It’s hard to believe that once – and not so long ago — Central Florida was a sleepy backwater surrounded by orange groves, swamps and a natural landscape conducive to jungle-thick plant growth. But unless you’re a botanist or professional horticulturalist, chances are today you visit Central Florida for man-made wonders and encounters with cartoon animals that largely have displaced the plentiful fauna and robust flora that originally earned the state its name.
Whether you’re inspired by a desire for natural beauty or simply motivated by that empty feeling where your wallet once sat, it’s easy, inexpensive and convenient to enjoy a day with nature near the heart of the Orlando area. In fact, natural beauty blooms in Orlando’s year-round sunny light, with not a mouse, dolphin, or magic wand in sight. And to prolong your escape from the hustle and bustle around I-4, there’s a swan boat located nearby, almost next door.
Seeking respite from the touristy tyranny of the mouse and wizards, yet wanting to enjoy an active beautiful spring day, we remembered that our annual membership to the Atlanta Botanical Garden offered free reciprocal admissions to member gardens affiliated with the American Horticultural Society. A quick web search led us to Harry P. Leu Gardens, located in the shadows of the high-rises of today’s downtown Orlando.
It’s easy to love Leu, once you find it. When we visited, driving in from the South near theme park central required a winding trek through I-4 construction zones, veering sharply with little notice on to poorly-marked exits, and a series of Google Maps directed turns through downtown and nearby residential districts.
But once we arrived, we left all of that behind and immersed ourselves in the natural setting, casually exploring the 14 garden sections and attraction areas while literally taking time to smell the roses, camellias, magnolias and other blooming plants. Harry P. Leu Gardens is a walker’s paradise, with well-marked, wide walkways providing easy access for both the fully and differently-abled. In our two-plus hour visit, I recorded nearly 6,000 steps of walking (slightly under three miles) on my trusty Garmin Vivoactive HR. Complimentary wheelchairs are available (on a first-come, first served basis) for those who might find long walks a bit challenging, and there are plenty of opportunities for youngsters to roam and explore without getting into sensitive or off-limit areas. However, pets are not permitted, except for service animals.
The helpful team at Leu Gardens has a suggested garden tour route, and even different versions for those with time limitations. And the map provided to visitors has well-marked sections featuring huge numbers and garden descriptions. But we ignored all those – not on purpose, but because we were distracted by the 2,000 blooming camellias and scenic overlooks of Lake Rowena. Thus, referencing the map-numbered attractions, our path went something like, 1, 2, 14, 10, 14, 12, 7 . . . well, you get the point. We laughed and wandered and sniffed in the face of suggested way-finding.
By the time our 150-minute visit was over, we visited all the garden’s sections, even though our time was shortened slightly by dark clouds on the horizon which released large drops of water in copious quantities just as we reached our car, then stopped before we reached the end of the entry driveway.
Entering under the 200-year-old oak trees outside the garden house (No. 1 on the tour map!), we ventured into the tropical stream garden (No. 2!) and enjoyed the vivid colors of bromeliads and rain forest flora. Then we turned off the numbered route to the Lake Rowena overlook, the North Woods and one of multiple camelia sections, which comprise one of the largest camellia collections in the US. Next, we wandered into the palms and bamboo, both so jungle-thick and primal in appearance that we fully expected a small raptor might emerge at any moment, Jurrasic Park style. We continued to the South Woods, stopping for more camellias before reaching the White Garden, then circling the Arid Garden.
This path had taken us around the perimeter of the 50-acre garden, so we consulted our map and plotted a course to the garden’s heart – Mary Jane Leu’s rose garden. After the Leus purchased their retreat in the 1940s, they traveled the world collecting plants, a life-long avocation. Meanwhile, Mary Jane Leu began planting roses near the lake, and in 1944, the first roses at the current rose garden site were planted. Today, the rose garden features more than 200 different rose varieties and over 650 plants, all well-suited to the Central Florida climate.
After the rose garden, we explored the color garden, herb garden, the vegetable garden, the demonstration garden and chased butterflies – with our camera’s photo lens only! – in the butterfly garden. And though we live in the Northwest Georgia hills where growing conditions are very different, we stopped to read the helpful growing tips throughout each of these areas.
All these garden areas are adjacent to the Leu House, now a museum and indefinitely closed since 2017 following heavy damage in Hurricane Irma. Prior to the hurricane, the Leu House had been restored and furnished to the 1940s time period. Closing your eyes and hoping a siren didn’t pierce the garden’s serenity, you could only imagine how splendid and tranquil living here would have been in those long-gone days before Walt Disney secretly purchased nearby swamp land and began the modern transformation.
Instead of waxing nostalgic and getting on a rant about the need to preserve more of Florida’s remaining natural beauty, I’ll simply say this: when in Orlando, visit Harry P. Leu Gardens. Even if you don’t have the benefit of free admission through the American Horticultural Society, a family visit is reasonably priced and highly enjoyable. And if you want, pack a lunch or bring in some food from a nearby restaurant as small bag lunches are allowed under the oak trees on the patio of the Garden House.
More “Old Florida”
If we’ve tweaked your botanical or historical geek with this post, you may enjoy other “Old Florida” travel and entertainment ideas:
- Mead Botanical Garden. Another 47-acres of natural Florida and landscaped beauty, Mead Botanical Garden is located across Lake Sue from Leu Gardens. It’s less than 10 minutes away by car.
- Lake Eola Swan Boats. Enjoy the scenery from the water with a swan boat rental. The City of Orlando rents the pedal-powered swan boats, perfect for a couples or family outing. You can frequently find Groupon offers for these rentals. Tourists and locals rave about the fun experience, and you can check out some of their comments on Trip Advisor.
- Classic Florida attractions. If you’re in a Jimmy Buffett nostalgic rage, just step right up and act your age, visiting some of these classic Florida attractions. Most are outside of Orlando. Gatorland in Kissimmee is nearest, and the mermaids of Weeki Wachi Springs are my favorites.
- Novels by Carl Hiaasen and Tim Dorsey. Both of these Florida writers came out of the newspaper business, Carl Hiaasen with the Miami Herald and Tim Dorsey with the Tampa Tribune. Both feature novels that describe parts of “Old Florida” with reverence and love, while telling whacked-out stories of about the kind of assorted lunatics who today make real-life news under the headlines “Florida Man.” Of course, given my journalism degree and newspaper background, I may just have a soft spot for journalists who’ve done well.
You May Also Enjoy
We love these “off the beaten path” attractions, for the experiences and the fun we have trying to find them. Here are a few of our favorites, and a tip on how to find them:
Free Di$ney Day $aved Hundred$. We found Leu Gardens because we were in the Disney doldrums. On a previous visit, when our physical batteries and wallets were empty, we used our creativity to entertain the grand kids without spending a bundle.
Mardi Gras and Moon Pies in Mobile. Though New Orleans may own the most recognized pre-Lenten celebration in the US, it actually originated about 150 miles east in the sleepy port town of Mobile, Alabama. If you’re cruising I-10, check out this fun stop in downtown Mobile.
Short Hikes, Tall Georgia Waterfalls. Because we often have the grand kids or elderly parents along, we’ve been on the lookout for the tallest Georgia waterfalls requiring short walks for enjoying their spectacular plunges.
Finding Free Fun on Road Trips. With more time, an insatiable hunger for discovery, and age-related bladder requirements, we’re traveling at slower speeds with more stops along the way. We use this app to help us find hidden treasures.
Our Newest Adventures. We’re adding new stuff more regularly these days, catching up with our posts after some extended travel and some family distractions. Find all our latest at our blog, including lobsters, Lincoln, lizard people, and more!
