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Heroic Nurse Sacrificed Her Life for Wounded Soldiers

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Heroic Nurse Sacrificed Her Life for Wounded Soldiers

Though she likely never served in the US military, Emma Stephenson was laid to rest at Marietta National Cemetery, a symbol of thanks and in commemoration of the comfort she provided to injured and dying soldiers.

Little is known about how the formerly enslaved woman came to serve as a heroic nurse in a Union Army hospital near Marietta, GA. And like countless enslaved persons, even less is known about her birth, early years and her path to becoming a free woman of color. But what we can deduce from stories like hers and learn from the few facts available is that Emma Stephenson definitely earned her final resting place in a US national cemetery among those for whom she cared.

More than 3,000 US Army soldiers were killed, wounded or missing after the Battle of Kennesaw Mountain. The Confederate Army suffered approximately 1,000 casualties.

Conflicting Records

Conflicting accounts indicate that Stephenson likely was born into slavery in either Kentucky or Tennessee. She likely was freed as a result of Civil War actions, when local occupation by Union troops resulted in the freeing of enslaved workers from the estates of their Southern masters.

A National Park Service biography indicates that she voluntarily served as a nurse with the U.S. 17th Army Corps, part of General William T. Sherman’s Army of the Cumberland which fought throughout the South. The NPS biography also indicates she may have been born and enslaved originally in Kentucky.

Other accounts suggest she was born and enslaved in Tennessee, then volunteered as a nurse when freed, accompanying the 44th US Colored Infantry as part of Sherman’s forces. Civil War Union Army records and battlefield accounts from the NPS and other sources indicate that the 44th US Colored Infantry participated in Sherman’s Atlanta Campaign and March to the Sea.

“We have a slave woman who cares for us on this floor. She has kindness and treats us with tender care.”

A film shown at Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park recalls Stephenson’s recorded service as a nurse for the Union Army. A PBS miniseries, Civil War: Untold Story also includes her story.

Battle of Kennesaw Mountain

At the center of Emma Stephenson’s known story sits the Battle of Kennesaw Mountain, which took place in June 1864. After several frontal attacks by the Union Army on entrenched Confederate positions, the Confederate Army withdrew to the Southern bank of the Chattahoochee River.

With more than 3,000 Union soldiers dead, wounded or missing, the Union Army established a hospital at the Masonic Lodge in Marietta for the Union wounded. It’s here that Emma Stephenson’s service was recorded. And it’s also here where she would die, her life taken by a camp and hospital disease outbreak less than one month after the Battle of Kennesaw Mountain.

Civil War hospital conditions were horrible, often set up in hotels, homes, commercial buildings, homes or battlefield tents.

Letters of Union soldiers to their families back home provide primary sources about Emma Stephenson’s service in the hospital. Those letters often refer to her as the “slave nurse,” although she was a free woman. Often according to journals of the time, the hospital nurses wrote the letters on behalf of the injured soldiers. The family of Asa Soper, an injured soldier from the 30th Illinois, received one of those letters.

His letters states: “”Mother, I take my pen in hand to write you a few lines. I hope you are well. I am in a building and dry. The few nurses here work all day and night. We have a slave woman who cares for us on this floor. She has kindness and treats us with tender care. But my only hope is to come home to you.”

Famed Civil War photographer Matthew Brady captured this image of wounded soldiers being transported from a battlefield.

Nursing in the Civil War wasn’t the medical profession we know today. Most nurses came to the role with no medical training. Instead, they offered traditional caregiving roles that deemed appropriate extensions of their domestic duties at home.  But the scale of the war and number of injuries eventually resulted in nurses providing more medical support — usually out of necessity and often over the objection of doctors. Though they didn’t assist in surgery, nurses witnessed and treated graphic wounds and amputations that were emotionally draining. Letters and articles of the time show that the work was both physically and mentally taxing, often requiring long hours in overwhelmed facilities.

Providing Care

And the hospital conditions were horrible. Often using buildings that had survived or were damaged by battles and skirmishes, hospitals occupied hotels, commercial buildings and even homes. According to the National Museum of Civil War Medicine, the physical arrangements were chaotic.

Makeshift beds—often just straw or blankets on the floor—were packed closely together to accommodate the wounded soldiers. Surgeons worked at rudimentary operating tables, frequently simple wooden planks set on barrels or crates. Sanitation posed a significant issue; blood-soaked bandages, amputated limbs, and other medical waste often littered the ground nearby, contributing to a pervasive stench and the spread of infections. The air was thick with the smell of sweat, blood, and antiseptics like chloroform and ether, mixed with the nauseating odor of gangrene and other infections. Patients groaned and screamed in pain as surgeons performed amputations and other procedures, often without adequate anesthesia.

Rows of wounded men with missing limbs or severe injuries awaited surgery or suffered in agony following procedures. The constant activity of doctors, nurses, and orderlies rushing between patients added to the sense of urgency and despair.

This pencil drawing was used to illustrate the care which wounded soldiers received during the Civil War. But reality was grimly different.

Thus, without medical training and ill-equipped for the widening scope of their roles, Civil War nurses evolved in their roles or left “their soldiers” behind. Emma Stephenson stuck to her commitment, providing care and comfort.

A Hero’s Reward

After her death in the Union camp on July 16, 1864, from an unknown disease, Stephenson was buried at the Army Corps Hospital. With Marietta National Cemetery established in 1866 as the final resting place for US Army soldiers, Emma Stephenson’s remains were reinterred there. Having earned a spot in the cemetery for her care and service, Stephenson lies among those for who she gave her life.

Emma Stephenson is buried at Section F, Plot 4841, in Marietta National Cemetery. Also buried in that section are identified members of the US Colored Infantry, as well as unknown members of the unit.

Heroic Nurse Civil War Headstone
Emma Stephenson’s final resting place is in Section F of Marietta National Cemetery. Also buried here are more than 200 known and unknown members of the United States Colored Infantry.

Classified: GA Wrestler’s Top Secret Mission Was To Train Spies

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Classified: GA Wrestler’s Top Secret Mission Was To Train Spies

Frank Simmons Leavitt, AKA, Man Mountain Dean, was an Army Veteran, professional wrestler, professional football player, movie star, policeman and known friend of Chicago mobster Al Capone. But unbeknownst until top secret records were declassified, Leavitt also trained immigrant Europeans to spy in World War II. With his training in close quarters and hand-to-hand combat, the American spies were sent behind enemy lines with a license, and training, to kill.

When reading the story of Frank Simmons Leavitt, it’s nearly impossible not to be confused by the plot twists in his life’s story line.

Let’s just start with the names. Born in New York as Frank Simmons Leavitt, he was best known by his final wrestling moniker, Man Mountain Dean. But before that tag stuck, he also wrestled under the names Hell’s Kitchen Hillbilly, Soldier Leavitt and Stone Mountain.

By way of life experience, Leavitt twice joined the US Army. He traveled the world as a professional wrestler. He served as a police office in Florida then was kicked off the force for his friendship with Chicago mobster and frequent Florida visitor Al Capone. While an officer, he stopped a young woman on a traffic violation, later married her, and she became both his business manager and occasional fight accomplice. He once said he attended five colleges to play football and never attended a single class. He had a brief stint in the young National Football League.

Fake It to Make It

Before his wrestling days, Man Mountain Dean — then using his real name of Frank Leavitt — paid a New York street bum to impersonate his father so he could join the US Army.

As an underaged youngster, Leavitt reportedly paid a New York street bum to impersonate his father so he could join the US Army on the eve of World War 1. He went on to be stationed in Texas, then fought with the US Army in France under General John Pershing.

After the war, those colorful chapters of his life that included football, police work, mobsters, professional wrestling, acting and top-secret service began playing out.

In 1921, he played football for the New York Brickley Giants in what would later become the NFL. In one game, he faced off against the legendary Jim Thorpe.

Later, with his enormous size – he was 5-11, and listed at 310 pounds – Leavitt tried his hand at professional wrestling, He reportedly loved the blend of athletics, theater and crowd interaction. Some of that may have been inherited from his father, who was a New York theater stage manager for the legendary Broadway producer George M. Cohan.

The Cop and Capone

After a fledgling start and laboring under a variety of identities, his schtick didn’t work and gigs dried up. So, he moved to Miami and joined the police force. That’s where he met his future wife, Dorris Dean, literally by accident when she bumped him with her car.

Shortly after, he was fired from the police force for “conduct unbecoming an officer” after he admitted making visits to the Miami home of frequent-Florida visitor and well-known Chicago mobster, Al Capone.

Newly married and jobless, the couple moved to Dorris’ home of Norcross, GA. Eventually the lure of wrestling brought him back to the ring, this time with a new manager and new name: Man Mountain Dean. Dorris encouraged the new name, concerned that his real last name – Leavitt – might sound “too Jewish” if he wrestled in Germany.

Dorris turned out to be more than a supportive wrestling wife. She also served as his business manager and booking agent. And, as described in the Tallahassee Democrat: “When opponents get too rough, she goes into the ring herself with chair, or water bucket, or whatever impromptu weapon comes handy.”

World Wide Fame

In his second try at professional wrestling, Leavitt gained world wide fame and fortune at a top draw on the circuit. For a comparison today, think Hulk Hogan, Ric Flair and The Undertaker.

This time, Leavitt’s wrestling career as Man Mountain Dean took off. He became an international figure, traveling the country and world as a top-billed draw.  He was immensely popular on the wrestling circuit (For a modern comparison, think Hulk Hogan, Ric Flair and The Undertaker).

He was getting rich, too. Mountain Man Dean commanded up to $1,500 for each appearance, which was higher than the average income in the US at that time in the 1930s. By the time his wrestling career ended due to a broken leg inflicted by a bitter and revenge-minded rival, Man Mountain Dean had appeared in nearly 7,000 matches.

Setting the future stage for wrestling stars like Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson and John Cena, he parlayed his wrestling fame into an acting career. From 1933 to 1938, he appeared in seven movies, then concluded his acting career in 1949 in the original “Mighty Joe Young.”  

(To get a sense of Man Mountain’s acting and wrestling skills, check out this movie clip from the 1938 film, The Gladiator. Or, to see him in a “real” wrestling match, watch this YouTube video of a converted 16mm film from the 1935 International Wrestling Championships in Los Angeles.)

Home Again to Georgia

With his wrestling and acting careers mostly behind him due to that leg injury, the Leavitts returned to their Georgia home. In Norcross, Leavitt was an international man of leisure, literally living large. He liked performing feats of strength and stunts (like lifting cars), often driven by bets and dares from town folk. He ran for the state legislature and won, then resigned. He studied journalism. Plus, he refereed wrestling matches.

While on the road and back in Georgia, Leavitt loved to perform stunts on a dare or a bet. One of his favorites was lifting a car, this one from a stop in Los Angeles.

That is, until the Japanese attacked Pear Harbor on Dec. 7, 1941. Leavitt reportedly told a friend, “I know what I need to do,” then re-enlisted in the Army. Over 50 and with a body worn from football, wrestling and life, the Army didn’t quite know what to do with their newest mountain of a recruit. Then came an inspired and novel idea.

Leavitt was assigned to a former mountain retreat and resort, hidden in the Maryland countryside. It had been converted to a top-secret training camp. Today, a portion of that decommissioned camp is the presidential retreat, Camp David.

Spies and A Secret Mission

But in 1943, it was known as Camp Ritchie. The camp was secluded, and everything that happened there was top-secret and remained that way well into the 1950s, 60s and beyond. Thus, if you were to read the many well-documented accounts of Frank Leavitt’s life or his obituary from 1959, you would find no mention of his assignment or role there at Camp Ritchie. But based on declassification of some documents, the following is a summary. Some of this is documented in the book, Immigrant Soldier, by K. Lang-Slattery.

Recognizing the need for translators and culture experts, the US Army recruited recent European immigrants from Germany and other Axis countries to serve in a special unit assigned to Camp Ritchie.  Many were German-born Jews who had fled Hitler’s terror. Most were well-educated, and reported for duty equipped with their musical instruments and books in addition to their Army-issued gear. Consistent with Europeans of the age, the recruits were slight of build, with an average height of five feet, four inches.

Eventually, many of the Immigrant Soldiers would be deployed not as translators working safely in offices front lines. Rather, they were developed into spies assigned to penetrate deep into their original Axis-controlled countries. With their local knowledge, average builds and American training, they were detailed to gather critical intelligence, occasionally perform commando tasks, and protect themselves – and their secrets – if discovered. They needed training in spy craft and self-defense, plus the kind of close quarters, hand-to-hand combat which might be required to carry out stealthy missions.

While at Camp Ritchie, Man Mountain Dean, left, with his trademark beard shaved per US Army regulations, used his acting chops to portray Nazis and good guys in Department of Defense propaganda films.

“The most important part of the training was that they learned to do interrogation of civilians and prisoners of war,” wrote David Frey, a history professor at West Point. “But they also did terrain analysis . . . photo analysis and aerial reconnaissance analysis. They did translation. They did night operations. They did counterintelligence.”

Despite the top-secret status and black outs on news, a rumor spread through Camp Ritchie: A famous American wrestler and celebrity would be coming to camp to teach the recruits hand-to-hand combat. And one day, a mountain of a man was spotted at camp, trying to jam himself into a phone booth.

Making an Entrance

Frank Simmons Leavitt, aka, Man Mountain Dean, had arrived at Camp Ritchie. With a gregarious personality borne of the theater and wrestling circuit, the Man Mountain was a force of nature in camp. Like he had done at home in Norcross, he welcomed challenges about his strength and skills, often putting on power and tactical demonstration on a bet or a whim. He regaled the European recruits with his wrestling adventures throughout Europe in locations that were familiar to them. He taught them American slang. And he put on what were described as “heroic eating demonstrations” worthy of his huge frame.

Among Man Mountain Dean’s activities at Camp Ritchie: “Heroic eating demonstrations.”

The Immigrant Soldiers and Americans stationed at Camp Ritchie were infatuated with Man Mountain Dean. And they quickly learned the range of his skills. Lang-Slattery wrote in her book that everyone “soon got over their awe of the huge and famous instructor. From him, they learned how to fight the enemy, individual against individual.”

License to Kill

With knowledge gained from wrestling and life – and some with untraceable origins – Leavitt was the camp’s specialist in hand-to-hand combat. Since the small Europeans didn’t have the Man Mountain’s size, it’s clear that his focus was on the use of close-in and intimate fighting techniques.

Lang-Slattery related the experience of Camp Ritchie graduate Gerd Grombacher. He credited Leavitt with teaching him how to kill an enemy at close quarters with a stiletto knife — “and how to make it so clean that it wouldn’t even hurt.”

Leavitt remained at Camp Ritchie through the end of the war. The recruits were shipped to Europe, and are credited with gaining an enormous quantity and high quality of critical intelligence, essential to the Allied battle plans and victory.

After the war ended, Leavitt returned to Norcross and the family farm. On May 29, 1953, Leavitt died of a heart attack while listening to a baseball game at his home.

Frank Simmons Leavitt is buried at Marietta National Cemetery in Section J, Site 9672-D.

Additional Memorial Day Tributes

Georgia’s Hero Football Coach: From Gridiron to Battlefields

Remembering Fallen Heroes at Marietta National Cemetery

Georgia Football Coach’s Greatest Battle Fought in World War 1

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Georgia Football Coach’s Greatest Battle Fought in World War 1

One of Georgia’s most successful football coaches was a field general on the gridiron, nearly doubling the team’s all-time victories and coaching the school’s first All-American. And as a Captain in the US Army on the French battlefields of World War 1, he was awarded the country’s second highest miliary honor for bravery and leadership.

(In the 1910 team photo above, Cunningham is in the first row to the far right, wearing a sweater with a large V.)

The rolling hills of Marietta National Cemetery are the final resting place of more than 15,000 American soldiers and their family members. Each headstone hides stories of how brave men and women served to protect our freedoms. And some made the ultimate sacrifice in their service. As Memorial Day approaches, we’ll be sharing stories of these heroes in the Marietta hills.

Ask any Bulldog fan to name the top coaches to lead the University of Georgia football team, and three names come rapid fire: Kirby Smart, Vince Dooley and Mark Richt. And indeed, those three coaches won the most games and have the highest winning percentages during their coaching tenures.

But if you’re looking for a former Georgia head coach who was a football field general and a decorated hero on the battlefields during war, that distinction goes to Colonel William A. Cunningham. He coached the Bulldogs for eight seasons over a 10 year span between 1910 and 1919. During his tenure, Cunningham’s Bulldogs won 43 games, nearly doubling the total wins UGA had achieved in its first 18 seasons. And his all-time winning percentage of 68% puts him in fifth place among Georgia coaches who coached at least 10 games – and only one place behind the legendary Vince Dooley.

William Cunningham was hired as Georgia’s football coach after his visiting Gordon Military Institute baseball team beat the Bulldogs 11-0. Georgia athletic director Steadman Sanford offered Cunningham a $1,350 contract, and the deal was sealed.

Cunningham was hired by Georgia Athletic Director Steadman Sanford after Sanford watched Cunningham coach his Gordon Military Institute baseball team to an 11-0 victory on a visit to UGA. Published reports indicate that after a brief conversation, Sanford offered Cunningham a $1,350 contract on the spot.

Cunningham recruited one of his GMI baseball players to join him at Georgia. That baseball player, Bob McWhorter, became Georgia’s first football All-American in 1913.

The Atlanta Georgian and News Monday newspaper described Georgia’s 1912 offensive attack as “bush league,” and noted that coach William Cunningham “needs some assistants in Athens.” Despite the negative editorializing, Georgia won this game and went 6-1-1 in the season. George McWhorter, shown at the right running the ball, had a stellar year. In 1913, he was named Georgia’s first All-American.

College football then wasn’t the multi-million dollar, full-time enterprise it is today. So when he wasn’t coaching UGA football, Cunningham attended Georgia’s law school and served as faculty advisor to the Delta Chapter of the Sigma Chi fraternity.

Oh, and as if that wasn’t enough, Cunningham served as Georgia’s head basketball coach during the 1910–1911 season and again from 1916–1917, compiling a 62% winning percentage.

Under Cunningham, Georgia’s football team were top-rated in the region. In his eight seasons as head coach, Cunningham had seven winning campaigns. His 68% winning percentage puts him in fifth place among coaches who completed at least at least ten games — one spot behind the legendary Vince Dooley.

According to published accounts, Cunningham’s Bulldogs were fierce competitors and among the top teams in the region. But compared to the determination and bravery of their coach, the Bulldogs were mere pups playing together on a peaceful field.

In 1917 and 1918, University of Georgia and many other colleges suspended their sports programs as World War I required young men to serve their countries on a foreign battlefield. Although he was over 30 years old and not subject to being drafted, Coach Cunningham joined the US Army with his football players as new recruits headed to France.

Cunningham served with 321st Machine-Gun Battalion, 82d Division, A.E.F., near Sommerance, France, participating in battles of the Meuse-Argonne offensive. Rain dampened the battlefields in early October. German bombs fell heavily on the US and Allied positions across the front as the Germans fought fiercely to stem the slowly advancing Allied offensive which had broken out of the trench war stalemate.

Georgia’s new Sanford Stadium was empty in 1917 and 1918, as many players and Coach William Cunningham were serving in the US Army during World War 1. Though he was over 30 years old and not a prime Army recruit, Cunningham volunteered for service.

On Oct. 12, 1918 – on a day when Cunningham likely would have been coaching his team on Georgia’s new Sanford Field – Captain Cunningham led his unit in an attack on the German lines. Painfully wounded in the face by shrapnel when his battalion was seriously engaged in battle, Cunningham continued leading his men through the heavy shell fire.

On a battlefield like this near Summerance, France, Georgia football coach lead his unit against German troops, advancing through a hail of machine gun fire and bombs despite a severe shrapnel injury to his face. Cunningham was awarded the Army Distinguished Service Cross, with the citation commending him for “leading his men with skill and inspiring them with courage.”

For his outstanding service, Cunningham was awarded the Army Distinguished Service Cross, the nation’s second highest military honor. The citation lauded Cunningham for his efforts “leading his men with skill and inspiring them with courage” despite his serious head wounds. He also was inducted posthumously into the 82nd Airborne Division Hall of Fame.

After the war, Cunningham returned to his coaching position at Georgia and led the Bulldogs on another winning campaign in the 1919 season. He left UGA after the 1919 season having compiled a final football record of 43–18–9.

Rejoining the US Army, Cunningham also served during World War 2. He ended his Army career with the rank of colonel. Cunningham later served as the professor of military studies at Clemson University from 1943 to 1946.

Colonel Cunningham is buried at Marietta National Cemetery at gravesite Q 181-C

Enjoy a Free Di$ney Day and Rest Your Wallet

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Enjoy a Free Di$ney Day and Rest Your Wallet

Legend has it that the D in Disney doesn’t stand for discount.  That’s generally true, but we found free things at Disney.

We recently took an extended-family trip to Disney World that included three days of park admissions.  To get a break from the Disney park death march and let our adult children enjoy some free time, we volunteered to watch our three-year-old granddaughter for the day. We were torn between another paid park admission, hanging out at our condo pool or finding some other activities.  And that’s how we created our own “free” Disney Day and saved hundreds of dollars in admissions while enjoying a full day of activity, adventure, fun and rides.

Legend has it that the D in Disney doesn’t stand for discount.  And that’s generally true, unless you’re a Florida resident or a member of a group.  Otherwise, typical Disney park admissions are expensive for us commoners who typically purchase a three-or-four-day pass.  And while daily admission prices do decline with tickets for longer periods, who has time – or the patience and energy – to endure even more.

Chances are that if you’re in Orlando for the typical five-to-seven day visit, you’ll want a slower day without high-price tickets to rest your body and wallet. But the little ones will still be screaming for their “daily Disney fix,” especially if you’ve been building up their expectations for months in advance.

DIsney, Magic Kingdom, Free Disney, Orlando, Florida, vacation
When you’re tired and the wallet’s empty, the little ones will still want their daily Disney fix. Our grand kids pooped out before we could enjoy all the free activities we planned.

Let’s stipulate that this plan may not work with travel-and-activity-savvy tween-agers or older, but it’s a perfect idea for tired youngsters.  And grandparents and parents, the kids will still have a blast riding, playing, and enjoying a Disney experience when you use your creativity and these ideas.

Parking at Disney Springs is free. Take a picture of your row number in case you’re too Disney-dazed to remember where you parked.

Here are a few things we did, plus some other ideas for creating your own admissions-free Disney Day:

  • Free Parking. For your admission-free Disney day, you’ll find plenty of free parking at Disney Springs. Despite the years-ago rebrand, we still alternate calling it by its previous names of Disney Village, Pleasure Island or Downtown Disney. There’s plentiful free garage and surface parking at this mixed-use shopping, dining and entertainment complex.  Just find a spot and take a picture of your row number just in case you’re too Disney-dazed to remember when you return later.
  • Disney Transportation. The free Disney bus system covers the entire resort area very efficiently.  However, there is no bus transportation directly to any park from Disney Springs, likely because of the aforementioned free parking. You can get to any Disney resort, and transfer there to a park if you’re inclined.  Buses do run from parks back to Disney Springs after 4 pm. Except for times near park open and closing, most buses are not crowded. Unless your kids are regular riders of public transport, getting around the resort by bus is a treat for many youngsters. Our granddaughter was thoroughly entertained by the character-themed busses, and we made a game of picking our favorites to ride — to any destination that Minnie or Mickey were going!
  • Lego Store and Once Upon a Toy. Lego fans love these stores, and this one features fantastic Disney character displays and plentiful merchandise.  And like many located around the US, the Lego Store at Disney Springs offers free play areas where you can let the little ones exercise their creativity while you rest your body. There are numerous building spaces for creating every imaginable shape.  In the center of the outdoor area, more experienced builders can create cars and other vehicles for racing.  We sat comfortably and peacefully sipping Starbuck’s from next door while our master builders worked. Similarly, at Once Upon a Toy offers a Mr. Potato Head building area, with no obligation to purchase.

Have your little ones wait for this special visit to select from every conceivable Disney choice.

  • Disney Store. Not your local mall store, World of Disney is the largest Disney store on the planet, with plans for even more expansion. Hopefully, you’re reading this before starting your Disney trip.  If so, encourage your little ones to wait for this special visit to make their souvenir purchases from every conceivable Disney choice. That way, you won’t be stuck carrying things around all day at a park, or retrieving items held earlier for what seemed to be your convenience – until you saw the exit pick-up line! Shirts, hats, mugs, cups, characters and more – yes, they have it and everything else here.

  • Disney, Magic Kingdom, Disney Springs, Orlando, free Disney,
    At T-Rex in Disney Springs, the food isn’t free, but the animatronic dinosaurs, meteor shower and Paleo Zone are, and will entertain the little ones while you wait for food or enjoy a beverage.
  • Paleo Zone (and lunch) at T-Rex. OK, the food at T-Rex is not free, but it is a reasonable value for a Disney location. Plus, where else can you eat food with dinosaurs instead of being food for dinosaurs? The animatronic dinos weren’t too frightening for our little ones, and neither was the meteor shower. While you wait for a table or food, let the kids play (it’s free!) at the Paleo Zone or dig for fossils at Discovery Dig. You can make a reservation in advance on Open Table.
  • Splash Pads. For a post-lunch or early afternoon cool-down, Disney Springs features two splash pads. On the upside, kids love getting drenched in the unpredictable streams of jumping water. Of course, the downside is if parents or grandparents don’t have a change of clothes handy for those soaked kids.
  • Character Selfies and Hidden Mickeys. Walking through Disney Springs, resorts and elsewhere on property, you’ll come across countless opportunities for selfies with Disney character statues, sculptures, images and more. Posing for selfies with Stitch outside the Disney store,  we got a surprise shower and squealed with delight when he spit on us. We also made a game of finding and counting the “Hidden Mickeys” hiding in plain sight through the parks and property. One of the most famous and largest “hide” off I-4 just west of the parks: The Power Line Mickey. Thought you saw a Mickey head on an dick body swimming in the fountain by Muppets 3-D? No, that wasn’t an illusion.  And was that Mickey on a cookie press in the Norway pavilion in Epcot? Yep. The list goes on, as does the fun of the game.
  • Free Boat Rides. Hop a free boat ride from one the Disney docks. We jumped on at Disney Springs for a 15-minute boat to the Old Key West Resort, gliding past beautiful golf courses, wild swamps and the ever-popular Disney Tree House accommodations. We also rode the Friendship boats from Epcot to the Boardwalk. And we hopped on a mini-steamer from Magic Kingdom to the Polynesian resort. You’ll find similar boat rides connecting Epcot and Disney Studios to nearby resorts, and more near Magic Kingdom’s Seven Seas Lagoon (covered separately below.)

  • Free Disney Day Boat Ride DIsney Springs
    At Disney Springs, we jumped aboard one of the resort launches for a restful tour along golf courses and swamp scenes.
  • Resort Play Areas. Most of the Disney resorts feature very nice kids’ play area, offering opportunities to tire your energetic Disney juniors with sliding, swinging, climbing, exploring and other physical activities. You can check a resort map to find them.  We’ve not encountered any that require ID or a resort key for entry.  By my calculation, when I bought that overpriced beverage and bland food at the snack outlet on resort property, I met the definition of “guest” if there is any such requirement.

  • Disney, Magic Kingdom, Epcot, Florida, monorail
    Monorails thrill kids of all ages. Zip around the Seven Seas Lagoon and through the Contemporary Resort, or take the longer loop around Spaceship Earth and Epcot. And if the kids or grandpa fall asleep, just stay on and go around again.
  • Monorail Riding.  Because of the crowds at park open and close, we didn’t use the monorail on our paid admission days, so this was the highlight of the admission-free day for our grandkids.   We hopped a bus from Old Key West Resort to Magic Kingdom, then walked across to the monorail station, stopping to watch the steam train arrive at Main Street Station. We chose the direct monorail to the main ticket plaza, then transferred to the Epcot line. The smooth, air-conditioned ride to Epcot is 15 minutes, including a circle around Spaceship Earth and above Future World before entering the station.  Feel free to stay on board for the 15-minute return loop – or even make the full circle twice if the kiddies or grandpa has fallen asleep. On the route between the main ticket plaza and Magic Kingdom, you can choose an express train with direct service, or stops for the Polynesian, Grand Floridian or Contemporary Resort. We also like stopping at the Contemporary, so the kids can watch the monorail glide almost silently through the lobby — still amazing after all these years.

  • Free Disney World Monorail
    At the Polynesian Resort stop, our littles got a tour of the monorail cockpit.
  • Get High on Skyliner. While the skyride inside of Magic Kingdom is long gone, Disney now offers another skyride that’s free to non-ticket holders. The Disney Skyliner provides convenient and scenic transportation and aerial views while traveling between Disney destinations. Gondolas are themed with various Disney characters and designs, adding to the fun. You can catch outside of Epcot or Hollywood Studios, are at one of several Disney resorts. Note that the Skyliners will shut down in high winds and frequent thunderstorms.

  • Free Disney Day Skyliner
    Outside of Epcot Center we transferred from the Skyliner to the colorful Friendship Boats for a ride to the Boardwalk.
  • Seven Seas Lagoon Boat Rides and Ferry. Walt Disney was a master showman, and loved building anticipation of his guests. That was the inspiration of the steamboat-styled ferries that carry eager visitors across the lagoon. Because of crowd sizes today, many guests fail to appreciate this simple pleasure and, in fact, see the ferry as a nuisance. If you’ve followed our admission-free day path, take the ferry from the TTC to Magic Kingdom.  It won’t be crowded, so head upstairs and walk the top deck for the best views as the spires of Cinderella’s Castle rise slowly and grow magically taller. You’ll also have excellent views of the Polynesian and Contemporary, and likely will cross paths with resort launches and rental boats zipping across the lagoon.

  • Disney, Magic Kingdom, free Disney, Orlando, Florida, vacation
    Climb to the top deck of the Disney ferries to watch the spires of Cinderella’s Castle rise slowly and grow magically taller.
  • Disney Water Parade. While the Main Street Electrical Light Parade has passed into history, the nightly Electrical Water Pageant parade continues on the Seven Seas Lagoon. And like everything else in our “free day,” no admission ticket is required. Check this link for the daily schedule. Some of the best viewing spots include any of the Seven Seas resort hotels, and the main plaza directly in front of the entrance to Magic Kingdom. The parade lasts approximately 15 minutes, and includes an abundance of sea creatures, flags and music.  Times vary based on sunset and other events, and the parade can be cancelled due to weather. We missed the full parade on our most recent visit, because our little ones pooped out on our “free” day. You can see the parade from the ferry, too, if you plan it just right.  The best viewing spot on the ferry is on the upper deck, but the floats will be distant and you won’t hear the music.

Our little ones pooped out before we could do all the free activities at Disney.

  • Grab Free Disney Swag. Yes, there is such a thing. And though they are just little touches, the kiddies love it. Many Disney workers carry a variety of stickers, which they are happy to share with little ones. Our stroller was filled with Disney stickers offered by cast members. At the Port Orleans resort, cast members offered colorful free doubloons to throw into the fountains and slip into a pocket as a neat souvenir. And if you’re celebrating a special occasion, stop by Guest Relations and get a celebration pin. Our granddaughter’s “First Visit pin got her lots of extra attention from characters and cast members, which made her day extra special. You can get birthday pins, anniversary pins, and a more generic “I’m Celebrating” pin.

We didn’t enjoy ALL these free Disney adventures in one day. But on the day that we devoted to free activities, we explored the resorts over more than 10 hours with these free activities.  Turns out that our “free” Disney day — intended to be a rest day — was as enjoyable for our granddaughter as any of the paid days.

If you have other ideas or experiences for a Free Disney Day, please leave your comments.

Chasing “The Great Locomotive Chase”

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Chasing “The Great Locomotive Chase”

April 12, 2024, marks the 162th anniversary of The Great Locomotive Chase. It’s an epic story that began in Kennesaw and ended just outside of Ringgold, GA. In today’s environment, no major public commemorations mark the event for a variety of reasons, all of which we’ll choose to ignore for this blog.

Rather, after visits to the Southern Museum in Kennesaw and the Marietta History Center plus the purchase of Russell Bonds’ best-in-class book about the event, we’ll focus on where you can experience the story. And we’ll consider how the event became ingrained in the collective memory in books, songs, major Hollywood movies, festivals and history museums.

A view from above, looking down on The General from the second floor viewing platform at the Southern Museum. April 12 marks the 120th anniversary of The Great Locomotive Chase, which started near the site of the current museum.

Some Essential Background

Early Saturday morning, April 12, 1862, a group of approximately two dozen passengers boarded a northbound passenger train in Marietta.  The group’s leader, James J. Andrews, had planned a daring raid that would unfold over the coming hours.

Around 6 am, the train pulled into present-day Kennesaw (then known as Big Shanty) for a quick stop. The conductor, William A. Fuller, called out to passengers, “Big Shanty, 20 minutes for breakfast.” He then joined the engineer and others at the trackside Lacy’s Hotel.

As the unsuspecting train crew and passengers grabbed breakfast, Andrews and his raiders decoupled several cars. Then, they commandeered the engine and few remaining cars for what they expected would be a northbound journey of destruction in support of the Union Army.

A new podcast by transplanted Acworth resident Bob Ugi, Go South Old Man, features an oral history of The Great Locomotive Chase. You can listen to a preview here. The podcast is available from most major podcast sites, including Amazon, Apple, Audible, Spotify, iHeart, and others.

The Marietta Starting Point

The historic Kennesaw House, one of Marietta’s oldest buildings, has served as a warehouse, hospital, morgue, and hotel. Today, it’s home to the Marietta History Center, a museum meant to “preserve and display the artifacts from Marietta and Cobb County and their role in world history.”

On the second floor, overlooking the railroad tracks and a small railroad engine built at the town’s Glover Machine Works, the Andrews Raider’s Room recreates an 1860s hotel suite. Authentic furnishings from the Kennesaw House set the period. A timeline outlines the story of Andrews planning and the later train theft. There’s even a bearded mannequin, in period clothing, peering out of the window, perhaps anticipating events at the next station.

If you’re not inspired to visit because of the link to the Great Locomotive Chase, the museum’s other collections focus on the general history of the area, the home life of area residents, and other military history of the area. If you’re a history lover and reader, plan to spend approximately 2 hours for a visit.

The Andrews Raiders Room at the Marietta History Center includes a second floor room furnished with period pieces. A bearded mannequin peers down at the railroad tracks. The raiders spent the night at the former Kennesaw House Hotel before boarding The General in Marietta.

Breakfast at Big Shanty

If you’re looking for Big Shanty or the Lacy Hotel, you won’t find either.  Used by both Union and Confederate forces, Union forces torched the hotel in 1864. And Big Shanty disappeared from maps in 1887, with the official founding of the city of Kennesaw.

Today, the Southern Museum of Civil War and Locomotive History, which celebrates its 50th anniversary on April 12, 2022, occupies the approximate site of the Lacy Hotel. The museum opened in downtown Kennesaw as the Big Shanty Museum on April 12, 1972. Great fanfare accompanied the opening of the new museum, dedicated to documentation and retelling of the Great Locomotive Chase. The museum’s star attraction then and now: the restored General locomotive of chase fame.

Now a Smithsonian affiliate, the museum most often uses its shortened name, The Southern Museum. Walking through its galleries, visitors are taken back to the railroad times of the 1860s. The strategic importance of railroads as manufacturing, transportation and military resources is well-documented in the exhibits.

Celebrating its 50th anniversary, the Big Shanty Museum opened on April 12, 1972. In addition to The General, the current museum features a large exhibit focused on Marietta’s Glover Machine Works and other railroad history.

Then, artifacts from Marietta’s Glover Machine Works illustrate the operation of this historic railroad locomotive builder. Visitors can also see a film about The Great Locomotive Chase, which reflects a Southern-centric perspective of the story.

Finally, the restored General awaits, gleaming in bright red with brightly polished brass fittings. A second story viewing area provides a birds-eye perspective of the engine and its fuel car.

End of the Line

When the General ran out of fuel before reaching Chattanooga, some of the group escaped on foot. Andrews and most of the raiders were captured. Imprisoned in Atlanta and tried as spies, Andrews and his raiders received death sentences, then hanged in June 1862. Following the war, the group was reinterred in the Chattanooga National Cemetery. A memorial topped by a scale replica of the General, marks their burial sites, just inside the main gates.

Just inside the main gates of the Chattanooga National Cemetery, a monument featuring a scale replica of The General marks the final resting place of James Andrews and six of his raiders. Blue flags commemorate the Medal of Honor Recipients, the first in the history of the US.

Rescuing the Texas

Commandeered by conductor William Fuller near Calhoun, the Texas joined the chase. After its retirement in 1907, several women’s groups in Atlanta sought to have it restored. The Nashville, Chattanooga and St. Louis Railway donated the locomotive “to the ladies of Atlanta.” After restoration, the Texas resided on display in the basement of a building housing the Atlanta Cyclorama. The Texas now enjoys a new home at the Atlanta History Center’s railroad exhibit, which opened in 2018.

Retelling the Story Over Time

As our nation continues to grapple with how to understand and tell the story of this great period of national tragedy, its no surprise that the Great Locomotive Chase and its participants have received various treatments over the years. Depending on perspective, the Great Locomotive Chase has been – and continues to be – considered ALL of the following:

  • A daring military operation meant to shorten a war.
  • An ill-conceived plan conducted by poorly organized spies.
  • The heroic story of a determined railroader foiling a dastardly scheme.
  • A military footnote with no true strategic value.
The Texas is part of the railroad exhibit at the Atlanta History Center. The locomotive is restored to its 1880 appearance, when it remained a workhorse engine for the Western and Atlantic Railroad. Photo courtesy of Atlanta History Center, All Rights Reserved

While history buffs, sociologists and culture warriors may see all these perspectives differently, one fact is undebatable: the legend of the Great Locomotive Chase grew beyond any expectations. Consider that the tale has spawned:

  • US Medal of Honor. Considered the highest military award in the country, Private Jacob Wilson Parrott, a Union soldier in the raid who was physically abused as a prisoner, received the first Medal of Honor in US history. Later, a total of 19 participants also received the Medal of Honor for their parts.
  • Concert Music. Music of The Great Locomotive Chase by composer Robert W. Smith is often played by concert bands and symphonies. The piece “stages the train chase complete with fascinating textures and effects. Listeners become engulfed in the vivid sounds,” says program notes from the publisher.
  • Multiple Books. The first, entitled The Great Locomotive Chase, was written by raid participant William Pittenger. Other well-known accounts are found in “Wild Train: The Story of The Andrews Raiders,” by  Charles O’Neill and published in 1956; and “Stealing the General: The Great Locomotive Chase and the First Medal of Honor,” by Marietta resident Russel S. Bonds in 2006.
  • A Slapstick Silent Movie. Film legend Buster Keaton directed and starred in the 1926 feature film, The General.  An ad for the movie described it as, “LAUGHS to the right of you- LAUGHS to the left of you- they volley and thunder. Join the LAUGH Brigade. Enlist for Fun with the Commander-in-Chief of LAUGHTER. See him and shriek!”
  • A Disney Movie. This 1956 Hollywood version, starring Fess Parker and Jeffrey Hunter, portrays the historic story made by the Walt Disney Company. Actors Harry Carey Jr. and Slim Pickens also appeared in the film. Major portions were filmed near Clayton and Tallulah Falls, GA. The movie is available for rent or purchase on Amazon Prime Video.
  • A Television Special.  In 1961, the Disney re-edited the movie into a two-part feature for television’s “The Magical World of Disney.”
  • Community Festivals. Both Adairsville, GA, and Cartersville, GA, celebrate Great Locomotive Chase festivals.
Having served as a warehouse, hospital, morgue and hotel, the Kennesaw House is now home to the Marietta History Center. The second floor near corner is the Andrews Raiders Room, where a bearded mannequin looks down on the station and tracks.

Giant Fusion Eggrolls Make Eggroll Boyz a Marietta Must-Stop

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Giant Fusion Eggrolls Make Eggroll Boyz a Marietta Must-Stop

It’s official: those giant-sized fusion eggrolls that made Eggroll Boyz one of the most looked-for food trucks around North Georgia are now available at the Marietta Square Market food hall.

You may have seen that news posted elsewhere in February. But having spent a lifetime in the global restaurant business, we know better than to judge a new food outlet with a visit in the first month of operation. So, after Eggroll Boyz opened on Feb. 10 at Marietta Square Market, we let them work out all the kinks with operations, suppliers and personnel before visiting in mid-March to sample their fusion eggroll menu.

And believe us, it was worth the wait! We were rewarded with quick, friendly service and the giant-sized, fried-to-perfection fusion eggrolls we’ve experienced in previous visits to their food truck and Alpharetta location.

On our first visit to the Marietta Square food hall location, we selected the large Island Boyz roll with standard accompanying fries and fried rice. It was enough for two at lunch.

Not Your Regular Eggroll!

Compared to traditional eggrolls found at Chinese restaurants, that just ain’t how the Eggroll Boyz roll. Instead, based on their travels and food experiences, Eggroll Boyz create fusion eggrolls that use everything from Philly Cheese steak and lobster to burgers, barbeque, buffalo chicken and more.

On our first (yes — there will be MANY more!) visit to the Marietta location, we chose the Island Boyz roll with accompanying fried rice and french fries. Knowing the portion sizes from previous visits to the food truck and Alpharetta location, we opted to share the plate between the two of us. And when we were done, we were both as well stuffed as any of the huge rolls dished out by the Eggroll Boyz.

Of course, the highlight was that eggroll — stuffed with seasoned pulled chicken, accompanied by angel hair cabbage, and topped with the Boyz’ special jerk sauce. From first bite to the last, every mouthful was a flavor explosion that transported us to the Caribbean. If there was a Jimmy Buffet song in the background and boat drinks on the table, this just might have been heaven.

Hitting Stride at Marietta

As mentioned, we had visited Eggroll Boyz elsewhere previously, and this visit in Marietta matched each wonderful experience we’ve had. So if the Boyz had any of those first-month “jitters” that ruin the openings of so many new restaurants, they were all gone and cleared by our Mid-March visit.

You’ll find Eggroll Boyz located down a side hall at Marietta Square food market, occupying the space previously housing Cousin’s Lobster Rolls. The eggrolls are much better than the lobster rolls of the previous occupant.

We should mention that Eggroll Boyz isn’t really a value dining outlet. But then again, these aren’t the tiny, greasy, side-order items you get when ordering off a Chinese menu, either.Depending on the size you choose, you’ll pay anywhere from $15 up to $28 for one of their standard menu rollz and accompaniments. A lunch menu offers up a $15 option that includes a drink. And there are kids rollz offered at a lower price point.

On this visit, we didn’t have room for any of their specialty fries, though we’ve had their Cheezy Boyz Fries and Bacon Boyz fries on other visits, and enjoyed every bite. We haven’t ever had room left to try their desserts, but we are planning a special “dessertz-only” visit soon. We’ll post another story when we do, as they look amazing!

On our food truck visit, we went for the Barbeque Boyz roll, with a side of cheesy fries. This plate easily was enough for two people.

What Others Say

We dug through the reviews for Eggroll Boyz and found the most comments on the three following items:

  1. Burger Boyz Full – Priced at $18.95, this large entree is a standout item on the menu, offering a substantial meal for customers to enjoy.
  2. Lunchy Boyz Combo – Available only from 11 am to 2 pm, this combo meal is priced at $14.99 and is a popular choice among patrons looking for a satisfying lunch option.
  3. Philly Boyz Half – Priced at $14.95, the Philly Boyz Half is another well-received item on the menu, known for its delicious flavors and generous portion size.

Frankly, those all sounded good, but a little “standard” for our taste buds. We checked out some of the more “exotic” offers and found fans had high praise for the Bayou Boyz Full which offers a seafood delight with crab, lobster, and shrimp. Returning fans appreciate the innovative combination of flavors and high-quality ingredients. This one is definitely on our “to-do” list for a future visit.

In addition to physical locations in Marietta and Alpharetta, you’ll often find the Eggroll Boyz food trucks in Cobb County cities and towns, and at local events.

Migrating Hummingbirds Stop, Nest In Georgia on Long Journey

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Migrating Hummingbirds Stop, Nest In Georgia on Long Journey

The annual long journey of the tiny hummingbird is underway, and the migrating masses likely will be reaching Atlanta, Cobb County and the rest of North Georgia later this month and beyond as they head north for the mating season. Georgians are most likely to spot ruby-throated hummingbirds here.

Based on historical patterns reported by various tracking sources, the first in the hummingbird migration generally reach South Georgia by early March. Sightings increase in the areas around Atlanta by mid-March, then up to the Tennessee and South Carolina borders by April 1. On both spring and fall migrations, several websites like Hummingbirdcentral.com offer interactive maps where birdwatchers can register their sightings and help track the hummingbird migration schedule. The website JourneyNorth.org offers a map that can be animated over time.

Hummingbird hovering in a flower garden
Hummingbirds are always looking for sweet nectar to power their migration. They stop frequently and often drink as much as three times their body weight to sustain their high metabolism. We photographed this Black Chinned Hummingbird at a botanical garden in Arizona.

When you spot the first hummingbird of the season, you can submit your sighting to help track the hummingbird migration. Individuals are encouraged to submit winter or unusual species sightings to the Georgia Department of Natural Resources. Georgia hummingbird enthusiast

A few hummingbirds remain in Georgia year-round, mostly in coastal and Southern areas of the state, according to the Georgia Department of Natural Resources. However, the majority migrate, traveling along a path from winter home lands in Mexico, Central America and the Caribbean to spring and summer nesting grounds along the Eastern US seacoast.

https://img.particlenews.com/image.php?url=40YHBM_0eWlyO7000
Based on historical patterns, hummingbirds should start reaching North Georgia around March 20. Sites like Hummingbirdcentral.com offer tracking and interactive maps.

In the spring hummingbird migration to their nesting areas, hummingbirds take a leisurely approach to their journey. Typically, they will travel approximately 20 miles per day, then stop for resting and frequent feeding periods. With the highest metabolism of any species, they feed at hundreds of flowers and up to six times or more per hour, according to Hummingbirdsplus.org. Those stops are essential as hummingbirds generally consume at least half of their weight and as much as double or triple their weight in nectar each day. They also add some protein to their diets by eating some insects and spiders. (For lots of other cool hummingbird facts — like hummingbirds don’t “hum” at all, but rather create a humming sound due to the fast beating of their wings — visit hummingbirdsplus.org)

To spot migrating hummingbirds, don’t look up for sky-darkening flocks or neat V-style formations of the tiny birds traveling together. Hummingbirds are loners and fly individually. So the best chance of spotting them is as they fly around a garden looking for food. Some local botanical gardens like Smith-Gilbert Gardens in Kennesaw, Gibbs Gardens in Ballground and Atlanta Botanical Gardens feature special hummingbird areas where they concentrate nectar-producing flowers and other bushes that attract the tiny birds.

Want lots of cool facts and great information on everything hummingbirds? The website, hummingbirdsplus.org is a great resource and lots of fun to explore.

You can increase the number of hummingbirds near your home by making your yard and garden more hummingbird friendly. Hummingbird feeders that hold commercially-produced or homemade nectar. The US National Zoo and Smithsonian Institution publish a homemade recipe for nectar, plus lots of other tips for attracting hummingbirds. The Georgia Department of Natural Resources also publishes a list of native and exotic plants that help attract hummingbirds. Hummingbird enthusiast Elizabeth Donaldson has written an informative site that features Georgia hummingbird facts, pictures and sounds. She also publishes similar information for other states.

More Georgia Natural Content

OurTravelCafe.com focuses on North Georgia content that includes family-friendly outdoor activities and more. Some of our articles also appear on Newsbreak. Following are links to some of our recent Newsbreak nature and outdoor articles:

If you enjoy stories about birds, you might also like to learn about nesting ospreys and their hatching season at Lake Allatoona, GA.

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We also publish stories by DeanLand on NewsBreak. To see more content, follow DeanLand on the Newsbreak platform.

Prime Time for Soaring Ospreys at Lake Allatoona

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Prime Time for Soaring Ospreys at Lake Allatoona

As early blooms peak through the soil and the first leaves appear on trees, Lake Allatoona ospreys will soon return to their nesting sites for spring hatching season. Each year, pairs of these large birds of prey begin the mating season in March and April, before the female lays her eggs in a large nest high up in tall trees or man-made structures.

At Lake Allatoona, ospreys have more places to nest since 1998. That’s when the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers and Georgia Power began a cooperative program to erect nesting platforms at six locations. Georgia Power provided 40-foot-tall poles for the nests. The Corps and Georgia Power provided equipment and manpower to erect the nesting towers. More towers were added in 2013.

Man-made osprey nesting platforms dot the lakeside at Lake Allatoona, thanks to a partnership between the Army Corps of Engineers and Georgia Power.

According to Army Corps of Engineers, the osprey population at Lake Allatoona has grown from one pair of nesting birds in 1995 to more than a dozen in recent years. Considered an endangered species in the 1970s due to the environmental impacts of DDT, osprey have rebounded in recent decades. The species was removed from the endangered list in 1983 but is still protected by the U.S. Migratory Bird Treaty Act.

Early in the mating season, male osprey perform a mating flight or “fish dance” high above the lake. The male osprey soars high in the air, then treads air before diving more than 100 feet. It rises quickly and treads air again. The male may repeat the dance multiple times to attract the attention of a nearby female.

Ospreys soar high above the lake, then dive down to capture fish in their talons, where a reversible toe and sharp spines help to secure their prize.

The female osprey lays her eggs in the April-May timeframe in North Georgia. While the eggs incubate, both the male and female osprey tend the nest. Once the young birds hatch, the adult pair share duties. The female tends and defends the nest more, while the male does most of the food-gathering. The young ospreys take their first flights approximately 55 days after hatching. They remain in the nest tended by the adults for approximately 100 days.

Once paired, ospreys are believed to be largely monogamous and faithful to both the mate and nest. Paired osprey live in the same area and return to the same nest for years, according to the National Wildlife Federation.

Both male and female ospreys tend to the nest when the young are incubating and growing. Young ospreys begin flying approximately 55 days after hatching.

Where to See Lake Allatoona Ospreys

With more than a dozen man-made nesting platforms and other natural sites, it’s not unusual to see ospreys soaring high above Lake Allatoona. The impressive large birds have a wingspan of over five feet. Due to their size and white heads, they often are confused with the larger bald eagle. Ospreys hover above the water, locate their prey and swoop down to capture shallow-swimming fish with their talons extended. A reversible fourth toe and short spines on the undersides of each foot help them grasp slippery fish.

The Army Corps of Engineers does not publish a map with osprey nesting locations. Made-made nesting platforms can be spotted near the shoreline of the lake atop utility-style poles. One example is located along the Allatoona Battlefield Park hiking trail. A natural nest rests in the steel girders of the Red Top Mountain Road bridge leading to Red Top Mountain State Park.

A natural osprey nest with two adult birds rests on the steel girders of the Red Top Mountain bridge.

Six Reasons We Love Winter Hiking

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Six Reasons We Love Winter Hiking

When the winter solstice passes deep into December, many we know pack up their hiking gear and wait for the spring before venturing out again. For us, winter hiking in Georgia is just another hiking season, with different appeal, unique sights, and a perfect opportunity to escape those indoor blues.

We love getting out on uncrowded trails on sunny winter days, enjoying the exercise, sunshine and great views that you don’t always see when there’s full foliage.

With an above-average 217 sunshiny days annually, North Georgia’s hiking season definitely extends year-round. Now, we’re saying that winter is our favorite hiking season. But it’s not our least-favorite either, a designation we reserve for humid, sweaty, bug-infested summer when we greatly prefer water, kayaks, beaches or air-conditioned resorts. Winter hiking simply requires a different set of equipment and a brighter outlook for darker days.

Reasons We Love Winter Season

Here are six reasons we love winter hiking, and look forward to getting outdoors during Georgia’s mild winter season:

1. No Sweat.

That may be an overstatement, but you get the point. When you dress warmly for winter hiking, you may end up shedding a layer to avoid a few spots of mild dampness. But compared to the strength-draining, drenching body water works of summer, working up a slight winter sweat signals that you’re getting a good workout while enjoying the outdoors. We always wear a wicking underlayer for winter hikes, which moves water away from the skin and helps retain warmth. And after a winter hike, we generally feel comfortable dropping in at a local restaurant (like Harvest Moon in Rome, GA.) for some comfort food and a beverage, not fearing we’ll offend the olfactory senses of patrons at nearby tables.

We always wear layers for winter hiking, including a moisture-wicking underlayer to help retain warmth. And after a winter hike, we’re not sweat-drenched, so we feel comfortable dropping in at local restaurants without risk of offending nearby patrons.

2. Happy trails

There’s nothing more annoying than heading out into the great wide open to find yourself shoulder-to-shoulder with a herd of humans. During the winter, Georgia trails often are wide-open, or at least far-less-trafficked than any other time of the year. We have the luxury of weekday hiking, and we rarely run into large groups. On weekends, we try to avoid Kennesaw Mountain and other urban hikes, but even those popular sites feature smaller crowds in winter.

Winter trails are happy, wide-open trails, where we can avoid herds of humans while spotting friendly forest creatures enjoying the quiet, solitude and sunshine.

3. More to See

Fallen leaves open the view from different angles, often revealing hidden treasures and vistas impossible to spot during other seasons. Winter at Amicalola Falls and Dukes Creek Falls reveals the full vertical splendor of Georgia’s tall falls as they cascade deep into the valleys below. Wandering the trails at Red Top Mountain, you can spot chimneys standing alone deep in the pine forest, the only remaining evidence of previous occupants. Mountain-top views at KeMo, Pine Mountain and Sloppy Floyd State Park offer a wider view of the surrounding area with fewer leaves blocking site lines. And if you look into the forest far off the trails or even down near your feet, you may even spot deer and other forest creatures you might otherwise miss in full foliage.

Winter hikes reveal the hidden splendor of Georgia’s most magnificent treasures, like the full length of Amicalola Falls, not visible in other seasons.
It’s easier to capture spectacular panoramas, like this one at Kennesaw Mountain, when the leaves are down and the sun is up.

4. Fewer slithering surprises

With more to see all around, you can take solace in the fact that there’s a lesser likelihood of encountering slithering surprises on trails during the winter. But let’s clear up a misconception: snakes don’t hibernate during winter. Instead, they brumate, becoming less active and slowing their metabolism to reduce their food and water needs. But while they aren’t as active, they are still around, seeking warmth, often in underground dens and under wood and rock piles. Here’s a fun fact: while you’re less likely to see a snake outdoors in winter, the odds increase that you’ll encounter one indoors – like in your garage, your storage shed or even in your house. So come on, get OUTSIDE in the winter to avoid snakes! 🙂

Snakes are less active during their winter brumation, when these cold-blooded reptiles seek warmth under wood and rock piles, or in underground dens. We spotted this non-venomous fellow seeking sunlight near a fallen tree along a stream.

5. Bright Light

North Georgia enjoys lots of winter days when the sun is high in the sky or peeking through scattered or thin clouds. That’s good news for those afflicted by Seasonal Affective Disorder, or SAD, which Mayo Clinic reports is most frequent in the winter, sapping your energy and making you feel moody or even depressed. Exposure to natural light delivers proven relief, including accelerating production of Vitamin D and potentially boosting a positive attitude. So while we love the convenience of walking the indoor track at the local YMCA or even making the 40 loops of our basement to measure one mile, there’s nothing like soaking up some sunshine on a winter hike – even on a cloudy day – to improve your health.

When the walls close in, we head outdoors to get the benefit of sunlight therapy — and get visiting family and friends out of the house.

6. Cure for Cabin Fever

We love our home, but we often feel the walls closing in during winter. There’s a reason Jimmy Buffet sings in Boat Drinks, “This morning, I shot six holes in my freezer. I think I got cabin fever; somebody sound the alarm.” Often, by February, we are looking forward to a Caribbean cruise to St. Somewhere. But during the other weeks, we find it much more practical to head to a nearby trail, state park, historical site or national land preserve for a simple walk in the woods — especially when we can get visiting family and friends out of the house for some needed space.

More Winter Wandering Ideas

So far, we’ve mentioned and provided links about winter hiking at Pine Mountain in Cartersville, Amicalola Falls State Park, Duke’s Creek Falls, Red Top Mountain State Park, and Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park. Here are a few others that we’ve done that are ideal for winter hiking:

The low-volume falls at Sloppy Floyd are on our list for a return visit this winter. We’ve seen a few pictures of the frozen falls that we want to add to our own collection.

James “Sloppy” Floyd State Park.  We’ve hiked Sloppy several times, up to the Marble Mine and then to the high intersection with the 300+-mile Pinhoti Scenic Trail. (We promise we’ll get around to writing about our adventures, as it’s a fun family outing.) For Winter 2021, this one is on our list to visit again after a couple of days of freezing weather, when the low-volume falls can create some incredible winter picture opportunities.

Cloudland Canyon State Park. One of our favorite Georgia State Parks, featuring two major waterfalls, several smaller ones, and a spectacular canyon view. Fall is our favorite time here, and we tend to visit on weekdays, as weekends have been crowded during this year of Covid-19. Again, freezing days can create a winter wonderland of photo ops.

Cloudland Canyon is one of our favorite destinations year-round. We snapped this colorful fall photo, while winter reveals even more of the park’s smaller falls.

Black Rock Mountain State Park. Hiking the 2.2 mile Tennessee Rock Trail offers incredible vistas anytime of the year, but the views really open up when the leaves fall down.

Pickett’s Mill State Historical Area. Visiting in the winter can offer a better understanding of how battle activities played out during this bloody Civil War assault. We also prefer the winter because lower temperatures and shorter grass on the lesser-traveled trails means lower risks of ticks.

Mountain to River Trail. We often combine an early-Saturday-morning visit to the Marietta Farmer’s Market with a hike on this urban trail. We like it in winter because we can then grab a hot coffee or warm lunch at the Marietta Food Market (we owe an update on this post!) or from one of the many restaurants at the square when we’re done. We wrote this up as a fun bike trail, but we often walk it from the Square.

Creative hikers brought along hammocks, attached them to mountain-top trees, and enjoyed a rest coupled with great views. We’re looking forward to trying this with our Christmas-gift hammock soon.

A Walk in the Woods

We’ll conclude with a book recommendation. If you can’t or won’t take our advice to get out for a winter hike, you can enjoy our favorite hiking book, A Walk in the Woods by Bill Bryson. It’s a personal and highly comical story of Bryson’s attempt to hike the Appalachian Trail from Georgia to Maine with a friend. If you’re not hiking, winter’s a great time for reading this or any other Bryson book, for that matter – to improve your attitude and outlook!

When we’re done walking in the woods, look for local restaurants for some comfort food and a refreshing beverage. Cooler temperatures mean we’re less likely to offend the olfactory senses of patrons when nearby tables are crowded.
Hikes can be through urban areas, too. We enjoy visiting the Marietta Farmer’s Market on early Saturday mornings for fresh buys, then walking the Mountain to River Trail. We usually end up at a Marietta Square Market food hall, or one of the plethora of options surrounding Marietta Square.

Beyond the Monuments: Remembering Fallen Heroes at Marietta National Cemetery

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Beyond the Monuments: Remembering Fallen Heroes at Marietta National Cemetery

Walking through Marietta National Cemetery or any US National Cemetery, visitors feel awed and silenced by the stunning symmetry and meticulous care for the hallowed grounds. Within these final resting places for hundreds of thousands of our nation’s protectors and heroes, glistening white headstones share small details about those who rest here below the thick carpet of dark green grass.

Scattered throughout most national cemeteries, a few larger monuments also commemorate gallant actions, tragic events and heroic moments remembered for their indelible mark on our country’s history.

Visitors often feel awed and silenced by the stunning symmetry and meticulous care for the hallowed grounds of National Cemeteries. We’re offering this guide to finding and viewing monuments and notable burial sites at Marietta National Cemetery.

At Marietta National Cemetery, curious and intrepid visitors can find several such monuments scattered throughout the more than 18,000 gravesites. But unlike Arlington National Cemetery in Washington, DC, there are no regular tours at Marietta National to take visitors to much-visited locations. Neither are there any on-site resources available for self-guided exploration. So finding, viewing and understanding the monuments in Marietta National Cemetery takes curiosity, determination, some physical stamina and prior research.

With Memorial Day approaching, we’ve made several recent visits to Marietta National Cemetery. Following our own exploration and with help of other local resources, we’ve compiled the following information about significant monuments and individual memorials located at Marietta National Cemetery. We offer this as our personal memorial to all those who have died in service of our country on this Memorial Day. And we hope to find and share more of these stories in the future.

Marietta National’s Monuments

The Entrance Arch to Marietta National Cemetery at Washington and Cole Streets stands 35-feet tall, and is one of five monumental archways at national cemeteries in the South.

Entrance Arch. A 35-foot tall arch spans the main entrance to the cemetery at the corner of Washington and Cole Streets.  It is one of five monumental masonry archways that originally served as the formal entrance to national cemeteries found in the South at Marietta; Chattanooga, TN, Nashville, TN, Arlington National Cemetery in Virginia, and Vicksburg National Cemetery in Mississippi. The Roman-inspired structures feature Doric columns, a pair of ornamental iron gates, and inscriptions above the arch. Marietta National’s inscriptions read, “Marietta National Cemetery, Established 1866,” and “Here rest the remains of 10,312 Officers and Soldiers who died in defense of the Union 1861-1865.”

Pearl Harbor Memorial. Located just inside the gate and dedicated by the Pearl Harbor Survivors Association on Dec. 7, 1996, this monument honors “those who died and those who survived the Japanese attack.” The circular monument features bricks engraved with the names of the deceased, with a headstone-shaped granite marker overlooking the space.

The Pearl Harbor Survivors Association helps to commemorate the Dec. 7, 1941, attack and those involved in it with this monument near the main entrance. Bricks are engraved with names of the deceased.

20th Army Corps Monument. A ten foot tall by two foot square obelisk located in Section B, it was erected in May 1870, only four years after the cemetery’s dedication. The monument is dedicated to the “dead heroes” of the second division of the 20th Corps, and includes a listing of battles fought by the division from Antietam in 1862 through Atlanta in 1864.

Gold Star Mother’s Monument. The Atlanta chapter of this organization donated and erected this two-foot-tall marble monument in 1960. Located near the base of the flagpole, it is inscribed: IN MEMORY OF MEMBERS OF THE ARMED FORCES OF THE UNITED STATES MISSING IN ACTION.

Rostrum. Built in 1940 in the style of Greek temples at the Acropolis, this white marble and concrete structure overlooks the cemetery from the highest hill. Three marble benches offer a peaceful location for reflection. On multiple visits, we’ve found – and left undisturbed – personal items left behind to commemorate loved ones by families visiting the cemetery. To reach the Rostrum, you’ll walk under a wisteria-covered arbor built on the remains of the original 1883 Rostrum.

Viewed through an archway of the Rostrum, the 12-foot-tall Wisconsin Monument features the likeness of a badger. More than 2,000 people attended the dedication on Memorial Day, 1925, according to local newspaper reports.

Wisconsin Monument. This 12-foot tall columnar monument near the Rostrum is made of Wisconsin granite, and topped by the likeness of a badger, the Wisconsin symbol of heroic tendency. Celebrated with a huge parade and attended by more than 2,000 people, the monument was dedicated on Memorial Day 1925. With Biblical inscriptions and a listing of the Wisconsin units which fought in the Atlanta campaign, the monument honors the 405 sons of the state of Wisconsin who had perished in Georgia during the Civil War and who are interred in the cemetery.

Notable Burial Sites

Each time we visit Marietta National Cemetery, we find more sites for additional research. Following are a few of those where we’ve been able to find additional, sourced information. We’ve included links to additional information on most of these. And we continue searching for information on many others, noted at the end of this list.

Medal of Honor Sites. Two recipients of the country’s highest military honor are memorialized at Marietta. Near the flagpole in Section MB, a cenotaph honors Georgia native Marine Corporal Lee Hugh Phillips, recognized for heroic leadership in Korea. Killed in action, his remains were never recovered. In Section G, Canadian native and New York regiment member Private Dennis Buckley was awarded the Medal of Honor for his Civil War service. We did a full story on the Medal of Honor recipients.

Medal of Honor recipient Corporate Lee H. Phillips never returned home from Korea. He is commemorated with this cenotaph near the flagpole in Section G.

Former Georgia Governor John Clark, 1766–1832. Clark was an American Revolutionary War veteran, a US Congressman, and served as Georgia governor from 1819 to 1825. In 1825, he was defeated by 683 votes in the first governor’s election decided by popular vote of citizens. He died and was buried in Florida in 1832, then was reinterred at Marietta in May 1923 by the Daughters of the American Revolution. Clark is buried in Section D, Site 10391.

Freed Slave and Army Nurse Emma Stephenson, died 1864. As an Army nurse, Stephenson cared for wounded and ill white Union soldiers until her own death from a camp illness in July 1864. Her story was featured in a five-part series on PBS, “Civil War: The Untold Story.” She is buried in Section F, Site 4841. Also buried in Section F are 238 black Union soldiers who were killed from 1864 to 1866, some killed while patrolling Marietta after the War.

Section F is the final resting place of Civil War US Army Nurse Emma Stephenson, a freed slave who cared for wounded soldiers until her death from a camp illness. And 238 black Union soldiers killed between 1864 and 1866 also are buried in section F.

Professional Wrestler Frank Simmons Leavitt, (1891–1953). In as colorful a story as you’ll ever find, this Hell’s Kitchen, NY, native used his father’s birth records to join the Army in World War I. After serving five stints, he had a storied career as a professional wrestler, known Soldier Leavitt and eventually as Man Mountain Dean because of his huge 300-plus-pound frame. He became a movie star, was fired from a police force for being close friends with Al Capone and then rejoined the US Army during World War II.   As a Master Sergeant in World War II, he was assigned to a top-secret training camp in Maryland dedicated to a counter-intelligence force comprised of immigrants from Germany, Japan and Italy. Leavitt taught deadly hand-to-hand combat techniques to the enrollees, as they also learned the art of spying.  He also appeared in US Army propaganda films supporting the US war effort. Sports Illustrated did an outstanding feature on Leavitt in May 2022. Leavitt is buried in Section J, Site 9672-D.

In addition to training in hand-to-hand combat, Frank Leaveitt, AKA Man Mountain Dean, used his acting talents to help create war films for the US Department of Defense. Here, on the left, he plays a Nazi officer addressing troops. Photo: U.S. Army Intelligence Center of Excellence Command History Office, Fort Huachuca, Arizona

Georgia Tech President Col. Blake Van Leer (1893 –1956). Former president of Georgia Tech, and founder of Marietta’s Southern Polytechnic State University (now part of Kennesaw State).  An orphan and holder of two PhDs, Col. Van Leer was in active military service in World Wars 1 and 2, earning the French Croix de Guerre for acts of heroism. He was the first engineer to serve as president of Georgia Tech and led the institution through a name change from Georgia School of Technology to Georgia Tech. Van Leer fought for, then gained approval, to admit women to the university, and also supported integration of the school. Van Leer is buried in Section A, Site 10316-D

Army Nurse, Artist and Activist Ella Lillian Wall Van Leer (1892–1986). Known as First Lady of Georgia Tech, Ella Lillian Wall Van Leer was a wartime nurse, architect, artist, and women’s rights activist.  She received the US Legion of Merit for medical service in the military. Two of her map art works featuring women authors have been displayed in the Smithsonian Institute. Known as First Lady of Georgia Tech, in 2002, the Georgia Tech alumni magazine called her the “backbone of women” at the school and their “unofficial dean” for her work in overturning the statute barring female students from enrolling at Georgia Tech. Van Leer is buried with her husband, Col. Blake Van Leer, in Section A, Site 10316-C.

UGA Football and Basketball Head Coach General W. A. Cunningham (1886–1968). Cunningham became 15th head coach for UGA football in 1910. He served as head football coach for 10 years, and his 68% winning percentage is the fifth highest among all multi-year Georgia football coaches – just behind legends Vince Dooley and Mark Richt. Head football coach when World War I commenced, he joined the Army and reached the rank of general. He returned to UGA to coach one more football season, then rejoined the Army, serving through World War II. Cunningham also served as head basketball coach for two separate stints. Cunningham is buried in Section Q Site 181-C.

W.A. Cunningham, bottom right wearing the “V” sweater, joined the Army and became a general when the Georgia football program was suspended due to World War I. His 68% winning percentage over 10 years places him 5th among multi-year UGA football coaches, behind Kirby Smart, Vince Dooley and Mark Richt. Photo: UGA Special Collections Library Online Exhibitions

Vietnam Special Forces Member Wilford A. Phelps, (1939-1986). Lt. Col. Wilford A Phelps was a highly-decorated Vietnam veteran of US Special Forces. He received the Distinguished Service Cross, the second-highest military award behind the Medal of Honor. He also received the Silver Star with Oak Cluster, indicating he twice qualified for the nation’s third-highest military honor. His headstone lists these honors and citations: Distinguished Service Cross, Silver Star with Oakleaf Cluster, Distinguished Flying Cross, Legion of Merit, Bronze Star with Valor V, Air Medal with Valor VI, Purple Heart VI, Vietnam Medal of Honor, Vietnam Cross for Gallantry IV, and Presidential Unit Citation. But in searches of military citation databases and other records, we can find only one reference to Lt. Col. Phelps, for a Silver Star issued in 1976. The commendation reads, “for gallantry in action while engaged in military operations in the Republic of Vietnam, while serving as a member of the Special Forces (Tiger Force) Platoon, on 4 November 1966.” We’ve read many other Medal of Honor, Distinguished Service Cross and Silver Star citations which are more specific in their recounting of actions. Given his Special Forces assignment and the vague nature of this citation, this leads us to believe that many of Lt. Col. Phelps’ commendations and citations may have occurred in classified operations. Phelps is buried in Section A Site 739-A,

The heroics and numerous high-level citations of Lt. Colonel W. A. Phelps are still shrouded in secrecy, years after his service in the special forces in Vietnam. Phelps was awarded the Distinguished Service Cross and two Silver Stars, the second and third-highest military awards in the US Armed Services.

Others We’re Researching

With each visit to Marietta National Cemetery, we find additional headstones and stories that we want to research. If you have an interesting story you want to share, post it in our comments. And following is a list we’re currently researching to learn more:

Multi-War Service Personnel. We’ve discovered many dedicated service personnel who served through multiple conflict periods. These include Air Force Colonel Frederick Kuhlman and Chief Warrant Officer Thomas O. Crocker, both of whom served in World War II, Korea, Vietnam; Master Sergeant Joseph Lewis Plant, serving in World Wars I and II.

Plane Crash Victims. In Section A, a headstone remembers five members of the 29th Bomb Group of the Army Air Force who died in a plane crash on April 29, 1942. The training mission crash occurred near Tampa, FL, between a bomber and chase plane operating out of what is now McDill Air Force Base. The unusual monument to this crew is a curiosity, and we’re wondering if there’s a local connection to the Marietta Bell Bomber factory, which built the B-29 bomber.

Brig. General John William Middleton, a one-time commanding officer of the Chinese Training Center in Kunming, and also served as the President of the War Crimes Commission.

These Georgia Autumn Hikes Guarantee Amazing Foliage and Bright Colors 

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These Georgia Autumn Hikes Guarantee Amazing Foliage and Bright Colors 

We love hiking in all seasons. And whenever we hike, we have a camera or phone along, always taking lots of scenic photos of the landscape and surroundings. So now that fall is approaching, we’re mapping out some nearby Northwest Georgia hikes where we know fall colors will be plentiful, and where we can compare the colors to other seasons in our photos.

A spectacular fall color palette is just steps from the main parking lot and all along the canyon rim trail at Cloudland Canyon State Park.

Here are five hiking spots where we know the landscape, terrain and trees likely will deliver both fun hiking experiences and some awesome shots of colorful foliage:

Cloudland Canyon State Park. Fall colors don’t get easier or more plentiful than this. Just park at the canyon overlook lot, walk 100 yards and peer into a beautiful fall palette of green, yellow, orange and red on the opposite canyon wall. But wait, it gets even better if you take an easy walk along the overview trail for an ever-changing array of colorful foliage throughout the canyon along the one-mile round trip. But wait, there’s more! For the determined and fit, take those infamous Georgia State Park steps down on the waterfalls trail and capture great memories and photos at Cherokee Falls, Hemlock Falls, and into Sitton’s Gulch. Just remember as you walk along that you’ll have to climb up those steps to return. The combination of the canyon overlooks and foliage-framed waterfalls makes this our top spot for fall photos, and explains why it ranks nationally as one of Georgia’s best state parks.

For the adventuresome and more fit, hiking down those Georgia State Parks leads to great waterfall colors at Cloudland.

Red Top Mountain State Park. The Iron Hill trails twists and turns along the lakeshore, offering great lake views from secluded coves. Those still waters are great for reflection shots and some excellent panoramas, too. Where the trail ducks into the woods, we often capture unexpected ground level shots of colorful mushrooms and leaves matting the forest floor. We also enjoy the scenic mountainside and bridge views from near the beach and picnic shelter seven, located on a small peninsula. Or head up to the marina area to capture cross-lake shots of Pine Mountain and Vineyard Mountain, where the Allatoona Dam spans the 1,270 gap to create Lake Allatoona. You can’t beat Red Top Mountain for shots from the lake, so bring a kayak or rent a boat for some unique perspectives. Also, check out our story on the best dam views nearby.

The main photo at the top of the blog is from Red Top Mountain and Lake Allatoona. We also enjoy the spectacular colors along the trail routes.

Pine Log Creek. When you visit the small hidden quarry and see the trees reflecting from the surrounding mountainside, you’ll understand our recommendation. We’ve visited here on multiple occasions, and rarely have seen other people at the quarry or along the way. We also enjoy stops along the creek for shots up and down the waterway, where we can get overhanging trees reflecting into the shallow water.

Fall colored trees at abandoned quarry
Colorful foliage reflects beautifully in the still waters of the abandoned quarry at Pine Log Creek.

Amicalola Falls State Park. Just seeing the tallest falls in Georgia tumble more than 700 feet is worth the trip. Add the changing fall foliage, then consider the various vantage points, and it’s easy to understand why this ranks so highly. Taking the West Trail to the mid-falls bridge overlook always guarantees great shots. But we always start at the base, where anglers often surround a small pond which is great for reflections. And we never miss a stop at the lodge, where a walk out on the rear balcony offers a stunning panoramic overview of the large valley. You also can get valley shots from the top of the falls, though the field of view is a bit more limited. We did a short video of the falls in all four seasons.

We visit Amicalola Falls several times each year to capture the transitions in bright colors and subtle sunlight changes.

East Palisades. The parking lot and trails can be crowded. But you can’t beat the water-level elevations along the river for stunning fall shots. The water rushing through the large rocks offer excellent long-exposure opportunities. And we’ve never failed to see a few colorful mallard ducks.

In addition to changing leaves, we often spot colorful mallard ducks swimming in the river at the Palisades NRA near Atlanta.

And One More

Lula Falls Preserve. Yes, we promised five, but our Louisiana heritage requires us to provide some “lagniappe,” a little extra. Scenes around the falls are the most frequently-captured here. But we enjoy walking the Middle Trail, Bluff Trail and High Adventure trails first for some great photos. The downside: Lula Falls has limited opening days, and a reservation is required. You can get all the details at our blog.

Though we captured this shot in a spring visit, we can’t wait to return in the fall to recreate it with colorful foliage.

The Whole World Watched This Wallenda Walk

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The Whole World Watched This Wallenda Walk

Georgia’s Tallulah Gorge consistently ranks as one of the most visited, beautiful and rugged state parks in Georgia. The Northeast Georgia natural wonder also makes several lists as one of America’s best state parks.

And on July 18, 1970, Tallulah Gorge was in the world spotlight as famed tightrope aerialist and acrobat Karl Wallenda walked the half-mile wide, 1,000-foot deep chasm. He tiptoed, stumbled and even performed handstands on a specially designed 5/8-inch-thick steel cable anchored to towers that were constructed on both sides of the gorge. An estimated 30,000 people watched in person as Wallenda walked the high cable, while millions more people watched the stunt as it was broadcast live on television around the world.

If you visit Tallulah Gorge State Park today, you’ll find the rusting hulks of the Wallenda walk towers laying near the edge of the gorge. Signage at the site provides limited information about the stunt.

If you visit Tallulah Gorge, you’ll find the rusted hulks of the two towers which held the tightrope for the Wallenda walk. Information signs provide some details about the spectacular stunt.

The World Watched

Wallenda, the patriarch of the famous Flying Wallendas, was a household name at the time, having performed death-defying stunts around the world for decades. But the Tallulah Gorge Wallenda walk rated as his most daring yet.

Scheduled for 11:00 AM EST, weather delayed the start. The wind was blowing a bit stronger than expected, and the organizers wanted to make sure that the conditions were safe for Wallenda to walk.

At noon EST, the 65-year-old daredevil stepped onto the wire. The wind was blowing at 10-15 miles per hour, with gusts up to 20 miles per hour. That wind speed was a bit stronger than Wallenda had anticipated, and he had to adjust his balance accordingly.

Wallenda completed the Tallulah Gorge tightrope walk in 18 minutes. The most harrowing moment of the walk came when Wallenda lost his balance and began to sway. He managed to regain his footing, but the incident left the crowd on edge. After recovering his balance, Wallenda performed two headstands on the narrow, swinging steel cable while suspended 750 feet above the ground.

Despite higher-than-expected winds and a shaky stumble during the Wallenda walk, Karl Wallenda performed two handstands while on the cable above the gorge. (Associated Press Photo)

Darling, Are You There?

Wearing a microphone during the feat, Wallenda narrated and joked. Addressing his wife, Helen, who refused to attend in person, Wallenda asked, “Darling, are you there? I am coming.” He added, “It’s martini time. I’d better hurry.” Apparently, Wallenda had remarked the night before the event that he wanted a martini as soon as he finished the walk.

A cheering crowd greeted Wallenda as he reached the other side. The stunt was a major success, and it helped to cement Wallenda’s reputation as one of the greatest tightrope walkers of all time.

Did Wallenda actually stumble, or was it part of his act? There’s no record of his comments on the matter, but to those watching, the stumble looked convincing.

Amazingly, this famous Wallenda walk did not earn any money for Karl Wallenda walk, according to published reports. As a world-famous personality, he could have earned a large sum for the stunt. However, he performed the daring walk as a publicity stunt for the town of Tallulah Falls, Georgia. The town hoped that the stunt would attract tourists and boost the local economy, which, of course, it did.

Planning, Practice and Engineering

While the 18-minute walk captivated attendees and millions who watched on live television, the event required extensive planning, practice and special engineering.

Organizers designed and built two concrete and steel towers to hold the tightrope, and anchored them into the rocky cliffsides high above the plunging gorge. The stunt required a customized cable. Made of high-strength steel, the cable had to withstand the weight of Wallenda and the wind.

Manufactured by the American Steel and Wire Company, the cable weighed over 1,000 pounds. Once across the gorge, the cable was was stretched to a tension of 20,000 pounds. And while stable footing was essential to Wallenda, the cable was lubricated with a mixture of beeswax and tallow to prevent rusting during it’s time exposed to Georgia’s weather.

Wallenda practiced for days on a shorter cable before his July 18 walk. The spectacle was an engineering marvel as well as an incredible display of showmanship. (Georgia State Parks Photo)

For days prior, Wallenda rehearsed his walk in on a shorter cable in the Georgia summer weather conditions. On the day of the walk, he personally inspected the cable and monitored the weather conditions before starting the stunt.

International Media Coverage

The Tallulah Gorge walk was a major media event, with coverage in newspapers, magazines, and on television around the world. The New York Times ran a front-page story about the stunt, and ABC News broadcast it live.

There are several videos of Karl Wallenda’s tightrope walk over Tallulah Gorge available online. One of the most popular videos is a clip from ABC News that shows the entire stunt. The video has been viewed over 1 million times on YouTube. This one includes pre-walk footage and the full walk. Wallenda does his first headstand at approximately 44:45 in the video.

The coverage helped to make Wallenda a household name, and it inspired a new generation of daredevils. His great-grandson, Nik Wallenda, has continued the family tradition of tightrope walking, and he has performed some of the most daring stunts in history.

Karl Wallenda’s Career

Karl Wallenda was born in Germany in 1901. He began his career as a tightrope walker at the age of 14, and he quickly became one of the most acclaimed performers in the world. He performed all over the globe, recognized for his daring stunts and his showmanship.

Wallenda’s career was not without its setbacks and tragedy. Himself injured several times, he witnessed family members die and suffer severe injury while performing their family tightrope act. On January 30, 1962, at the Shrine Circus in Detroit, Michigan, the Flying Wallendas were performing their signature seven-person pyramid stunt. Something went wrong as the pyramid was nearing completion. Dieter Schepp, a Wallenda nephew, was on the top. He lost his balance and fell. The other six performers fell with him, and Schepp died instantly. Wallenda’s son Mario was paralyzed from the waist down.

The Flying Wallendas perform their seven-person pyramid stunt on the highwire in this undated photo.

The fall was a tragedy for the Wallenda family, and it had a profound impact on Karl Wallenda. Deeply shaken, he considered retiring from tightrope walking. However, he eventually decided to continue performing.

A Fatal Fall

Karl Wallenda’s career and life ended in a fatal fall on March 22, 1978, at the Condado Plaza Hotel in San Juan, Puerto Rico. He was attempting to walk a tightrope between two towers of the hotel when he lost his balance and fell to his death. Wallenda was 73 years old at the time of his death.

The fall was a shock to the world, and it was a major loss for the tightrope walking community. ABC News carried this report on the accident. Caution: it includes footage of the fall, and also includes video and sound from the Tallulah Gorge walk. Wallenda was considered one of the greatest tightrope walkers of all time, and his death was a reminder of the dangers of the sport.

Will A Wallenda Return to Tallulah?

As previously mentioned, Karl Wallenda’s great grandson, Nik Wallenda, still performs highwire stunts. Back in 2015, Nik planned to reenact Karl Wallenda’s feat at Tallulah Gorge. And, like the true show biz family member, he announced he would up the ante. Nik planned to use television graphics technology that would put his great grandfather on the tightrope simultaneously, and the two would complete the feat in sync. The technology had been used in the Winter Olympics, and similar editing allowed singers of different generations to “perform together” in videos.

But, the walk was cancelled a few months after the stunt was announced. Nik Wallenda stated that the TV technology wasn’t quite good enough, so he would postpone the stunt. In 2023, we’re still waiting for a reschedule.

Approximately the same age as Karl Wallenda when I first visited Tallulah Gorge, I held onto the rails while crossing the wide suspension bridge!
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