Calling Baton Rouge

In Louisiana, politics is both art form and entertainment, seasoned with a generous helping of colorful figures, banana republic methods, and demagoguery.

With the divisive politics, angry rhetoric and political personalities in the US today, it seemed fitting during a recent Louisiana trip to take a brief political tour of the US in the 1930s by visiting downtown Baton Rouge and the government landmarks of the city.

Once and again a sleepy university and state capital town located on the Mississippi River, Baton Rouge found itself at the center of US populist movement in the 1930s thanks to Louisiana governor Huey Long.  As a candidate and governor, Long proposed expansive education and public works programs, all financed with borrowed money. His populist message propelled him to national attention, and after four years as governor, he was elected to the US Senate. Long originally supported President Franklin Roosevelt and his New Deal. Long’s support faded quickly, and by 1935, he had announced his candidacy for president, along with his “Share the Wealth” plan and defining motto, “Every Man a King.” A ruthless politician and fiery orator often propelled by personal experiences, Long was a fierce opponent to large companies, often calling for them to be broken apart to limit their influence and power. Among his favorite corporate targets were Standard Oil Company (the predecessor to Exxon), and US business titans JD Rockefeller and JP Morgan.

Our landmark tour focused on the heart of 1930s Baton Rouge:  The Old State Capital, the Mississippi River and old Baton Rouge Train Station, historic Third Street, and the New State Capital Building.

The “Old” State Capitol

Described in original design papers by architect James Daikin as ““Castellated Gothic,” the building intentionally was designed not to resemble the Greek and Roman architectural style of most large public works projects of the time.  Twin octagonal towers tower over the front of the structure and face the Mississippi River, and the entire roof line is notched in the style of European medieval castles.

Mark Twain once referred to the building as “a little sham castle” on the Mississippi River, and wished in his book, Life on the Mississippi, that authorities would have “let dynamite finish what a charitable fire began.”

Regardless, the Old State Capitol – often called the Castle on the River — was restored after the Civil War and most recently in the 1990s, and today stands overlooking the Mississippi River from its high bluff in Baton Rouge.

Inside, a towering stained-glass vault dominates the atrium, sending multi-colored light down to the floors below and highlighting the cast iron spiral staircase at the center of the building. A single cast-iron support rises from floor to the ceiling, supporting the dome structure.

Today, the building houses an impressive Museum of Political History, mostly focused on Huey Long’s rise to power in Louisiana and the national political scene. Growing up in Louisiana with French-speaking grandparents, I also enjoyed the temporary exhibit focused on the work of CODOFIL (Council on Development of French In Louisiana) to expand French-speaking in the state. Most notable was a single student’s desk, facing a blackboard, on which was written 10+ times, “I will not speak French in school.” It was a vivid reminder that my parents and grandparents often spoke French among their generation (especially when they wanted to keep things from us) but refused to teach our generation any Cajun French.

In the extensive exhibit dedicated to Huey Long, we listened to his famous “barbeque speech,” where he uses the analogy of an outdoor barbeque to ferociously attack John Rockefeller and JP Morgan, alleging that they take an unfair share of wealth while poor people remain hungry and unfed. To get a sense of Long’s populist appeal, check out this YouTube video clip of that speech.

Unfortunately, the public is no longer allowed to climb to the top of the front towers overlooking the Mississippi River and downtown Baton Rouge.  When attending LSU in the late 1970s, I climbed the stairs to the towers and spent an afternoon on the rooftop taking photos for my photojournalism class.

We spent just over an hour at this site, and enjoyed the free audio tour available at the Welcome Desk. Upon leaving, we inspected the cast iron fence which surrounds the grounds.

The “New” State Capitol

Where other than Louisiana, with its heavily Euro-and-African centric colonial history, would a building constructed in the 1930s still be labelled as the “new” anything? But ask any local about the location or history of the State Capitol building, and I guarantee the word “new” will be used multiple times in the answer.

To get the votes needed, Long strategically placed recalcitrant legislators directly under the plethora of leaks in the old capitol’s roof — the Louisiana political version of waterboarding.

During his infrastructure expansion and building spree as governor, Huey Long lobbied the State Legislature to replace the Castle with a new 450-foot skyscraper. Legend has it that after multiple failed attempts, Long gained approval by calling for a vote during a heavy thunderstorm. He strategically placed recalcitrant legislators directly under the plethora of leaks in the old capitol’s roof, finally earning their support by use of this primitive form of waterboarding.

Oddly, this towering achievement also became the ultimate location of Long’s demise.  Long was shot in the hallway behind the main elevators on Sept. 8, 1935, and died two days later from his wounds. Consistent with Louisiana’s banana republic politics, mystery and controversy linger today over the event. The accounts of the day attributed the assassination to a young Baton Rouge doctor. However, there always was speculation that Long actually was shot by his body guards – either accidentally in the hail of gunfire that killed the doctor or intentionally by a bodyguard in the confusion. The alleged assassins’ gun disappeared for many years, and more recent ballistics tests added to the controversy.

Long is buried on the State Capitol grounds, under a large statue that faces the Capitol Building and his home in North Louisiana.  That also means his back (and his backside) is facing the cities of Baton Rouge and New Orleans, which never were part of his political base.

The Louisiana State Capitol remains the tallest state capitol in the US, and includes an observation deck that provides a panoramic view of Baton Rouge and the surrounding countryside. Getting there requires an elevator transfer, with larger elevators serving all floors and a transfer stop at the 27^th floor. Then, a maximum of six adult visitors can squeeze into a single elevator that serves the observation deck.  We got a “hot tip” from the tour desk to head up quickly to beat a large group that was nearly finished with their guided tour.  We zipped to the top with no wait and spent 15 minutes gazing and taking pictures.  By the time we came back down, there was a 100-person line waiting to take the trip up.

While the distant views are expansive, most items of interest are easily viewed within a 10-mile radius.  To the West, at the foot of the Capitol, are the Pentagon Barracks, easily identified by their shape.  The Mississippi River, with its heavy seagoing ship and barge traffic, also is to the West, as are the farmland and industrial sites of West Baton Rouge Parish directly across the river.

To the South, Huey Long’s grave site and downtown Baton Rouge are nearby, while the Interstate 10 bridge and LSU are further in the distance.  To the North is the Exxon complex, the largest industrial facility in the area.

Back down on the main floor, we visited the Senate Chamber and the House Chamber.  The House was in session during our visit, so we sat for a few minutes to watch government in action.  Frankly, it’s unimpressive, mostly appears to be inaction, and genuinely fits that old cliché about not wanting to watch sausage being made.

Everything In-Between

Generally, there’s a free trolley that runs through downtown Baton Rouge and connects the Old and New Capitol Buildings.  We found it to be as elusive as the ghost which allegedly haunts the Old Capitol. So on a sunny and warm spring day, we walked the riverfront and historic Third Street.

Leaving the Old Capitol, we strolled toward the river, through Repentance Park and across the pedestrian bridge past the old downtown Baton Rouge train station. Located directly in front of the Old State Capital, the station was once a bustling center for lobbyist, politicians, business people and regular citizens.  Now, it’s home to the Louisiana Arts and Science Museum and Pennington Observatory.

The City of Baton Rouge and private organizations have transformed the riverfront area over the past 25+ years, creating an impressive riverfront park, walking area and tourist center. The USS Kidd Veteran’s Museum is located there, with the World War II destroyer floating above or resting on a unique mooring that allows you to see the below-waterline hull during low water periods.  A few steps downriver is the riverboat-based Belle of Baton Rouge Casino and its land-based hotel.

A riverfront dock sits between those, hosting visiting river cruises on their stops in Baton Rouge. The river-cruise paddle wheeler America was moored here overnight, and most of its guests had disembarked for day excursions into the city and surrounding plantation sites.

Before leaving the levee, we grabbed one of the wooden chairs and stretched out in the sun as the river and its boat traffic flowed by in near silence.

Walking historic Third Street, we stopped along the way to check out newer businesses and remember those that have faded into history.  When working as the editor of LSU’s alumni magazine in the 1980s, I often spoke to our 40-and-50-year alumni groups who remembered vividly the heyday of this old downtown area. In our alumni office and archives, we had lots of photos of the LSU band parading down Third Street on football game days and for other special events. But, if you don’t have that reference point, you’ll likely see Third Street for what it is today – a city’s feeble attempt to attract and keep retail and entertainment businesses in an area without enough potential customer traffic.

A Bit of Cajun Food Heaven

Nestled at the foot of Florida Street between Third Street and River Road is Poor Boy Lloyd’s Seafood Restaurant.  It’s an authentic Louisiana seafood “joint,” and you’ll know that immediately as the menu includes alligator, boudin, crabs, crawfish, gumbo, rabbit, shrimp and bread pudding. We settled in for a leisurely lunch that included a catfish poboy and an Italian meatball poboy.

Thanks to a serendipitous social media post, we connected with Ron Thibodeaux, author of Hell or High Water: How Cajun Fortitude Withstood Hurricanes Rita and Ike.

Thanks to a serendipitous social media post about our activities, we connected during lunch with my college friend Ron Thibodeaux, author of Hell or High Water: How Cajun Fortitude Withstood Hurricanes Rita and Ike.  I highly recommend Ron’s book, as it provides great insight into how the small, tight-knit Cajun communities of Southwest Louisiana stuck together during a series of devastating natural disasters.

OurTravelCafe Favorite Baton Rouge Foods

During our travels, we try to frequent local restaurants, groceries and markets that appeal to us.  We generally rely on our own experience and local recommendations, easy in Baton Rouge since we grew up, went to college, live and visit family here.  (When we don’t have those insights, we ask friends and fellow bloggers for tips and refer to internet review sites like TripAdvisor, Google Guides, Open Table and Yelp.)

Following are links to reviews we’ve posted about some of our favorite Baton Rouge-area eating stops:

BRQ, Jefferson Highway in South Baton Rouge. A newish chef-owned seafood and barbecue restaurant. Sounds odd, but just try it.

The Chimes, Highland Road near LSU.  We ate here recently, but I can’t find my review. I wouldn’t mention it if it wasn’t good.

Parrain’s Seafood House, Perkins Road near LSU; consistently rated as one of the cities’ best casual seafood restaurants.

Phil’s Oyster Bar and Seafood Restaurant, Perkins Road near LSU. A Baton Rouge institution revived by sons of the original owner. A little hard to find, and well-worth the hunt.

Poor Boy Lloyd’s, downtown on Florida Street, a local institution with authentic Cajun food. Love the poboys, and there’s lots more.

Pot and Paddle Jambalaya Kitchen, Denham Springs.  Jambalaya, pastalaya and gumbo are the features of the limited menu. Two locations currently, but looks to be regional chain-ready for expansion.

Rouse’s Markets.  We visited several. This Louisiana grocery store is a leader in the grocer-aunt trend of good fresh foods available for dine-in or take out at a grocery. We were impressed by the boiled local seafoods.

Rue Beignet, South Baton Rouge; New Orleans’-style doughnuts and café au lait.

Stormy Side-Story:  Sex in Louisiana Politics

I started here talking about the links between current day populism and Huey Long.  There’s another Louisiana political side-story that we can’t overlook in today’s “stormy” political weather.  Louisiana politicians are known for their scandalous relationships.  Huey Long’s brother and Louisiana governor Earl Long’s relationship with stripper Blaze Starr made headlines.  Later, the story became a movie entitled “Blaze,” starring Paul Newman as the governor and Lolita Davidovich as Blaze Starr. The movie is described on Amazon as the story of “A fiery, eccentric governor falls in love with an innocent stripper.”

In the 1970s, Cajun Edwin Edwards began his multi-term stints as governor, then later his term in prison for various misdeeds in elected office. His reputation (often self-proclaimed!) as a “ladies man” was part of his charm, and he once proudly held up a bumper sticker during a campaign rally which read, “Win One for the Zipper.” Edwards is now 90 years old and married to his third wife, who is 50 years his junior. In 2013, the happy couple were the focus of an eight-week television series on A&E Network, called The Governor’s Wife, ending with the birth of their child.

More recently, Louisiana Senator and shoe-in for governor, David Vitter, was caught up in the 2007 DC Madam case. His phone number appeared in the diary of DC Madam Deborah Jeane Palfrey, accused of running a high-profile Washington prostitution service. After the disclosure, Vitter won reelection to the Senate, but then lost the 2015 gubernatorial race to (gasp!) a Democrat! The Washington Post did an insightful story that speaks to how Louisianans think about politics, and how and why Vitter won reelection to the Senate but then lost the race for governor.

Your Favorite Louisiana Side-Trips?

We’d love to know what you like to do when visiting and exploring Louisiana. Please leave us a note in the comments section.