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Civil War Spy’s Widow: Heroics and Hardship in Georgia

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While the Civil War marked the most divisive time in our nation’s history, divisions within the successionist Confederate states often get overlooked. Yet, thousands of United States sympathizers found themselves trapped within the boundaries of the Confederacy, including free persons of color.

As Union troops fought their way through the South, those sympathizers often aided the United States. Attempting to live normal lives in the new Confederacy, they ignored or accepted great risks.

On June 27, defeated Confederates fled from the Battle of Kennesaw Mountain. The Union Army followed quickly, and by early July 1864, General Sherman set up headquarters in Marietta.

The Johnsons of Marietta

Monemia and James Johnson, both free people of color, lived in Marietta during the Civil War period. Monemia was born a free woman of color, while James may have been a former slave. She and James established themselves as successful entrepreneurs in Marietta. They were among approximately 2,100 African Americans living in Cobb County at that time, most of whom were enslaved prior to the war.

A passage in a National Parks blog shares this account: “Monemia ran a restaurant and store and her husband, James, was a barber. James’ treasonous dealings with a white Union spy, Henry Cole, led him to flee to the city of Nashville, Tennessee.”

A Yale University doctoral thesis by Bennett Parten in 2022 included more details:

“Mr. Johnson did all his espionage from behind his barber’s chair. He trimmed the beards of Confederate officers and enlisted men. Braxton Bragg, then the overall commander of Confederate forces in Georgia, was once even a customer. Little did these loose-lipped soldiers know that as Mr. Johnson cropped
and combed, he also listened and learned. He memorized place names, troop movements, and
casualty counts.

A Civil War Spy Flees

According to multiple accounts, James Johnson shared his learned secrets with Marietta resident and Union sympathizer Henry Cole. Then, Cole, a prominent white businessman, would arrange to pass information northward. He often used locals, including James Johnson, to sneak the secrets through Confederate territory and through Union lines to those commanding generals.

Sherman’s advance through Georgia was aided by information from James Johnson. But when he was discovered, he fled North before Union troops arrived to fight at Kennesaw Mountain. (Image, Library of Congress, General Sherman’s attack on the enemy center.)

Cole himself corroborated James Johnson’s spy work, in testimony after the war. “Johnson was a loyal man. I have this opinion upon various act of his. He was a barber and shaved Bragg, Cheatham and other rebel generals. When he would pick up any information, he would come to me and I would send it through the lines to the Union Army. I sent Johnston through the lines with important information regarding the movements of the rebel army. I sent him once to Gens Thomas and Rosecrans with information on the approach of Longstreet just before the Battle of Chickamauga.”

“I sent Johnson through the lines with important information before Chickmauga.”

— Henry Cole, Marietta

Unfortunately for James Johnson, someone discovered his treachery. He fled with Confederates in pursuit. Crossing through battle lines, Johnson reached Chattanooga, then proceeded to Nashville. There, he settled in a military refugee camp. But his luck ran out. Before he could return home following Union victories in Georgia, he contracted small pox and died.

Life Goes On

With James gone, Monemia’s life became more difficult as a single mother raising three young children. Despite the challenges of wartime occupation and blatant discrimination by the white community, the determined mother continued to build a successful life in wartime Marietta. By day, she operated a restaurant and store. By night, the establishment became an informal saloon, frequented mostly by occupying Union soldiers. Her two oldest children, Isabella, 16, and William, 9, likely helped with the business. Lou Ella was the youngest at age three.

With her business doing well, Monemia became a frequent customer of farms and suppliers in Marietta and surrounding Cobb County. To supply her store and restaurant, she consistently purchased a wide array of goods for resale. Tobacco, clothing, bacon, syrup, sugar, and flower, accounted for most of her purchases, according to her own inventory. She also owned two buildings and an extensive set of cookware for her restaurant. And she traded in cows, chickens, ducks, turkeys and hogs, too.

The Marietta Military College trained officers for the Confederacy before the war. Once General Sherman arrived, in became a hospital and barracks by Union forces. (Image: Library of Congress)

Marietta Burns

On June 27, 1864, defeated Confederates fled from the Battle of Kennesaw Mountain. The Union Army occupied Marietta, where General Sherman set up headquarters. The presence of the Yankees boosted the entrepreneurial fortunes of Monemia and her small family, at least temporarily.

But her life, and those of all who lived in Marietta, changed tragically in November 1864. The Union Army withdrew from Marietta, looting and burning the city in the process. Homes, businesses and lives perished in the flames.

Monemia stood helplessly and wartched the horror. She remembered and described the incidents in detail. She recounted in her own words how United States soldiers belonging to General Kilpatrick’s command stole everything she owned:

Monemia Johnson described in great detail during her sworn testimony about the actions of Union soldiers during the plunder of her home and property.

“The things were all taken on one day, in the day and night time. The soldiers began to take the things about dusk and kept on until all was taken. This was about the time the Army was leaving where the town was evacuated. There were some 20 or more soldiers present at the taking, who took the things and carried them on to the wagons. Before they leave, the men said Gen Kilpatrick had ordered them to come and take the things as the Army was short of supplies and needed the things. The men were all in the house and one would take one thing and on another. One of the soldiers had two stripes on his arm and the men called him Lieutenant. This was going on while the soldiers were setting fire to the town. . . The men took everything they could get their hands on.”

“There were some 20 or more soldiers. They took everything they could get their hands on . . . while setting fire to the town.”
— Testimony of Monemia Johnson

“I saw the bacon, lard, tallow, syrup, sugar, tea, coffee, salt, candles, tobacco, wine, preserves, flour, rice beans, turkeys, ducks, hogs, cows, beds and bedding, clothing, crockery, wood and lumber taken by United States soldiers.”

“That night and the next day, the town was burned.”

Left With Nothing

Afterwards, Monemia and her children were left with nothing, sharing a fate with others in Marietta. In the years following, her strong determination and business savvy helped her and her family recover. Eventually, she rebuilt a two-room cottage on her property. She earned small amounts of money and goods from teaching.

As they did all through the Georgia campaign, General Sherman’s troops burned the city of Marietta and destroyed the railroad line. Monemia Johnson, her children and other Marietta citizens were left with nothing. (Image: Library of Congress)

The Southern Claims Commission, also known as the Commissioners of Claims, formed through an act of Congress on March 3, 1871. The commission was to “receive, examine, and consider the claims of those citizens who remained loyal adherents to the (Union) cause and the government of the United States during the war, for stores or supplies taken or furnished during the rebellion.”

President Ulysses S. Grant appointed three commissioners to oversee the task. Their special agents investigated claims from citizens.

Commission records in the National Archives indicated that 54 claims originated in Cobb County. By the deadline of March 1879, the Commission received more than 20,000 claimes. The claims required evidence such as depositions, testimonials from neighbors and family, receipts, and personal interviews.

Seeking to Recover

How Monemia learned of the commission and claim process isn’t clear. But she acted quickly. In April 1871, a three-page letter was sent on her behalf to the Claims Commission. Henry Cole, who had used her husband to pass along stolen secrets to the Union Army, was listed as a witness and also signed the document. Cole would continue aiding Monemia throughout the claim process.

Monemia Johnson’s claim included an itemized list of 24 separate items taken by Union soldiers. Local merchant Leader McLellan provided the estimated values of the items, and totaled $2592.

Following submission of the claim letter, the claim process required taking sworn statements from the claimant and witnesses. On Oct. 25, 1872, Monemia and her witnesses provided detailed accounts to investigators at sessions in Marietta and Acworth. Investigating commissioners used a standardized form with 43 questions to guide the interviews of Monemia and her witnesses. Marietta attorney William T. Wynn represented Monemia.

Those testifying for Monemia included:

  • Henry Cole, the Marietta businessman who engaged James Johnson as a spy and who would donate property for the US National Cemetery.
  • Dix Fletcher, a local farmer who had known the Johnsons for more than 20 years.
  • Chaucy Brown, who listed his occupation as servant, and testified to living with Monemia and her family for approximately 10 years.
  • Dillard Young, a Marietta retail trader, who had known the Johnsons for 25 years.
  • Leander McLellan, a Marietta merchant. McLellan knew Monemia, and provided the retail values of the goods lost.

When testimony concluded, the final application totaled 21 pages of detailed handwritten information. An accompanying inventory included 24 detailed lines of destroyed and stolen items, plus the estimated value of each. The final claim amount totaled $2,592.10. (That’s equivalent to $82,343.50 in 2025 dollars, according to a CPI inflation calculator.) Investigators filed the documents with the Southern Claims Commission through the Marietta post office on Nov. 7, 1872

The Long Wait

Nothing happened fast in 1872. Mail moved by carriages and trains. All documents required reading, processing and filing by government clerks. And with more than 20,000 claims reaching Washington before the deadline period, one can only imagine the Herculean administrative challenge.

Monemia waited years for any response. During that time, she worked as a teacher. And she managed to rebuild a two-room cottage on her property in Marietta.

By Sept. 1877, her patience had worn out. She returned to attorney William T. Winn and submitted an inquiry to the commission. She wrote:

My claim was filed nearly four years ago. Please inform me why this long delay.

–Monemia Johnson

“My claim number 1832 for $2,592.10 was filed nearly four years ago. I learned it has been in the hands of Commissioner Aldis about three years. Please inform me why this long delay.”

“I invested my Confederate money in property and supplies, trusting to the protection of the United States Army.”

“They took all from me without any compensation and my two houses were burned with the balance of the town. I would be greatly obliged by your early attention to my claim.”

Finally, An Answer

Whether the claims process had run its course or Monemia’s letter stirred action, she received notice of a settlement in July 1878. Nearly five and a half years had passed since filing the original claim and nearly 14 years since the tragic loss of her property.

Claim No. 1601, noted as “Claims of Loyal Citizens for Supplies furnished during the Rebellion,” totaled $246.00. After adjustments for inflation, that equals to only $7,814.71 in 2025 dollars.

Nearly 14 years after the loss of her home and property, Monemia Johnson received $246.00 from the United State government. Her original claim amount was $2,592.10.

The official reply that accompanied the payment included this explanation:

“Much that was taken was mere pillage. What was really and properly taken for army use we allow. No satisfactory proof as to quantities. All merely is estimate and depending chiefly on claimant’s testimony. No such stock of goods as is claimed could have bee in her little saloon. . . We allow $246.”

The settlement had to be a disappointment to Monemia. After trusting in the protection of the Union army, then enduring the loss of all her possessions as a result of their unnecessary destructive actions, she received less than 10 cents on the dollar.

This excerpt is taken from the remarks included in the Commission records. Despite the sworn testimony provided, Commissioners doubted Monemia’s claims about the quantity of goods which were taken by soldiers, and discounted some as “mere pillage.”

More On This Story

We relied primarily on three sources for information presented here. Originally, we found a mention of the Johnsons on a National Park Service blog. We followed that up with the dissertation of a Yale graduate student, Bennett Paren, written in 2022. “Somewhere Toward Freedom: Sherman’s March and the History of Emancipation” includes the story of the Johnsons in pages 13-53.

And most helpful, we downloaded and transcribed information from the original claim documents filed by Monemia Johnson, her attorney and her witnesses. This we found in the genealogy database, Fold3, which we accessed using our (FREE!) Cobb County Library Card access. If you log into the Fold3 database through the library or our own subscription, you should find all the files associated with Monemia Johnson’s claim at this link. There, you’ll see the full 45-page claim history, from filing to payment, including testimony in Monemia’s own words.

We sourced images from the US National Archives and other public domain sources, including historic copies of Harper’s Weekly. For one image, we used the artificial intelligence function within web service Canva.com to create an illustration of soldiers looting Monemia’s store. We labelled that in the caption.

Marietta businessman and Union sympathizer Henry Cole, who apparently helped Monemia with her claim, filed two claims of his own. Ultimately combined into one by the Commission, Cole sought $14,950 in reimbursement. He ultimately received $14,375 in compensation in 1876, two years before Monemia’s paid claim. You can read details of Cole’s claim by logging into Fold3.com (on your own, or FREE at the Cobb Library) and clicking this link.

New Orleans Cruise on Norwegian Getaway

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When most people think of cruising, Port Canaveral on Florida’s east coast or Miami and Fort Lauderdale often is the chosen departure port. But for another convenient option, don’t overlook a New Orleans cruise. Fares may be lower for a New Orleans cruise down the Mississippi River, which offers a unique and fascinating journey.

After many years of traveling to Florida ports, we recently completed a journey on Norwegian Getaway on a New Orleans cruise. We made the easy drive from our Atlanta-area home to New Orleans. Surprisingly it’s approximately equal drive in time as Port Canaveral. We paid hundreds of dollars less for each passenger in our party as compared to a similar Florida-departing cruise. And we enjoyed a less-crowded ship after reveling in some New Orleans entertainment and food, too.

Downtown New Orleans from our New Orleans cruise ship
We paid hundreds of dollars less for each passenger on our New Orleans cruise as compared to similar voyages from Port Canaveral and other Florida cruise ports.

Down the Mississippi

The daylight cruise down the meandering and historic Mississippi River enthralled us. The river twists, turns and almost meets itself before disappearing in as a brownish tide into the deep, blue Gulf.

Now, as Louisiana natives, the Mississippi River portion of our New Orleans cruise was especially memorable. At the foot of Canal Street, we waved goodbye on our New Orleans cruise. Amazing views of downtown and the historic Jackson Square in the French Quarter revealed themselves. Further downriver, we passed the site of the Battle of New Orleans, sugar and chemical manufacturing facilities and more ferries, tugs, barges, crewboats and ocean-going ships than we cared to count.

As Louisiana natives, the Mississippi River portion of our New Orleans cruise was especially memorable. We watched history go by, sailing past the Chalmette Battlefield, where in 1812, Native Americans, pirates and backwoods hunters defeated the British.

As darkness approached on the river, we stood on our balcony and marveled as our river pilot navigated downriver. We glided around a 90-degree bend, effortlessly and silently slipping past a huge upriver-bound freighter – all with other ships anchored in the river nearby!

Onboard the Getaway

After leaving the US on our New Orleans cruise, we spent a sea day aboard the splendid Norwegian Getaway. We’ll say here that this was our first Norwegian cruise. Previously we’ve cruised Holland America (our most frequent line), Royal Caribbean, Princess, Cunard and Carnival. We’d compare Norwegian directly and favorably with Royal Caribbean, as the ships, amenities and vibes are similar. So, expect active families, but also to be thoroughly entertained, well-fed and comfortably quartered in well-appointed cabins. (Click here to jump to our direct comparison to other cruise line experiences!)

While we’re accustomed to smaller ships on Holland America, we found Norwegian Getaway a comfortable and pleasant home for a week. It never felt as crowded or hectic as a Royal Caribbean mega-ship.

Our “public” ports included stops at Costa Maya, Roatan and Cozumel. Frankly, the port experiences are no different than on any cruise line. Enjoying a beach outing or other excursion, the experience largely was similar to other lines. It’s was easy and convenient to book an excursion with a cruise line. At the dock, there were more options and lower costs, but always with the risk of getting left behind. (While we didn’t do it this time, we often book our excursions through TripAdvisor and Viator. We also noticed — too late for this cruise — that Costco is again offering excursions after dropping the service during Covid.

Ports of Call

In Costa Maya, we joined a tour of Mayan ruins at Chacchoben, or “place of the red corn.” After a one-hour bus transfer, we reached the not-fully-excavated site of large temples and massive platform groups. Our guide led us on the circular path that includes excavated and restored pyramids, as well as walls and staircases. Overhead, a few howler monkeys loudly disrupted the sound of jungle birds. (We had a momentary scare when a mobility-challenged member of our group unwisely chose to climb the uneven stone stairs and fell. While he was unhurt, it’s a reminder to know and recognize your abilities and limitations when choosing or pursuing excursions. And, if you find yourself feeling uncomfortable, just talk to your guide. They’ll likely be able to suggest an accommodation.)

At Chacchoben Ruins, one of our fellow cruisers unwisely choose to climb some uneven stone stairs (not these!) He fell. Reminder: recognize your abilities and limitations, and let your guide know if you’re uncomfortable.

At Roatan, a port which we had visited previously, we selected a relaxing day visiting a coconut farm and processing facility. What we didn’t see was that it also included a stop at a “straw market.” That turned out to be a cheesy souvenir trap where tourist boats depart for reef and mango grove tours.

Private Island

Our stop in Belize featured Norwegian’s “private port” at Harvest Caye, the only port in Belize with a cruise ship dock rather than requiring a tender ride to shore. The 75-acre private resort spreads across two islands, and offers pools, beaches, wildlife walks and lots of other free activities. If you’ve experienced the “private islands” of other lines, this stop is most comparable to Royal Caribbean’s “Perfect Day at Coco Cay.”

Harvest Caye is NCL’s private island stop, complete with beaches, pools, wildlife walks and lots of food and beverage options. We enjoyed some close-up photography in the butterfly house.

There’s also a full range of the port excursions accessible, without the hustle and bustle of a busy shared port. We chose a small-boat nature and jungle tour on Monkey River. The bumpy ride across open water in white-capped seas proved a bit harrowing and very wet due to windy conditions. But we really didn’t mind the cool ocean spray blowing into the boat constantly.

Disembarking and Pro Tip

We did find that Norwegian’s disembarking process was always efficient since we were docked rather than tendering. In Cozumel, we docked nearer to the downtown area than all other lines, which made it easy to walk into town. We’re not sure if that’s always the case with Norwegian, or if that’s a port decision based on dock availability.

After watching the New Orleans phenomena of a sunrise over the west bank of the Mississippi, we learned a few things about disembarking. Don’t miss our cruise terminal pro-tip in the article.

One more port note, and that’s on the return of our New Orleans cruise. After disembarking, claiming luggage and clearing customs, we encountered a long, snaking, slow-moving line approaching the arrival terminal. Frustratingly, lots of the New Orleans cruise terminal doors were closed and blocked by security guards who refused to let us out to the street. As it turned out, the line was for group transportation and taxis, which we didn’t need. So, pro tip, if you’ve parked your car or have another pre-arranged ride, just bypass that line New Orleans cruise terminal line — despite the evil stares you’ll get.

Cruise Line Comparisons

We promised some comparisons, so here goes. Recognize that all comments are based on our experiences, preferences and requirements. Thus, this may not apply equally to your situation. Plus, full disclosure, our preferred line is Holland America, where we enjoy a top-level loyalty status (Click this link for a video of our recent Panama Canal cruise on HAL). On other lines, we’re just regular passengers.

Though our preferred cruise line is Holland America, we were well-pleased with our NCL cruise from New Orleans. The 7-day itinerary proved to be a great value and wonderful experience.

We’ve found that the secret to cruising is understanding the type of vacation you want, then selecting the right type of voyage and cruise line in accordance with that. Those critical actions virtually assure your expectations will be met and that unwanted surprises are avoided. While different people likely would describe their views differently, following is how we group (and rank, in order) the experiences we expect on the lines we’ve travelled (so far) AND would travel again without any hesitation:

Elegance, luxury, comfort, service, culinary relaxed, informative: Holland America, Cunard

Comfort, luxury, culinary, entertainment, activity: Princess, Celebrity

Comfort, entertainment, activity, high-energy: Royal Caribbean, Norwegian

Never again: Carnival

Comparing Norwegian

As noted above, we directly compare Royal Caribbean and Norwegian. They deliver active, high-energy family vacations where you’ll enjoy comfort, entertainment and an incredible on-board experience. Both lines feature fun-filled ships, with all the latest in on-board activities. You’ll find water slides, go-cart tracks, ziplining, boogie boarding, and an incredible variety of entertainment.

Overall, we’d give Royal Caribbean’s mega-ships the edge in onboard entertainment and activities. But we found the Norwegian Getaway to feel less crowded.

For onboard entertainment and kids activities, we’d give Royal Caribbean a slight edge, especially on the newest mega-ships in the Royal Caribbean line. Aboard the 5,700-to-6,900-passenger Wonder of the Seas we occasionally felt cramped or crowded. But we found the 3,900 passenger Norwegian Getaway to be less crowded in all important areas, even on sea days. The only time we felt a little crowded on the Getaway was on boarding day. Everyone was required to be onboard 2 hours before sailing time but most of the cabins were not yet ready for occupancy. Then, it was a little “snug” around many public areas.

Food and Beverage

In the food category, we thoroughly enjoyed the “freestyle” dining of Norwegian. That means you can just “show up” during open hours at the buffet, dining rooms and casual dining locations. And it means there’s no strict dress code at those locations either. Now, that might bother some more traditional cruisers who enjoy the elegance of dressing for dinner and the people watching that goes along with it. But freestyle also means you can dress up to formal wear, gala wear or “resort casual” style. And when you do, you’ll really stand out among the fancy crowd to your fellow cruisers.

Though the culinary offerings and service didn’t measure up to our favorite Holland America Line, main dining room fare included some fine dining-style dishes and desserts.

We also found Norwegian’s food offerings to be comparable to that which we enjoyed on Royal Caribbean. Main dining room fare included some fine dining-style dishes and desserts, though sides offered were more ordinary. The service didn’t measure up to higher-end cruise lines, nor did the tableside presentation, variety or culinary “wow.”

Specialty Dining

Our experience in “specialty dining” (at an extra charge) truly was hit-or-miss.  The seafood-centric Ocean Blue delivered an outstanding food experience that we’d match against any we’ve enjoyed, even on the high-end lines.

The entertainment and food quality at the shared table Teppanyaki was enjoyable, too. Our chef was entertaining and energetic, amazing us by juggling raw eggs. He also checked twice with everyone regarding food allergies before starting, and made a point of checking again before serving the cooked items. Servers seemed to be stretched thinly across lots of tables, so they could have been more attentive to our drink replenishments.

Our entertaining chef at the specialty outlet Teppanyaki juggled, sang, and drummed a beat, all while delivering fantastic food.

But our experience at Cagney’s Steakhouse proved truly disappointing. Though the steaks were tender and moist, they lacked any sort of charbroiled or grilled flavor, even when consumed with one of the sauces.

That said, overall and consistently, the variety of food offerings, the elegant presentation and culinary delight that we’ve enjoyed on Princess, Holland America and Cunard just wasn’t to be found on Norwegian. But, we also didn’t expect it, so Norwegian met all our food expectations for the type of vacation we chose.

Casual Dining

In addition to the buffets, main dining rooms and specialty dining, Norwegian (like Royal Caribbean and Princess) offers a variety of casual dining outlets. These are smaller venues featuring limited menus of different cuisines, and are included in the base price. On Getaway, we frequented American Diner for their huge burgers and their quiet breakfast buffet. We also enjoyed O’Sheehan’s Neighborhood Bar and Grill, an Irish pub as you can deduce from the name. Of course we sampled the delightful fish and chips, and we appreciated the order-from-the-menu option at breakfast versus the more crowded dining rooms.

American Diner, a casual dining outlet included in the cruise fare, featured huge and delicious burgers and other typical diner fare.

Shows and Entertainment

We mentioned that we’d give Royal Caribbean a slight advantage over Norwegian here. But that’s largely because our experience on Wonder of the Seas included a high-dive water and musical extravaganza, an ice skating show, an incredible multi-media production show, and more.

On Norwegian, we enjoyed the production shows, which included a full presentation of the Broadway production, “Million Dollar Quartet.” Multiple comedy shows and small-venue music shows were offered each night, delighting those who could squeeze in to the often-crowded sites.

If the grandkids would have been along, no doubt we would have enjoyed the family-oriented escape room. We heard great reviews from others.

While we didn’t participate in the family-oriented escape room theater events, we heard great reviews from fellow passengers traveling with their families.

Norwegian also has adopted television game shows as onboard interactive entertainment. Audiences are able to join in with selected players in Deal or No Deal, complete with a grumpy banker persona positioning for bargain buy-outs.

At this cake decorating “demonstration” or “competition,” the wacky antics and wild results from the F&B director stole the show from the serious pastry chef.

One of our favorite shows was a cake decorating “demonstration” or “competition,” featuring the pastry chef, the cruise director and the director of food and beverage. While the pastry chef’s decorating was impeccable and the cruise director’s meticulous effort drew praise, the wacky antics and wild results from the F&B director stole the show.

And The Rest

There’s just too much available to compare every ship offering. We’ll note that both Norwegian and Royal Caribbean offered adults-only areas, allowing for an oasis of quiet away from all the frenetic family fun. And both offered “exclusive” ship areas accessible to those willing to pay for an upgrade.

Family travel is delightful. But sometimes, adults need a break. Norwegian Getaway featured an aft-deck, adults-only retreat available to all without an upcharge. Another private area awaited those willing to pay.

On both lines, you’ll find an incredible array of on-board active areas. Getaway featured a ropes course, multiple water slides, two arcade areas, a dedicated kids area, plus the age-segregated kids’ clubs common on most lines. On Royal Caribbean’s newest mega ships line Wonder and Icon, there are more of these with greater capacities. But on the older Royal Caribbean ships, the offers are very similar to what we saw on Norwegian Getaway.

Oh, and if you’re celebrating a special occasion on Norwegian, let them know at time of booking. My wife received a colorful plate of chocolate-covered strawberries and a bottle of wine in our cabin. Then, when we presented a note at the host stand of the main dining room, she was treated to a special cake and — of course — birthday sing-along.

Don’t forget to notify Norwegian of special celebrations. We found chocolate strawberries and wine awaiting Glenda for her birthday. Then, we were treated to cake and a sing-along in the dining room.

Final Verdict

We definitely would go back again on any Norwegian ship, without hesitation, when we were looking for an active vacation onboard a high-energy floating entertainment palace. And we’d certainly choose recommend Norwegian (and Royal Caribbean!) for active grandparents like us traveling with their multi-generational families.

In fact, we’re booked for a Thanksgiving time cruise around Hawaii on the Pride of America with kids, spouses and grandkids This time, we’re opting for a suite, so we can better handle the inevitable on-ship visits. Check back in December 2025 for a full report.

Final Verdict: We would recommend Norwegian for active, family-oriented cruisers and multi-generation trips. We’ll be back for a Hawaii Circle Cruise on NCL.

Recalling Marietta’s All-Black Blue Eagles

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In 1879, the City of Marietta purchased a revolutionary new steam-powered fire wagon. Firefighting historians generally acknowledge that the Silsby Steamer was the innovation that created modern fire departments. Prior to its development, each fire company depended on bucket brigades and hand pumps to fight blazes.

And in Marietta, the newly arrived fire wagon also led to another first in 1881 — the creation of the Blue Eagle No. 2 Volunteer Fire Company, comprised entirely of citizens from Marietta’s black community.

fire museum history tour in Marietta Georgia
When the new Silsby Steam fire wagon, Aurora, arrived in Marietta, it paved the way for formation of the city’s all-black volunteer company.

As Marietta’s volunteer fire department became more experienced and proficient with the Aurora — the name given to the new wagon — it also made the city’s Blue Streak hand pumper engine obsolete. So the older apparatus was eventually provided to the newly-formed Blue Eagle No. 2 Volunteer Fire Company.

Community Service, and Social Clubs

Unlike modern city-operated fire departments, volunteer units of the day were a combination of social club and emergency response units. According to local records and newspaper accounts, the Blue Eagle Fire Company elected officers, held regular meetings, participated in community events and joined firefighting competitions and fought fires — sometimes alongside their white counterparts.

A display in the Marietta Fire Museum lists the original members of the Blue Eagles as: W.P. Butler, president; H. Frasier, foreman; Charlie Burke, second assistant foreman; John King, first pipeman; and members Thomas Alexandria, Author Cary, Author Darnell, John Easley, Miles Harvey and Oscar Lewis.

A mention in the Marietta Journal from Dec. 21, 1882, reported on the annual meeting of the Blue Eagle No. 2 Company, and the election of its officers. W.P. Butler, a Baptist minister, was elected president, a position he would hold for many years.

Original members of the Blue Eagles are memorialized on the timeline in the Marietta Fire Museum.

While the Blue Eagle Fire Company No. 2 was a volunteer organization, the City of Marietta often interacted with the crew. Membership benefits included exemption from the $3 city street tax, which was granted in March 1883 for up to 30 members of the Blue Eagle crew. And in May 1883, a report to city council noted the cleaning of the Blue Eagles’ No. 2 hand pump engine by the members.

Unified Response

The Blue Eagle Fire Company often responded to local fires side-by-side with their white counterparts, answering the call of the fire bell for blazes throughout the city. The Sept. 13, 1883, edition of the Marietta Journal reported one of those responses as follows:

“An alarm of fire, Monday morning about, half past nine o’clock, brought out the fire department. The kitchen on the premises of Mr. Chuck Anderson was on fire, and the fire being between the ceiling and roof, rendered it difficult to reach. The Hook and Ladder put in prompt work, while the Blue Eagle Hand Engine (colored) with a good stream kept the fire in check.”

During a streak of bitter cold in January 1886, the Blue Eagles and the rest of the Marietta firefighters answered a call in subzero temperatures and high winds to fight a blaze at a railroad warehouse.  Cotton bales had caught fire from the sparks of a passing train. In temperatures of four below zero with a “glacial gale blowing at a terrible rate,” the fire companies threw water on the burning cotton and “the water would freeze soon after hitting the bales,” the Marietta Journal newspaper reported. Their dedicated efforts in the sub-zero conditions saved most of the cotton and prevented the fire from spreading to surrounding warehouses.

The thankful owners of the Winters and Legg Warehouse thanked the firefighters for the quick response and dedication with an oyster dinner. As with many events of the time, the white members of Marrietta Fire Company No. 1 and the Marietta Hook and Ladder Co. enjoyed their dinner on a Tuesday night at the Whitlock House. Meanwhile, on the same evening, Winters and Legg treated the Blue Eagle Company to a similar oyster dinner at the Simm’s Restaurant, the Marietta Journal reported.

Parades and Contests

Marietta hosted a fire tournament on July 4, 1902, which featured all the city’s firefighting units. A 4 pm parade featured the fire fighters and their fire wagons, starting at the fire house on Atlanta Street and led by a military band. The Blue Eagle Firemen, with engine and reel, participated in costumes of black pants and blue shirts.

The Marietta Journal estimated “that some three thousand people were on the square at the time the parade and tournament took place. There was a regular jam of human beings.”

Newspaper article Marietta Fire Department

The day’s activities also included a reel race and foot races by the firefighters, with prizes of rubber fire coats and cash to the winners. The Blue Eagles received two rubber fire coats in the reel race.  In the foot races, Blue Eagle member Gus Nelson won the $2 first prize and Ed Robinson received the $1 second prize.

Of the day, the Marietta Journal concluded: “Marietta has had no more enjoyable day than the fourth of July. Good order prevailed throughout the day, no drunkenness and everybody seemed to be in a good humor. We have a splendid citizenry, hospitable, courteous, clever and enterprising, and the best town in the state.”

The final reference we could find to the Blue Eagle Fire Company appeared in May 1911. While the white Marietta firefighters participated in a city recognition event, the Blue Eagles were provided a separate barbeque lunch for their members.

Final Chapter for the Blue Eagles?

The final chapter of Blue Eagle history is unclear.

The Marietta department responded to a fire call at Zion Baptist Church in July 1914, after which the pastor publicly thanked the department in the Marietta Journal. But no mention is made of the Blue Eagles, who likely would have responded to the emergency at the church which was the heart of Marietta’s black community.

In October, 1914, the Marietta Journal published a notice or a meeting for reorganization of the volunteer fire departments, but published no follow-up report.

And, Sometime in the 1900s, Marietta switched some of its firefighting duties to a paid force. The volunteer departments continued alongside for awhile. A request in the Marietta Daily Journal requested that volunteer departments continue answering the fire bell along with the city’s new department. But how long that arrangement lasted is unclear.

We’re continuing to search the available digital records of the Marietta Journal and other sources for more information. You can also find a reference to Marietta’s Blue Eagles at the Marietta Fire Museum, located in the main fire station near downtown. Check out our article on a previous visit.

Amp Up Your Georgia Winter Break Staycation

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Some school systems in Georgia soon will be observing a winter break. There’s still time to plan a fun, family getaway in Georgia or nearby — without risking flight delays.

For those Georgia families looking but undecided, here are a few of our favorite options to amp up your winter break:

State Park Staycation

Park destinations are most heavily booked in spring, summer and fall. But it’s easy to find a comfy cabin, funky yurt or a camping spot during winter break. Approximately 40 Georgia state parks offer overnight stay options, including tent and RV sites, spacious and full-featured cabins, and yurts. And several, like Amicalola, Unicoi and others, offer full-service lodges for those who prefer a hotel or resort style experience. Find detailed information on each park’s accommodations and make reservations, on the the Georgia State Parks reservations page.

Fun family adventures at state park cabin
Whether you like primitive camping or modern “glamping,” Georgia’s state parks have a plethora of lodging options for all tastes.

Mountain Adventures

Beyond state parks, North Georgia offers lots of mountain adventures and exploration opportunities. Four of our favorite winter break destinations include Helen, Blue Ridge, Dahlonega, and Clayton, all offering unique local outings, excellent farm-to-table dining and interesting exploring. For example, in Dahlonega, combine gold and mining history with a tour of the Consolidated Gold Mine. Helen’s German-themed town offers unique shopping and exploration. Plus, there’s lots of scenic adventures by car or by foot around all the mountain towns. Or, perhaps you’ll be lucky enough to enjoy a frozen winter wonderland at one of Georgia’s tall frozen waterfalls.

In the North Georgia mountains, winter break means uncrowded hiking trails, new scenic views, and farm-to-table dining.

Savannah Sojourn

This historic Georgia riverport attracts throngs of visitors in peak season. But except for St. Patrick’s Day, you’ll find fewer visitors and more bargains on hotel stays during winter break. And “winter” in Savannah typically means sunny skies and temperatures in the 60s. Thus, walking the city’s historic squares or taking the open tour carriages are still great options.

Savannah’s moderate winter means lots of warm, sunny days to enjoy dining al fresco and exploring the historic squares.

Always Atlanta

Yes, Atlanta is always an option when you think of a Georgia destination. Downtown offers a plethora of high-end hotels that deliver on fine accommodations and luxury spa services. Plus, many of the city’s best eateries also are near downtown. Some favorite winter attractions include touring the Carter Presidential Library, visiting the Georgia State Capital under it’s golden dome, and exploring Martin Luther King National Historical Park. Sports fans will enjoy the 90 minute tour of spectacular Mercedes Benz stadium. Just outside the city, scenic and historic Stone Mountain offers spectacular views.

Whether you choose one of the city’s historic indoor sites or a visit to nearby Stone Mountain, Atlanta delivers as a winter staycation choice.

Small Town Charm

Throughout Georgia, the countryside is dotted with charming small Southern towns. Often built around a historic square, these Georgia treasures deliver on relaxing days full of antique and bargain shopping, site seeing, history and hometown favorite foods. Of course, we’re partial to Marietta since we live there. We can walk to the historic square, bike to Kennesaw Mountain or saunter downtown for cocktails and dinner. Some of our other favorites nearby and around the state include Acworth, Kennesaw, Woodstock, Roswell, Alpharetta, Dahlonega, Blue Ridge, Taccoa, Ellijay, St. Simon, Clayton and Pine Mountain. And if you ignore some of the politically-charged commentary, we loved our time in Columbus, too. That’s not a comprehensive list, but consider it a starter for small-town adventures. And given Georgia’s place in the movie industry, don’t be surprised if you stumble across a film site.

With Georgia’s major presence as a Hollywood filming destination, we’ve often run across movie sets as we visited Georgia’s charming small towns like Toccoa, Marietta and others.

Amtrak Adventure

We haven’t done this one — YET! — but it’s definitely on our list. Amtrak’s Crescent line serves Atlanta’s Peachtree Station (ATL), providing daily service on it’s route that runs from New York City and New Orleans. Theoretically, you can make a one-day round-trip southbound journey from Atlanta to Birmingham, leaving Atlanta at 9:08 am and arriving in Birmingham in early afternoon. Then, you can return on the 5:15 pm northbound from Birmingham, arriving in Atlanta around 11:30 pm. BUT, Amtrak’s long-distance trains are notorious for not keeping schedules due to freight train priorities and other track issues. So it may be best to plan an overnight stay — or just make the longer run to New Orleans and stay awhile. Going northbound from Atlanta, be aware that the Crescent departs in late evening. Thus, stops like Charlotte, Washington DC, Baltimore and New York require an overnight journey.

While we’ve taken Amtrak elsewhere, a trip on the Crescent route from Atlanta remains on our to-do list. We’re thinking a trip to New Orleans or Washington is in our future.

Georgia’s Discovery Trails

Whether you enjoy scenic drives or historical exploration, Georgia’s state tourism department has something for you. Several designated scenic drives cut through regions of Georgia, including the Russell-Brasstown Scenic Byway through the mountains, the Altamaha Historic Scenic Byway along the Southeastern Georgia low country, and the Enduring Farmlands Scenic Byway in mid-state. More historically-themed exploration “trails” also have been established, with recommended stops and supporting guides. The 200-mile Chieftains Trail in Georgia is a heritage tourism route that highlights key historical sites associated with the Native American Cherokee Nation. Established to honor the legacy and culture of the Cherokee people, the trail takes visitors through significant locations in Northwest Georgia that played a central role in the Cherokee’s history before their forced removal on the Trail of Tears in 1838. The Georgia World War II Heritage Trail is a state-wide tourism initiative that commemorates Georgia’s significant contributions to the war effort during World War II. This trail links historic sites, museums, and memorials across the state that highlight various aspects of the war, including military training, manufacturing, home-front efforts, and the personal stories of Georgians who served.

At a stop on St. Simons Island along the Georgia World War II Heritage Trail, we learned about the blimps that once protected the Georgia Coast.

Caribbean Cruise

For those who want to get a bit farther away, the Port Canaveral cruise port in Florida is one of the country’s best starting points for cruises of all types. During winter, several cruise lines offer three, five or seven day cruises that fit just about any budget. Favorite destinations include the Bahamas, and Eastern Caribbean Cruises. Port Canaveral is less than a one day drive for most Georgians.

A variety of 3, 5 and 7 day cruises depart nearby Port Canaveral, an easy one-day drive from most points in Georgia.

Six Reasons We Love Winter Hiking

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When the winter solstice passes deep into December, many we know pack up their hiking gear and wait for the spring before venturing out again. For us, winter hiking in Georgia is just another hiking season, with different appeal, unique sights, and a perfect opportunity to escape those indoor blues.

We love getting out on uncrowded trails on sunny winter days, enjoying the exercise, sunshine and great views that you don’t always see when there’s full foliage.

With an above-average 217 sunshiny days annually, North Georgia’s hiking season definitely extends year-round. Now, we’re saying that winter is our favorite hiking season. But it’s not our least-favorite either, a designation we reserve for humid, sweaty, bug-infested summer when we greatly prefer water, kayaks, beaches or air-conditioned resorts. Winter hiking simply requires a different set of equipment and a brighter outlook for darker days.

Reasons We Love Winter Season

Here are six reasons we love winter hiking, and look forward to getting outdoors during Georgia’s mild winter season:

1. No Sweat.

That may be an overstatement, but you get the point. When you dress warmly for winter hiking, you may end up shedding a layer to avoid a few spots of mild dampness. But compared to the strength-draining, drenching body water works of summer, working up a slight winter sweat signals that you’re getting a good workout while enjoying the outdoors. We always wear a wicking underlayer for winter hikes, which moves water away from the skin and helps retain warmth. And after a winter hike, we generally feel comfortable dropping in at a local restaurant (like Harvest Moon in Rome, GA.) for some comfort food and a beverage, not fearing we’ll offend the olfactory senses of patrons at nearby tables.

We always wear layers for winter hiking, including a moisture-wicking underlayer to help retain warmth. And after a winter hike, we’re not sweat-drenched, so we feel comfortable dropping in at local restaurants without risk of offending nearby patrons.

2. Happy trails

There’s nothing more annoying than heading out into the great wide open to find yourself shoulder-to-shoulder with a herd of humans. During the winter, Georgia trails often are wide-open, or at least far-less-trafficked than any other time of the year. We have the luxury of weekday hiking, and we rarely run into large groups. On weekends, we try to avoid Kennesaw Mountain and other urban hikes, but even those popular sites feature smaller crowds in winter.

Winter trails are happy, wide-open trails, where we can avoid herds of humans while spotting friendly forest creatures enjoying the quiet, solitude and sunshine.

3. More to See

Fallen leaves open the view from different angles, often revealing hidden treasures and vistas impossible to spot during other seasons. Winter at Amicalola Falls and Dukes Creek Falls reveals the full vertical splendor of Georgia’s tall falls as they cascade deep into the valleys below. Wandering the trails at Red Top Mountain, you can spot chimneys standing alone deep in the pine forest, the only remaining evidence of previous occupants. Mountain-top views at KeMo, Pine Mountain and Sloppy Floyd State Park offer a wider view of the surrounding area with fewer leaves blocking site lines. And if you look into the forest far off the trails or even down near your feet, you may even spot deer and other forest creatures you might otherwise miss in full foliage.

Winter hikes reveal the hidden splendor of Georgia’s most magnificent treasures, like the full length of Amicalola Falls, not visible in other seasons.
It’s easier to capture spectacular panoramas, like this one at Kennesaw Mountain, when the leaves are down and the sun is up.

4. Fewer slithering surprises

With more to see all around, you can take solace in the fact that there’s a lesser likelihood of encountering slithering surprises on trails during the winter. But let’s clear up a misconception: snakes don’t hibernate during winter. Instead, they brumate, becoming less active and slowing their metabolism to reduce their food and water needs. But while they aren’t as active, they are still around, seeking warmth, often in underground dens and under wood and rock piles. Here’s a fun fact: while you’re less likely to see a snake outdoors in winter, the odds increase that you’ll encounter one indoors – like in your garage, your storage shed or even in your house. So come on, get OUTSIDE in the winter to avoid snakes! 🙂

Snakes are less active during their winter brumation, when these cold-blooded reptiles seek warmth under wood and rock piles, or in underground dens. We spotted this non-venomous fellow seeking sunlight near a fallen tree along a stream.

5. Bright Light

North Georgia enjoys lots of winter days when the sun is high in the sky or peeking through scattered or thin clouds. That’s good news for those afflicted by Seasonal Affective Disorder, or SAD, which Mayo Clinic reports is most frequent in the winter, sapping your energy and making you feel moody or even depressed. Exposure to natural light delivers proven relief, including accelerating production of Vitamin D and potentially boosting a positive attitude. So while we love the convenience of walking the indoor track at the local YMCA or even making the 40 loops of our basement to measure one mile, there’s nothing like soaking up some sunshine on a winter hike – even on a cloudy day – to improve your health.

When the walls close in, we head outdoors to get the benefit of sunlight therapy — and get visiting family and friends out of the house.

6. Cure for Cabin Fever

We love our home, but we often feel the walls closing in during winter. There’s a reason Jimmy Buffet sings in Boat Drinks, “This morning, I shot six holes in my freezer. I think I got cabin fever; somebody sound the alarm.” Often, by February, we are looking forward to a Caribbean cruise to St. Somewhere. But during the other weeks, we find it much more practical to head to a nearby trail, state park, historical site or national land preserve for a simple walk in the woods — especially when we can get visiting family and friends out of the house for some needed space.

More Winter Wandering Ideas

So far, we’ve mentioned and provided links about winter hiking at Pine Mountain in Cartersville, Amicalola Falls State Park, Duke’s Creek Falls, Red Top Mountain State Park, and Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park. Here are a few others that we’ve done that are ideal for winter hiking:

The low-volume falls at Sloppy Floyd are on our list for a return visit this winter. We’ve seen a few pictures of the frozen falls that we want to add to our own collection.

James “Sloppy” Floyd State ParkWe’ve hiked Sloppy several times, up to the Marble Mine and then to the high intersection with the 300+-mile Pinhoti Scenic Trail. (We promise we’ll get around to writing about our adventures, as it’s a fun family outing.) For Winter 2021, this one is on our list to visit again after a couple of days of freezing weather, when the low-volume falls can create some incredible winter picture opportunities.

Cloudland Canyon State Park. One of our favorite Georgia State Parks, featuring two major waterfalls, several smaller ones, and a spectacular canyon view. Fall is our favorite time here, and we tend to visit on weekdays, as weekends have been crowded during this year of Covid-19. Again, freezing days can create a winter wonderland of photo ops.

Cloudland Canyon is one of our favorite destinations year-round. We snapped this colorful fall photo, while winter reveals even more of the park’s smaller falls.

Black Rock Mountain State Park. Hiking the 2.2 mile Tennessee Rock Trail offers incredible vistas anytime of the year, but the views really open up when the leaves fall down.

Pickett’s Mill State Historical Area. Visiting in the winter can offer a better understanding of how battle activities played out during this bloody Civil War assault. We also prefer the winter because lower temperatures and shorter grass on the lesser-traveled trails means lower risks of ticks.

Mountain to River Trail. We often combine an early-Saturday-morning visit to the Marietta Farmer’s Market with a hike on this urban trail. We like it in winter because we can then grab a hot coffee or warm lunch at the Marietta Food Market (we owe an update on this post!) or from one of the many restaurants at the square when we’re done. We wrote this up as a fun bike trail, but we often walk it from the Square.

Creative hikers brought along hammocks, attached them to mountain-top trees, and enjoyed a rest coupled with great views. We’re looking forward to trying this with our Christmas-gift hammock soon.

A Walk in the Woods

We’ll conclude with a book recommendation. If you can’t or won’t take our advice to get out for a winter hike, you can enjoy our favorite hiking book, A Walk in the Woods by Bill Bryson. It’s a personal and highly comical story of Bryson’s attempt to hike the Appalachian Trail from Georgia to Maine with a friend. If you’re not hiking, winter’s a great time for reading this or any other Bryson book, for that matter – to improve your attitude and outlook!

When we’re done walking in the woods, look for local restaurants for some comfort food and a refreshing beverage. Cooler temperatures mean we’re less likely to offend the olfactory senses of patrons when nearby tables are crowded.
Hikes can be through urban areas, too. We enjoy visiting the Marietta Farmer’s Market on early Saturday mornings for fresh buys, then walking the Mountain to River Trail. We usually end up at a Marietta Square Market food hall, or one of the plethora of options surrounding Marietta Square.

The Biltmore Shines Brilliantly for the Holidays

After Hurricane Helene ravaged the areas with floods, the legendary Biltmore Estate reopened recently, just in time for its annual Holiday event that is a tradition for many extended families.

And as usual, the main home and other areas of the estate are shining brightly, illuminated by hundreds of thousands of flickering lights, countless fresh-cut trees and imaginative decorations throughout the huge estate.

Biltmore Interior Illuminated for Holidays
Inside, the Biltmore is illuminated by hundreds of thousands of flickering lights and countless fresh-cut trees.

For our pilgrimage, we enjoyed a Sunday evening tour of the main house and a quiet day exploring the gardens, winery, restaurants and the shops of Antler Hill Village. Frequent Biltmore visitors will be aware of on-property closures remaining after Hurricane Helene. But those who visit less often simply will be dazzled by what they experience at the estate during their visit.

By far, the evening Biltmore Candlelight Christmas tours remain the stunning highlight of a holiday visit. While the crowds we endured were sizeable, that didn’t stop us from enjoying the flickering candlelight and the extravagant decorations that adorn the massive house. And that was made even more festive by live choral and music performances placed strategically inside. Yes, visitors can tour the home during the day (saving a few dollars on a ticket) to experience the incredible decorations. But if you’re visiting, why not get the full experience and be amazed by how the house is transformed during the evening illuminations?

Biltmore Interior Illuminated for Holidays
Touring the Biltmore house during the day is an option, but why not get the full experience and be amazed by the evening illuminations?

One of our best decisions was enjoying some of the casual dining options on-site during our visit. Since we arrived early for our evening tour but weren’t particularly hungry, we created our own informal courtyard picnic with offerings from the Courtyard Cafe and the Bake Shop. Some fresh-baked goods, a nice salad, an espresso drink and some rich hot chocolate were perfect for a light evening meal after our late, off-site lunch.

Performances at the Biltmore for Holidays
We stopped to enjoy choral and musical performances throughout the Biltmore’s incredible gilded-age rooms.

As we toured the estate and Antler Village on the second day of our visit, we meandered into Cedric’s for some pub grub, a beer and some wine. The portions were satisfying, the beer cold and the ambiance reflected that of a comfortable pub.

We stayed until early evening, watching the sun set, then the twinkling lights awaken to illuminate the village area. Of course, no day would be complete without a dessert, so we made a stop for ice cream just before sunset — getting a sugar rush going to optimize the nighttime illumination.

Antler Village at the Biltmore for the Holidays
Beyond the main house, Antler Village also features a plethora of twinkling lights and some yummy delights.

Yes, there are lots of other dining options at the estate — including some incredible Forbes four-star fine-dining at for breakfast, lunch, tea and dinner at The Dining Room — but our appetites (and a failure to make reservations in advance!) didn’t allow for those experiences.

Crowds line up at the Biltmore for the Holidays
Weekends at the Biltmore Estate are crowded, so go on a weeknight to avoid the largest crowds.

For lodging and other dining, we chose off-site locations for convenience, price and to spread a few dollars throughout the local economy. We used a walking tour we found on the GPS My City to walk through some of the downtown area. Some of our favorite stops included the art deco City Hall, the Woolworth Walk and Kress Emporium — both inside historic old department store sites — and the Grove Arcade, formerly a shopping center now converted again to shops and residences. Downtown we also stumbled upon the quirky Asheville Iron Sculpture and Shopping Daze Sculpture, then investigated more about the provenance of these artworks.

Post Biltmore touring in Asheville, Shopping Daze
We used a walking tour from the GPS My City app to meander through downtown, stumbling across this “Shopping Daze” sculpture before investigating further.

And, that exploration led us to artwork of a slightly different kind: the architectural wonder of the masonry elliptical dome inside of the Basilica of Saint Lawrence. For those who love unique architecture, we highly recommend that you download The Art & Architecture of The Basilica of Saint Lawrence, then put the Basilica on your visitation list.

Since we drove from the Atlanta area, we also were able to enjoy some other nearby touring on the way there and on our return trip home.

Post Biltmore touring in Asheville, Basilica of St. Lawrence
The Basilica of Saint Lawrence and its masonry elliptical dome are unique architectural wonders.

But if you’re planning on visiting in 2024, be aware that Asheville and much of the surrounding area were hard hit by flooding from Hurricane Helene. Thus, you’ll want to make lodging reservations far in advance AND check out the North Caroline Department of Transportation website for all the latest on road conditions in the region.

What You’ll See From Panoramic Pine Mountain

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(Updated September 2024. First published October 2020)

As the most visited national recreation area in the country, many Cobb County and Atlanta area residents are familiar with the climb and view at Kennesaw Mountain. For those wanting a change in scenery, northerly neighbor Pine Mountain offers a panoramic view coupled with excellent hiking.

Rising to 1,562 feet at its summit, Cartersville’s Pine Mountain offers a 180+ degree view looking South toward Atlanta from the David Archer Lookout. But what exactly do you see when making the two mile and 650-plus foot vertical ascent to one of the taller mountains nearest to Atlanta?

The 1,562-foot summit of Pine Mountain is marked by this survey marker. Standing on the rocks nearest the marker provides a spectacular 180-degree panoramic view to the South.

After hiking at Pine Mountain on several occasions, our curiosity was piqued. So we went back up again on an overcast day when the ozone and humidity were relatively low. Our goal: spot, photograph and identify the key landmarks visible to the naked eye.

For the unfamiliar, this Pine Mountain is adjacent to the Army Corps of Engineers-managed area that includes Allatoona Dam, Lake Allatoona, 13,000 acres formerly owned by antebellum iron magnate Mark Anthony Cooper, and the 270 miles of shoreline created by the jagged waterline of the flood control lake.  We clarify here because Georgia is home to several Pine Mountains, including the most well-known near Warm Springs, GA, home to FDR State Park, the Little White House and Calloway Gardens.

Except at non-peak times, it’s not routine to spot the native forest animals like chipmunks, squirrels, foxes, racoons, the occasional deer, and a sampling of Georgia snakes. But careful and observant hikers will spot many birds, insects and forest floor dwellers.

The trails at Cartersville’s Pine Mountain are well-traveled and well-marked dirt paths. Each features approximately 700 feet of upward elevation change, though once you descend and climb over the hilly route, an activity tracker will record more. Along the way, hikers enjoy mountainside streams; forests with towering trees, ferns, native wildflowers and other flora; and small animals including chipmunks, squirrels, foxes, racoons, the occasional deer, a sampling of Georgia snakes and lots of insects.

West Trail, for Convenience

The easiest, most convenient access to Pine Mountain trails is the West Trailhead, located on Komatsu Drive and just off I-75. But with convenience comes crowding. The large parking lot can be at or near capacity on busy weekends.

The West Trail departs the trailhead off Komatsu Drive, then heads downward to a creek, the lowest point on the hike. From there, the nearly-700 foot climb to the summit begins, up the West Loop Trail.

Hiking the West Trail to the summit and using the loop route covers approximately 2.4 miles. From the lot, the trail heads down toward Hurricane Hollow and a bridge over the creek at the lowest point on the hike. Now, the 678-foot climb to the summit begins. For the shortest (and steepest!) route up, take a right turn at the West Loop trail intersection, navigating a series of switchbacks and following the markers for the one-mile journey.

At the lowest points and along streams, the forest floor is filled with ferns. As you climb, large fields of granite rocks and huge outcroppings line the path.

Along the way under the canopy, you’ll pass patches of forest floor ferns in the wetter areas, large granite rock fields and outcroppings, and (on crowded days) potentially lots of other trail users. On the descent, follow the opposite branch of the West Loop trail for a slightly longer, but less-steep walk.

Concrete trail makers along with the blaze marks on trees along each route make navigation easy. Here, the West Loop meets the entry/exit trail to the Komatsu Drive trailhead parking lot. Don’t worry, the well-traveled paths are easy to follow.

East Trail, for Solitude, Somedays

We prefer the less-trafficked East Trail, though beware that mountain bikes are allowed here on Wednesdays and Saturdays. The trail begins at a small parking lot off Georgia Spur 20, a wooded backroad that follows the shore of Lake Allatoona to its terminus at the Corps of Engineers offices and the Allatoona Dam overlook.

We prefer hiking the East Trail, as it is more isolated and less crowded most days. But beware, it’s open to mountain bikes on Wednesday and Saturday. The trail starts with a quick 40-foot climb before intersecting with the loop point. This also is the joining point to the Cooper’s Mountain Connector, if you want to extend your trip.

This loop hike begins with a quick 40-foot climb. Reaching an emergency call box, we prefer taking the left branch and heading up the steepest and shortest route (approximately 1.3 miles) to the summit. The longer return route (approximately 1.8 miles) slopes more gently, includes several switch backs, and takes a deep-dive down to follow a small stream before a short climb back to the starting point. Generally, the terrain, flora and geologic features are similar here to the West Trail.

Both West and East trails feature several switch backs. After a few of these, it can feel like you meet yourself coming and going.

Cooper’s Furnace Connector

For those looking for longer routes, the Pine Mountain trail system can be reached from Cooper’s Furnace. Just follow the (NAME) trail toward the summit, looking for a well-marked connector trail to the East Loop trail. Taking this route adds approximately 2.6 miles to the East Trail.

Side note: we’ve done a separate blog on our hikes at Cooper’s Furnace.

The View at David Archer Overlook

Since all Pine Mountain trails feature loop routes, the most common midpoint includes an extended stop at the 1,562-foot David Archer overlook. Archer Overlook features a nearly 180-degree view. facing roughly South Southeast. You can see Atlanta on a clear day, though on our visits, weather, humidity, and haze has often made spotting the city building impossible.

We were curious about what we saw at the peak, so we did a little research. The labelled picture below and the descriptions that follow should help you. (Hint: for best results, enlarge your browser settings to 150% or 200% to see the picture labels with the text below. Or, to see the picture and labels best, right click on the photo and select: Open in new tab, then enlarge that to 150%. We’re working on a rotating panorama, but so far, it’s beyond our capabilities.)

Standing on any rock near the brass US Coast and Geodetic Survey marker at the peak, your view will include, from left to right:

To see the picture and labels best, right click on the photo and select: Open in new tab, then enlarge that to 150% or greater. Items in green are closest to Pine Mountain.
  • Sweat Mountain, distant beyond the lakes and just over 18 miles away. Sweat Mountain rises to approximately 1,600 feet and is located between Woodstock and Alpharetta.
  • Red Top Mountain, in the nearby state park that bears its name, the 961-foot peak is visible behind the white boat shed roofs of Park Marina on Lake Allatoona. The question here: does Red Top really qualify as a mountain?
  • Buckhead and Uptown Atlanta. When humidity, ozone or air pollution don’t hide them, some of Atlanta’s tallest buildings appear next in the counter-clockwise rotation. Buildings in Buckhead are farther left, with the Bank of America Building appearing approximately 37 miles in the distance just before Kennesaw Mountain rises to block the view of downtown.
On a clear day without haze, humidity or air pollution, Atlanta’s tallest buildings are visible from Buckhead to Midtown. Just look directly over the communications tower on Vineyard Mountain to find them. At far right, the Bank of America Building, approximately 37 miles away.
  • Vineyard Mountain, just under 1.5 miles away, Vineyard Mountain forms the southern anchor wall of the Allatoona Dam. You’ll may spot a communication tower rising from near the 1,348-foot peak of Vineyard Mountain, which also is home to several strenuous hiking trails.
  • Kennesaw Mountain, approximately 17 miles in the distance, and to the right of Vineyard Mountain. Hikers and history buffs will recognize the higher peak of Kennesaw Mountain at 1,801 feet, and the lower, 1,624-ft peak of Little Kennesaw, both of which housed dominating cannon placements during the Civil War battle.
  • Signal Mountain tops out at 1,178 feet, the slightly-tallest and center of three closely-grouped, nearby peaks.
  • Cartersville Mining District, including the currently-operating New Riverside Ochre Company.  Including the nearby area defined by the US Bureau of Land Management, the Cartersville Mining District lists 347 registered mines, including 130 producing locations and several registered as prospecting for gold and titanium.
  • Etowah Historical Site. Featuring mounds built by Etowah tribes between 1000 A.D. to 1550 A.D., this state historical site is located four miles away on the Etowah River.
  • Georgia Power’s Plant Bowen. A large complex 10.5 miles away, Plant Bowen is sometimes confused for a nuclear plant because cooling towers shapes. The four-unit Bowen Steam Plant is one of the largest coal-fired power plants in the US. Often, white condensation clouds rise upwards from the towers.
  • City of Cartersville. Just before the tree line resumes, the City of Cartersville spreads out below. Look closely and you may spot the golden dome of the historic Bartow County Courthouse reflecting sunbeams.

Who Was David Archer?

Our curiosity was piqued by the name of the overlook at Pine Mountain.  If yours is, too, here’s a short bit of the backstory.

Our Garmin Activity Stats

As usual, we tracked our activity with our trusty Garmin Vivoactive HR watch, which includes GPS, altitude, pace, and heart rate information. We’ve posted it below for the West and East Trails. Remember when looking at exertion data that the device was attached to a 63-year-old man.

We’ve added labels (in orange) to our maps. Plus, the colors on the trails indicate our relative traveling speeds:

  • Blue/Green: Stop and slowest
  • Yellow, Orange, Burnt Orange, Red: Accelerating to fastest

West Trail, July 2020, at 81F

Hiking with our daughter and two grandsons, aged seven and five, and a small, curious dog on a leash, we meandered up the left fork to the summit in 41 minutes, taking the left fork of the loop trail first.

East Trail, October 2020, 61F

My wife, Glenda, and I hiked this alone, taking the left and shortest route up first.

Don’t Miss Nearby

  1. Cooper’s Furnace Day Use Area. Great river views, family-friendly hiking trails, a playground plus ruins of an old manufacturing site. A parking pass is required, but free with a National Park pass.
  2. Allatoona Dam. Enter Cooper’s Furnace Day Use Area and follow the access road to the end. Park, and walk along the paved path for great views of the dam.
  3. Red Top Mountain State Park. Across Lake Allatoona from Pine Mountain, the Red Top Mountain State Park offers lakefront hiking, boat rentals at the marina, and lots of picnic areas.
  4. Etowah State Historical Site. One of Georgia’s state historical site, it features a small museum full of artifacts plus walking access to the three tallest mounds.
  5. Cartersville Lunch Spots. We’re always hungry after our morning hikes. Some of our favorite post-hike stops in Cartersville include Ross Diner, a tiny joint at 17 N. Wall St. with no website, Moore’s Gourmet Market, and Appalachian Grill, the most upscale of the bunch.

Other Fun Family Fare

We have lots of other local, Georgia and regional adventures on the menu, too. Just head to our home page at OurTravelCafe.com and browse the nearly 60 options for family fun.

Make Panama Canal a Bucket List Voyage

If you’re putting together bucket list activities, here’s one to consider: A cruise vacation through the Panama Canal.

We cruised the Panama Canal back in April 2024 on Holland America. Leaving our North Georgia home for a departure from Ft. Lauderdale, we cruised the Caribbean, Panama Canal and the west coast of Central America, ending our journey in beautiful, sunny San Diego.

After putting off a Panama Canal transit for several years, we finally did it in April 2024. Now we recommend it to everyone as a bucket list trip.

Honestly, we put off this trip for several years thinking the route, ports, and adventure just wasn’t for us. Boy, were we wrong. So now, we’re big fans of this route and recommend it to all our cruising friends as a “bucket list” trip.

And here are the five top reasons why:

History. The Panama Canal story may be the opening chapter in America’s world leadership. After the French failed in a canal attempt, the US took over the effort. Within 10 years, the Panama Canal opened in August 1914. The full story is filled with history, intrigue, revolutionaries, politics, tragedy, and triumph. Before you go, we highly recommend reading historian David McCullough’s excellent and detailed book, “The Path Between the Seas: The Creation of the Panama Canal 1870-1914.”

Sailing through the Gatun Locks on the Gulf end of the canal, the lock house displays the year 1913. It’s a great reminder of the incredible history of the building and beyond.

Geography. To really understand the canal story, you have to see the local geography. Yes, you can read about the heights of the mountains and depths of the valleys. Sure, there are descriptions about the dense jungle. And of course, you can see photos of the massive lake created as part of the canal project. But approaching, transiting and departing the canal will change your understanding, perspective and world view.

The original 51-mile canal was cut through mountains, required taming a wild river and gave birth to a giant lake. Then, a second canal was added as ships outgrew the original locks.

Innovation. No matter how you look at it, the Panama Canal is an engineering marvel of the modern world. After the French failed with their canal effort, good old American ingenuity, brashness and determination were required to “get ‘er done.” Seeing the original locks in operation gave me a sense of awe and pride. And watching the largest of ships bypass the original canal by following the same basic route and process reinforced my amazement.

Running parallel to the original canal and requiring fewer locks, the addition of a second canal accommodates larger ships and faster transit.

Beaches. While we generally are not beach vacation people, the variety of stops and beaches on a typical Panama Canal routing piqued our sun-and-sand interest. Most of these cruises make a stop in the Central Caribbean before calling at one of the Southern Caribbean ABC islands. (For us, Aruba and Caracao were on the itenerary.) Once through the Canal, the Pacific coast beacons. Based on advice we received from experienced Canal-cruisers, we selected other adventures in Costa Rica and Southern Mexico, and saved our beach outings for Puerto Vallarta and Cabo San Lucas.

A canal cruise isn’t just about the canal. Most cruise lines include multiple stops in the Caribbean and along the western coast of Central America, too. There’s lots of touring, nature and beach front to explore nearby.

Value. By watching prices during the cruise line’s ship repositioning season, you’ll likely find a great deal on a canal transit. Each Spring, cruise operators move ships from the Caribbean to Alaska. And they reverse that in the Fall. Each of these transits the canal. To fill repositioning voyages, cruise lines often offer deep discounts as compared to their regular fares. So it’s possible to get both a great adventure and a fantastic bargain by watching the options and prices.

Nature and natural beauty are a big part of any canal journey. Stops in tropical ports and near rain forests offer lots of nature-watching opportunities.

Here’s our final booking tip: if you have travel flexibility, look for deep discounts and last minute deals on a Panama Canal trip. After the cruise lines successfully sell cabins to those who plan in advance, empty cabins are discounted deeply. You’ll start seeing the deepest discounts on Spring canal transits beginning in November. Prices will drop again within 89 days of a repositioning departure, after the cancellation deadline for early bookers.

Stops on Our Voyage

To give you a taste of the scenery, here are lots of photos from some of our stops on this Panama Canal transit cruise:

Curacao

Having a bottle of Blue Curacao on the island of Curacao after arriving on a blue ship may be the definition of a cruise vacation.
Curacao is world-famous for its colorful buildings, artwork and scenery. Our tour bus certainly got us ready for a colorful day.
We chose an island tour that featured stops at some of the murals in Willemstad before heading out to a secluded beach.

Cartagena

The busy central plaza in Cartagena offered lively music, street performers, food carts, and lots of touring spots nearby.
The steeple of the Cathedral de Santa Catalina de Alejandria is an imposing centerpiece in Cartagena.
While the streets a best described as busy hubs of organized confusion, quiet courtyards offer peace and beauty.
What? Visit Columbia and NOT have coffee? You know us better than that!

Costa Rica

Hiking through a rainforest over swinging bridges proved to be a highlight — if not the wisest choice — of our stop in Costa Rica.
Rain forest. Butterflies. Need we say more?
We found this little guy trying to blend in with the scenery. No one tried kissing him to produce a prince.

Puerto Vallarta

The domed steeple of the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe towers over downtown Puerto Vallarta. We ventured inside for a closer look.
The Isla Rio Cuale River Walk is surrounded by vendor stands. Overhead, colorful flags and other decor provide protection from the sun. We later saw this location featured on an episode of The Amazing Race.
The Puerto Vallarta art walk features castings, murals and other works of art. The walk stretches along the shore.
When you run short of certain required supplies on day 14 of an 18-day trip, familiarity counts!
Leaving Puerto Vallarta, we spotted a pod of whales, including two playful juveniles.

Cabo San Lucas

We attended church services onboard Saturday evening to get an early Sunday start.
Nope, not us! But I wish we had rented kayaks for a shoreline paddle. Next time.
The beaches in Puerto Vallarta were uncrowded, with lots of options for water activities.

There’s a Video, Too!

Want more about our Panama Canal transit? We put together a video of the actual transit. Check it out:

Mountain Magic: Waterfalls, Cabin Bliss, and Family Fun 

We read lots of Facebook group posts and NextDoor inquires where someone’s asking: what’s the perfect Georgia weekend getaway for mountain magic? Well, after eight years, we’ve been here long enough to know that there’s not a good answer to that question.

Instead, there are an almost unlimited number of great answers when you consider the range of mountain magic options in North Georgia. So we won’t dare to say this is the perfect or best combination, but this waterfall weekend proved to be great fun for our family.

family gold mine tour in Georgia mountains
One our way to the Vogel State Park destination, we explored the Consolidated Gold Mine in Dahlonega.

On the way to this mountain magic getaway, we passed through historic Dahlonega, once the gold capitol of the Georgia and the eastern US. We couldn’t pass up a visit to the Consolidated Gold Mine, where we toured the abandoned mining shafts and learned about Georgia’s gold rush past. That also whetted our appetite to learn more about gold prospecting in Georgia.

For our two-night base, we rented a two-bedroom cabin at Vogel State Park. With a man-made lake for swimming and kayaking, a small waterfall on a park trail plus lots of other hiking options, the park delivered on all the amenities we sought.

Our cabin offered a full kitchen, porch furnished with rocking chairs and an outdoor eating area, a fire pit, two full bedrooms and two full baths. With the bedrooms separated by the large family area, adults could enjoy a quiet, peaceful night when we sent the kids and grandkids off to their side of the cabin.

The large porch at our Vogel State Park cabin featured rocking chairs and a table, perfect for dining and snacks while enjoying mountain views.

Nearby, we enjoyed side trips to multiple waterfalls during our stay.

For waterfalls, this is a pick-your-activity-length option. Onsite at Vogel State Park, Traylyta Falls pours over a small cliff just off the lake loop walking trail. A steep dirt trail leads to the wooden viewing stand for those who want views and photos. Adventurous visitors use a second trail to reach the rocky area just below the falls.

Trail to waterfall at Vogel State Park
Adventurous hikers can use an alternate trail to reach the creek bed below the viewing stand and Traylyta Falls at Vogel State Park

Our favorite falls on this trip were just a short ride away. We paired each with either hiking or other activities to make a day activity of each.

Just 12 minutes away by car, Helton Creek Falls features two small falls located in the Chattahoochee National Forest. Getting here requires a drive on a bumpy, shell and dirt road. We made it in our minivan, but not without some moments of trepidation. Then, there’s a short hike to the falls which tumble over two ledges along the creek. The lower falls offers a perfect location for wading and swimming, and we did a little of both with the grands. Later in the day, we returned to our cabin for a short walk, a cook-out and smores on the firepit.

Helton Creek near Vogel State Park
After a short ride over a bumpy gravel and dirt road, we arrived at Helton Creek Falls. We joined others in doing a little wading and swimming downstream from the larger falls.

On day two, after the adults enjoyed a morning walk around Lake Traylyta with grumbling kids in tow, we jumped in the minivan for the 30-minute ride to nearby Duke’s Falls. After hiking downhill approximately one mile, we stopped to enjoy the tall, tumbling falls. While others took “unofficial” trails down to the creek for swimming, we didn’t indulge here.

waterfall in Georgia mountains
Duke’s Creek Falls is a short ride from Vogel State Park. We’ve now visited multiple times in different seasons to get a better view of the tall, cascading falls.

Instead, we hiked back up, jumped back into the minivan, and headed into Helen. While we roamed the town, the kids filled their bellies with lunch, fudge and other treats. Mountain coasters, tubing and lots of other adventures beckoned to the adventurous youngsters. After everyone had indulged in their activity of choice, it was back to Vogel for a sunset cook-out.

On this trip, we didn’t have time to hike at neighboring Blood Mountain. So it’s on our “to-do” list for a fall or winter return. Plus, we made lots of notes on other hiking trails, waterfalls and scenic drives that we didn’t get to in just one short visit. So, we’ll definitely be back to explore more of this area.

Don’t Be Crabby: We Love Marietta Fish Market

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It’s easy to overlook established hometown restaurants, especially with all the noise that goes along with new openings. But there are reasons that icons last over time while most of the newbies last two years or less.

So after enjoying great meals in the past at Marietta Fish Market then staying away for more than a year, it was time for a return trip. And what we found reminded us why we’ve always enjoyed this long-time local favorite.

We always visit popular and crowded restaurants during weekend lunch periods or mid-week dinners to avoid the largest crowds. But, given the huge kitchen and seating areas at Marietta Fish Market combined with very efficient service, we’ve never had a long wait regardless of our visit time.

There’s always a large selection of fresh fish to choose from at Marietta Fish Market, plus an expansive menu of fan favorites that includes virtually anything that swims. As active 60-somethings, we often will share an appetizer and one platter, always leaving stuffed like a fresh flounder and carrying home a to-go box for a second meal.

On this lunch trip, we started with a Bang Bang shrimp and calamari appetizer, then added a small grilled shrimp platter plus the honey-citrus glazed salmon and jumbo shrimp special.


As it turned out, that was WAAAAAYYYYYYY too much food for two of us, and we left with a huge to-go container on this trip. But that was after we did our best to demolish the fresh, tasty dishes served to our table by the friendly staff.


Our Bang Bang shrimp and calamari included generous portions of both seafoods, fried to perfection and then tossed in a spicy and lucious mayo-based sauce that clung to the items with every tasty bite.


Our grilled items came to us at the right temperature, moist and bright with a light baste of seasoned butter. And despite having both salmon and shrimp. neither was overcooked and rubbery, a common problem in big kitchens with under-trained staff.


The side portions were generous, but honestly only the tasty hush puppies are worth noting here. The others were good, but not spectacular. But hey, who goes to a seafood market for the sides?


As mentioned, we’ve enjoyed this local icon many times over our eight years in Georgia. On other visits, we’ve selected and always been delighted by dishes like Shrimp and Cheese Grits, the Seashore Combo, the seafood pastas and the original-recipe salmon croquettes.

Other frequent diner favorites (according to their online reviews) include:

  • Snow Crab Legs: A popular choice among diners.
  • Fried Jumbo Shrimp: Another highly-rated dish.
  • Marietta Fish Market (MFM) Fried Seafood Combo: A well-received option for those who want to try multiple seafood items.
  • Broiled MFM Maryland Crab Cakes:


Our only disappointment here was that we didn’t plan well enough to enjoy the fresh-baked desserts. So we took a picture of the dessert case as a reminder to plan ahead for our next visit.

You’ll find Marrietta Fish Market at 3185 Canton Rd, Marietta, GA.

We Smoked This Pizza With Our Ninja Cooking Skills

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I’m not a chef, but I love good food.

And I don’t profess to be an expert at grilling, though I do occasionally test my grill skills.

But let me just share with you that I’ve found an easy, fast and delicious way to enjoy pizza. I smoke it on my electric Ninja Woodfired Grill. It’s the most simple method I’ve found to get a unique tasting pizza, fast. In fact, cooking this pizza only takes about six to eight minutes of grill time. But you’ll need some prep time to get things ready, though a few practical shortcuts can speed that along, too.

After just seven minutes of cooking on the high setting, our pizza had a crispy crust and wonderful smoky flavor.

After downsizing last summer, we no longer had the right kind of space for a traditional grill or smoker. So when I read about the Ninja Woodfired Grill, it seemed like a perfect answer. We purchased one, and have been pleased with every grilled, air-fried, and smoked item we’ve prepared on this outdoor unit.

Smoke ‘Em If You Got ‘Em

Since it arrived, I’ve wanted to try a smoked pizza. I know, to some of you that sounds as crazy as putting pineapple on pizza. But to me, the idea of a crispy crust and traditional pizza toppings tinged with a tasty smoky flavor made me salivate like one of Pavlov’s dogs after the bell rang.

Inspired by a YouTube video we found, we decided to give it a try. We made a quick shopping trip to grab the required ingredients. And to make things more interesting, we invited our grandson over to help since he’s developed an interest in cooking.

For our first attempt, we used a fresh dough mixed in our countertop mixer. But for a shortcut, store-bought dough will significantly speed the process.

(You’ll notice here that I switched from the first-person “I” to the first person plural, “We.” That’s for two reasons. One, my wife Glenda was essential to every step of this process, including purchasing the Ninja Grill from my birthday last year. And second, we all know that no married man can accomplish anything good without the advice, guidance, and help of his wife. So, let’s give credit where it’s due. From here on out, it’s WE, and that means MOSTLY Glenda.)

For our first attempt, we did everything from scratch and with fresh ingredients. From making dough in our countertop mixer, rolling out crusts forms on our countertop, to hand cutting fresh vegetables, nothing was premade. My wife and elementary-aged grandson, Mason, handled prep. I was responsible for the Ninja grill moves.

To fit our pizza on the Ninja Woodfired Grill, my wife used a brilliant idea to mark the size on parchment paper. This helped our grandson roll out dough to perfect dimensions, and made transfer easy.

Glenda’s Neat Trick

Glenda devised a neat trick to get the dough dimensions right for the Ninja Grill. She traced the grill size on to parchment paper. That made it easy for Mason to help with rolling the dough. Plus, the parchment paper made it easy to move the pizza on to the grill, and greatly simplified clean-up, too.

By the time we were done with our lunchtime experiment, we made five pizzas, ranging from cheese and pepperoni to a fully-loaded “house special.” Quick adjustments along the way resulted in better cooked and crispier crusts, and a range of smokiness as well.

We learned that, if pressed for time, premade, store-bought dough is your friend. So are precut vegetables. Using those will save a significant amount of time, and you’ll give up virtually nothing in taste — though you may have to sacrifice your chef credentials. Those two changes mean you can have two, fresh-baked, unique flavored pizzas from your Ninja Woodfired Grill in about 30 minutes.

If you need step-by-step instructions, check out this YouTube video from Peter Hudson of Cooking With Peter. His tips gave us a great starting point, which we modified with our own experience.

When we were finished, we had five pizzas ranging from simple cheese and pepperoni to our own topping-packed “house special.” We learned a few tweaks with each attempt.

Tragic Crash Secrets Resolved After 82 Years

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A deadly plane crash. A cryptic epitaph. And mysteries that endured for decades.

Their story ended with a cryptic epitaph on a Marietta National Cemetery headstone: Died in a plane crash WWII April 29, 1942. And our interest in this story began with that same epitaph.

General William T. Sherman once proclaimed, “War is hell.” And in a story hidden behind a mysterious memorial at Marietta National Cemetery, we learned that even training for war holds its own dangerous risks and gruesome outcomes.

Our Journey Begins

Crash secrets about this crew endured for 82 years.
After spotting this headstone and its cryptic epitaph on multiple occasions at Marietta National Cemetery, we decided to pursue the story and its mysteries.

Walking in Section A near the Greek Revival style rostrum during one of our first visits to the cemetery, we found a large headstone listing the names of five Army fliers. Under the names, ranks, birth dates and birth places of the fliers, an inscription reveals, “Died in plane crash WWII April 29 1942.”  At the time, we were writing a post about the group memorials at the cemetery, but we didn’t include this one.

On a return visit, working on a post about decorated veterans and notable figures, we were seeking the Section A burial locations of Lt. Col. Wilford Phelps and Col. Blake Van Leer. We spotted the fliers’ headstone again. Once more, we were intrigued, but it didn’t work with the focus of our article.

As this Memorial Day approached, we remembered that mysterious headstone with its cryptic inscription. Now seemed the perfect opportunity to honor the memories of the fliers by researching and telling their story. But as we explored the story and the circumstance of their deaths, we’re ended up left with a few mysteries that we’re still unable to explain.

The Importance of Air Power

Recruiting posters for US Army fliers, used in Crash Secrets article
After the attack on Pearl Harbor, the US aggressively recruited and trained fliers for its small air force. Crews were trained hastily at new and expanded air fields throughout the US.

In the early days of World War II, the US rushed desperately to arm itself for a multi-front war. And with advances in aviation since the end of World War 1, military strategy demanded a strong, expansive, and deadly air power capability that could strike almost anywhere, anytime.

That reality exploded on the US with the surprise attack on Pearl Harbor, as the Japanese used hundreds of carrier-based airplanes to cripple America’s Pacific Fleet. And the British also learned the necessity of a defensive air force as London faced deadly daily bombing raids by the German Lufwafte.

Thus, the US, sought thousands of new recruits to become members of its flying forces. Here in Marietta, a new bomber plant was started and finished quickly, producing Liberator bombers that would prove essential to the offensive bombing capabilities of the US and its allies.

Planes Everywhere

Across the country, airfields sprouted from cornfields, with runways pointing in virtually every direction. McDill Army Air Base near Tampa, Florida, became home to the four-engine Boeing B-17 heavy bombers and the twin-engine Martin B-26 Marauder medium bomber.  Combining the size, weight, engine power and quirk handling of these new war machines with inexperienced crews often led to disastrous consequences.

Vintage postcard of McDill, for our Crash Secrets article.
A vintage postcard depicts McDill Field, located at the edge of Tampa Bay near Tampa, FL. The base was home to crews learning to fly the B-26 Marauder and B-17 Flying Fortress.

In fact, according to published reports in military history journals, the B-26 Marauder proved especially problematic. The plane earned its nicknames “Widowmaker” and “Flying Coffin” from the numerous training accidents. And while the B-17 eventually proved to be incredibly durable and powerful war birds, the new pilots often struggled to control the huge beasts. Reports in local newspapers noted frequent training flight crashes. They even quoted a new Army Air Force colloquialism for the frequent accidents at the base located on a peninsula south of Tampa: “One a day in Tampa Bay.

The New Planes and Flyers Arrive

Each day brought new arrivals to McDill. On Feb. 6, 1942, a new Boeing B-17E, registration number 41-2566, was delivered to the airfield from the main Boeing assembly plant in Everett, Washington. (SOURCE: American Air Museum).

After marrying his college sweetheart on Feb. 20, 1942, in his native Oregon, Lt. Ernest W. Robertson and his new wife transferred to Tampa, FL. Robertson, a guard on the University of Oregon football team and its captain his senior year, had been assigned as a pilot to advanced bomber training at McDill. (SOURCE: Newspaper)

Robertson would join five others in a new bomber crew. Second Lieutenant Joseph S. Smith was a Texas native. Fellow officer Richard R. Carnevale joined the cockpit crew from Lockbourne, OH. Privates Marvin C. Brown and William C. Wimf hailed most recently from Michigan, though Wimf was an Arkansas native. The crew was rounded out by Private William C. Gearhart of Pennsylvania.

B-17 Bomber crew at McDill, for our Crash Secrets article
B-17 bomber crews included a cockpit crew, bombardier, and a gunnery crew. A typical crew was photographed here with their new plane in March 1942 at McDill Field near Tampa.

A similar situation existed at nearby Orlando Army Air Field, home to P-40 fighters. There, Second Lieut. Robert S. Boyce, of Chillicothe, OH, piloted one of the single-crew fighters that often were to escort and protect bombers on their deadly missions. An unmarried graduate of Washington and Lee University and the army’s advance flying school at Kelly field, TX,  he was transferred to Orlando Air Base from Key Field, Meridian, MS., on March 25, according to newspaper accounts.

Rigorous and Realistic Training

While the day-to-day routines of these specific B-17 and P-40 fliers are unknown, the training they received was well documented and consistently implemented. It’s likely that the crews had completed ground and simulator training before arriving at their Florida bases, an observation largely based on historical documents and archives from World War II training programs and manuals.

Once in Florida, the crews homed in on turning their assigned planes into precise weapons. They had graduated from simulators to real cockpits, often taking their first turns inside the powerful – and finicky – aircraft.

The bomber crews progressed from basic flying to more advanced skills such as formation flying, aerial gunnery, bombing runs, and navigational exercises. For the fighter pilots, training included aerobatics, dogfighting maneuvers, aerial gunnery, and tactical formations.

P-40 airplane in flights, for our Crash Secrets article.
In training flights, P-40 pilots practiced their flying skills, including aerial acrobatics, dogfights, and flying to rendezvous with B-17 armadas.

And, in anticipation of forming the combined bomber and fighter groups that would form aerial convoys to assigned target, the crews from different backgrounds, training and background would practice essential rendezvous and pursuit maneuvers.

A Fateful Event

As with many World War 2 domestic training crashes, details of whatever occurred on April 29, 1942, are sketchy. The emergency nature of war preparedness and need for military secrecy often combined to limit available information on catastrophic events. But here’s what we do know, according to accounts published in the Orlando Sentinal on April 30, 1942, and other subsequent press and official accounts.

“A multi-engined bomber from MacDill Field, Tampa, and a pursuit ship from Orlando Air Base yesterday collided in mid-air about nine miles west of Orlando and killed all occupants: four second lieutenants and three privates. Colonel Thomas S. Voss, commandant, Orlando Air Base, announced.

“Those listed as dead were Second Lieutenants Ernest W. Robertson, 25, Eugene, Ore., who leaves his widow, Virginia, at Tampa; Joseph S. Smith, Yoakum, Texas; and Richard R. Carnevale, Columbus, Ohio; three privates, M.C. Brown, 2136 Antoinette Avenue, Detroit, Mich.; L.A. Gerhart, Wernersville, Pa.; and (William) E. Wimf, Holland, Mich., all aboard the bomber; and Second Lieutenant Robert S. Boyce, 23, son of Mr. and Mrs. Howard Boyce of Chillicothe, Ohio, who piloted the pursuit plane.

“Colonel Voss immediately named a board of inquiry into the crash composed of Major W.E. Baker and Captains Griffin Davis and W.R. Yancey.

“The bomber, following the crash, plunged into the middle of an orange grove at the United States Department of Agriculture Sub-Tropical Fruit Research Station just off the Hiawassee Road.

“The pursuit plane crashed near Hoequist Field, two miles away, about six miles south of Orlando. Both planes burned.

Information card on B-17, for our crash secrets article
The crash was reported in local and regional newspapers. We found additional information on the planes involved by searching the Aviation Safety Network database.

The Gruesome Aftermath

The fact that the planes collided in midair, crashed and then burned led to gruesome realities for those who were flying and those who worked on the recovery. For those of us who have covered or worked at air crash scenes, the tragic outcome and horrible sights are among memories we hope to erase, but that never go away.

The remains of Lieut. Robert S. Boyce, 23, of Chillicothe, Ohio, were recovered individually. His remains were sent to his family in Ohio, and he was buried at Mount Moriah Cemetery, Withamsville, Clermont County, Ohio.

According to archived records of the Carey Hand Funeral Home in Orlando, FL, the fragmented remains of the bomber crew arrived there on April 29. The remains were cremated together on Sunday, May 3, then placed in one box as the funeral home awaited further instructions from the Army. The records indicate the Army paid $1,500 for one coffin, and all handling and arrangements for the deceased bomber crew were approved by Capt. Frank A. Perri of the Army Medical Corps.

Mystery at Marietta and Beyond

As we mentioned when we discovered the memorial to the bomber crew at Marietta National Cemetery, it includes a cryptic epitaph and the names of five Army fliers. The name of 2nd Lt. Richard R. Carnevale doesn’t appear on the Marietta Memorial. Instead, there is a headstone for Carnevale at Saint Joseph Cemetery in Lockbourne, OH.

But the funeral records indicate the bomber crew was cremated together and their remains placed in one coffin. So, who actually is buried at Marietta National Cemetery?

Crew headstone for our Crash Secrets article
The headstone for Lt. Richard R. Carnevale in an Ohio cemetery likely is a cenotaph, a memorial used when a person is missing or not recovered. Records indicate that Carnevale’s remains were cremated and buried with his crewmates.

Then, there’s confusion about the actual type of plane in which the bomber crew flew and died.

The newspaper accounts reference only that it was a “multi-engined bomber from McDill Field,” and doesn’t reference the specific type of plane. A listing in the database of the Aviation Safety Network indicates that a B-17E Flying Fortress with registration 41-2566 crashed on April 29, 1942, just west of Orlando. And records of the American Air Museum list a B-17 registration listing for 41-2566. But the heavy, long-range, deadly-armed B-17s usually flew with a crew of 10, required for manning all the guns around the airship.

The other primary multi-engined bomber assigned to McDill in 1942 was the B-26 Marauder. A lighter and shorter-range aircraft, it flew with a crew of six. Thus, with six crew members killed in the April 29 crash, which plane were they flying?

Likely Answers from Observations

After more research, we believe we’ve resolved – if not formerly solved – those two remaining mysteries.

Most likely, the remains of all six bomber crew members are interred at Marietta National Cemetery at plots A, 945-B-C. Since the funeral home recorded that all remains were placed in one box after cremation, it would have been impossible to bury the remains of 2nd Lt. Richard Carnevale in Ohio and five others at Marietta.

Instead, the memorial to Lt. Carnevale in Ohio likely is a cenotaph, or an empty grave and marker memorializing a missing or lost person. Carnevale’s Ohio grave marker appears to be standard issue for the time for US Army veterans, a benefit offered to families of veterans then and now through the US Department of Veteran’s Affairs. It’s also likely that, if the Carnevale family ordered a separate headstone for a memorial in Ohio, Department of Veteran’s Affairs regulations prohibited his listing on a second grave marker in Marietta.

As to the plane in which the bomber crew flew, we believe it mostly likely was a B-17E. We found two database references to the registration number and reports of a crash, but one was incomplete and the other included an incorrect date and the incorrect name of the fighter pilot. Still, all the other information matches the crash reports. We could find no specific references to a B-26 Marauder crash near Orlando. Instead, we think the 10-crew B-17E flew that day without some of its gunners. Whether gunners were assigned and left off the flight or – more likely – a full crew had not yet been assigned, we can’t ascertain fully.

Our Growing Series on Marietta National Cemetery

Since we live nearby, we frequently walk the pathways through Marietta National Cemetery. We’re often intrigued by what we find, and develop new articles. You can find all our posts about Marietta National Cemetery and the heroes resting in its hills by clicking here.

Marietta National Cemetery Memorial Ceremony
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