home to the nationally most-visited US national battlefield.

With a prominence of approximately 1,000 feet over the surrounding area and multiple easy-to-moderate hiking options, KeMo is great as a dawn-watching location.

**KeMo is a great observation point for sunrise. It’s the most-visited national battlefield in the US, but you can find some private time at the peak at sunrise.**

For a pre-dawn hike, I recommend taking the automobile road that winds around the mountain 1.8 miles from parking lot to near the peak. There are several hiking trails around the base and up the mountain that offer wooded routes and merge near the peak. But for me, the paved road up virtually eliminates the chances of an encounter with any of the 6 species of poisonous snakes that inhabit Georgia, including the copperhead, timber rattlesnake and pygmy rattlesnake frequently found in the NW Georgia area. I usually take one of the wooded trails down the mountainside when I can see anything that creeps, crawls, walks or slithers among the leaves, underbrush and wooded trail side.

If you arrive at the peak a few minutes before sunrise, you’ll experience the natural beauty of a daybreak sunrise. It’s magical to watch the twinkling transition of the surrounding metropolitan area’s awakening from street and building lights to the early hues of morning sunlight.

Walking up the road at about the 0.9 mile point, there is a scenic overlook offering a pre-dawn view of downtown Atlanta approximately 19 miles South. If you’re running behind schedule, stop to take some well-framed pictures using the trees and shrubs creatively. Otherwise, just keep going, as a broader panorama is available from several vantage points at the peak.

KeMo is a wooded mountain, so there is no 360-degree view at the top. But there are excellent views of the Southern vista and Atlanta from near the automotive parking area, and also a bit further up the wooded trail at the actual peak.

**On a clear day, you can see downtown Atlanta twinkling about 19 miles South. But remember, you’re in the South and humidity hangs heavily in the air, often making for hazy or foggy views.**

At the peak, if you are looking at the informational sign facing Atlanta to your South, the sun will rise from your left, coming up from a lower point that makes it look like you’re higher than the sun. A view to the North overlooks the foothills of the Smokey Mountains to the Northeast. Remember, though, you’re in the South, and humidity often hangs in the air, generally creating hazy or foggy views which can limit visibility — and create some very interesting photography effects.

As mentioned, there are multiple options for walking down in the daylight. The direct route down is shorter, exactly one mile on the Kennesaw Mountain trail. The trail is easy to follow and you’ll see lots of climbers heading up as you walk down.

If you want to extend the sunrise jaunt into a longer hike, there are posted maps available outside the visitor center and others available inside during opening hours. I’d recommend you download your maps in advance as the visitor center frequently is out of the high-demand maps. Most trails begin or cross at the visitor center, which also offers ranger programs, a video, other programs and indoor restrooms. Generally, trails are 3-5 miles, although several can be joined together to create 10+ mile options.

If You Go:

Park Hours. KeMo is a daylight-hours only park, and park times vary by season. You can find the seasonal hours on the website. Though it’s not published and not consistent, rangers open the gates to the parking area about 30 minutes before sunrise. If you park at the remote lot on Hwy 41, be sure you have a flashlight as the parking area and sidewalk are extremely dark.

Watch Your Step. Except for the automobile road and portions of the perimeter trails, most trails are natural and not paved. So, be careful as protruding roots, rocky areas, loose stones and mud can make footing uncertain in places. And remember that you’re in the native habitat to multiple poisonous snakes along with a variety of other critters, so keep your eyes open.

Special Activities. With its proximity to Atlanta and easy access, KeMo hosts lots of special activities and programs. Those include Civil War re-enactments and encampments, infantry and artillery demonstrations, walking tours, nature programs and more. The park website generally has an up-to-date schedule.

Bring Supplies and Leave Nothing Behind. There are limited public facilities at the battlefield, so carry in your water and food. During summer months, there may be a concession stand open in the parking lot at the top of the mountain, but I wouldn’t count on it. And, as always, please help preserve the natural landscape and public area by taking all your garbage and belongings out of the park when you leave.

Locals Know:

Field of Flags. Each September, the Kiwanis Club of Marietta commemorates 9-11 and remembers the victims, placing one commemorative flag across the KeMo plain for each victim of 9-11. The multi-day commemoration also includes activities in nearby Marietta. The flags are illuminated nightly by powerful flood lights, both a truly beautiful and mournfully sad sight. The event attracts thousands of people over the multi-day schedule, so be prepared for heavier-than-usual traffic, difficult parking and crowds in the limited public facilities at the park.

Big Shanty, All Aboard! If you dragged your kids or grandkids up the mountain at sunrise and they happen to be train enthusiasts, spend a part of the remaining day at the Southern Museum of Civil War and Locomotive History in downtown Kennesaw (829 Cherokee St NW, Kennesaw, GA 30144). It’s the home of the General, the locomotive made famous in the Great Locomotive Chase. There’s other local railroad history, an extensive display of railroad and Civil War exhibits, and a children’s play area suitable for toddlers. Visitors can see the beautifully-restored General, but boarding is allowed only during limited special exhibits. (History lesson: Big Shanty was the original name of the town of Kennesaw.)

Insider Food Tip:

Basecamp. 1718 Old 41 Hwy NW, Marietta, GA 30060. Approximately 0.6 miles on Old Highway 41, you’ll find a Southern comfort food dining treasure – Basecamp. It’s located in an old Sinclair service station, and expanded in 2017 with the addition of a large dining area. It’s operated by the same folks who own The Local in Marietta.

More Following These Photos . . .

The direct route down is exactly one mile from peak to parking lot on the Kennesaw Mountain trail. The trail is easy to follow and you’ll see lots of walkers and some runners heading up as you walk down.

**KeMo is a wooded mountain, so there is no 360-degree view at the top. But there are excellent views and some nice photos to be captured with a little creativity.**

**Be careful on all trails as protruding roots, rocky areas, loose stones and mud can make footing uncertain in places.**

Final Fitness Thoughts for Active Boomers Considering This Walk

If you’re not certain of your cardio fitness or stamina, you may not want to do this walk before dawn when few people are around. And, walking isn’t the only way up during the park’s operating hours. Monday through Friday, the automobile road is open for driving. And on weekends, the National Park Service operates a shuttle service from the visitor center to near the peak, for a fee, of course.

I use a Garmin VivoActive HR to track my physical activities. I find this to be a fun walk, although I will admit to huffing, puffing and some periods of elevated heart rate when pushing up at a brisk pace. This morning, I walked parking lot to peak at a brisk pace 16:43 minutes-per-mile, reaching the peak in just under 30 minutes while gaining 610 feet of elevation over the ~1.8 mile road walk. That was good for an average moving speed of 3.7 mph, and the equivalent of climbing 59 flights of stairs. My average heart rate was 119 BPM, with a maximum of 152 BPM.

My Garmin VivoActive HR tracks my physical activities. This morning, my 16:43 minute-per-mile pace allowed me to cover the 1.76 miles up the trail while gaining 610 feet of elevation. That was good for 59 floors of climbing.

DAY: Fast and Efficient

Airport Bites

DeanLand

-

August 8, 2017

0

My favorite thing about Dayton International Airport, DAY: efficiency. On a recent trip, I left for the airport a mere 1:15 prior to my scheduled flight. In my home airport of ATL, I couldn’t get from the terminal to the gate in that time. But in Dayton, I drove 11 miles, returned my rental car, walked to the terminal, checked a bag, cleared security, stopped for coffee, intentionally walked the half-mile longest-route-possible around the terminal to get some steps in, and then settled into a seat at my gate. Total elapsed time: 30 minutes, leaving 45 minutes to wait for departure.

The trade-off: There’s not much to do in the Dayton airport except be efficient in getting through it. That said, here are a few other observations about DAY:

Longest Walk. Once past security, the two concourses are in a U-shape. One lap around the entire secured area is only .55 miles, so you’ll have to be determined to get your steps in, even with the extra time you’ll likely have due to all that efficiency in arriving.
Smooth entry and exit. The airport is located near the intersection of Interstates 70 and 75, one of the crossroads of America. That makes it easy to get in and out. Downtown Dayton is less than 10 miles away, and it’s also less than 2 hours to Indianapolis, Columbus, or Cincinnati. If you’re traveling to the heartland, you may want to check out DAY options as an alternate airport for lower fares.
Civic pride. The concourses feature informative signs promoting local attractions. OK, so you’re saying, “Dayton? Attractions?” Yes, so pay
Local coffee shop Boston Stoker is the best choice for a cup-o-joe.

attention to the signs that highlight 5-Rivers Parks, Boonshoft, Carillon Park, the US Air Force Museum and more. Helpful videos and literature are (generally) available.
Local coffee shop. Along with the usual assortment of forgettable airport shops and chain restaurants you’ll find two Boston Stoker Coffee locations in the terminal — one before and one after security. Boston Stoker was founded in Dayton in 1973 and has grown to 10 regional outlets. While you also will find two Starbucks locations, stop by and sample Boston Stoker. And if you don’t visit their stores, at least visit their website, where they feature some interesting information about their history, commitment to roasting, and more: https://bostonstoker.com/

That’s it for the airport. Not many words are required to describe efficient. If you want a few ideas after you leave the airport, come back later for an upcoming post: A Great Day in Dayton.

Interesting Links:

Some of the locations promoted on those helpful airport signs are worth a visit in person, or a virtual visit in advance for those planning a visit.

US Air Force Museum, Dayton’s top visitor attraction and definitely worth a few hours: http://www.nationalmuseum.af.mil/
5 Rivers Park and other Dayton Metro Parks: https://www.metroparks.org/
Boonshoft Museum, a great place for kids to explore nature: https://www.boonshoftmuseum.org/
Carillon Historical Park, features multiple Dayton history exhibits, a brewery and restaurant and more. https://www.daytonhistory.org/

Shopping for an Alaskan Surprise

US Roadhouse Fare

DeanLand

-

August 2, 2017

1

For our 30th wedding anniversary, we decided to book an Alaskan cruise, our first cruise in 25 years. We both agreed that the cruise would be our mutual gift. But on-board, an idea was born.

Without any specific plans for our first day at-sea, we explored the ship, tried the gym, and walked the decks. Around mid-afternoon, we decided to take in the shopping tips presentation by our cruise director. My wife gave this activity her utmost attention, while I fought off a mid-afternoon sleepy period and the urge to spring to the stern and throw myself into the ship’s wake.

After about the fourth or fifth lap around the gem-buying lecture world, the seed of an idea began to emerge — what if I surprised my wife with an on-shore shopping excursion to upgrade her wedding ring?

When we were engaged more than 30 years prior, we were both college students. We both had jobs (and I had three — working a paid position on the college newspaper, refereeing intramural football and basketball, and covering high school sports in-person or over the phone with called-in reports). Translation: poor. And the selection of our engagement and wedding rings had to reflect that low financial status, despite the high hopes for marriage and future financial reward.

The selection of our engagement and wedding rings reflected our low financial status, despite high hopes for marriage and future.

And so it was that two days later, with my limited knowledge of jewelry, a port map and an American Express card, we disembarked in Juneau, Alaska. With a helicopter tour to Mendenhall Glacier scheduled for early afternoon, we had a morning free — or so my wife thought. Like many, we walked the dock-side shops for a few minutes, then ducked into Diamonds International as a light drizzle began to dampen our jackets. Less than two minutes later, we were greeted and offered endless help by an eager young man with a seemingly endless knowledge of all things jewelry and an equal enthusiasm for telling stories of happy couples he had helped. My wife strolled through the store with our new human appendage always close by. I suggested — and he insisted — that she try on a few rings. As she warmed up to the store and the idea of staying out of a now-heavier rain, we edged around the counter to the diamond section.

My wife strolled through the store with our new human appendage always close by.

That’s when I made the suggestion — why don’t we upgrade your wedding ring? I’m not sure who was more surprised and excited, my wife or our young diamond-adoptee. For my wife’s part, she protested modestly, thinking I was just joking around. After all NEVER had I EVER suggested the voluntary idea of shopping for jewelry, much less to buy a new wedding ring. After a few minutes, she realized I was serious. (Men, now think about this: would you ever take your wife into a jewelry store and merely joke about buying jewelry? Not if you valued your own jewels and your life!)

Would you take your wife into a jewelry store and merely joke about buying jewelry? Not if you valued your jewels and your life!

Rings were examined, tried and put away. Settings were inspected and rejected. And if I thought I had heard everything about diamonds from our cruise director, I was proven wrong within minutes. Discussions of cut, clarity, color and karats gave way to the most important question of the day: cash or card? And with a purchase of this size, there was never a question that I wanted the purchase protections that come with an American Express card! We closed out the details, made an appointment to inspect, pick up and make the final payment on the ring later in the day. Then we rejoined the throngs on the street while my wife’s bright smile lit the Alaskan landscape.

US Alaska Juneau shopping diamonds — **After some time being helped by our new human appendage, we selected the perfect upgraded wedding ring.**

Readers, you my recognize that I usually offer tips in these posts. This is no exception. But ladies, I ask that you skip this section and move to the end of the story. Guys, keep reading here.

Tips for a Successful Vacation Shopping Surprise

Have an idea. If you’ve paid attention during the vacation planning process, there’s likely been many great ideas tossed at you. Things to do. Places to go. Great buys authentically available at a favorite destination. Murano glass in Venice. Cuckoo clocks or hand-carved Nativity scenes from a German Christmas market. Swiss chocolates. Exquisite folding fans in Japan. Tea in China. If you know a guy who knows a local guy, pearls from one of the night markets elsewhere in Southeast Asia. (And forget that French Maid outfit idea you had for the Paris visit.)
Make a plan. Do this In advance. When you have time to think it through and do some research. Not enroute. Or on a ship, with no internet connection.
Act. And by this I mean to both follow-through and playact. Make it mysterious. Make it fun. But just do it.
Forget second guessing. It’s over. And you’ve likely scored really big points in the relationship department. Enjoy the moment and any benefits that may come to you. Forget about the other consequences. Yes, you may have over-paid a bit. You might have found something better if you looked and compared more. But unless you dropped major cash on a sketchy counterfeit you found after you were blindfolded and hustled through noisy alleys, it’s going to be OK.

The End of the Story

Wonderful trips always make for wonderful memories. With today’s cameras, we capture many of them digitally, thinking we’ll enjoy them over and over. Surprises, big and small, make them even more special. So wherever you’re going, whatever you’re planning, try something spontaneous and surprising. You’ll be glad you did.