For nearly 20 years, we drove Interstate 75 through Cincinnati, OH, and Covington, KY, often commenting on the numerous church steeples in this historically German and Catholic area. But we needed the Roadtrippers travel app to discover St. Mary’s Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption. We made a special half-day stop to explore this religious and architectural wonder.
Oddly, while living in Ohio, we made regular driving trips up and down I-75 to visit family. We often found ourselves time-pressed and family-stressed on those trips. Thus, making a stop just one hour after leaving home or when only one hour away from a return seemed senseless.
But after we moved to Florida, then Georgia, we had more time to explore stops along this road-now-less-traveled. Ending a leisurely combination business and vacation trip, we asked Roadtrippers for interesting stops on our route to Georgia. St. Mary’s popped up, just off the interstate in Covington, KY, and perfect for a late-morning visit.
Based on Two Famous European Cathedrals
St. Mary’s features classic Gothic architecture, with an interior based on St. Denis Basilica of Paris and a façade modeled after Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris. Planning for St. Mary’s began as early as 1855. Actual construction began in 1894 after construction plans and fundraising were sufficient for work to commence. Completion of the first phase occurred in 1901 and dedication of the church proceeded without the façade. Construction began again in 1908 on the exterior, featuring a 26-foot diameter rose stained glass window. Work ended on the exterior in 1910, but without the two 52-foot towers originally envisioned.
Today, the Basilica features one of the largest handmade stained glass windows in the world, according to the Cathedral Legacy Society. The 67 foot by 24 foot fixture occupies the North Transept. It depicts the Coronation of Mary after her Assumption. Created in Munich, Germany, craftsmen installed the window in 1911. A full restoration was completed 2001, according to published church history.
Inside the Soaring Church
Entering the Basilica from the west below the rose window, one of the church’s three pipe organs towers above. Walking forward, The Baptistry is laid into the floor, with an upper carved from one piece of Chiampa Pearla marble.
On our visit, one of the organists rehearsed overhead, filling the massive church with a mournful dirge, then lifting the pace and our spirits with a soaring hymn.
We walked up the main aisle, pausing to admire the stained glass windows and the massive arches above the huge columns that formed the nave. At the far side, the marble-tiled sanctuary rises from the main floor, featuring a carved wood pulpit and baldachin, plus a variety of marble. Above, the transept soars to 85 feet. Ahead, the marble altar sits before the rounded east apse, adorned by more stained glass. The wood-carved cathedra, or bishop’s chair, symbolizes the role of teacher and pastor of the church.
Other notable religious and architectural features include:
- Mosaic stations. Formed of tiny porcelain ceramic tiles and mother of pearl, the 14 stations portray Christ’s passion and death.
- Stained glass windows. In addition to the large stained glass window in the North Transept, the church features 82 stained glass windows portraying the life of Christ and honoring apostles, saints and church figures.
- Gargoyles and chimera. Along the ornate upper colonnade, 32 gargolyes help to divert rainwater away from the cathedral. Another 26 chimeras help to guard the church and community from evil spirits.
After roaming through the interior, we headed back outside to the courtyard, admiring the plantings, fountains, statuary and — of course — those gargoyles peeking at us from high above.
Our weekday visit lasted over two hours as we paused to reflect on the exquisite features. We easily could have spent more time exploring the vast interior and exterior surroundings. The church generally is open for visitation Monday-Friday, from 9 am to 3 pm, but may be closed without notice due to special liturgies.
