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The Biltmore Shines Brilliantly for the Holidays

After Hurricane Helene ravaged the areas with floods, the legendary Biltmore Estate reopened recently, just in time for its annual Holiday event that is a tradition for many extended families.

And as usual, the main home and other areas of the estate are shining brightly, illuminated by hundreds of thousands of flickering lights, countless fresh-cut trees and imaginative decorations throughout the huge estate.

Biltmore Interior Illuminated for Holidays
Inside, the Biltmore is illuminated by hundreds of thousands of flickering lights and countless fresh-cut trees.

For our pilgrimage, we enjoyed a Sunday evening tour of the main house and a quiet day exploring the gardens, winery, restaurants and the shops of Antler Hill Village. Frequent Biltmore visitors will be aware of on-property closures remaining after Hurricane Helene. But those who visit less often simply will be dazzled by what they experience at the estate during their visit.

By far, the evening Biltmore Candlelight Christmas tours remain the stunning highlight of a holiday visit. While the crowds we endured were sizeable, that didn’t stop us from enjoying the flickering candlelight and the extravagant decorations that adorn the massive house. And that was made even more festive by live choral and music performances placed strategically inside. Yes, visitors can tour the home during the day (saving a few dollars on a ticket) to experience the incredible decorations. But if you’re visiting, why not get the full experience and be amazed by how the house is transformed during the evening illuminations?

Biltmore Interior Illuminated for Holidays
Touring the Biltmore house during the day is an option, but why not get the full experience and be amazed by the evening illuminations?

One of our best decisions was enjoying some of the casual dining options on-site during our visit. Since we arrived early for our evening tour but weren’t particularly hungry, we created our own informal courtyard picnic with offerings from the Courtyard Cafe and the Bake Shop. Some fresh-baked goods, a nice salad, an espresso drink and some rich hot chocolate were perfect for a light evening meal after our late, off-site lunch.

Performances at the Biltmore for Holidays
We stopped to enjoy choral and musical performances throughout the Biltmore’s incredible gilded-age rooms.

As we toured the estate and Antler Village on the second day of our visit, we meandered into Cedric’s for some pub grub, a beer and some wine. The portions were satisfying, the beer cold and the ambiance reflected that of a comfortable pub.

We stayed until early evening, watching the sun set, then the twinkling lights awaken to illuminate the village area. Of course, no day would be complete without a dessert, so we made a stop for ice cream just before sunset — getting a sugar rush going to optimize the nighttime illumination.

Antler Village at the Biltmore for the Holidays
Beyond the main house, Antler Village also features a plethora of twinkling lights and some yummy delights.

Yes, there are lots of other dining options at the estate — including some incredible Forbes four-star fine-dining at for breakfast, lunch, tea and dinner at The Dining Room — but our appetites (and a failure to make reservations in advance!) didn’t allow for those experiences.

Crowds line up at the Biltmore for the Holidays
Weekends at the Biltmore Estate are crowded, so go on a weeknight to avoid the largest crowds.

For lodging and other dining, we chose off-site locations for convenience, price and to spread a few dollars throughout the local economy. We used a walking tour we found on the GPS My City to walk through some of the downtown area. Some of our favorite stops included the art deco City Hall, the Woolworth Walk and Kress Emporium — both inside historic old department store sites — and the Grove Arcade, formerly a shopping center now converted again to shops and residences. Downtown we also stumbled upon the quirky Asheville Iron Sculpture and Shopping Daze Sculpture, then investigated more about the provenance of these artworks.

Post Biltmore touring in Asheville, Shopping Daze
We used a walking tour from the GPS My City app to meander through downtown, stumbling across this “Shopping Daze” sculpture before investigating further.

And, that exploration led us to artwork of a slightly different kind: the architectural wonder of the masonry elliptical dome inside of the Basilica of Saint Lawrence. For those who love unique architecture, we highly recommend that you download The Art & Architecture of The Basilica of Saint Lawrence, then put the Basilica on your visitation list.

Since we drove from the Atlanta area, we also were able to enjoy some other nearby touring on the way there and on our return trip home.

Post Biltmore touring in Asheville, Basilica of St. Lawrence
The Basilica of Saint Lawrence and its masonry elliptical dome are unique architectural wonders.

But if you’re planning on visiting in 2024, be aware that Asheville and much of the surrounding area were hard hit by flooding from Hurricane Helene. Thus, you’ll want to make lodging reservations far in advance AND check out the North Caroline Department of Transportation website for all the latest on road conditions in the region.

What You’ll See From Panoramic Pine Mountain

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(Updated September 2024. First published October 2020)

As the most visited national recreation area in the country, many Cobb County and Atlanta area residents are familiar with the climb and view at Kennesaw Mountain. For those wanting a change in scenery, northerly neighbor Pine Mountain offers a panoramic view coupled with excellent hiking.

Rising to 1,562 feet at its summit, Cartersville’s Pine Mountain offers a 180+ degree view looking South toward Atlanta from the David Archer Lookout. But what exactly do you see when making the two mile and 650-plus foot vertical ascent to one of the taller mountains nearest to Atlanta?

The 1,562-foot summit of Pine Mountain is marked by this survey marker. Standing on the rocks nearest the marker provides a spectacular 180-degree panoramic view to the South.

After hiking at Pine Mountain on several occasions, our curiosity was piqued. So we went back up again on an overcast day when the ozone and humidity were relatively low. Our goal: spot, photograph and identify the key landmarks visible to the naked eye.

For the unfamiliar, this Pine Mountain is adjacent to the Army Corps of Engineers-managed area that includes Allatoona Dam, Lake Allatoona, 13,000 acres formerly owned by antebellum iron magnate Mark Anthony Cooper, and the 270 miles of shoreline created by the jagged waterline of the flood control lake.  We clarify here because Georgia is home to several Pine Mountains, including the most well-known near Warm Springs, GA, home to FDR State Park, the Little White House and Calloway Gardens.

Except at non-peak times, it’s not routine to spot the native forest animals like chipmunks, squirrels, foxes, racoons, the occasional deer, and a sampling of Georgia snakes. But careful and observant hikers will spot many birds, insects and forest floor dwellers.

The trails at Cartersville’s Pine Mountain are well-traveled and well-marked dirt paths. Each features approximately 700 feet of upward elevation change, though once you descend and climb over the hilly route, an activity tracker will record more. Along the way, hikers enjoy mountainside streams; forests with towering trees, ferns, native wildflowers and other flora; and small animals including chipmunks, squirrels, foxes, racoons, the occasional deer, a sampling of Georgia snakes and lots of insects.

West Trail, for Convenience

The easiest, most convenient access to Pine Mountain trails is the West Trailhead, located on Komatsu Drive and just off I-75. But with convenience comes crowding. The large parking lot can be at or near capacity on busy weekends.

The West Trail departs the trailhead off Komatsu Drive, then heads downward to a creek, the lowest point on the hike. From there, the nearly-700 foot climb to the summit begins, up the West Loop Trail.

Hiking the West Trail to the summit and using the loop route covers approximately 2.4 miles. From the lot, the trail heads down toward Hurricane Hollow and a bridge over the creek at the lowest point on the hike. Now, the 678-foot climb to the summit begins. For the shortest (and steepest!) route up, take a right turn at the West Loop trail intersection, navigating a series of switchbacks and following the markers for the one-mile journey.

At the lowest points and along streams, the forest floor is filled with ferns. As you climb, large fields of granite rocks and huge outcroppings line the path.

Along the way under the canopy, you’ll pass patches of forest floor ferns in the wetter areas, large granite rock fields and outcroppings, and (on crowded days) potentially lots of other trail users. On the descent, follow the opposite branch of the West Loop trail for a slightly longer, but less-steep walk.

Concrete trail makers along with the blaze marks on trees along each route make navigation easy. Here, the West Loop meets the entry/exit trail to the Komatsu Drive trailhead parking lot. Don’t worry, the well-traveled paths are easy to follow.

East Trail, for Solitude, Somedays

We prefer the less-trafficked East Trail, though beware that mountain bikes are allowed here on Wednesdays and Saturdays. The trail begins at a small parking lot off Georgia Spur 20, a wooded backroad that follows the shore of Lake Allatoona to its terminus at the Corps of Engineers offices and the Allatoona Dam overlook.

We prefer hiking the East Trail, as it is more isolated and less crowded most days. But beware, it’s open to mountain bikes on Wednesday and Saturday. The trail starts with a quick 40-foot climb before intersecting with the loop point. This also is the joining point to the Cooper’s Mountain Connector, if you want to extend your trip.

This loop hike begins with a quick 40-foot climb. Reaching an emergency call box, we prefer taking the left branch and heading up the steepest and shortest route (approximately 1.3 miles) to the summit. The longer return route (approximately 1.8 miles) slopes more gently, includes several switch backs, and takes a deep-dive down to follow a small stream before a short climb back to the starting point. Generally, the terrain, flora and geologic features are similar here to the West Trail.

Both West and East trails feature several switch backs. After a few of these, it can feel like you meet yourself coming and going.

Cooper’s Furnace Connector

For those looking for longer routes, the Pine Mountain trail system can be reached from Cooper’s Furnace. Just follow the (NAME) trail toward the summit, looking for a well-marked connector trail to the East Loop trail. Taking this route adds approximately 2.6 miles to the East Trail.

Side note: we’ve done a separate blog on our hikes at Cooper’s Furnace.

The View at David Archer Overlook

Since all Pine Mountain trails feature loop routes, the most common midpoint includes an extended stop at the 1,562-foot David Archer overlook. Archer Overlook features a nearly 180-degree view. facing roughly South Southeast. You can see Atlanta on a clear day, though on our visits, weather, humidity, and haze has often made spotting the city building impossible.

We were curious about what we saw at the peak, so we did a little research. The labelled picture below and the descriptions that follow should help you. (Hint: for best results, enlarge your browser settings to 150% or 200% to see the picture labels with the text below. Or, to see the picture and labels best, right click on the photo and select: Open in new tab, then enlarge that to 150%. We’re working on a rotating panorama, but so far, it’s beyond our capabilities.)

Standing on any rock near the brass US Coast and Geodetic Survey marker at the peak, your view will include, from left to right:

To see the picture and labels best, right click on the photo and select: Open in new tab, then enlarge that to 150% or greater. Items in green are closest to Pine Mountain.
  • Sweat Mountain, distant beyond the lakes and just over 18 miles away. Sweat Mountain rises to approximately 1,600 feet and is located between Woodstock and Alpharetta.
  • Red Top Mountain, in the nearby state park that bears its name, the 961-foot peak is visible behind the white boat shed roofs of Park Marina on Lake Allatoona. The question here: does Red Top really qualify as a mountain?
  • Buckhead and Uptown Atlanta. When humidity, ozone or air pollution don’t hide them, some of Atlanta’s tallest buildings appear next in the counter-clockwise rotation. Buildings in Buckhead are farther left, with the Bank of America Building appearing approximately 37 miles in the distance just before Kennesaw Mountain rises to block the view of downtown.
On a clear day without haze, humidity or air pollution, Atlanta’s tallest buildings are visible from Buckhead to Midtown. Just look directly over the communications tower on Vineyard Mountain to find them. At far right, the Bank of America Building, approximately 37 miles away.
  • Vineyard Mountain, just under 1.5 miles away, Vineyard Mountain forms the southern anchor wall of the Allatoona Dam. You’ll may spot a communication tower rising from near the 1,348-foot peak of Vineyard Mountain, which also is home to several strenuous hiking trails.
  • Kennesaw Mountain, approximately 17 miles in the distance, and to the right of Vineyard Mountain. Hikers and history buffs will recognize the higher peak of Kennesaw Mountain at 1,801 feet, and the lower, 1,624-ft peak of Little Kennesaw, both of which housed dominating cannon placements during the Civil War battle.
  • Signal Mountain tops out at 1,178 feet, the slightly-tallest and center of three closely-grouped, nearby peaks.
  • Cartersville Mining District, including the currently-operating New Riverside Ochre Company.  Including the nearby area defined by the US Bureau of Land Management, the Cartersville Mining District lists 347 registered mines, including 130 producing locations and several registered as prospecting for gold and titanium.
  • Etowah Historical Site. Featuring mounds built by Etowah tribes between 1000 A.D. to 1550 A.D., this state historical site is located four miles away on the Etowah River.
  • Georgia Power’s Plant Bowen. A large complex 10.5 miles away, Plant Bowen is sometimes confused for a nuclear plant because cooling towers shapes. The four-unit Bowen Steam Plant is one of the largest coal-fired power plants in the US. Often, white condensation clouds rise upwards from the towers.
  • City of Cartersville. Just before the tree line resumes, the City of Cartersville spreads out below. Look closely and you may spot the golden dome of the historic Bartow County Courthouse reflecting sunbeams.

Who Was David Archer?

Our curiosity was piqued by the name of the overlook at Pine Mountain.  If yours is, too, here’s a short bit of the backstory.

Our Garmin Activity Stats

As usual, we tracked our activity with our trusty Garmin Vivoactive HR watch, which includes GPS, altitude, pace, and heart rate information. We’ve posted it below for the West and East Trails. Remember when looking at exertion data that the device was attached to a 63-year-old man.

We’ve added labels (in orange) to our maps. Plus, the colors on the trails indicate our relative traveling speeds:

  • Blue/Green: Stop and slowest
  • Yellow, Orange, Burnt Orange, Red: Accelerating to fastest

West Trail, July 2020, at 81F

Hiking with our daughter and two grandsons, aged seven and five, and a small, curious dog on a leash, we meandered up the left fork to the summit in 41 minutes, taking the left fork of the loop trail first.

East Trail, October 2020, 61F

My wife, Glenda, and I hiked this alone, taking the left and shortest route up first.

Don’t Miss Nearby

  1. Cooper’s Furnace Day Use Area. Great river views, family-friendly hiking trails, a playground plus ruins of an old manufacturing site. A parking pass is required, but free with a National Park pass.
  2. Allatoona Dam. Enter Cooper’s Furnace Day Use Area and follow the access road to the end. Park, and walk along the paved path for great views of the dam.
  3. Red Top Mountain State Park. Across Lake Allatoona from Pine Mountain, the Red Top Mountain State Park offers lakefront hiking, boat rentals at the marina, and lots of picnic areas.
  4. Etowah State Historical Site. One of Georgia’s state historical site, it features a small museum full of artifacts plus walking access to the three tallest mounds.
  5. Cartersville Lunch Spots. We’re always hungry after our morning hikes. Some of our favorite post-hike stops in Cartersville include Ross Diner, a tiny joint at 17 N. Wall St. with no website, Moore’s Gourmet Market, and Appalachian Grill, the most upscale of the bunch.

Other Fun Family Fare

We have lots of other local, Georgia and regional adventures on the menu, too. Just head to our home page at OurTravelCafe.com and browse the nearly 60 options for family fun.

Make Panama Canal a Bucket List Voyage

If you’re putting together bucket list activities, here’s one to consider: A cruise vacation through the Panama Canal.

We cruised the Panama Canal back in April 2024 on Holland America. Leaving our North Georgia home for a departure from Ft. Lauderdale, we cruised the Caribbean, Panama Canal and the west coast of Central America, ending our journey in beautiful, sunny San Diego.

After putting off a Panama Canal transit for several years, we finally did it in April 2024. Now we recommend it to everyone as a bucket list trip.

Honestly, we put off this trip for several years thinking the route, ports, and adventure just wasn’t for us. Boy, were we wrong. So now, we’re big fans of this route and recommend it to all our cruising friends as a “bucket list” trip.

And here are the five top reasons why:

History. The Panama Canal story may be the opening chapter in America’s world leadership. After the French failed in a canal attempt, the US took over the effort. Within 10 years, the Panama Canal opened in August 1914. The full story is filled with history, intrigue, revolutionaries, politics, tragedy, and triumph. Before you go, we highly recommend reading historian David McCullough’s excellent and detailed book, “The Path Between the Seas: The Creation of the Panama Canal 1870-1914.”

Sailing through the Gatun Locks on the Gulf end of the canal, the lock house displays the year 1913. It’s a great reminder of the incredible history of the building and beyond.

Geography. To really understand the canal story, you have to see the local geography. Yes, you can read about the heights of the mountains and depths of the valleys. Sure, there are descriptions about the dense jungle. And of course, you can see photos of the massive lake created as part of the canal project. But approaching, transiting and departing the canal will change your understanding, perspective and world view.

The original 51-mile canal was cut through mountains, required taming a wild river and gave birth to a giant lake. Then, a second canal was added as ships outgrew the original locks.

Innovation. No matter how you look at it, the Panama Canal is an engineering marvel of the modern world. After the French failed with their canal effort, good old American ingenuity, brashness and determination were required to “get ‘er done.” Seeing the original locks in operation gave me a sense of awe and pride. And watching the largest of ships bypass the original canal by following the same basic route and process reinforced my amazement.

Running parallel to the original canal and requiring fewer locks, the addition of a second canal accommodates larger ships and faster transit.

Beaches. While we generally are not beach vacation people, the variety of stops and beaches on a typical Panama Canal routing piqued our sun-and-sand interest. Most of these cruises make a stop in the Central Caribbean before calling at one of the Southern Caribbean ABC islands. (For us, Aruba and Caracao were on the itenerary.) Once through the Canal, the Pacific coast beacons. Based on advice we received from experienced Canal-cruisers, we selected other adventures in Costa Rica and Southern Mexico, and saved our beach outings for Puerto Vallarta and Cabo San Lucas.

A canal cruise isn’t just about the canal. Most cruise lines include multiple stops in the Caribbean and along the western coast of Central America, too. There’s lots of touring, nature and beach front to explore nearby.

Value. By watching prices during the cruise line’s ship repositioning season, you’ll likely find a great deal on a canal transit. Each Spring, cruise operators move ships from the Caribbean to Alaska. And they reverse that in the Fall. Each of these transits the canal. To fill repositioning voyages, cruise lines often offer deep discounts as compared to their regular fares. So it’s possible to get both a great adventure and a fantastic bargain by watching the options and prices.

Nature and natural beauty are a big part of any canal journey. Stops in tropical ports and near rain forests offer lots of nature-watching opportunities.

Here’s our final booking tip: if you have travel flexibility, look for deep discounts and last minute deals on a Panama Canal trip. After the cruise lines successfully sell cabins to those who plan in advance, empty cabins are discounted deeply. You’ll start seeing the deepest discounts on Spring canal transits beginning in November. Prices will drop again within 89 days of a repositioning departure, after the cancellation deadline for early bookers.

Stops on Our Voyage

To give you a taste of the scenery, here are lots of photos from some of our stops on this Panama Canal transit cruise:

Curacao

Having a bottle of Blue Curacao on the island of Curacao after arriving on a blue ship may be the definition of a cruise vacation.
Curacao is world-famous for its colorful buildings, artwork and scenery. Our tour bus certainly got us ready for a colorful day.
We chose an island tour that featured stops at some of the murals in Willemstad before heading out to a secluded beach.

Cartagena

The busy central plaza in Cartagena offered lively music, street performers, food carts, and lots of touring spots nearby.
The steeple of the Cathedral de Santa Catalina de Alejandria is an imposing centerpiece in Cartagena.
While the streets a best described as busy hubs of organized confusion, quiet courtyards offer peace and beauty.
What? Visit Columbia and NOT have coffee? You know us better than that!

Costa Rica

Hiking through a rainforest over swinging bridges proved to be a highlight — if not the wisest choice — of our stop in Costa Rica.
Rain forest. Butterflies. Need we say more?
We found this little guy trying to blend in with the scenery. No one tried kissing him to produce a prince.

Puerto Vallarta

The domed steeple of the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe towers over downtown Puerto Vallarta. We ventured inside for a closer look.
The Isla Rio Cuale River Walk is surrounded by vendor stands. Overhead, colorful flags and other decor provide protection from the sun. We later saw this location featured on an episode of The Amazing Race.
The Puerto Vallarta art walk features castings, murals and other works of art. The walk stretches along the shore.
When you run short of certain required supplies on day 14 of an 18-day trip, familiarity counts!
Leaving Puerto Vallarta, we spotted a pod of whales, including two playful juveniles.

Cabo San Lucas

We attended church services onboard Saturday evening to get an early Sunday start.
Nope, not us! But I wish we had rented kayaks for a shoreline paddle. Next time.
The beaches in Puerto Vallarta were uncrowded, with lots of options for water activities.

There’s a Video, Too!

Want more about our Panama Canal transit? We put together a video of the actual transit. Check it out:

Mountain Magic: Waterfalls, Cabin Bliss, and Family Fun 

We read lots of Facebook group posts and NextDoor inquires where someone’s asking: what’s the perfect Georgia weekend getaway for mountain magic? Well, after eight years, we’ve been here long enough to know that there’s not a good answer to that question.

Instead, there are an almost unlimited number of great answers when you consider the range of mountain magic options in North Georgia. So we won’t dare to say this is the perfect or best combination, but this waterfall weekend proved to be great fun for our family.

family gold mine tour in Georgia mountains
One our way to the Vogel State Park destination, we explored the Consolidated Gold Mine in Dahlonega.

On the way to this mountain magic getaway, we passed through historic Dahlonega, once the gold capitol of the Georgia and the eastern US. We couldn’t pass up a visit to the Consolidated Gold Mine, where we toured the abandoned mining shafts and learned about Georgia’s gold rush past. That also whetted our appetite to learn more about gold prospecting in Georgia.

For our two-night base, we rented a two-bedroom cabin at Vogel State Park. With a man-made lake for swimming and kayaking, a small waterfall on a park trail plus lots of other hiking options, the park delivered on all the amenities we sought.

Our cabin offered a full kitchen, porch furnished with rocking chairs and an outdoor eating area, a fire pit, two full bedrooms and two full baths. With the bedrooms separated by the large family area, adults could enjoy a quiet, peaceful night when we sent the kids and grandkids off to their side of the cabin.

The large porch at our Vogel State Park cabin featured rocking chairs and a table, perfect for dining and snacks while enjoying mountain views.

Nearby, we enjoyed side trips to multiple waterfalls during our stay.

For waterfalls, this is a pick-your-activity-length option. Onsite at Vogel State Park, Traylyta Falls pours over a small cliff just off the lake loop walking trail. A steep dirt trail leads to the wooden viewing stand for those who want views and photos. Adventurous visitors use a second trail to reach the rocky area just below the falls.

Trail to waterfall at Vogel State Park
Adventurous hikers can use an alternate trail to reach the creek bed below the viewing stand and Traylyta Falls at Vogel State Park

Our favorite falls on this trip were just a short ride away. We paired each with either hiking or other activities to make a day activity of each.

Just 12 minutes away by car, Helton Creek Falls features two small falls located in the Chattahoochee National Forest. Getting here requires a drive on a bumpy, shell and dirt road. We made it in our minivan, but not without some moments of trepidation. Then, there’s a short hike to the falls which tumble over two ledges along the creek. The lower falls offers a perfect location for wading and swimming, and we did a little of both with the grands. Later in the day, we returned to our cabin for a short walk, a cook-out and smores on the firepit.

Helton Creek near Vogel State Park
After a short ride over a bumpy gravel and dirt road, we arrived at Helton Creek Falls. We joined others in doing a little wading and swimming downstream from the larger falls.

On day two, after the adults enjoyed a morning walk around Lake Traylyta with grumbling kids in tow, we jumped in the minivan for the 30-minute ride to nearby Duke’s Falls. After hiking downhill approximately one mile, we stopped to enjoy the tall, tumbling falls. While others took “unofficial” trails down to the creek for swimming, we didn’t indulge here.

waterfall in Georgia mountains
Duke’s Creek Falls is a short ride from Vogel State Park. We’ve now visited multiple times in different seasons to get a better view of the tall, cascading falls.

Instead, we hiked back up, jumped back into the minivan, and headed into Helen. While we roamed the town, the kids filled their bellies with lunch, fudge and other treats. Mountain coasters, tubing and lots of other adventures beckoned to the adventurous youngsters. After everyone had indulged in their activity of choice, it was back to Vogel for a sunset cook-out.

On this trip, we didn’t have time to hike at neighboring Blood Mountain. So it’s on our “to-do” list for a fall or winter return. Plus, we made lots of notes on other hiking trails, waterfalls and scenic drives that we didn’t get to in just one short visit. So, we’ll definitely be back to explore more of this area.

Don’t Be Crabby: We Love Marietta Fish Market

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It’s easy to overlook established hometown restaurants, especially with all the noise that goes along with new openings. But there are reasons that icons last over time while most of the newbies last two years or less.

So after enjoying great meals in the past at Marietta Fish Market then staying away for more than a year, it was time for a return trip. And what we found reminded us why we’ve always enjoyed this long-time local favorite.

We always visit popular and crowded restaurants during weekend lunch periods or mid-week dinners to avoid the largest crowds. But, given the huge kitchen and seating areas at Marietta Fish Market combined with very efficient service, we’ve never had a long wait regardless of our visit time.

There’s always a large selection of fresh fish to choose from at Marietta Fish Market, plus an expansive menu of fan favorites that includes virtually anything that swims. As active 60-somethings, we often will share an appetizer and one platter, always leaving stuffed like a fresh flounder and carrying home a to-go box for a second meal.

On this lunch trip, we started with a Bang Bang shrimp and calamari appetizer, then added a small grilled shrimp platter plus the honey-citrus glazed salmon and jumbo shrimp special.


As it turned out, that was WAAAAAYYYYYYY too much food for two of us, and we left with a huge to-go container on this trip. But that was after we did our best to demolish the fresh, tasty dishes served to our table by the friendly staff.


Our Bang Bang shrimp and calamari included generous portions of both seafoods, fried to perfection and then tossed in a spicy and lucious mayo-based sauce that clung to the items with every tasty bite.


Our grilled items came to us at the right temperature, moist and bright with a light baste of seasoned butter. And despite having both salmon and shrimp. neither was overcooked and rubbery, a common problem in big kitchens with under-trained staff.


The side portions were generous, but honestly only the tasty hush puppies are worth noting here. The others were good, but not spectacular. But hey, who goes to a seafood market for the sides?


As mentioned, we’ve enjoyed this local icon many times over our eight years in Georgia. On other visits, we’ve selected and always been delighted by dishes like Shrimp and Cheese Grits, the Seashore Combo, the seafood pastas and the original-recipe salmon croquettes.

Other frequent diner favorites (according to their online reviews) include:

  • Snow Crab Legs: A popular choice among diners.
  • Fried Jumbo Shrimp: Another highly-rated dish.
  • Marietta Fish Market (MFM) Fried Seafood Combo: A well-received option for those who want to try multiple seafood items.
  • Broiled MFM Maryland Crab Cakes:


Our only disappointment here was that we didn’t plan well enough to enjoy the fresh-baked desserts. So we took a picture of the dessert case as a reminder to plan ahead for our next visit.

You’ll find Marrietta Fish Market at 3185 Canton Rd, Marietta, GA.

We Smoked This Pizza With Our Ninja Cooking Skills

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I’m not a chef, but I love good food.

And I don’t profess to be an expert at grilling, though I do occasionally test my grill skills.

But let me just share with you that I’ve found an easy, fast and delicious way to enjoy pizza. I smoke it on my electric Ninja Woodfired Grill. It’s the most simple method I’ve found to get a unique tasting pizza, fast. In fact, cooking this pizza only takes about six to eight minutes of grill time. But you’ll need some prep time to get things ready, though a few practical shortcuts can speed that along, too.

After just seven minutes of cooking on the high setting, our pizza had a crispy crust and wonderful smoky flavor.

After downsizing last summer, we no longer had the right kind of space for a traditional grill or smoker. So when I read about the Ninja Woodfired Grill, it seemed like a perfect answer. We purchased one, and have been pleased with every grilled, air-fried, and smoked item we’ve prepared on this outdoor unit.

Smoke ‘Em If You Got ‘Em

Since it arrived, I’ve wanted to try a smoked pizza. I know, to some of you that sounds as crazy as putting pineapple on pizza. But to me, the idea of a crispy crust and traditional pizza toppings tinged with a tasty smoky flavor made me salivate like one of Pavlov’s dogs after the bell rang.

Inspired by a YouTube video we found, we decided to give it a try. We made a quick shopping trip to grab the required ingredients. And to make things more interesting, we invited our grandson over to help since he’s developed an interest in cooking.

For our first attempt, we used a fresh dough mixed in our countertop mixer. But for a shortcut, store-bought dough will significantly speed the process.

(You’ll notice here that I switched from the first-person “I” to the first person plural, “We.” That’s for two reasons. One, my wife Glenda was essential to every step of this process, including purchasing the Ninja Grill from my birthday last year. And second, we all know that no married man can accomplish anything good without the advice, guidance, and help of his wife. So, let’s give credit where it’s due. From here on out, it’s WE, and that means MOSTLY Glenda.)

For our first attempt, we did everything from scratch and with fresh ingredients. From making dough in our countertop mixer, rolling out crusts forms on our countertop, to hand cutting fresh vegetables, nothing was premade. My wife and elementary-aged grandson, Mason, handled prep. I was responsible for the Ninja grill moves.

To fit our pizza on the Ninja Woodfired Grill, my wife used a brilliant idea to mark the size on parchment paper. This helped our grandson roll out dough to perfect dimensions, and made transfer easy.

Glenda’s Neat Trick

Glenda devised a neat trick to get the dough dimensions right for the Ninja Grill. She traced the grill size on to parchment paper. That made it easy for Mason to help with rolling the dough. Plus, the parchment paper made it easy to move the pizza on to the grill, and greatly simplified clean-up, too.

By the time we were done with our lunchtime experiment, we made five pizzas, ranging from cheese and pepperoni to a fully-loaded “house special.” Quick adjustments along the way resulted in better cooked and crispier crusts, and a range of smokiness as well.

We learned that, if pressed for time, premade, store-bought dough is your friend. So are precut vegetables. Using those will save a significant amount of time, and you’ll give up virtually nothing in taste — though you may have to sacrifice your chef credentials. Those two changes mean you can have two, fresh-baked, unique flavored pizzas from your Ninja Woodfired Grill in about 30 minutes.

If you need step-by-step instructions, check out this YouTube video from Peter Hudson of Cooking With Peter. His tips gave us a great starting point, which we modified with our own experience.

When we were finished, we had five pizzas ranging from simple cheese and pepperoni to our own topping-packed “house special.” We learned a few tweaks with each attempt.

Tragic Crash Secrets Resolved After 82 Years

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A deadly plane crash. A cryptic epitaph. And mysteries that endured for decades.

Their story ended with a cryptic epitaph on a Marietta National Cemetery headstone: Died in a plane crash WWII April 29, 1942. And our interest in this story began with that same epitaph.

General William T. Sherman once proclaimed, “War is hell.” And in a story hidden behind a mysterious memorial at Marietta National Cemetery, we learned that even training for war holds its own dangerous risks and gruesome outcomes.

Our Journey Begins

Crash secrets about this crew endured for 82 years.
After spotting this headstone and its cryptic epitaph on multiple occasions at Marietta National Cemetery, we decided to pursue the story and its mysteries.

Walking in Section A near the Greek Revival style rostrum during one of our first visits to the cemetery, we found a large headstone listing the names of five Army fliers. Under the names, ranks, birth dates and birth places of the fliers, an inscription reveals, “Died in plane crash WWII April 29 1942.”  At the time, we were writing a post about the group memorials at the cemetery, but we didn’t include this one.

On a return visit, working on a post about decorated veterans and notable figures, we were seeking the Section A burial locations of Lt. Col. Wilford Phelps and Col. Blake Van Leer. We spotted the fliers’ headstone again. Once more, we were intrigued, but it didn’t work with the focus of our article.

As this Memorial Day approached, we remembered that mysterious headstone with its cryptic inscription. Now seemed the perfect opportunity to honor the memories of the fliers by researching and telling their story. But as we explored the story and the circumstance of their deaths, we’re ended up left with a few mysteries that we’re still unable to explain.

The Importance of Air Power

Recruiting posters for US Army fliers, used in Crash Secrets article
After the attack on Pearl Harbor, the US aggressively recruited and trained fliers for its small air force. Crews were trained hastily at new and expanded air fields throughout the US.

In the early days of World War II, the US rushed desperately to arm itself for a multi-front war. And with advances in aviation since the end of World War 1, military strategy demanded a strong, expansive, and deadly air power capability that could strike almost anywhere, anytime.

That reality exploded on the US with the surprise attack on Pearl Harbor, as the Japanese used hundreds of carrier-based airplanes to cripple America’s Pacific Fleet. And the British also learned the necessity of a defensive air force as London faced deadly daily bombing raids by the German Lufwafte.

Thus, the US, sought thousands of new recruits to become members of its flying forces. Here in Marietta, a new bomber plant was started and finished quickly, producing Liberator bombers that would prove essential to the offensive bombing capabilities of the US and its allies.

Planes Everywhere

Across the country, airfields sprouted from cornfields, with runways pointing in virtually every direction. McDill Army Air Base near Tampa, Florida, became home to the four-engine Boeing B-17 heavy bombers and the twin-engine Martin B-26 Marauder medium bomber.  Combining the size, weight, engine power and quirk handling of these new war machines with inexperienced crews often led to disastrous consequences.

Vintage postcard of McDill, for our Crash Secrets article.
A vintage postcard depicts McDill Field, located at the edge of Tampa Bay near Tampa, FL. The base was home to crews learning to fly the B-26 Marauder and B-17 Flying Fortress.

In fact, according to published reports in military history journals, the B-26 Marauder proved especially problematic. The plane earned its nicknames “Widowmaker” and “Flying Coffin” from the numerous training accidents. And while the B-17 eventually proved to be incredibly durable and powerful war birds, the new pilots often struggled to control the huge beasts. Reports in local newspapers noted frequent training flight crashes. They even quoted a new Army Air Force colloquialism for the frequent accidents at the base located on a peninsula south of Tampa: “One a day in Tampa Bay.

The New Planes and Flyers Arrive

Each day brought new arrivals to McDill. On Feb. 6, 1942, a new Boeing B-17E, registration number 41-2566, was delivered to the airfield from the main Boeing assembly plant in Everett, Washington. (SOURCE: American Air Museum).

After marrying his college sweetheart on Feb. 20, 1942, in his native Oregon, Lt. Ernest W. Robertson and his new wife transferred to Tampa, FL. Robertson, a guard on the University of Oregon football team and its captain his senior year, had been assigned as a pilot to advanced bomber training at McDill. (SOURCE: Newspaper)

Robertson would join five others in a new bomber crew. Second Lieutenant Joseph S. Smith was a Texas native. Fellow officer Richard R. Carnevale joined the cockpit crew from Lockbourne, OH. Privates Marvin C. Brown and William C. Wimf hailed most recently from Michigan, though Wimf was an Arkansas native. The crew was rounded out by Private William C. Gearhart of Pennsylvania.

B-17 Bomber crew at McDill, for our Crash Secrets article
B-17 bomber crews included a cockpit crew, bombardier, and a gunnery crew. A typical crew was photographed here with their new plane in March 1942 at McDill Field near Tampa.

A similar situation existed at nearby Orlando Army Air Field, home to P-40 fighters. There, Second Lieut. Robert S. Boyce, of Chillicothe, OH, piloted one of the single-crew fighters that often were to escort and protect bombers on their deadly missions. An unmarried graduate of Washington and Lee University and the army’s advance flying school at Kelly field, TX,  he was transferred to Orlando Air Base from Key Field, Meridian, MS., on March 25, according to newspaper accounts.

Rigorous and Realistic Training

While the day-to-day routines of these specific B-17 and P-40 fliers are unknown, the training they received was well documented and consistently implemented. It’s likely that the crews had completed ground and simulator training before arriving at their Florida bases, an observation largely based on historical documents and archives from World War II training programs and manuals.

Once in Florida, the crews homed in on turning their assigned planes into precise weapons. They had graduated from simulators to real cockpits, often taking their first turns inside the powerful – and finicky – aircraft.

The bomber crews progressed from basic flying to more advanced skills such as formation flying, aerial gunnery, bombing runs, and navigational exercises. For the fighter pilots, training included aerobatics, dogfighting maneuvers, aerial gunnery, and tactical formations.

P-40 airplane in flights, for our Crash Secrets article.
In training flights, P-40 pilots practiced their flying skills, including aerial acrobatics, dogfights, and flying to rendezvous with B-17 armadas.

And, in anticipation of forming the combined bomber and fighter groups that would form aerial convoys to assigned target, the crews from different backgrounds, training and background would practice essential rendezvous and pursuit maneuvers.

A Fateful Event

As with many World War 2 domestic training crashes, details of whatever occurred on April 29, 1942, are sketchy. The emergency nature of war preparedness and need for military secrecy often combined to limit available information on catastrophic events. But here’s what we do know, according to accounts published in the Orlando Sentinal on April 30, 1942, and other subsequent press and official accounts.

“A multi-engined bomber from MacDill Field, Tampa, and a pursuit ship from Orlando Air Base yesterday collided in mid-air about nine miles west of Orlando and killed all occupants: four second lieutenants and three privates. Colonel Thomas S. Voss, commandant, Orlando Air Base, announced.

“Those listed as dead were Second Lieutenants Ernest W. Robertson, 25, Eugene, Ore., who leaves his widow, Virginia, at Tampa; Joseph S. Smith, Yoakum, Texas; and Richard R. Carnevale, Columbus, Ohio; three privates, M.C. Brown, 2136 Antoinette Avenue, Detroit, Mich.; L.A. Gerhart, Wernersville, Pa.; and (William) E. Wimf, Holland, Mich., all aboard the bomber; and Second Lieutenant Robert S. Boyce, 23, son of Mr. and Mrs. Howard Boyce of Chillicothe, Ohio, who piloted the pursuit plane.

“Colonel Voss immediately named a board of inquiry into the crash composed of Major W.E. Baker and Captains Griffin Davis and W.R. Yancey.

“The bomber, following the crash, plunged into the middle of an orange grove at the United States Department of Agriculture Sub-Tropical Fruit Research Station just off the Hiawassee Road.

“The pursuit plane crashed near Hoequist Field, two miles away, about six miles south of Orlando. Both planes burned.

Information card on B-17, for our crash secrets article
The crash was reported in local and regional newspapers. We found additional information on the planes involved by searching the Aviation Safety Network database.

The Gruesome Aftermath

The fact that the planes collided in midair, crashed and then burned led to gruesome realities for those who were flying and those who worked on the recovery. For those of us who have covered or worked at air crash scenes, the tragic outcome and horrible sights are among memories we hope to erase, but that never go away.

The remains of Lieut. Robert S. Boyce, 23, of Chillicothe, Ohio, were recovered individually. His remains were sent to his family in Ohio, and he was buried at Mount Moriah Cemetery, Withamsville, Clermont County, Ohio.

According to archived records of the Carey Hand Funeral Home in Orlando, FL, the fragmented remains of the bomber crew arrived there on April 29. The remains were cremated together on Sunday, May 3, then placed in one box as the funeral home awaited further instructions from the Army. The records indicate the Army paid $1,500 for one coffin, and all handling and arrangements for the deceased bomber crew were approved by Capt. Frank A. Perri of the Army Medical Corps.

Mystery at Marietta and Beyond

As we mentioned when we discovered the memorial to the bomber crew at Marietta National Cemetery, it includes a cryptic epitaph and the names of five Army fliers. The name of 2nd Lt. Richard R. Carnevale doesn’t appear on the Marietta Memorial. Instead, there is a headstone for Carnevale at Saint Joseph Cemetery in Lockbourne, OH.

But the funeral records indicate the bomber crew was cremated together and their remains placed in one coffin. So, who actually is buried at Marietta National Cemetery?

Crew headstone for our Crash Secrets article
The headstone for Lt. Richard R. Carnevale in an Ohio cemetery likely is a cenotaph, a memorial used when a person is missing or not recovered. Records indicate that Carnevale’s remains were cremated and buried with his crewmates.

Then, there’s confusion about the actual type of plane in which the bomber crew flew and died.

The newspaper accounts reference only that it was a “multi-engined bomber from McDill Field,” and doesn’t reference the specific type of plane. A listing in the database of the Aviation Safety Network indicates that a B-17E Flying Fortress with registration 41-2566 crashed on April 29, 1942, just west of Orlando. And records of the American Air Museum list a B-17 registration listing for 41-2566. But the heavy, long-range, deadly-armed B-17s usually flew with a crew of 10, required for manning all the guns around the airship.

The other primary multi-engined bomber assigned to McDill in 1942 was the B-26 Marauder. A lighter and shorter-range aircraft, it flew with a crew of six. Thus, with six crew members killed in the April 29 crash, which plane were they flying?

Likely Answers from Observations

After more research, we believe we’ve resolved – if not formerly solved – those two remaining mysteries.

Most likely, the remains of all six bomber crew members are interred at Marietta National Cemetery at plots A, 945-B-C. Since the funeral home recorded that all remains were placed in one box after cremation, it would have been impossible to bury the remains of 2nd Lt. Richard Carnevale in Ohio and five others at Marietta.

Instead, the memorial to Lt. Carnevale in Ohio likely is a cenotaph, or an empty grave and marker memorializing a missing or lost person. Carnevale’s Ohio grave marker appears to be standard issue for the time for US Army veterans, a benefit offered to families of veterans then and now through the US Department of Veteran’s Affairs. It’s also likely that, if the Carnevale family ordered a separate headstone for a memorial in Ohio, Department of Veteran’s Affairs regulations prohibited his listing on a second grave marker in Marietta.

As to the plane in which the bomber crew flew, we believe it mostly likely was a B-17E. We found two database references to the registration number and reports of a crash, but one was incomplete and the other included an incorrect date and the incorrect name of the fighter pilot. Still, all the other information matches the crash reports. We could find no specific references to a B-26 Marauder crash near Orlando. Instead, we think the 10-crew B-17E flew that day without some of its gunners. Whether gunners were assigned and left off the flight or – more likely – a full crew had not yet been assigned, we can’t ascertain fully.

Our Growing Series on Marietta National Cemetery

Since we live nearby, we frequently walk the pathways through Marietta National Cemetery. We’re often intrigued by what we find, and develop new articles. You can find all our posts about Marietta National Cemetery and the heroes resting in its hills by clicking here.

Marietta National Cemetery Memorial Ceremony

Empty Grave Commemorates Brave Medal of Honor Recipient

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“Valiant leadership, indomitable fighting spirit and resolute determination

At the highest point in Marietta National Cemetery flies an American flag and the POW/MIA flag commemorating those who never returned home from their service to our country.

And in the shadow of the flags, you’ll find a standard white headstone with the name of Marine Corporal Lee Hugh Phillips, recipient of our nation’s highest military honor and one of the men who never returned home from war.

Marine Corporal Lee Phillips received the Medal of Honor for his valiant leadership, indomitable fighting spirit and resolute determination in battle near Chosin Reservoir, Korea.

Phillips was awarded the Medal of Honor for his brave actions on November 4, 1950, in Korea. Phillips miraculously survived the battle for which he was awarded the Medal of Honor. But he was killed in action just three weeks later, on November 27, 1950, while fighting at the Chosin Reservoir, North Korea. His remains were not recovered. His Medal of Honor was presented to his mother at a Pentagon ceremony in March 1954.

Thus, Phillips, a native of Stockbridge, GA, is commemorated with a cenotaph — an empty grave and monument erected in honor of a person whose remains are lost — in Section MB, near the flag that flies over the hallowed grounds.

This cenotaph honoring — an empty memorial to a missing or lost person — honoring Lee Phillips is located near the flag pole at Marietta National Cemetery.

Each Medal of Honor award is accompanied by an official citation which describes the actions of the medal recipient. Phillips’ citation reads like a superhero movie script, except that it’s fact. Rather than describe it, here’s the citation as published by the National Medal of Honor Museum:

CITATION

For conspicuous gallantry and intrepidity at the risk of his life above and beyond the call of duty while serving as a squad leader of Company E, in action against enemy aggressor forces. Assuming the point position in the attack against a strongly defended and well-entrenched numerically superior enemy force occupying a vital hill position which had been unsuccessfully assaulted on 5 separate occasions by units of the Marine Corps and other friendly forces, Cpl. Phillips fearlessly led his men in a bayonet charge up the precipitous slope under a deadly hail of hostile mortar, small-arms, and machine gun fire.

Quickly rallying his squad when it was pinned down by a heavy and accurate mortar barrage, he continued to lead his men through the bombarded area and, although only 5 members were left in the casualty ridden unit, gained the military crest of the hill where he was immediately subjected to an enemy counterattack.

Although greatly outnumbered by an estimated enemy squad, Cpl. Phillips boldly engaged the hostile force with handgrenades and rifle fire and, exhorting his gallant group of marines to follow him, stormed forward to completely overwhelm the enemy.

With only 3 men now left in his squad, he proceeded to spearhead an assault on the last remaining strongpoint which was defended by 4 of the enemy on a rocky and almost inaccessible portion of the hill position.

Using 1 hand to climb up the extremely hazardous precipice, he hurled grenades with the other and, with 2 remaining comrades, succeeded in annihilating the pocket of resistance and in consolidating the position.

Immediately subjected to a sharp counterattack by an estimated enemy squad, he skillfully directed the fire of his men and employed his own weapon with deadly effectiveness to repulse the numerically superior hostile force.

“By his valiant leadership, indomitable fighting spirit and resolute determination in the face of heavy odds, Cpl. Phillips served to inspire all who observed him and was directly responsible for the destruction of the enemy stronghold. His great personal valor reflects the highest credit upon himself and enhances and sustains the finest traditions of the U.S. Naval Service.”

(Signed) Dwight D. Eisenhower, President of the United States

Additional Honors

In addition to receiving the Medal of Honor, Phillips was bestowed with Purple Heart, Combat Action Ribbon,Navy & Marine Corps Presidential Unit Citation with 2 Bronze Stars, National Defense Service Medal, Korean Service Medal with 2 Bronze Stars and the United Nations Service Medal.

Our Growing Series on Marietta National Cemetery

Since we live nearby, we frequently walk the pathways through Marietta National Cemetery. We’re often intrigued by what we find, and develop new articles. You can find all our posts about Marietta National Cemetery and the heroes resting in its hills by clicking here.

Marietta National Cemetery Memorial Ceremony
Click the photo above to find our full (and growing) series honoring the heroes buried in the hills at Marietta National Cemetery.

Medal of Honor Hero Hidden for 142 Years

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How an enterprising amateur historian “discovered” a fallen hero at Marietta National Cemetery.

Hero hidden at Marietta National Cemetery
A clerical error led to a misspelling on the original headstone of Medal of Honor recipient Dennis B. Buckley. Today, this US Army hero’s gravesite is marked with a Medal of Honor headstone.

Canadian-born Private Dennis B. Buckley died a Union hero in the Battle of Peach Tree Creek near Atlanta on July 20, 1864. For his actions, he was awarded the US Medal of Honor, today the nation’s highest military honor. Then he and his bravery were buried and lost for 142 years at Marietta National Cemetery. And all because of a clerical error.

Buried with approximately 10,000 other Civil War veterans at Marietta, Buckley’s original headstone was labeled, “Dennis B. Burkley.”  That’s likely because all the original service and cemetery records are handwritten in script. Add sloppy handwriting to the speed at which Civil War remains were reinterred at Marietta National beginning in 1866, and it’s easy to understand how the mistake was possible.

In 2006, amateur historian John DuBois of Caledonia, N.Y., dug deep intoCivil War records, tracing his grandfather’s 136th New York Infantry unit. According to a story in the Washington Post,  DuBois “found records that listed Buckley as a member and a grave number that matched the grave at the cemetery with Buckley’s name misspelled.” He notified the cemetery, which did its own research, confirmed the error, and also certified his Medal of Honor award.

With the mistake found and corrected, Marietta National Cemetery officials set out to properly memorialize Buckley’s final resting place with a Medal of Honor designation. The original headstone crumbled when officials attempted to move it.

Today, a brilliant white marble headstone with gold lettering at Marietta National plot 59-G-17-1 memorializes Buckley’s final resting place and brave achievements. Engraving includes his status as a prisoner of war, and as Medal of Honor recipient killed in action.

Buckley’s 136th Infantry fought with General William Sherman’s Army during the Atlanta Campaign. Buckley was killed in action at Peachtree Creek.

Buckley died July 20, 1864, at the Battle of Peach Tree Creek, part of General William T. Sherman’s March to Atlanta. His 136th New York Infantry Division was attacked repeatedly that day by the 20th Division of General John B. Hood. During one of those assaults, Buckley charged the Confederate line formed by the 31st Mississippi. Knocking down the unit’s flag-bearer with the butt of his rifle, Buckley seized the flag, then waved it. His celebration was short-lived, as a bullet ricocheted off the flag’s mast, striking Buckley in the head and killing him.

Earlier in the war, Buckley had been captured and held as a POW by Confederate soldiers during a skirmish raid on January 11, 1863, at Bank’s Ford, VA. Following a Civil War parole procedure, Buckley was released back to the Union Army, with a timed promise not to take up arms.  Records show he was “employed as a nurse” at the US Army General Hospital in Annapolis, MD, on June 1, 1863.

One year later, on May 31, 1864, Buckley returned to the 136th New York, and was listed for active duty. During June and July, his unit fought in Battle of Pine Hill (June 11-14), Battle of Lost Mountain (June 15-17), Battle of Gilgal or Golgotha Church (June 15), Battle of Muddy Creek (June 17), Battle of Noyes’ Creek (June 19), Battle of Kolb’s Farm (June 22), Assault on Kennesaw Mountain (June 27), Battle of Ruff’s Station/Smyrna Camp Ground (July 4),Battles along the Chattahoochee River (July 6-17) and the Battle of Peachtree Creek — where Buckley met his demise.

Our Growing Series on Marietta National Cemetery

Since we live nearby, we frequently walk the pathways through Marietta National Cemetery. We’re often intrigued by what we find, and develop new articles. You can find all our posts about Marietta National Cemetery and the heroes resting in its hills by clicking here.

Marietta National Cemetery Memorial Ceremony
See our full (and growing) series about the heroes resting in the hills at Marietta National Cemetery.

Heroic Nurse Sacrificed Her Life for Wounded Soldiers

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Though she likely never served in the US military, Emma Stephenson was laid to rest at Marietta National Cemetery, a symbol of thanks and in commemoration of the comfort she provided to injured and dying soldiers.

Little is known about how the formerly enslaved woman came to serve as a heroic nurse in a Union Army hospital near Marietta, GA. And like countless enslaved persons, even less is known about her birth, early years and her path to becoming a free woman of color. But what we can deduce from stories like hers and learn from the few facts available is that Emma Stephenson definitely earned her final resting place in a US national cemetery among those for whom she cared.

More than 3,000 US Army soldiers were killed, wounded or missing after the Battle of Kennesaw Mountain. The Confederate Army suffered approximately 1,000 casualties.

Conflicting Records

Conflicting accounts indicate that Stephenson likely was born into slavery in either Kentucky or Tennessee. She likely was freed as a result of Civil War actions, when local occupation by Union troops resulted in the freeing of enslaved workers from the estates of their Southern masters.

A National Park Service biography indicates that she voluntarily served as a nurse with the U.S. 17th Army Corps, part of General William T. Sherman’s Army of the Cumberland which fought throughout the South. The NPS biography also indicates she may have been born and enslaved originally in Kentucky.

Other accounts suggest she was born and enslaved in Tennessee, then volunteered as a nurse when freed, accompanying the 44th US Colored Infantry as part of Sherman’s forces. Civil War Union Army records and battlefield accounts from the NPS and other sources indicate that the 44th US Colored Infantry participated in Sherman’s Atlanta Campaign and March to the Sea.

“We have a slave woman who cares for us on this floor. She has kindness and treats us with tender care.”

A film shown at Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park recalls Stephenson’s recorded service as a nurse for the Union Army. A PBS miniseries, Civil War: Untold Story also includes her story.

Battle of Kennesaw Mountain

At the center of Emma Stephenson’s known story sits the Battle of Kennesaw Mountain, which took place in June 1864. After several frontal attacks by the Union Army on entrenched Confederate positions, the Confederate Army withdrew to the Southern bank of the Chattahoochee River.

With more than 3,000 Union soldiers dead, wounded or missing, the Union Army established a hospital at the Masonic Lodge in Marietta for the Union wounded. It’s here that Emma Stephenson’s service was recorded. And it’s also here where she would die, her life taken by a camp and hospital disease outbreak less than one month after the Battle of Kennesaw Mountain.

Civil War hospital conditions were horrible, often set up in hotels, homes, commercial buildings, homes or battlefield tents.

Letters of Union soldiers to their families back home provide primary sources about Emma Stephenson’s service in the hospital. Those letters often refer to her as the “slave nurse,” although she was a free woman. Often according to journals of the time, the hospital nurses wrote the letters on behalf of the injured soldiers. The family of Asa Soper, an injured soldier from the 30th Illinois, received one of those letters.

His letters states: “”Mother, I take my pen in hand to write you a few lines. I hope you are well. I am in a building and dry. The few nurses here work all day and night. We have a slave woman who cares for us on this floor. She has kindness and treats us with tender care. But my only hope is to come home to you.”

Famed Civil War photographer Matthew Brady captured this image of wounded soldiers being transported from a battlefield.

Nursing in the Civil War wasn’t the medical profession we know today. Most nurses came to the role with no medical training. Instead, they offered traditional caregiving roles that deemed appropriate extensions of their domestic duties at home.  But the scale of the war and number of injuries eventually resulted in nurses providing more medical support — usually out of necessity and often over the objection of doctors. Though they didn’t assist in surgery, nurses witnessed and treated graphic wounds and amputations that were emotionally draining. Letters and articles of the time show that the work was both physically and mentally taxing, often requiring long hours in overwhelmed facilities.

Providing Care

And the hospital conditions were horrible. Often using buildings that had survived or were damaged by battles and skirmishes, hospitals occupied hotels, commercial buildings and even homes. According to the National Museum of Civil War Medicine, the physical arrangements were chaotic.

Makeshift beds—often just straw or blankets on the floor—were packed closely together to accommodate the wounded soldiers. Surgeons worked at rudimentary operating tables, frequently simple wooden planks set on barrels or crates. Sanitation posed a significant issue; blood-soaked bandages, amputated limbs, and other medical waste often littered the ground nearby, contributing to a pervasive stench and the spread of infections. The air was thick with the smell of sweat, blood, and antiseptics like chloroform and ether, mixed with the nauseating odor of gangrene and other infections. Patients groaned and screamed in pain as surgeons performed amputations and other procedures, often without adequate anesthesia.

Rows of wounded men with missing limbs or severe injuries awaited surgery or suffered in agony following procedures. The constant activity of doctors, nurses, and orderlies rushing between patients added to the sense of urgency and despair.

This pencil drawing was used to illustrate the care which wounded soldiers received during the Civil War. But reality was grimly different.

Thus, without medical training and ill-equipped for the widening scope of their roles, Civil War nurses evolved in their roles or left “their soldiers” behind. Emma Stephenson stuck to her commitment, providing care and comfort.

A Hero’s Reward

After her death in the Union camp on July 16, 1864, from an unknown disease, Stephenson was buried at the Army Corps Hospital. With Marietta National Cemetery established in 1866 as the final resting place for US Army soldiers, Emma Stephenson’s remains were reinterred there. Having earned a spot in the cemetery for her care and service, Stephenson lies among those for who she gave her life.

Emma Stephenson is buried at Section F, Plot 4841, in Marietta National Cemetery. Also buried in that section are identified members of the US Colored Infantry, as well as unknown members of the unit.

Heroic Nurse Civil War Headstone
Emma Stephenson’s final resting place is in Section F of Marietta National Cemetery. Also buried here are more than 200 known and unknown members of the United States Colored Infantry.

Our Growing Series on Marietta National Cemetery

Since we live nearby, we frequently walk the pathways through Marietta National Cemetery. We’re often intrigued by what we find, and develop new articles. You can find all our posts about Marietta National Cemetery and the heroes resting in its hills by clicking here.

Marietta National Cemetery Memorial Ceremony
Click the image above to find our complete (and growing) series about the heroes resting in the hills at Marietta National Cemetery.

Classified: GA Wrestler’s Top Secret Mission Was To Train Spies

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Frank Simmons Leavitt, AKA, Man Mountain Dean, was an Army Veteran, professional wrestler, professional football player, movie star, policeman and known friend of Chicago mobster Al Capone. But unbeknownst until top secret records were declassified, Leavitt also trained immigrant Europeans to spy in World War II. With his training in close quarters and hand-to-hand combat, the American spies were sent behind enemy lines with a license, and training, to kill.

When reading the story of Frank Simmons Leavitt, it’s nearly impossible not to be confused by the plot twists in his life’s story line.

Let’s just start with the names. Born in New York as Frank Simmons Leavitt, he was best known by his final wrestling moniker, Man Mountain Dean. But before that tag stuck, he also wrestled under the names Hell’s Kitchen Hillbilly, Soldier Leavitt and Stone Mountain.

By way of life experience, Leavitt twice joined the US Army. He traveled the world as a professional wrestler. He served as a police office in Florida then was kicked off the force for his friendship with Chicago mobster and frequent Florida visitor Al Capone. While an officer, he stopped a young woman on a traffic violation, later married her, and she became both his business manager and occasional fight accomplice. He once said he attended five colleges to play football and never attended a single class. He had a brief stint in the young National Football League.

Fake It to Make It

Before his wrestling days, Man Mountain Dean — then using his real name of Frank Leavitt — paid a New York street bum to impersonate his father so he could join the US Army.

As an underaged youngster, Leavitt reportedly paid a New York street bum to impersonate his father so he could join the US Army on the eve of World War 1. He went on to be stationed in Texas, then fought with the US Army in France under General John Pershing.

After the war, those colorful chapters of his life that included football, police work, mobsters, professional wrestling, acting and top-secret service began playing out.

In 1921, he played football for the New York Brickley Giants in what would later become the NFL. In one game, he faced off against the legendary Jim Thorpe.

Later, with his enormous size – he was 5-11, and listed at 310 pounds – Leavitt tried his hand at professional wrestling, He reportedly loved the blend of athletics, theater and crowd interaction. Some of that may have been inherited from his father, who was a New York theater stage manager for the legendary Broadway producer George M. Cohan.

The Cop and Capone

After a fledgling start and laboring under a variety of identities, his schtick didn’t work and gigs dried up. So, he moved to Miami and joined the police force. That’s where he met his future wife, Dorris Dean, literally by accident when she bumped him with her car.

Shortly after, he was fired from the police force for “conduct unbecoming an officer” after he admitted making visits to the Miami home of frequent-Florida visitor and well-known Chicago mobster, Al Capone.

Newly married and jobless, the couple moved to Dorris’ home of Norcross, GA. Eventually the lure of wrestling brought him back to the ring, this time with a new manager and new name: Man Mountain Dean. Dorris encouraged the new name, concerned that his real last name – Leavitt – might sound “too Jewish” if he wrestled in Germany.

Dorris turned out to be more than a supportive wrestling wife. She also served as his business manager and booking agent. And, as described in the Tallahassee Democrat: “When opponents get too rough, she goes into the ring herself with chair, or water bucket, or whatever impromptu weapon comes handy.”

World Wide Fame

In his second try at professional wrestling, Leavitt gained world wide fame and fortune at a top draw on the circuit. For a comparison today, think Hulk Hogan, Ric Flair and The Undertaker.

This time, Leavitt’s wrestling career as Man Mountain Dean took off. He became an international figure, traveling the country and world as a top-billed draw.  He was immensely popular on the wrestling circuit (For a modern comparison, think Hulk Hogan, Ric Flair and The Undertaker).

He was getting rich, too. Mountain Man Dean commanded up to $1,500 for each appearance, which was higher than the average income in the US at that time in the 1930s. By the time his wrestling career ended due to a broken leg inflicted by a bitter and revenge-minded rival, Man Mountain Dean had appeared in nearly 7,000 matches.

Setting the future stage for wrestling stars like Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson and John Cena, he parlayed his wrestling fame into an acting career. From 1933 to 1938, he appeared in seven movies, then concluded his acting career in 1949 in the original “Mighty Joe Young.”  

(To get a sense of Man Mountain’s acting and wrestling skills, check out this movie clip from the 1938 film, The Gladiator. Or, to see him in a “real” wrestling match, watch this YouTube video of a converted 16mm film from the 1935 International Wrestling Championships in Los Angeles.)

Home Again to Georgia

With his wrestling and acting careers mostly behind him due to that leg injury, the Leavitts returned to their Georgia home. In Norcross, Leavitt was an international man of leisure, literally living large. He liked performing feats of strength and stunts (like lifting cars), often driven by bets and dares from town folk. He ran for the state legislature and won, then resigned. He studied journalism. Plus, he refereed wrestling matches.

While on the road and back in Georgia, Leavitt loved to perform stunts on a dare or a bet. One of his favorites was lifting a car, this one from a stop in Los Angeles.

That is, until the Japanese attacked Pear Harbor on Dec. 7, 1941. Leavitt reportedly told a friend, “I know what I need to do,” then re-enlisted in the Army. Over 50 and with a body worn from football, wrestling and life, the Army didn’t quite know what to do with their newest mountain of a recruit. Then came an inspired and novel idea.

Leavitt was assigned to a former mountain retreat and resort, hidden in the Maryland countryside. It had been converted to a top-secret training camp. Today, a portion of that decommissioned camp is the presidential retreat, Camp David.

Spies and A Secret Mission

But in 1943, it was known as Camp Ritchie. The camp was secluded, and everything that happened there was top-secret and remained that way well into the 1950s, 60s and beyond. Thus, if you were to read the many well-documented accounts of Frank Leavitt’s life or his obituary from 1959, you would find no mention of his assignment or role there at Camp Ritchie. But based on declassification of some documents, the following is a summary. Some of this is documented in the book, Immigrant Soldier, by K. Lang-Slattery.

Recognizing the need for translators and culture experts, the US Army recruited recent European immigrants from Germany and other Axis countries to serve in a special unit assigned to Camp Ritchie.  Many were German-born Jews who had fled Hitler’s terror. Most were well-educated, and reported for duty equipped with their musical instruments and books in addition to their Army-issued gear. Consistent with Europeans of the age, the recruits were slight of build, with an average height of five feet, four inches.

Eventually, many of the Immigrant Soldiers would be deployed not as translators working safely in offices front lines. Rather, they were developed into spies assigned to penetrate deep into their original Axis-controlled countries. With their local knowledge, average builds and American training, they were detailed to gather critical intelligence, occasionally perform commando tasks, and protect themselves – and their secrets – if discovered. They needed training in spy craft and self-defense, plus the kind of close quarters, hand-to-hand combat which might be required to carry out stealthy missions.

While at Camp Ritchie, Man Mountain Dean, left, with his trademark beard shaved per US Army regulations, used his acting chops to portray Nazis and good guys in Department of Defense propaganda films.

“The most important part of the training was that they learned to do interrogation of civilians and prisoners of war,” wrote David Frey, a history professor at West Point. “But they also did terrain analysis . . . photo analysis and aerial reconnaissance analysis. They did translation. They did night operations. They did counterintelligence.”

Despite the top-secret status and black outs on news, a rumor spread through Camp Ritchie: A famous American wrestler and celebrity would be coming to camp to teach the recruits hand-to-hand combat. And one day, a mountain of a man was spotted at camp, trying to jam himself into a phone booth.

Making an Entrance

Frank Simmons Leavitt, aka, Man Mountain Dean, had arrived at Camp Ritchie. With a gregarious personality borne of the theater and wrestling circuit, the Man Mountain was a force of nature in camp. Like he had done at home in Norcross, he welcomed challenges about his strength and skills, often putting on power and tactical demonstration on a bet or a whim. He regaled the European recruits with his wrestling adventures throughout Europe in locations that were familiar to them. He taught them American slang. And he put on what were described as “heroic eating demonstrations” worthy of his huge frame.

Among Man Mountain Dean’s activities at Camp Ritchie: “Heroic eating demonstrations.”

The Immigrant Soldiers and Americans stationed at Camp Ritchie were infatuated with Man Mountain Dean. And they quickly learned the range of his skills. Lang-Slattery wrote in her book that everyone “soon got over their awe of the huge and famous instructor. From him, they learned how to fight the enemy, individual against individual.”

License to Kill

With knowledge gained from wrestling and life – and some with untraceable origins – Leavitt was the camp’s specialist in hand-to-hand combat. Since the small Europeans didn’t have the Man Mountain’s size, it’s clear that his focus was on the use of close-in and intimate fighting techniques.

Lang-Slattery related the experience of Camp Ritchie graduate Gerd Grombacher. He credited Leavitt with teaching him how to kill an enemy at close quarters with a stiletto knife — “and how to make it so clean that it wouldn’t even hurt.”

Leavitt remained at Camp Ritchie through the end of the war. The recruits were shipped to Europe, and are credited with gaining an enormous quantity and high quality of critical intelligence, essential to the Allied battle plans and victory.

After the war ended, Leavitt returned to Norcross and the family farm. On May 29, 1953, Leavitt died of a heart attack while listening to a baseball game at his home.

Frank Simmons Leavitt is buried at Marietta National Cemetery in Section J, Site 9672-D.

Additional Memorial Day Tributes

Georgia’s Hero Football Coach: From Gridiron to Battlefields

Remembering Fallen Heroes at Marietta National Cemetery

Georgia Football Coach’s Greatest Battle Fought in World War 1

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One of Georgia’s most successful football coaches was a field general on the gridiron, nearly doubling the team’s all-time victories and coaching the school’s first All-American. And as a Captain in the US Army on the French battlefields of World War 1, he was awarded the country’s second highest miliary honor for bravery and leadership.

(In the 1910 team photo above, Cunningham is in the first row to the far right, wearing a sweater with a large V.)

The rolling hills of Marietta National Cemetery are the final resting place of more than 15,000 American soldiers and their family members. Each headstone hides stories of how brave men and women served to protect our freedoms. And some made the ultimate sacrifice in their service. As Memorial Day approaches, we’ll be sharing stories of these heroes in the Marietta hills.

Ask any Bulldog fan to name the top coaches to lead the University of Georgia football team, and three names come rapid fire: Kirby Smart, Vince Dooley and Mark Richt. And indeed, those three coaches won the most games and have the highest winning percentages during their coaching tenures.

But if you’re looking for a former Georgia head coach who was a football field general and a decorated hero on the battlefields during war, that distinction goes to Colonel William A. Cunningham. He coached the Bulldogs for eight seasons over a 10 year span between 1910 and 1919. During his tenure, Cunningham’s Bulldogs won 43 games, nearly doubling the total wins UGA had achieved in its first 18 seasons. And his all-time winning percentage of 68% puts him in fifth place among Georgia coaches who coached at least 10 games – and only one place behind the legendary Vince Dooley.

William Cunningham was hired as Georgia’s football coach after his visiting Gordon Military Institute baseball team beat the Bulldogs 11-0. Georgia athletic director Steadman Sanford offered Cunningham a $1,350 contract, and the deal was sealed.

Cunningham was hired by Georgia Athletic Director Steadman Sanford after Sanford watched Cunningham coach his Gordon Military Institute baseball team to an 11-0 victory on a visit to UGA. Published reports indicate that after a brief conversation, Sanford offered Cunningham a $1,350 contract on the spot.

Cunningham recruited one of his GMI baseball players to join him at Georgia. That baseball player, Bob McWhorter, became Georgia’s first football All-American in 1913.

The Atlanta Georgian and News Monday newspaper described Georgia’s 1912 offensive attack as “bush league,” and noted that coach William Cunningham “needs some assistants in Athens.” Despite the negative editorializing, Georgia won this game and went 6-1-1 in the season. George McWhorter, shown at the right running the ball, had a stellar year. In 1913, he was named Georgia’s first All-American.

College football then wasn’t the multi-million dollar, full-time enterprise it is today. So when he wasn’t coaching UGA football, Cunningham attended Georgia’s law school and served as faculty advisor to the Delta Chapter of the Sigma Chi fraternity.

Oh, and as if that wasn’t enough, Cunningham served as Georgia’s head basketball coach during the 1910–1911 season and again from 1916–1917, compiling a 62% winning percentage.

Under Cunningham, Georgia’s football team were top-rated in the region. In his eight seasons as head coach, Cunningham had seven winning campaigns. His 68% winning percentage puts him in fifth place among coaches who completed at least at least ten games — one spot behind the legendary Vince Dooley.

According to published accounts, Cunningham’s Bulldogs were fierce competitors and among the top teams in the region. But compared to the determination and bravery of their coach, the Bulldogs were mere pups playing together on a peaceful field.

In 1917 and 1918, University of Georgia and many other colleges suspended their sports programs as World War I required young men to serve their countries on a foreign battlefield. Although he was over 30 years old and not subject to being drafted, Coach Cunningham joined the US Army with his football players as new recruits headed to France.

Cunningham served with 321st Machine-Gun Battalion, 82d Division, A.E.F., near Sommerance, France, participating in battles of the Meuse-Argonne offensive. Rain dampened the battlefields in early October. German bombs fell heavily on the US and Allied positions across the front as the Germans fought fiercely to stem the slowly advancing Allied offensive which had broken out of the trench war stalemate.

Georgia’s new Sanford Stadium was empty in 1917 and 1918, as many players and Coach William Cunningham were serving in the US Army during World War 1. Though he was over 30 years old and not a prime Army recruit, Cunningham volunteered for service.

On Oct. 12, 1918 – on a day when Cunningham likely would have been coaching his team on Georgia’s new Sanford Field – Captain Cunningham led his unit in an attack on the German lines. Painfully wounded in the face by shrapnel when his battalion was seriously engaged in battle, Cunningham continued leading his men through the heavy shell fire.

On a battlefield like this near Summerance, France, Georgia football coach lead his unit against German troops, advancing through a hail of machine gun fire and bombs despite a severe shrapnel injury to his face. Cunningham was awarded the Army Distinguished Service Cross, with the citation commending him for “leading his men with skill and inspiring them with courage.”

For his outstanding service, Cunningham was awarded the Army Distinguished Service Cross, the nation’s second highest military honor. The citation lauded Cunningham for his efforts “leading his men with skill and inspiring them with courage” despite his serious head wounds. He also was inducted posthumously into the 82nd Airborne Division Hall of Fame.

After the war, Cunningham returned to his coaching position at Georgia and led the Bulldogs on another winning campaign in the 1919 season. He left UGA after the 1919 season having compiled a final football record of 43–18–9.

Rejoining the US Army, Cunningham also served during World War 2. He ended his Army career with the rank of colonel. Cunningham later served as the professor of military studies at Clemson University from 1943 to 1946.

Colonel Cunningham is buried at Marietta National Cemetery at gravesite Q 181-C

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